MRG MotorSports 818S Build

[Jeff Kleiner]

Awesome guys!

We've got the last fun event of the season at Walesboro on 11/2. Just saying... ;)

Jeff

[wallace18]

Super Job! Congrats!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Awesome guys!

We've got the last fun event of the season at Walesboro on 11/2. Just saying... ;)

Jeff

Hey Jeff, we always have a good time at Walesboro, great group of people.
We will try and make it. It might be our last chance to do any testing before winter shuts us down.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nothing special, I just thought this was a cool picture from yesterday's autocross.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34868&d=1413820653

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A couple of people have asked how many times we spun out.
One each in a total of 40 runs. It was pretty quick, once it started to go, I was not fast enough to catch it.


http://youtu.be/GM-tN_g2HIA

[svanlare]

Great test run, and glad that things are working so well on the shakedown. The ground shot is quite nice btw

[Doowop]

great video Bob!
is it me or it seems that the Kirkley seats are really tight in the 818. They even seem to be overlapping in the middle?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

great video Bob!
is it me or it seems that the Kirkley seats are really tight in the 818. They even seem to be overlapping in the middle?
We are using the KIR-47900 Seat, Aluminum, Intermediate Road Race, 15 Degree Layback, 18 in. Hip Width, Each

They have 3 widths. This is the largest. Michael and I are both 250+
Yes the touch and hang over the frame on the outside.
No problem making them work.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is our November Hot List now that GO KART Testing is complete.
Our nest big goal is to get it registered.

Install Emergency brake
Clean up dash wiring
Wire Horns, Temp & brake fluid sensor
Mount rear Fire wall and cockpit aluminum panels
modify seat & Mount seats
Install side shift transmission
adjust ride height with passengers
Mount body
Wire lights
GET CAR REGISTERED
remove engine
New Engine mounts
Fix water pump Add oil cooler
add accusump
add awic
Change Oil Pan
install Engine

Looking at this list I have one question that come to mind. I looking for a fastener to mount the body to the under side of the frame. I will put 1/4-20 rivnuts in the frame. I want screws and washers that are not very thick. They also must be able to be removed easily after scraping the ground. What are others using?
Bob

[rangerbay]

Went to bigger rear brake. Using front calipers on all four wheels. H6 rotor, drilling and grinding to mount the bracket. Brake pad modification also. I maintained the parking Brake. Sorry Rasmus this one is heavier.

Does anyone want to trade me for some matching red shocks?
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34625&d=1413254913

Try saying that "matching red shocks" 3 times real fast!

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I'm using ss button head with washer 10-24s and riv nuts to hold the body on. I use them on my kart and they get beat up too. You can always drill the head out if they get too beat up and then spin the threaded portion out or drill out and replace the riv nut. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=udi2d5

[thall818]

Bob, check these out as a possible solution.

Heads are only .11" on these - http://www.mcmaster.com/#90015a410/=udp4ct

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks
Dan and thall818
I can't decide, I have already scrapped the bottom of the car 4 or 5 time in go kart mode.
I am thinking about an 1/8" x 3/4" alum. wear strip on the bottom of the car with counter sunk hole in it for some flat head screws.
What do you think of that idea?
Bob

[Jaime]

These (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400217140329?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) are 0.090.

Technical detail here (http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Button_Flange_Socket_Head_10_32_Screw_Stainless_p/56000.htm).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A little of topic, But the movie comes out next week. Some from our company went to the premier in Hollywood.
Our bike was parked on Anthony Hopkins star. He was the star of the movie "The World's Fastest Indian"
We were very happy with the amount of screen time we got.


http://youtu.be/4zZDVADaCNs

[RM1SepEx]

Bob what is your ride height? I have the CF rocker extensions, they will drag first... :(

[Boog]

Could you use these and have the entire head of of a low profile button head screw sitting below the surface?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#92856a101/=udsjhn

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob what is your ride height? I have the CF rocker extensions, they will drag first... :(

Hi Dan
I started at 4.5" but the car has settled to Just below 4". I have the CF rockers also.
It is going to be tough to keep them nice.
Bob

[Frank818]

Bob, at under 4" could be tough to keep the front splitter nice too. :)

[RM1SepEx]

I live in Maine, I'm going to crank it up to 5 inches...

[MrDude_1]

I live in Maine, I'm going to crank it up to 5 inches...

Winter is almost here... I say you crank down the front to a half inch and offer a splitter plowing service.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Winter is almost here... I say you crank down the front to a half inch and offer a splitter plowing service.

I'm Ready for winter,

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35265&d=1414770152

[RM1SepEx]

juggling motorcycles and Miatas all morning, plow is on truck but blower isn't on the old JD318

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Awesome guys!

We've got the last fun event of the season at Walesboro on 11/2. Just saying... ;)

Jeff

Hey Jeff,
See you tomorrow,
Still going to be in go kart mode with 4 205 federal tires. (loose)
Last autocross, I was unable to get any heat in them.
Any other FFR cars going to be there?
Bob & Mike

[Bob_n_Cincy]

With the engine at fast idle and the back wheels in the air, I let the clutch out quickly. You can see how much movement I got.


http://youtu.be/rplbfdtXaj8

[C.Plavan]

With the engine at fast idle and the back wheels in the air, I let the clutch out quickly. You can see how much movement I got.


http://youtu.be/rplbfdtXaj8

Jeez- What mounts?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Chad
That is an 10 year old OEM transmission mount.

Here is the same video in 4x slow motion. You can really see the transmission pounding on the frame.


http://youtu.be/xACmwALj8ig

[RM1SepEx]

The original FFR videos showed tons of movement all over withstovk mounts and no upper trans strut... It's amazing how much it moves

Old and soft stock ones are useless. I went Cusco https://www.google.com/search?q=cusco+subaru+motor+mounts&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&imgil=EFl7u5ukyzg6fM%253A%253BlCzuQE7Iz8b6YM%253Bh ttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.rallysportdirect.com%2 5252FCusco-660-911-SET-Engine-Transmission-Mount&source=iu&pf=m&fir=EFl7u5ukyzg6fM%253A%252ClCzuQE7Iz8b6YM%252C_&usg=__1L-s2LVDBHvkpSWS_ofPWsKhuoY%3D&ved=0CFEQyjc&ei=FZdVVJeNL_jIsAT52oDICg#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=EFl7u5ukyzg6fM%253A%3BlCzuQE7Iz8b6YM%3Bhttp% 253A%252F%252Fwww.rallysportdirect.com%252Fcatalog _photos%252Fproducts%252Fcusco%252Fcus_660_911_set _1_lg.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.rallysportdirec t.com%252FCusco-660-911-SET-Engine-Transmission-Mount%3B900%3B600

[Mechie3]

Stock motor and transmission?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Stock motor and transmission?
Engine out of 04 FXT
Trans out of a 06 NA impreza
All stock mounts

Now I know why Subaru has a pitch stop.
It seems to me that the group N or the Cusco are both pricey for what you get.

Hey craig, I'll be auto crossing it at Walesboro today, how close are you.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Couldn't agree more re pricing... :( but I get tired of custom fab, what is our time really worth? Between my alternate IC location and the exhaust movement concerns I had to bite the bullet.

[Mechie3]

Bob, I'm about 1 hour 8 minutes according to google. Let me know if you're coming up. I'm making a few parts at the shop today.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Had another great day autocrossing the go kart
This is Mikes last run. About 55 seconds. Yes, he did beat dad.
Today we ran 205 595r federals in front and 225 888 Toyo's in the rear.
I spun out twice and Michael once. More importantly our natural instinct was to lift if the back end kick out. By the end of the day we were both staying in the gas and drifting/ counter steering out of the slide.

The video doesn't give you a real feel for the speed. about 5 seconds after the start mike was at 60 mph before taking the first left.
I love this car.
In the video watch the engine movement. I need to fix this.
I have no sway bar. You can watch the front suspension to see the body roll. I don't know if this need attention. Pleas give me you opinion.
Jeff Kleiner and gang put on great events.
Bob

http://youtu.be/9cPHXm8AXkc

[Frank818]

This video tells us all why we are building this car: fun.

Yeah your engine moves a lot. Is the transmission moving that much too?

I noticed your big braided line tie-wrapped on the frame. Wouldn't after a while the line moving a little scratch the blue powder coat?

[Mechie3]

More importantly our natural instinct was to lift if the back end kick out. By the end of the day we were both staying in the gas and drifting/ counter steering out of the slide.


That's how my F500 is. It's a 72" wheelbase so it can spin out if you simply think about it. Once you learn to keep your foot in it becomes second nature. Cool to see some 818's autocrossing so close.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This video tells us all why we are building this car: fun.
Yeah your engine moves a lot. Is the transmission moving that much too?
I noticed your big braided line tie-wrapped on the frame. Wouldn't after a while the line moving a little scratch the blue powder coat?

Hey Frank
I used scratch proof powder coat.
Yes the transmission is moving all over the place. I hit a bump and it smacks the frame. (see powder coat remark above)

Right now I have ZERO pop rivets in the car. It is held together by a couple hundred zip ties.
Zip ties make is very easy to change. Once everything is where I want it. I will go back an change about 1/2 of the zip ties to "P" clips (fastened by screws).

Funny this happened today. I kept hearing this squeaking noise. But Michael could not hear it.
After a couple of runs with this noise, I discovered it was my helmet rubbing on the rubber Kirkey emblem on the seat.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

In the video in post 284 above. While sitting on the start line, I can hear a tick in the engine. Is that anything to worry about? (the motor has 93K on it)
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

... low polar moment of inertia... :o it is addictive, only thing I love to autocross (besides the kart)

the fun factor of mid engine is intoxicating. You will learn so much about driving and how to use the car as a tool to "dance" that edge of control, mid engine, lower polar moment of inertia, faster to change directions. This can be good and bad! :rolleyes: hmm kinda like the shifter kart!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking good Bob & Michael :) Sorry I missed you guys but we'll be back at it again in February---rain, snow or sunshine!

Jeff

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looking good Bob & Michael :) Sorry I missed you guys but we'll be back at it again in February---rain, snow or sunshine!
Jeff

You need to have autocrosses year round.
Michael wants to go rally crossing now because autox is done for the year. He want to use the impreza he uses for high school transportation.
uhggggggggg
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

To much fun
35397 35398 35399 35400 35401 35402 35403 35404

[tmoretta]

Watching the video - Do you have broken or non-existent motor mounts? I have never seen an engine pitch around so much. And - the pitching is fore and aft, not side to side. Normally engine torque will pitch the motor side to side. What's up? Do we all need to add additional "pitch stop", or other engine movement limiters to our engine/trans. package in the 818?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Watching the video - Do you have broken or non-existent motor mounts? I have never seen an engine pitch around so much. And - the pitching is fore and aft, not side to side. Normally engine torque will pitch the motor side to side. What's up? Do we all need to add additional "pitch stop", or other engine movement limiters to our engine/trans. package in the 818?

Hi Tmoretta
The engine and transmission mounts are not broken (yet). There is no pitch stop.
The mounts are oem and are 10 years old 93k.

You get side to side motion on a front engine with rear wheel drive as it is the reaction force of twisting the drive shaft. This style car has only 1 / 4 the torque going to the axle because of rear dif ratio.

On a transaxle you get forward reverse pitch as the reaction of the half shafts going to the 818 rear wheels. Full axle torque in first gear 13.5 x 225ft/lbs at crank is 3037 ft/lbs of torque twisting the motor assembly. On the 4wd wrx half of the torque goes to the back wheels. So only 1/2 much pitch on the motor.



Options:
-harder durometer engine and trans mounts. (expensive)
-dog bone pitch stop from air conditioner compressor bracket to the fire wall.
-custom trans and/or motor mount and/or pitch stop.

Fixing this is pretty high on my list, so I should have something in the next 3-4 weeks.
Bob

PS: I'm worried about the guys with bigger turbos hitting the shock tower brace.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Spin Wednesday
I don't know if anyone has published a video of an 818 spinning out yet.

In this video Michael has a nice save at the 7 second mark, then another at the 9 second mark.
At the 12 second mark the back end kicked out to fast to save.

For all you auto crossers, think more rear grip.


http://youtu.be/sZ7PRMYRqRw

[MrDude_1]

Options:
-harder durometer engine and trans mounts. (expensive)
-dog bone pitch stop from air conditioner compressor bracket to the fire wall.
-custom trans and/or motor mount and/or pitch stop.

Fixing this is pretty high on my list, so I should have something in the next 3-4 weeks.
Bob

PS: I'm worried about the guys with bigger turbos hitting the shock tower brace.

Well, if you want the harder captured mounts like the expensive ones, but are willing to make some custom ones, the Perrin style engine mounts use an energy suspension GM transmission mount. You just need to make plate to hold it in place.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Well, if you want the harder captured mounts like the expensive ones, but are willing to make some custom ones, the Perrin style engine mounts use an energy suspension GM transmission mount. You just need to make plate to hold it in place.

I have 4 cheap ($6) version of the GM trans mount on order to experiment with.

[Frank818]

For all you auto crossers, think more rear grip.

For all you 818 drivers, think more grip, I guess. :)

It seemed to have spin VERY easily at the 12sec mark, as soon as it started, it moved on without never coming back an inch.

[Mechie3]

Well, if you want the harder captured mounts like the expensive ones, but are willing to make some custom ones, the Perrin style engine mounts use an energy suspension GM transmission mount. You just need to make plate to hold it in place.

Interesting...... :D


Columbus (where the video was) has a bit of a rough surface as well. I once spun out my Fmod and went about 20 feet into a freshly plowed corn field. I'd like to see how well they do on a good surface like Grissom.

[Tamra]

Which springs are you running front/rear, and are you running a front sway (and what size)?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Which springs are you running front/rear, and are you running a front sway (and what size)?
Hi Tamra,
We are stock 818 Street. 350# front 275# rear. We are not running a sway bar at this point.
-2.5* camber all wheels, 2.5* front caster. 0 toe front and rear.
205/40-16 Federals in front, 225/45-16 Toyo R888 in the rear.
We are getting ZERO push in the front and not getting any heat in the front tires.
The rear is pretty loose and tires only 15*F over ambient(guess) with 1 minutes runs every 5 minutes.
If you have any ideas about this, let me know.
Bob

[Tamra]

Hi Tamra,
We are stock 818 Street. 350# front 275# rear. We are not running a sway bar at this point.
-2.5* camber all wheels, 2.5* front caster. 0 toe front and rear.
205/40-16 Federals in front, 225/45-16 Toyo R888 in the rear.
We are getting ZERO push in the front and not getting any heat in the front tires.
The rear is pretty loose and tires only 15*F over ambient(guess) with 1 minutes runs every 5 minutes.
If you have any ideas about this, let me know.
Bob

Bob, our thoughts:

The lighter rear springs should help rear grip at the expense of some squat on acceleration.
No front sway would encourage oversteer relative to adding a front bar.
Camber and castor are probably fine but you would only really know by using a pyrometer (probe kind).
Tires, we run matched sets always but at least yours are similar tread wear. More tire is usually better, but if you're not getting any heat in the tires then of course they will slip easier. I'm guessing you'll find that to be different in the summer temperatures.

The general autocross setup is for a car to push if you enter a corner too hot, and oversteer is only induced by power or trail braking. Of course, the degree of each is dependent on personal preference.

We will be running 500lb fronts, 300 rears (we are worried this will be too soft in the rear, but only time will tell) with a front sway, size TBD.

Just our thoughts though, as we are by no means professionals!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, our thoughts:

The lighter rear springs should help rear grip at the expense of some squat on acceleration.
No front sway would encourage oversteer relative to adding a front bar.
Camber and castor are probably fine but you would only really know by using a pyrometer (probe kind).
Tires, we run matched sets always but at least yours are similar tread wear. More tire is usually better, but if you're not getting any heat in the tires then of course they will slip easier. I'm guessing you'll find that to be different in the summer temperatures.

The general autocross setup is for a car to push if you enter a corner too hot, and oversteer is only induced by power or trail braking. Of course, the degree of each is dependent on personal preference.

We will be running 500lb fronts, 300 rears (we are worried this will be too soft in the rear, but only time will tell) with a front sway, size TBD.

Just our thoughts though, as we are by no means professionals!

Hi Tamra
Thanks for your thoughts.
I would love to go out to a circle pad and try to tune front and rear grip.
I'm worried about oil starvation so I'm going to wait for my accusump first.

I'm not going to change anything until I get wider tires in the back.

We are going to start working on the body with the autocross season over.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Couldn't sleep, so I thought I would post a "SMOKING TIRE" picture.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35753&d=1416042565

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael And I were over at the barn today looking at the car figuring out what we wanted to accomplish before the last autocross of the season NOV 30th.
We pulled the rear wheels of to look at a brake modification we are planning.

Then we noticed tire rub marks on the lower trailing arms. we are running 1/4" to 3/8" of clearance.
I don't know when it is happening, but both rear tires are definitely rubbing the lower trailing arm. I suspect during heavy acceleration or braking the back wheels are going toe in.

Between rear suspension, shock travel, engine movement, braking performance.
I'm going to need about 6 go pros on this car at the next autocross.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

Just space em out playa!! Nice smoke

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm in the process of finding parts for my AWIC system.
I'm thinking of running a non-pressurized system.
Can anybody give me a good reason to run a pressurized system?
Bob

[STiPWRD]

Bob, are you referring to a vent in your water reservoir as opposed to a closed water coolant loop? I can't see any reason why either way wouldn't work, just have to be mindful of contaminants and evaporation with a vented system.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, are you referring to a vent in your water reservoir as opposed to a closed water coolant loop? I can't see any reason why either way wouldn't work, just have to be mindful of contaminants and evaporation with a vented system.
Hi Stiwrd
I would have a closed loop system. I just would have a vented cap on it. I was thinking of a bottle like this on up high in the system.
35831

[Mechie3]

My F500 has something similar, though it is pressurized. Water comes off the head and into a swirl pot at 90 deg to the vertical axis of the pot and then leaves through the bottom. It allows air to settle at the top of the pot. The only thing you would need to do is make sure wherever you place your pump you don't have enough differential in your inlet and outlet flows to empty the reservoir faster than it refills. In a closed system inlet = outlet (or you start pulling a vacuum and collapsing hoses). In an open one it just pulls air to fill the vacuum if you pull too much.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My F500 has something similar, though it is pressurized. Water comes off the head and into a swirl pot at 90 deg to the vertical axis of the pot and then leaves through the bottom. It allows air to settle at the top of the pot. The only thing you would need to do is make sure wherever you place your pump you don't have enough differential in your inlet and outlet flows to empty the reservoir faster than it refills. In a closed system inlet = outlet (or you start pulling a vacuum and collapsing hoses). In an open one it just pulls air to fill the vacuum if you pull too much.

I will have my tank in one of the humps. With it up high it cannot over flow or run out.
(unless I get boiling) Then I got bigger problems.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Today we installed new motor and transmision mount. We used mounts that are 70A durometer rating. (not as hard as a hockey puck) About the hardness of tire tread. The original motor mounts I would compare to the pink rubber pencil erasers we used as kids.

We were able to change the mount without removing the engine from the car. Removed the shock cross bar and hoisted the motor about 2" was enough to change the mounts.

Initial test show we went from +/- 3/4" of engine movement to maybe +/- 1/8"
We still have an option to add a dogbone from the compressor bracket to the rear firewall.
That mod is on hold until on road testing.
Bob

[Tamra]

That would be a great improvement. Hopefully the road testing shows the same!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am a beta tester for Mechie3 installing a AWIC kit into my 818.

The first thing I had to do is Clock my turbo.
This is the original position of the turbo. As you can see compressor is horizontal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36342&d=1418017413

After removing the turbo and clocked the compressor about 60 degrees clockwise, this is what it look like.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36343&d=1418017790

Craig is sending me a bracket to hold the waste gate actuator in this position.

Next was to mock up the AWIC mounting, using Craig's brackets.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36344&d=1418018219

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36345&d=1418019193


We are going to change the short piece of pipe to a 45 deg bend to improve the fit.

I believe this to be the cleanest AWIC instillation.
I should have this fully installed in a couple of days, after a couple of parts come in.
I will post some final pictures.
Bob & Mike

[Frank818]

Oh so you're the one tester. :)

Any pictures of the final HE installation?

[Mechie3]

Bob is doing a different HE. I have three other people doing the HE installation though. :) 2 people are testing complete non-clocked systems, another person is testing just the rear AWIC mount installation and the front HE.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Craig
Which holes did you intend your bracket to go to on the transmission? It looks like it will fit in either.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36360&d=1418076548

[Mechie3]

Third from the motor. It's the one in front of the bracket.

[Frank818]

Bob, did you fit a stopper in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, did you fit a stopper in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells?.

Hi Frank,
no limiters for me.
With the snap oversteer of this car, I want the most steering angle I can get.
now I just need faster hands.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I saw this video, It's has given me some Ideas for my 818.
I like the way the rear hatch open.
I like the hood fuel doors.
Check it out and let me know your thoughts.


https://youtu.be/iE43PS0g2ZY

[flynntuna]

Very cool, thanks for posting.the look from the rear is the look I'd like to have.

[Frank818]

Rear hatch open is great, except our the bumper does not open.

1700lbs and 680hp. Well guys I guess we bought the wrong car, eh? loll
The sound of that small 1.8L is quite interesting! I bet it's even better in person.

[STiPWRD]

Cool video, you can tell some serious coin has been spent on this thing. Overall it looks and sounds great.

[Frank818]

Just watched it again. Excellent video. You already post excellent vids, Bob.

I am thinking of opening the bottom rear bumper the same way. Nice look.

So that's how it looks like driving in LA? Where do I live again? Damn. :)

[Mechie3]

Very cool! I've actually spent considerable time looking up rear lights. I came up with Exige ($$$$) or some Hellas ($$$). Exige are easy to get, but expensive, the Hellas are hard to get but cheaper. I like the exhaust location, not sold on the shape.

http://cliff.hostkansas.com/images/2011b/Hella5.jpg

[Frank818]

What? You will offer those rear lights? I've always wanted something like the GTM in LED format. Or those above!
Tell us more! :)

Only problem is the 818 has its lights in an angled line, the middle ones are higher and smaller than the ones on the outside.

[Mechie3]

Its not my photo. It would require redoing the bumper area, maybe with a replaceable light mount section. One of vraptor works gtms has those led lights.

[FFR-ADV]

Very cool! I've actually spent considerable time looking up rear lights. I came up with Exige ($$$$) or some Hellas ($$$). Exige are easy to get, but expensive, the Hellas are hard to get but cheaper. I like the exhaust location, not sold on the shape.

http://cliff.hostkansas.com/images/2011b/Hella5.jpg

Are those Hellas a drop in upgrade / replacement for the FFR rear lights? I imagine that would look great with the new hardtop (once we get to see it).

The AWIC kits are looking great!

Have a nice vacation Craig!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Craig's intercooler system installed.

60 degree turbo compressor clocking bracket
36673

36674

36675

Turbo and front intercooler bracket installed
36676

36677

36678


Piping and intercooler installed.
36679

I added the port on the driver side of the awic to automatically bleed air to a small reservoir in the hump.
36680

36681
I added an 1/8 NPT port for AIT sensor
36682

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A couple more pictures

I used the stock blow off valve mounted to the awic
36689

36690

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Has anybody used an Accusump yet?
Where is the suggest connection port for the Accusump?
What is the consensus on the Subaru forums about using an Accusump?
Bob

[Hindsight]

Everything I have read is good. The only limitation is that they are a backup type device and will only provide pressure for seconds. In a road race course with a lot of high speed sweepers, it might not be enough.

What IAT did you find in1/8"? All the ones I found were 3/8 which is huge.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Everything I have read is good. The only limitation is that they are a backup type device and will only provide pressure for seconds. In a road race course with a lot of high speed sweepers, it might not be enough.
What IAT did you find in1/8"? All the ones I found were 3/8 which is huge.

The accusump will give me about twice the reserve oil than I have now. With a couple extra qts of oil in the engine, it hard to imagine the pan going dry.

The drysump system cost more than my 90k engine at this point. I'm going to run 230hp in 2015, then maybe bump up to 300 with a new turbo in 2016. I will be datalogging full time, so if I see an oil problem at autocross or track days. I will have to rethink my decisions.

A silly coarse designer put a 540 degree turn in an autox coarse this past summer. My impreza was having fuel starvation problems every time through.


Sponaugle suggested a thermal couple, part# TC-K-18NPT-E-72

http://www.omega.com/googlebase/product.html?pn=TC-K-NPT-E-72&gclid=Cj0KEQjwiJiiBRDh3Z-ctPfS5MgBEiQAAlkbQgue_YMuFt6Y5w9tSR8Wz0insw1npkKeo d3QnvENW6QaAkIS8P8HAQ

You also need this little circuit board to convert thermal couple voltage

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1778

Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

To all the Patriots fans, your welcome.
36737

[RM1SepEx]

To all the Patriots fans, your welcome.
36737

Thanks! :rolleyes:

[flynntuna]

It's a good game when a Manning loses;)
But... It's San Diego's year. :rolleyes:

[jayguy]

Nope, Seahawks for the repeat! :)

[07FIREBLADE]

That's not gonna happen Seahawks are going down...

[Frank818]

And the fight begins. :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Happy New Year.
I'm working on my side shift transmission.
Can anybody give me some advice on drilling and taping the shifting shaft that comes out of the back of the transmission.
I tried today and found the metal to be very hard.
Thanks
Bob

[Quiny]

Are you doing it with it mounted in the transmission? I did mine with it removed. I cut then drilled the spring-pin hole using a v-block with a vice on a drill press. The shaft didn't appear to be hardened and drilled pretty easy. I gained about 3/4" of clearance, the shaft would have hit the rear fiberglass if I didn't shorten it. I didn't need to but it helps to file a small flat spot to get the bit started.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Are you doing it with it mounted in the transmission? I did mine with it removed. I cut then drilled the spring-pin hole using a v-block with a vice on a drill press. The shaft didn't appear to be hardened and drilled pretty easy. I gained about 3/4" of clearance, the shaft would have hit the rear fiberglass if I didn't shorten it. I didn't need to but it helps to file a small flat spot to get the bit started.
Hi quiny
I'm drilling and tapping right into the tee.
Bob

37062

[Mechie3]

The tee could possible be hardened. Hardened metals will dull steel bits almost instantly. You'd need to use carbide. Tapping could prove difficult as well.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The tee could possible be hardened. Hardened metals will dull steel bits almost instantly. You'd need to use carbide. Tapping could prove difficult as well.
I experienced "dull steel bits almost instantly" today.
I can go with a tougher drill bit. Any suggestions for a tap. (3/8-24)
Bob

[Tamra]

We picked up a Drill Doctor (drill bit sharpener) that has helped us a lot. Drilling and riveting all the panels puts some wear the drill bits pretty fast. We are going to be tackling the same task as you soon too.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm about to reassembly my transmission.
What is the consensus on the best fluids for the MT5 transmission?
Thanks
Bob

[Harley818]

Hi Bob,

I found this on the Impreza forum....... I'll be using Uncle Scotty's Cocktail.

The Subaru 5MT can be a picky about what fluid you should use. Popular fluids that have a large fan base are:

a. OEM fluid AKA Subaru Extra-S
b. Uncle Scotty's Cocktail of 1qt Redline lightweight shockproof, 1qt Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh, 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90
c. Redline lightweight shockproof
d. Motul 300

[metalmaker12]

I'm about to reassembly my transmission.
What is the consensus on the best fluids for the MT5 transmission?
Thanks
Bob

Motul is all I use. The LSD gear oil works really well if you have an LSD. It is race proven to be the very best one available.

[STiPWRD]

I use 3 quarts of redline lightweight shockproof and top it off with Motul 300. Shifting is like butter.

[Tamra]

Uncle Scotty's cocktail specifically calls for the Redline HEAVYWEIGHT shockproof, not the lightweight.

Here's the full instructions for those interested:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674

We are doing the cocktail for now. Seems like there are a lot of mixed reviews about what is best, but people seem pretty happy with either option for the 5spd transmissions. For simplicity sake, we'll likely switch to the Subaru Extra S next.

[C.Plavan]

I use Swepco 201. It's more than race proven. It's ChadProof. Works great in the Subi, I have been using it for decades in the Porsches (Race and Street).

No need for Extra S, that was made for the STI 6 Speed for the triple ring syncro because guys were having problems shifting. It didn't come out until 2006.

End of the day, it's a gear driven diff. Diff doesn't care what you use as long as it offers good protection to the gear faces. Use what you like the shifting on and just change it every 4-6 race weekends.

[Ellimist]

Hi Bob,

I found this on the Impreza forum....... I'll be using Uncle Scotty's Cocktail.

The Subaru 5MT can be a picky about what fluid you should use. Popular fluids that have a large fan base are:

a. OEM fluid AKA Subaru Extra-S
b. Uncle Scotty's Cocktail of 1qt Redline lightweight shockproof, 1qt Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh, 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90
c. Redline lightweight shockproof
d. Motul 300

Looking at it from a price perspective (below), looks like d's the most expensive - that means it's best right? :cool:. All are based on 4qt for 1-to-1 comparison, but granted this was based on quick google searches and better deals may exist....
a.4qt of Subaru Extra-S @ $13.75/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-75W90-Extra-S-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B007L6Q1EK) = $55
b. Total = $48.92 (w/ Pennzoil) to $52.30 (w/ GM)
1qt Redline HEAVYWEIGHT shockproof @ $17.95/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58204-ShockProof-Oil/dp/B000CPI5XW) = $17.95
1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh @ $12.99/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Synchromesh-Manual-Transmission-Fluid-quart/dp/B0002KL098) = $12.99
or 1qt GM Synchromesh @ $16.37/qt (http://www.amazon.com/88900399-Synchromesh-Friction-Modified-Transmission/dp/B00BK7M2VW) = $16.37
2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90 @ $8.99/qt (http://www.grimmspeed.com/castrol-hypoy-c-gear-oil-80w90-quart/) = $17.98
c. 4qt Redline lightweight shockproof @ $17.95/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58404-Lightweight-Oil/dp/B000CPI5YG) = $71.80
d. 4L Motul 300 @ $22.99/L (http://www.amazon.com/Motul-Gear-300-Gearbox-Oil/dp/B005UGKJCS) = $91.96


The LSD gear oil works really well if you have an LSD. It is race proven to be the very best one available.
Metal, which LSD gear oil are you referring to? Sorry, I'm a newb.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions on the Transmission gear oil.
The Engineer in me says to stay away form the cocktail.
Sounds to much like mixing green and orange antifreeze and getting ugly brown.

Thanks Again
Bob

[Mechie3]

There was a writeup on Scotty's cocktail once. Don't remember all of it but it summarized that it wasn't good to mix fluids and that there was a single element of it (motul?) that was mostly responsible for it working as well as it did.

[metalmaker12]

Looking at it from a price perspective (below), looks like d's the most expensive - that means it's best right? :cool:. All are based on 4qt for 1-to-1 comparison, but granted this was based on quick google searches and better deals may exist....
a.4qt of Subaru Extra-S @ $13.75/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-75W90-Extra-S-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B007L6Q1EK) = $55
b. Total = $48.92 (w/ Pennzoil) to $52.30 (w/ GM)
1qt Redline HEAVYWEIGHT shockproof @ $17.95/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58204-ShockProof-Oil/dp/B000CPI5XW) = $17.95
1qt Pennzoil Synchromesh @ $12.99/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Synchromesh-Manual-Transmission-Fluid-quart/dp/B0002KL098) = $12.99
or 1qt GM Synchromesh @ $16.37/qt (http://www.amazon.com/88900399-Synchromesh-Friction-Modified-Transmission/dp/B00BK7M2VW) = $16.37
2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90 @ $8.99/qt (http://www.grimmspeed.com/castrol-hypoy-c-gear-oil-80w90-quart/) = $17.98
c. 4qt Redline lightweight shockproof @ $17.95/qt (http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-58404-Lightweight-Oil/dp/B000CPI5YG) = $71.80
d. 4L Motul 300 @ $22.99/L (http://www.amazon.com/Motul-Gear-300-Gearbox-Oil/dp/B005UGKJCS) = $91.96


Metal, which LSD gear oil are you referring to? Sorry, I'm a newb.

Motul gear box 80w90 MoS2 reinforced 37359.
I have tried pretty much them all, and there all not motul. Plavens is good stuff also.

Also the Leno video is cool, that car is, but I like the look of the 818 more and when we put a different mil in this thing, (which I will do) than 680 will be available.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike and I got some time in today mocking up our side shift transmission. As some might know, we plan to put our radiator against the rear bumper. To accomplish this, we need to get rid of the shaft and some of the transmission housing to make room.
We added a shaft to the existing shifting arm with a direct link for the forward reverse cable.For the rotate function we connected the cable through a bellcrank.

Looks like it's going to work.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37387&d=1420673874

[FFRSpec72]

Looking at it from a price perspective (below), looks like d's the most expensive - that means it's best right? :cool:. All are based on 4qt for 1-to-1 comparison, but granted this was based on quick google searches and better deals may exist....
d. 4L Motul 300 @ $22.99/L (http://www.amazon.com/Motul-Gear-300-Gearbox-Oil/dp/B005UGKJCS) = $91.96


4L of Motul 300 can be had for about $60 shipped from Autoplicity

[Mechie3]

Bob, Any ideas yet as to how to seal the transmission?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, Any ideas yet as to how to seal the transmission?
I'm looking for some kind of boot/bellow.
I can have a custom one made. I would rather find something I mcgyver to fit.

Hole is 1"x2 with 1/2" shaft.
Need something like this:37388

[Hindsight]

Looks like a clutch release arm boot.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks like a clutch release arm boot.
Hindsight
Thanks for the suggestion. I found a bunch of possible boots.
This one is out of a 57 chevy, It's got to be fast.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37393&d=1420688397

here is a close up of the hole

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37394&d=1420688769

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We had a visit from our favorite part designer / supplier today.
He fits in our car pretty well.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37478&d=1420941790

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37479&d=1420941793

If you didn't recognize him, This is Craig, also know as Mechie3.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Just a word of warning about the tail light LED bulb.
This is a three terminal LED bulb used for the reverse (white) and turn signal (yellow).
The bulb works great.
Be careful connecting it up. If you get the polarity backwards, it blows the circuit in the bulb.
This is a stupid bulb design. Adding a 2 cent polarity protection diode is so simple.
I could not believe it didn't have it.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

Just a word of warning about the tail light LED bulb.
This is a three terminal LED bulb used for the reverse (white) and turn signal (yellow).
The bulb works great.
Be careful connecting it up. If you get the polarity backwards, it blows the circuit in the bulb.
This is a stupid bulb design. Adding a 2 cent polarity protection diode is so simple.
I could not believe it didn't have it.
Bob

Been there blew that lol. It is a stupid design.

[metalmaker12]

We had a visit from our favorite part designer / supplier today.
He fits in our car pretty well.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37478&d=1420941790

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37479&d=1420941793

If you didn't recognize him, This is Craig, also know as Mechie3.

Craig since when is your car that complete or have a blue frame. Lol

Cool you guys met up.

[Frank818]

Just a word of warning about the tail light LED bulb.
This is a three terminal LED bulb used for the reverse (white) and turn signal (yellow).
The bulb works great.
Be careful connecting it up. If you get the polarity backwards, it blows the circuit in the bulb.
This is a stupid bulb design. Adding a 2 cent polarity protection diode is so simple.
I could not believe it didn't have it.
Bob

Good to know!

How can you go wrong on the polarity? It's not obvious enough where the wires connect?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Good to know!

How can you go wrong on the polarity? It's not obvious enough where the wires connect?
Not obvious to me.

[Mechie3]

:)

We were in town seeing a cornea specialist for the baby and decided to drop in on Bob. I like his seating arrangement. I'd probably move the wheel a little closer to me, but I tend to like a close up wheel. I liked having my legs stretched out and having my head under the rollbar.

If the polarity isn't obvious to the electrical engineer I'm afraid I'm sunk.

[svanlare]

I'm just starting on a schematic for my car and haven't made it to the taillights yet. Which pin is the ground?

Pulled it out of the box tonight and figured it out. It is a standard bulb receptacle with a center common pin and the outside pins turning on the lights. I agree, really bad design not to have a diode.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike and I had time to work on our side shift transmission modification.
The reason for the side shifter is 2 fold.
With the side shifter, the shaft sticking out the back and some of the housing can be removed.
#1. For racers, allows for protective steel behind the trans and without the shaft it is less susceptible to damage from bump drafters.
#2. Opens up the space for my rear radiator.

Let me know if you have questions.
Bob


http://youtu.be/NLPjJnvYMAM

[Tamra]

Wow that looks like a great solution!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow that looks like a great solution!
Hi Tamra,
as soon as I get my shorter cables, I'll video the backlash.
FFR cables are 175" I'm going ~1/2 the length to 84" with 180* of less turns.
Bob

[Hendow]

Not obvious to me.

Oh so glad to hear it is not particularly obvious to a few more than just me!

I like the idea of the two in one bulb, but I managed to create 'magic smoke' with both of my bulbs, and have been unable to source any replacements...

Had to resort to standard wedge style filament bulb and a separate LED reverse light in the meantime.

37759

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Oh so glad to hear it is not particularly obvious to a few more than just me!

I like the idea of the two in one bulb, but I managed to create 'magic smoke' with both of my bulbs, and have been unable to source any replacements...

Had to resort to standard wedge style filament bulb and a separate LED reverse light in the meantime.

37759

Hi Hendow,
here is a link for bulbs.

http://www.amazon.com/IG-Tuning-60-SMD-Switchback-Parking/dp/B00C3MVK6G

Bob

[Hendow]

Hi Hendow,
here is a link for bulbs.

http://www.amazon.com/IG-Tuning-60-SMD-Switchback-Parking/dp/B00C3MVK6G

Bob

Thanks!!

[C.Plavan]

Nice work. I like it.

I think the R guys would want a real bumper though. Even little bumpdraft would ruin/break/crack 3/4's of the rear bodywork. I have a fabbed bumper, and I'm still worried about getting tapped and how ex$pensive it will be.

[C.Plavan]

Oh so glad to hear it is not particularly obvious to a few more than just me!

I like the idea of the two in one bulb, but I managed to create 'magic smoke' with both of my bulbs, and have been unable to source any replacements...

Had to resort to standard wedge style filament bulb and a separate LED reverse light in the meantime.

37759

Is that trucklid going to support that wing? Or do you have a brace?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike and I had time to work on our side shift transmission modification.
The reason for the side shifter is 2 fold.
With the side shifter, the shaft sticking out the back and some of the housing can be removed.
#1. For racers, allows for protective steel behind the trans and without the shaft it is less susceptible to damage from bump drafters.
#2. Opens up the space for my rear radiator.

Let me know if you have questions.
Bob


http://youtu.be/NLPjJnvYMAM

Chad
I agree with your comment on body damage. At least you can protect the transmission.
My 818s has no plans for wheel to wheel racing. If I get bumped in the back, it's going to crunch my radiator.
My next task is to seal up where the new shaft come out of the transmission.
Bob

[Hendow]

Hi Chad,

No, the lid certainly won't support the wing once the car is underway. The wing is just sitting on the car, so I can get an idea of its suitability and placement. I plan to reinforce the underside of the lid by glassing in some alloy 'straps' or similar, then building a support frame off the lower chassis to take any downforce loads.

My goal is to be able to open the trunklid with the wing attached, yet still have suitable structural strength underneath the lid, without having to cut too much of the beautiful carbon inlaid bodywork... one of a kind, so any cutting is done nervously and carefully!

I'm really keen to get any secrets from your R spec brothers on their wing structure designs, as its an area that is not very well covered by FFR.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Installed my Lokar Parking brake today.
Only went to the back right wheel.
Thanks Wayne for the handle mounting Idea.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38027&d=1422143460

[wleehendrick]

Installed my Lokar Parking brake today.
Only went to the back right wheel.

Open diff? One wheel burn-out! ;)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Open diff? One wheel burn-out! ;)
Never thought about that, until now.
Yes, I'm open diff.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael was grinding a slot in a small steel bracket using a small angle grinder.
He had the part clamp to the edge of a table. The grinder grabbed the bracket and shot it across the room.
Hitting our powder coating stove.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38038&d=1422160358

[Mechie3]

Bye bye! Hope he was wearing safety glasses.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bye bye! Hope he was wearing safety glasses.
he was wearing safety glasses. The stove was 20 ft away.
Bob

[Evan78]

Looks like a good excuse to build a bigger oven ;)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Disassembled my MR2 shifter. Going to rebuild it with a new baseplate and an ebay handle.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38337&d=1422829869

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38338&d=1422829870

[RM1SepEx]

Going to keep the two cables above the shifter mount like the original MR2? Very interested, however it looks even shorter than the original MR2 unit

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Going to keep the two cables above the shifter mount like the original MR2? Very interested, however it looks even shorter than the original MR2 unit

Dan
The 2 shifters in the post above are the same length. MR2 shifter come in multiple lengths. The one you have is longer.
I'm looking at moving my cables into the tunnel. not as simple as I hoped.
Bob

[Frank818]

Wow, very nice piece!! Came blue like that or you painted it blue like your frame?

[STiPWRD]

Dan
The 2 shifters in the post above are the same length. MR2 shifter come in multiple lengths. The one you have is longer.
I'm looking at moving my cables into the tunnel. not as simple as I hoped.
Bob
Bob, what issue did you run into? I also bought an MR2 shifter and was planning on installing it inside the tunnel where the base plate would be under the top tubes.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, what issue did you run into? I also bought an MR2 shifter and was planning on installing it inside the tunnel where the base plate would be under the top tubes.
Hi StiWRD,
My goal is to get the cables down in the tunnel.
I was looking at mounting a base plate on top the tunnel, then flip the bell crank so it points down.
Then extend the shift arm down and connect cable outer jacket.
In theory all would work, to implement it would be hooky.

I think you and I are going to end up with the same thing. Last night I decided it wound be much simpler to just drop the shifter 2" into the tunnel to the tunnel, which would hide the cable and be pretty simple to implement.
I should have this done by Wednesday, I will post pictures.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I'm making the tunnel taller, same effect. If you drop it under the tunnel the shifter is too low IMO, and my shifter is taller than yours

[STiPWRD]

Hi StiWRD,
My goal is to get the cables down in the tunnel.
I was looking at mounting a base plate on top the tunnel, then flip the bell crank so it points down.
Then extend the shift arm down and connect cable outer jacket.
In theory all would work, to implement it would be hooky.

I think you and I are going to end up with the same thing. Last night I decided it wound be much simpler to just drop the shifter 2" into the tunnel to the tunnel, which would hide the cable and be pretty simple to implement.
I should have this done by Wednesday, I will post pictures.
Bob
Awesome, I'll stay tuned. The handle you bought looks pretty nice (I assume you plan to leave that visible?). I was just going to use a boot so things don't have to be pretty underneath.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Awesome, I'll stay tuned. The handle you bought looks pretty nice (I assume you plan to leave that visible?). I was just going to use a boot so things don't have to be pretty underneath.
That handle is to short and will be hidden if I drop the shifter into the tunnel.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Finished my new shifter design. My main goal was to get rid of the sloppy feel of the shifter caused by the backlash in the cables.
Shorter cables with less turns did the trick. I feel it is as good as the stock Subaru shifter.
I used parts from an MR2 shifter with 7' Teleflex xtreme cables. The mechanism is below the top of the tunnel, so a flat plate will cover it up. Picture and video below.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39103&d=1424924443



http://youtu.be/WnetQwWFmlo

[Kurk818]

That looks solid. Awesome work. The FFR shifter setup is definitely a downfall, especially with my 6speed trans. Ill definitely keep your design in mind if i decide to finally do something about it.

[Frank818]

Simplest design I've even seen! Looks so full race! I love it, but I'm gonna love my k-tuned shifter as well. :)

[STiPWRD]

Bob, that looks great, I may have to borrow. Can you take 1 or 2 more pics from the driver side?

[RM1SepEx]

Looks great Bob... Shifter is pretty low since you dropped it into the tunnel 2 inches. What did you use for a clevis on the fore and aft motion? I've been looking a how to best mate up the 1/4 -28 threaded cable with the huge stock MR2 attachment hole. I have my MR2 shifter rebuilt and mounted on a single 1/4 inch thick AL plate on top of the tunnel. I'll be making my tunnel about 3 inches taller than stock. Should be ready for a video in a couple days, the rear bell crank came out sweet and those cables are sooooooo much better! No slop at all.

The cables are so good that I think that my upgraded billet FFR shifter (for sale BTW) with just longer Teleflex vs the junk cables would have solved many of the inherant shifting issues!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, that looks great, I may have to borrow. Can you take 1 or 2 more pics from the driver side?


Looks great Bob... Shifter is pretty low since you dropped it into the tunnel 2 inches. What did you use for a clevis on the fore and aft motion? I've been looking a how to best mate up the 1/4 -28 threaded cable with the huge stock MR2 attachment hole. I have my MR2 shifter rebuilt and mounted on a single 1/4 inch thick AL plate on top of the tunnel. I'll be making my tunnel about 3 inches taller than stock. Should be ready for a video in a couple days, the rear bell crank came out sweet and those cables are sooooooo much better! No slop at all.

The cables are so good that I think that my upgraded billet FFR shifter (for sale BTW) with just longer Teleflex vs the junk cables would have solved many of the inherant shifting issues!

Thanks guys.
I used the same clevis for each. McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#6414k13/=w2w4je
I drilled them out to 1.00 mm. And taped them to 1/4-28.
On the fore-aft one, I cut on of the legs off the clevis.
Bob

A couple more pictures
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39132&d=1424978186

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39133&d=1424978192

[STiPWRD]

That's perfect, much appreciated! Was there anything else needed to make this setup work? Are those 1" aluminum spacers and can I find those cable tie downs on McMaster also? Just trying to order everything at once to avoid multiple shipping costs.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That's perfect, much appreciated! Was there anything else needed to make this setup work? Are those 1" aluminum spacers and can I find those cable tie downs on McMaster also? Just trying to order everything at once to avoid multiple shipping costs.
Yes, 1/4" x 1" long unthreaded spacers and straps from MMC.
I thought the MMC straps were weak. But I'm sticking with them.

I did use the blue plate off of post#388. You could use the MR2 plate cut down.
I used 7ft cables with my side shift trans. You will need longer if you go with FFR shift brackets.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, even with the stock rear shift location my new cables are 7 feet. I cut off the side to side stud and redrilled it for a 1/4 inch bolt. I used a 1/4 -28 threaded female rod end. I drilled the front to back hole 3/8 and inserted a 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bronze bushing so that I could use a female rod end on that one too. My plate is on top of the tunnel so I need to shim up the clamps from McMaster for the cables. I'll have photos tomorrow, just started mounting it this afternoon. While I can easily heat the garage a bit to make it livable, my feet get cold and I have to come in to warm them!

I modified the rear brackets and added a bell crank for the twist motion. I mounted that cable to a piece of 2 x 2 aluminum and bolted it with the same holes as the chopped up stock bracket. Photos tomorrow on my thread... ???

Cables I used http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, even with the stock rear shift location my new cables are 7 feet. I cut off the side to side stud and redrilled it for a 1/4 inch bolt. I used a 1/4 -28 threaded female rod end. I drilled the front to back hole 3/8 and inserted a 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bronze bushing so that I could use a female rod end on that one too. My plate is on top of the tunnel so I need to shim up the clamps from McMaster for the cables. I'll have photos tomorrow, just started mounting it this afternoon. While I can easily heat the garage a bit to make it livable, my feet get cold and I have to come in to warm them!

I modified the rear brackets and added a bell crank for the twist motion. I mounted that cable to a piece of 2 x 2 aluminum and bolted it with the same holes as the chopped up stock bracket. Photos tomorrow on my thread... ???

Hey Dan,
Throw some cardboard on the floor. Keep those toes warm.

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, almost done... here are some teaser shots. A friend turned the link for the rear twist linkage, I'll assemble tomorrow after my solar EV meeting... attempting to justify PV panels using a 30% tax credit!

Bob, my ball and socket joint allows too much movement of the ball, I've obviously assembled something wrong!

39135 39136 39137 39138

Edit: Figured it out, too much clearance around the hole, doesn't hold the socket down well, will "fix" tomorrow with a thin piece of aluminum to hold it down

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, almost done... here are some teaser shots. A friend turned the link for the rear twist linkage, I'll assemble tomorrow after my solar EV meeting... attempting to justify PV panels using a 30% tax credit!

Bob, my ball and socket joint allows too much movement of the ball, I've obviously assembled something wrong!

39135 39136 39137 39138

Edit: Figured it out, too much clearance around the hole, doesn't hold the socket down well, will "fix" tomorrow with a thin piece of aluminum to hold it down

Looks good Dan
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I added a .050 sheet of aluminum with the proper sized hole on top of the shifter "cup", now it feels AWESOME :o

[Mitch Wright]

Guys, thanks for the great MR2 shifter idea's

[RM1SepEx]

You could do the same thing by reversing the std shifter and either use a second bellcrank to revrse the fore and aft movement or do what Andrew and Tamra did and relocate the fore aft cable to above the pivot point. I have one of FFR's billet shifters for sale that would work awesome in that orientation if you want to show off some nice aluminum machining http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16827-Factory-Five-Billet-Shifter $50 less than from FFR with free shipping. I actually think that if you used long Teleflex cables instead of the cheap ones provided with the kit the loops wouldn't be an issue

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Just thought I'd post this for all my auto crosser friends


http://youtu.be/bX-hAJV3iNM

[Tamra]

Such a great video! Our first autox is next weekend, weather dependent. We won't be bringing the 818 out yet, but we'll likely make an appearance in our Miata and see if we remember how to drive.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I decided to bring the dog house home to assemble it.
From what I'm learning, I am thinking that it would have been much more difficult on the car.
I have not trimmed anything yet. Putting the fender, hood and bumpers together. Everything had to be pulled in place. I am hoping that leaving it all set together for a few days, the parts will start to play together.

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39381

39382

I tried to put the headlight buckets in with no success. The headlights were sitting way to high for the nose of the fender to meet the bumper.
Right know I have the headlights in with no buckets. I only have some minor trimming to do to get a good fit of the lens of the headlight to the bumper. I probably won't trim the fenders headlight interface.

I will have to get creative with the buckets to hold the headlights in. Here is what it looks like from the inside right now.
Bob

39383

.

[Frank818]

Bob, the FFR black headlights supports (plastic) aren't fitted on your last pic, those are the ones that make the headlights sit way too high?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, the FFR black headlights supports (plastic) aren't fitted on your last pic, those are the ones that make the headlights sit way too high?
I tried both the Fiberglass buckets and the Plastic buckets. I could not get close with either type.
So temporarily, I put the headlights in with NO buckets. (as shown in the pictures above)
Now that I know where they headlights have to be, I will try and make the buckets work.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

In Michael's impreza there are 3 plastic buttons for the horn.
They are on the back of the steering wheel air bag.
Does somebody have some extra ones or know the part number so I can buy them.

39416

Thanks
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I'll look this AM Bob...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm a very happy camper.
Just completed my first headlight.
No cutting or trimming fiberglass.
No Gaps, looks great. IMO.
Spent about 6-8 hours on this one. A lot of trial and error.
The next light should take about an hour now that I know what to do.
I will take pictures and do a write up on the next one.
Don't even think about doing this on the car, that would be ridicules.
Bob

PS: here is a like to my real job.
http://www.gizmag.com/lightning-ls218-review-ls-218/36470/pictures


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39544&d=1426058724

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39545&d=1426058726

[Kurk818]

Id like to see it installed on the chassis. Gaps definitely change once you try to bolt everything together.

[Frank818]

Can't wait to see your procedure Bob, I'll try to mimic it (will certainly fail cuz I am not as good as you but at least I'll try :)). Interesting point Kurk brought up, hopefully it fits well once bolted on.

[Kurk818]

Another tip: I cut off approx 1/2" from the side of the mounting points on the frame where the bumper mounts behind the headlight and rounded the corner to match the fiberglass more or less. That mount created a lot of fitment frustration before realizing that it was the culprit.

[Frank818]

Another tip: I cut off approx 1/2" from the side of the mounting points on the frame where the bumper mounts behind the headlight

On the frame behind the headlights? Close to the rad frame support? Not too sure where you made that cut.

[Kurk818]

On the frame behind the headlights? Close to the rad frame support? Not too sure where you made that cut.

Yes, on the frame behind the headlights. I cut off approx 1/2" from the wheel side in. It basically narrowed up the width of the mounting points. The same mount where the headlight tab is mounted.

Hope this helps. Ill try to post a photo

[FFRSpec72]

Why are the headlights such a pain ? Seems like you just slap that puppy in ?

[Kurk818]

Why are the headlights such a pain ? Seems like you just slap that puppy in ?

Ha! Quote of the century :)

To make them look like they belong in that area and to have the beam pointed in somewhat of a correct direction, id say yes, they are a pain.

[FFRSpec72]

Ha! Quote of the century :)

To make them look like they belong in that area and to have the beam pointed in somewhat of a correct direction, id say yes, they are a pain.

Hmmm, maybe I will have to wait until you are back in the Redmond/Bellevue area and you can come do mine !!!!

[Kurk818]

Hmmm, maybe I will have to wait until you are back in the Redmond/Bellevue area and you can come do mine !!!!

Im in Bellevue daily. I could definitely give you some pointers.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wait till I post the video before comments. That will make it much clearer.

Kurk818, I am going to try and install my dog house as one complete (propery gapped) assembly.
Then wedge,shim,cut,cuss,fill,cuss,grind,cuss as necessary, or I might just "slap that puppy"
Do you think that will work?
Bob

[Kurk818]

Wait till I post the video before comments. That will make it much clearer.

Kurk818, I am going to try and install my dog house as one complete (propery gapped) assembly.
Then wedge,shim,cut,cuss,fill,cuss,grind,cuss as necessary, or I might just "slap that puppy"
Do you think that will work?
Bob

I really hope yours goes in easier than mine. Eager to find out :)

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, you have to clip the front mounting pads almost everyone finds that the front bracing sits too far to the left, Do some simple diagonal measurements and you will see, once you cut them back 3/8 or so you can get the nose on square, as is the nose just fits on those pads, you can't shift it around to get it even and square

I have fiberglass buckets, you need to cut them back where the diagonal brace comes up from the bottom. My headlights fit fine with the buckets up tight to the nose

I'm working out an alternative brace for the front under the bucket. The steel "Z" braces are a joke, far too long. I want to bond in a 1/4 20 stud so I don't have an exposed screw under the headlight and use a spacer so I can adjust the height of the headlight from underneath... http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=w9mdsx

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, you have to clip the front mounting pads almost everyone finds that the front bracing sits too far to the left, Do some simple diagonal measurements and you will see, once you cut them back 3/8 or so you can get the nose on square, as is the nose just fits on those pads, you can't shift it around to get it even and square

I have fiberglass buckets, you need to cut them back where the diagonal brace comes up from the bottom. My headlights fit fine with the buckets up tight to the nose

I'm working out an alternative brace for the front under the bucket. The steel "Z" braces are a joke, far too long. I want to bond in a 1/4 20 stud so I don't have an exposed screw under the headlight and use a spacer so I can adjust the height of the headlight from underneath... http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=w9mdsx

Hey Dan
I don't know if my frame will be to far to the left. Remember my steering rack is 20mm to far to the right.
Correction: my rack is 20mm to far left.

But I will measure once and cut 6 times.

I have both kinds of buckets. Tony suggested the plastic ones, so that is what I used.
I made a z brace with an adjustable bonded stud.
Bob

39546

[RM1SepEx]

that's the ticket, same as my idea...

the rack isn't the issue it's those rectangular pads that the nose sits on. Measure diagonally from the windshield tubing or some other easy to get to spot. When they weld up the radiator frame it distorts to the left due to how it is fixtured (as per Chris, our resident welding poohbah) If you look at the online GRM video they clip the left pads to even it out. Right now the spacing is such that it forces the nose to be crooked. I clipped 3/8 off the front, 3/8 off the outside of the left pad. I also put a nice 3/8 radius on the outside points of those brackets. This allows you to move the nose side to side and front to back. See how I can slide my nose onto the pads to totally cover the pads...

39547 39548 39549 39550

39551 39552 39553

You can see how much I had to cut the buckets to allow the nose to slide back. I still need a piece of aluminum angle at the bottom for the front lower attachment.

you can also see how my nose has to be pushed to the right to square up, the fiberglass is at the edge of the radiator on the right and over it about 1/4 on the left...

Oh yeah, I loosened all the bolts and used a ratchet strap to pull it to the right and still had to grind the pad. You can move it quite a bit just by pulling it against the mounting brackets due to hole clearance etc...

[Kurk818]

that's the ticket, same as my idea...

the rack isn't the issue it's those rectangular pads that the nose sits on. Measure diagonally from the windshield tubing or some other easy to get to spot. When they weld up the radiator frame it distorts to the left due to how it is fixtured (as per Chris, our resident welding poohbah) If you look at the online GRM video they clip the left pads to even it out. Right now the spacing is such that it forces the nose to be crooked. I clipped 3/8 off the front, 3/8 off the outside of the left pad. I also put a nice 3/8 radius on the outside points of those brackets. This allows you to move the nose side to side and front to back. See how I can slide my nose onto the pads to totally cover the pads...

39547 39548 39549 39550

39551 39552 39553

You can see how much I had to cut the buckets to allow the nose to slide back. I still need a piece of aluminum angle at the bottom for the front lower attachment.

you can also see how my nose has to be pushed to the right to square up, the fiberglass is at the edge of the radiator on the right and over it about 1/4 on the left...

Oh yeah, I loosened all the bolts and used a ratchet strap to pull it to the right and still had to grind the pad. You can move it quite a bit just by pulling it against the mounting brackets due to hole clearance etc...

Doesnt the pulling to the side mess with the alignment of the hood with relation to the bumper lines?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Doesnt the pulling to the side mess with the alignment of the hood with relation to the bumper lines?
Moving the nose to the left or right is going to mess with all the gaps..
Last night I measured my radiator frame about 8 different ways. It is square within an 1/8".
I will check alignment with the car when I put it on.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I published my headlight install video in the body & Interior - 818 Forum

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17286-Bob_n_Cincy-Head-Light-install-procedure&p=191708&viewfull=1#post191708

[K3LAG]

Bob,

Nicely done. It will be a help when I do mine soon.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Nope, my radiator bracket is off to the left, Chris' was too, if you trim the pads it allows you to move the front end around to get it straight. There is some slop in the tabs, holes etc... mine didn't allow you to center the radiator frame. I seem to remember some not even able to get the holes to align, the tabs to slide between each other. Without cutting the pads my nose, like others, could not be put in place centered, just like in the GRM build video

Bob an 1/8 isn't bad, mine was 3/8 and between the sharp corner forcing the nose into one place and it being the exact width of the fiberglass the nose could only be placed 3/8 off to the left. If you trim the pads the nose can be moved around to center it and to move it back. The manual expects it to bolt to the front lower bar, even trimming the pads my nose can't go back that far...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Today we installed our rear firewall and cockpit aluminum.
Michael wants the racecar look. So all the aluminum is outside the frame. It will be a simple interior with no carpet or vinyl.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39763&d=1427000305


We also test fit the rear of the body. The humps hit the roll bar by about 1/4" so I will move the body back about that far.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39764&d=1427000371

Probably going to go with the double trapezoid in the rear to vent my rear radiator.
Bob

[Tamra]

Is the rear fitment as good as it looks in the photo? Any trimming yet?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is the rear fitment as good as it looks in the photo? Any trimming yet?
No trimming yet.
The engine cover (humps) is to tight in the front and has a 1/2" gap in the back. We may need on of mechie3 anti spreader bars.
The trunk cover will easily be pulled down by the pins to fit. Both covers with need edge trimming to fit flush.
Here is a couple more pictures.

39833

39834

[Mechie3]

I see now what you mean about aluminum on the outside. I kinda like that and would make mounting seatbelts easier too.

[DMC7492]

Hi Bob the video of the morphed lotus that was on post 321 is not working, I wanted to review the part where he mentioned the cooling vents on the hood where recontoured to allow a low pressure area for the vent to pull air out of the hood, I wanted to post this in the thread about the air to air cooling. Someone mentioned the hood vents. Not being efficient. Any idea what happened to the Utube video?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob the video of the morphed lotus that was on post 321 is not working, I wanted to review the part where he mentioned the cooling vents on the hood where recontoured to allow a low pressure area for the vent to pull air out of the hood, I wanted to post this in the thread about the air to air cooling. Someone mentioned the hood vents. Not being efficient. Any idea what happened to the Utube video?
Don, I replaced the video with another of the same car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=181879&viewfull=1#post181879

[metalmaker12]

I see now what you mean about aluminum on the outside. I kinda like that and would make mounting seatbelts easier too.

I thought of doing this, I like it a lot

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I were working on aligning the body tonight. We moved the body 7/8" off the front firewall instead of the recommended 5/8". We did this to avoid trimming engine cover / roll bar interference.
Will the extra 1/4" come back to haunt us somewhere else?
Bob

[K3LAG]

Michael and I were working on aligning the body tonight. We moved the body 7/8" off the from firewall instead of the recommended 5/8". We did this to avoid trimming engine cover / roll bar interference.
Will the extra 1/4" come back to haunt us somewhere else?
Bob

It might create less clearance where the front fender, hood and windshield frame meet. Even with mine at 5/8ths it's pretty tight.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It might create less clearance where the front fender, hood and windshield frame meet. Even with mine at 5/8ths it's pretty tight.
Larry
Thanks Larry
I guess the bumper also might not fit on the steel nose.
Bob

[K3LAG]

Thanks Larry
I guess the bumper also might not fit on the steel nose.
Bob

The bumper shouldn't be a problem. Most seem to find that there is a gap between the front of the radiator support and the bumper which has required making a bracket anyway. It might cause some extra trimming where the mounting tabs are up by the headlights though.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I'd be more concerned with the door latch brackets, they only adjust so far back so make sure that you can swing them up to sit flush against the fiberglass. I also had to add an aluminum bracket under the radiator support. I cleaned up the nose pads to allow space to move the nose into a square position.

[DMC7492]

Hi Bob I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?
Hi Don,
I went around the driver side of the engine. No gas tank in the way helps.
39941

39943


Bob

[Mechie3]

Bob, I'd be more concerned with the door latch brackets, they only adjust so far back so make sure that you can swing them up to sit flush against the fiberglass. I also had to add an aluminum bracket under the radiator support. I cleaned up the nose pads to allow space to move the nose into a square position.

My body is too far back adn this is about my biggest problem. I need to clearance those brackets or the frame for a nicer fit.

[RM1SepEx]

My body is too far back adn this is about my biggest problem. I need to clearance those brackets or the frame for a nicer fit.

Decisions, decisions... so many areas create issues in other areas, I wanted to go farther back for roll bar clearance but it screws up the latch brackets and my hood clearance for wipers. And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution, looks like an afterthought IMNSHO :rolleyes:

[DMC7492]

Hi Don,
I went around the driver side of the engine. No gas tank in the way helps.
39941

39943


Bob
Thanks Bob, I was wondering if the cables were that flexible, now I know!!

[Frank818]

And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution

I second that. I have 3 ideas in mind right now, but I am far from test fitting wipers.

Bob you fitted the FFR's?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I second that. I have 3 ideas in mind right now, but I am far from test fitting wipers.

Bob you fitted the FFR's?

No wipers for me. Just some rain-x.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My fiberglass panels are from 2013.
I need to pull the panels in with 20-40 pounds of force to get them to line up with my engine covers. (Mechie3 bar)

My Question. Well the panels conform to this shape with time?
Thanks
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40217&d=1428162082

[freds]

[QUOTE=RM1SepEx;193175]Decisions, decisions... so many areas create issues in other areas, I wanted to go farther back for roll bar clearance but it screws up the latch brackets and my hood clearance for wipers. And there is no way I'll cut my hood for the FFR wiper solution, looks like an afterthought IMNSHO :rolleyes:[/QUOTE

I think they look OK
40218

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I installed the Craig's bar yesterday, it does pull them in. Your gap looks tight at the rear corner, it can't be that tight on the other side... my sides are new but the rear clip is older...

Bob can you measure up from the side panels to the windshield frame and from the top square tube across in back of the seats? I found that to get the measurements even close, side to side my driver's side windshield frame is down and forward and my passenger side is up and back

my targets are 20 inches from sidepod to the cut off windshield post and 47.5 inches from the frame tube to the rear lower point of that same cut... I've been measuring all damn day

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, I installed the Craig's bar yesterday, it does pull them in. Your gap looks tight at the rear corner, it can't be that tight on the other side... my sides are new but the rear clip is older...

Bob can you measure up from the side panels to the windshield frame and from the top square tube across in back of the seats? I found that to get the measurements even close, side to side my driver's side windshield frame is down and forward and my passenger side is up and back

my targets are 20 inches from sidepod to the cut off windshield post and 47.5 inches from the frame tube to the rear lower point of that same cut... I've been measuring all damn day

Hi Dan,
My rear engine cover is tight on both sides.
I have 3 set of panels. 2 (2013) and 1 (2014 crashed) . I should mix and match to see if anything fits.

I have not even thought about my windshield yet. I'll have install it before I get any of your measurements.
Bob

[AZPete]

Bob, try this since your rear engine cover is tight at both sides. I had the same problem and there was also a large gap between the engine cover and the bumper at the center. I made a bracket and used a coat hanger and turnbuckle to pull the center of the bumper inward. This also pushed the outer edges outward and eased the sides. Now, after about 2 months, I removed the coat hanger brace and the bumper remembers the shape.
40219

[RM1SepEx]

Nice Pete, I need to do that with mine as well as the rear clip doesn't match the engine cover well on mine too... The only problem is that it does match my nice $$$ CF street spoiler... ???? another UGH! Time for a beer I guess :rolleyes:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, try this since your rear engine cover is tight at both sides. I had the same problem and there was also a large gap between the engine cover and the bumper at the center. I made a bracket and used a coat hanger and turnbuckle to pull the center of the bumper inward. This also pushed the outer edges outward and eased the sides. Now, after about 2 months, I removed the coat hanger brace and the bumper remembers the shape.
40219
Great info Pete. Good to hear that the FG conforms to the shape. My 2 horizontal gaps are even, just way to big. I 'll put pictures in my next post.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Today I spent a lot of time aligning my rear panels. I used turn buckles to pull my side sails in to close the gaps. I am happy with those results.
40247 40248

I was not happy with the gaps going across the car.
With my humps lined up with my side sail door openings. The total gaps between the humps, trunk, and rear bumper was 0.9 inches. They are very large. Has anyone else had this problem? Or is it just me?
Bob

40251 40252 40253

[Hindsight]

When it comes to panels that need to "settle" into place, I wonder if using weights or wires or whatever to get them bent/flexed properly and then putting a halogen lamp a couple feet away shining shining on the panel for a couple days would "set" it?

[RM1SepEx]

I use gallon jugs, gravity, time and temp will indeed help them to conform to shape

Bob the gaps are indeed large, like Pete the rear arcs don't match, you need a larger gap at the engine cover to trunk joint as they are curved and need to be able to rotate. That's why I said screw it to hinges. They have to be in the humps and I didn't like the complexity, too easy to damage the finish. That's why I bolted the engine cover down... I'm going to make a small hinged cover in the hump aluminum to access the oil fill and dipstick.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I put my Race splitter on just to see what it looks like.
I LIKE IT.
What is the little diffuser on the splitter for?
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40255&d=1428204059

[Frank818]

Hey me too I got the race. What are you going to fit between the splitter and under battery tray (under gas tank for you)? There is an open section in the floor before and under the steering rack, I was just measuring that this morning at 3am, couldn't sleep cuz I thought I was missing a part or something in the build process...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I have spent the last 12 hours of 818 time working on the front hood, bumpers and fenders.
We are slowly getting close.
Our gaps are pretty good now. Once we are done with the gaps we will start trimming al the returns on hood, humps, and trunk.
So far we have done very little panel trimming.

Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40424&d=1428719991

[RM1SepEx]

Looks great Bob, you need the windshield too because that area can be a bear!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks great Bob, you need the windshield too because that area can be a bear!
Dan,
The windshield frame is installed, even though you can't see it.
I have it down low and leaned all the way back.
What is your distance between the fender tips and the windshield frame.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Maybe 3/16 out of town today can't measure until tomorrow
Photos on my thread be sure to measure up from rockers and back from top rear sq tube. You can't expect it to be even just due to slot position. Mine is down and forward on the left and back and up on the right

[Frank818]

Woa, that hood/bumper gap is awesome. 12h at 2 people, I don't wanna know how long it will take for me alone... :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm bringing the discussion on rear radiator over to my thread and off Chad's.


I second a quality racing radiator like what Ron Davis makes. 3-4 times thicker than stock.
If you think about it, all of the exhaust, the engine and the tranny are all in that space. The tranny gets hot. Even when moving there is very likely some dead-air spots back there in the stock kit configuration. I do not care for the idea of anything in the back working off pre-heated air; certainly not the radiator. Segregating it and supplying it with fresh air seems impractical.


That's what I meant, all that hot air going through the radiator. I could not keep the engine compartment cool with the rear hatch off (humps). It still caused my oil cooler to get too hot.

Scargo,
I totally agree on using a higher quality radiator.

Mine has a core that is twice the thickness as the OEM.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=RAD-WRX022L&Category_Code=

Yes I have a lot of heat producing components in the engine bay. But I also have 2 big *** fans removing heat from the compartment.

The hard part is getting cool air in.
First I will recess the side sails to make each opening 5" x 12".
If that isn't enough, I will add some scoops.

I plan on running my first autocross (body on) in a week or 2. Then a track day in mid May.
Bob

[Tamra]

I hope it works! Can't wait to hear how the autocross goes.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

With all the talk of hot engine bays. Michael and I built our radiator fan shroud tonight to help force hot air out of the engine bay. We are using 2 12" pusher fans.
This should replace all the air in the engine bay every 3 seconds. We should not have a heat problem.

Bob

My radiator without the shroud. Disregard the awic cooler. It's not going there.
40886

Fan Shroud inside view
40885

radiator assembly
40884

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Building on my 818 sometime take a back seat to my LS218 work.
Here are a couple of new videos.
Bob


https://youtu.be/o3DiAecsh_0


https://youtu.be/_dbuP4vhlPM

[Ellimist]

Building on my 818 sometime take a back seat to my LS218 work.
Here are a couple of new videos.
Bob


https://youtu.be/o3DiAecsh_0


https://youtu.be/_dbuP4vhlPM

That's a seriously cool bike!

[Harley818]

Hi Bob,
I have alot of the same problems you do. I have kit 100.

I have about 5/8 gap between the trunk and bumper and humps.
My philosophy is not to stress the fiberglass to much but work it so it fits without stress.

I started by assembling the front off the car, then setting the front on the car so that the fenders would be centered on the wheels. I radiused the front bumper mounting points so I would have a bit more wiggle room.

When the fender was set, I had to raise the back fender mounts with a 1/2 in spacer to clear the windshield. Initially i had it too high till Dan pointed that out. Now its good.
Once the front is set, I adjusted the side sails front to back till the front could mount correctly on the front of the side sails. You don't really have any adjustment with this. Now double check your windshield rake and position so that you can still add the soft top. Mine needed a bit of adjustment.
That really sets the location of the side sails. Mine are not 5/8, but actually flush with the front. (0 inches instead of 5/8 from the front).
You asked what the impact is if you go back to 7/8. I don't think you will be able to connect the front fenders.
Can you still connect the front fenders with it located at 7/8? Are your front wheels centered in the wheelwells? I based my front location centered on the wheels, then that defines where the back goes. i can adjust the front to back location of my rear wheels with the adjustable trailing links.
Once I did all this, the rear section just barely cleared the rollbar, but ended up with big gaps between the trunks and bumper. i can always add fiberglass to fix that.
I did have to pull up each side sail at the rear mounting location to get it in far enough to give me 1/8 gaps. I have 13 3/4 distance from the top shock bolt to the outside of the rear fender at the wheels. Both sides are a bit different if you measure from the top of the fender to the rear cross-bar. I have different measurements than Dan in this area. For some reason, its not the same side to side, and mine are opposite to Dans.
I'm going into the garage tomorrow to see if I can get it finalized.
Dont forget to install your windshield fiberglass trim..... it will get in the way if you don't factor it in.

Good luck.... nice build so far.... on both.

[RM1SepEx]

Harley, I'm between 5/8 and 7/8 on the side sails, my rear lower brace allows for no additional forward movement on the rear clip! I can't go farther back or the side brackets for the door latch can't meet the body opening. I only have 13 inches to the sides of the rear wheel openings from the shock mount. My back/side fender mounts are tweaked to make them follow the body contour better and shimmed up with a couple washers. My only problem now is the roll bar clearance

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Harley, I'm between 5/8 and 7/8 on the side sails, my rear lower brace allows for no additional forward movement on the rear clip! I can't go farther back or the side brackets for the door latch can't meet the body opening. I only have 13 inches to the sides of the rear wheel openings from the shock mount. My back/side fender mounts are tweaked to make them follow the body contour better and shimmed up with a couple washers. My only problem now is the roll bar clearance

Dan
one way I am considering gaining roll bar clearance is to move the engine covers back and add material to the door interface area of the panel with humps.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

That way you can reduce the gaps between the engine cover and trunk and trunk and rear clip... sounds logical.

I don't want to have to paint it...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I don't want to have to paint it...
I don't want to pain either, I was going to use Tony Zullo's magic can of gel coat.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

It isn't designed to add significant thickness, not strong enough. Too many places already have a thick coat of gel coat vs fiberglass

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It isn't designed to add significant thickness, not strong enough. Too many places already have a thick coat of gel coat vs fiberglass
Hi Dan,
I was thinking of building it up 1/2" with FG and then only 20 mils of gel coat.
Do you think this will work?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I are ready to trim the return edge on the hood.
Is there a trick to drawing a line at the correct depth?
What tools do you use to do this trimming?
Thanks
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Hi Dan,
I was thinking of building it up 1/2" with FG and then only 20 mils of gel coat.
Do you think this will work?
Bob

yes, that is it's intended application, I think around .1 inch is OK, should be a surface treatment and not be expected to carry a load.

[RM1SepEx]

Michael and I are ready to trim the return edge on the hood.
Is there a trick to drawing a line at the correct depth?
What tools do you use to do this trimming?
Thanks
Bob

I used pinstripe tape, use it to draw a nice edge and then use a drum sander to get close and a flat plate sander to get it straighter... My little detail sander with the triange surface and the 4.5 in rectangular oscillating sander work fine. A belt sander works great IF you can control it, I can't :(

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I used pinstripe tape, use it to draw a nice edge and then use a drum sander to get close and a flat plate sander to get it straighter... My little detail sander with the triange surface and the 4.5 in rectangular oscillating sander work fine. A belt sander works great IF you can control it, I can't :(

Dan,
Did you just measure every so many inches to set the depth?
Bob

[K3LAG]

I used pinstripe tape, use it to draw a nice edge and then use a drum sander to get close and a flat plate sander to get it straighter... My little detail sander with the triange surface and the 4.5 in rectangular oscillating sander work fine. A belt sander works great IF you can control it, I can't :(

I agree with Dan on the belt sander. I have a nice Porter Cable and I found it too heavy and unwieldy to be comfortable. If the cut is wide enough (removing an 1/8" or more) I use an air saw, otherwise I sand, either manual or smaller power sander. Once I cut it with the saw, I sand it with coarse paper to smooth it up.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Dan,
Did you just measure every so many inches to set the depth?
Bob

I don't understand the question. I use 1/8 wide tape and eyeball it, the tape use makes sure that everything is gradual. It's easy to pull up and put back down until you are happy. And remember I have way more hand problems than anyone could even understand! Imagine that every time your finger pushes down a key it makes a vibration "ring" with decreasing amplitude for a few seconds up about 2-4 inches above the wrist...

so, hand drill with 2 inch drum and 60 grit for fast work, then to the flat surface times to ge out any waves. A real man could hold a belt sander with one hand and do it in one step! :rolleyes:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I don't understand the question. I use 1/8 wide tape and eyeball it, the tape use makes sure that everything is gradual. It's easy to pull up and put back down until you are happy. And remember I have way more hand problems than anyone could even understand! Imagine that every time your finger pushes down a key it makes a vibration "ring" with decreasing amplitude for a few seconds up about 2-4 inches above the wrist...

so, hand drill with 2 inch drum and 60 grit for fast work, then to the flat surface times to ge out any waves. A real man could hold a belt sander with one hand and do it in one step! :rolleyes:

Dan
how do you know where to put the pin strip on at?
Do you just take a little off at a time and then test fit? Repeat until good.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

pretty much trial and error, what area are you talking about?

All of my hood, trunk and engine cover returns are still too thick, will need trimming after I install the rubber strips

The fender edges need to be eliminated for the doors to open if you want ALL of the body seams to line up

The rear of my hood will be 1/4 or so to maximize the space for wipers UNDER the existing hood.

Reasons that I won't pull my body as far back as needed for the roll bar clearance is that I want a targa bar over the roll bar so I can have a simple roll up emergency top. I want clearance for wipers and I don't want to modify the door latch brackets

It seems like I'm an expert at installing and removing parts! Just modified those stupid triangles where the brakelines go through today...

Time for my nap!

[Harley818]

Sounds like we are all at about the same place. I'll be taking down my returns as well in the next couple weeks.

Also Dan, I just did the stupid triangles yesterday as well. Now I have to rebleed the brakes....

I have the same problems for the rear trunk. Have you guys thought about putting a solid strip in between the two trunks. Maybe painting it a different colour. This would be a custom way to fill the large gap but still look OK if you paint it a contrasting colour.
I'm thinking I will be building up the rear side of the trunk with 1/2 in of fiberglass and sanding it to the correct dimension. As you point out you could to this also on the front side by the door, but then thats a more complex surface and definitely more noticable.

[RM1SepEx]

I just slotted mine Harley... I need to at them and install tomorrow. Powder coating a bunch of stuff Wednesday

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I fit up our lower rear vent tonight. We like the way it looks.
I like that is 70% open, so very low air restriction.

Should we paint the trim ring blue like the frame?
Black, like the grill?
leave it silver?
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41546&d=1430445820

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41547&d=1430445826

[Kurk818]

Michael and I fit up our lower rear vent tonight. We like the way it looks.
I like that is 70% open, so very low air restriction.

Should we paint the trim ring blue like the frame?
Black, like the grill?
leave it silver?
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41546&d=1430445820

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41547&d=1430445826

Did i miss where you stated where you got the hex mesh? I'm interested in getting the same/similar for mine. Thanks

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Did i miss where you stated where you got the hex mesh? I'm interested in getting the same/similar for mine. Thanks

Hi Kurk
here is a link.
Bob

http://www.customcargrills.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Dia_Plastic_XXL_B6

[RM1SepEx]

Michael and I fit up our lower rear vent tonight. We like the way it looks.
I like that is 70% open, so very low air restriction.

Should we paint the trim ring blue like the frame?
Black, like the grill?
leave it silver?
Bob



get rid of it all together, edge the fiberglass with white rubber edge, I found some with glue on the inside, no big thick ring, maximum opening, finished edge

[Mechie3]

The thing that bugs me the most is that none of the frames FFR provides match the contours of the areas they fit into. The corner radii are different and not concentric.