And it begins..."The Flash" Build Thread

[Erik W. Treves]

I have 265's and they fit fine...

[Mechie3]

What's the actual tire size? My 255 starspecs measured an actual 275.

[Erik W. Treves]

Tread Width : 9.6
Section Width : 10.7

[FFR-ADV]

Wow Erik!

The Diffuser looks great!!

[Frank818]

Nice wheel wells!
Does anyone know if lizard skin would last the rock attacks or it may chip off with time?

[Frank818]

I have 265's and they fit fine...

Let me guess. +45 offset and 265/35/18 Federal Brand Tires with 10mm hub centric spacers?

[Erik W. Treves]

ok you have seen them from the side... +45 offset and 265/35/18 Federal Brand Tires with 10mm hub centric spacers.

The only other thing I had to do is run the upper trailing arm link rear complete inboard with the spacer doubled stacked..oh and 3 inch studs

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20603&d=1376168240

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20602&d=1376168239

good guess....

[Frank818]

Deleted

[Frank818]

Yup, I keep the important stuff on my notepad. :)

So I guess (and that is not on my notepad) same tires on +35 offset wheels would work the same. Or +40 with 5mm spacers.

And anything with 10.7 or less in section width would fit.
Can't recall your tire brand though, but I guess again around 25.4" tall.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looking fantastic Erik! Backing up a little to seats---I saw a set of new in the box Street Performers (Sube Cobra Clubmans) in the classifieds on the other forum recently. Don't recall if you've had a set in any of your cars but I love 'em and they're a good fit for guys our size. Just something you might want to consider.

Regarding insulation for Frank & others; I've used Reflectix (basically a foil backed bubble wrap) on all of the cars I've built:

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/716511/716511516076.jpg

Consisting of plastic/vinyl/foil and air it isn't permeable so rainwater doesn't soak in and go all funky. The FFR supplied carpet on the other hand---that stuff must be made of skunk fur or something and goes bad in a HURRY! When you get caught in the rain (notice I said when, not if, cause it WILL happen) no matter how exhausted you are when you get home immediately pull as much water out of it as you can with a shop-vac and get box fans blowing on it to dry it out. If you wait till the next morning be prepared to have your breath taken when you walk into the garage. Trust me on this one! :p

Jeff

[FFR-ADV]

I have 265's and they fit fine...

Hi Erik,

I might have missed it but could you list the front & rear tire sizes, wheel sizes, offsets, spacers and which Federal tires you are using. You used Wayne's wide tire rear trailing links, but did you make any other special accommodations to make it work?

Thanks so much for your generous sharing of your very special 818S build with this community!

Cheers!

[Erik W. Treves]

sure!

Federal 595 RS-R's

Rears: 265/35/18
Front: 235/40/18 (these are too wide and rub the inner wheel well...will have to notch the aluminum or go to a 215/40/18 which they make in the SS-595)

Enkei Raijin 18's (VCP supplied)

Fronts: 8.5 5x100 45 offset
Rears: 9.5 5x100 45 offset with 10mm spacer and 3 inch ARP studs on STOCK control arms. I did space the upper rear trailing arm inboard.... also in order to jack the car up you have to tether the rear suspension since as the suspension droops you gain toe in and at max droop the tires contact the lower trailing arm (Wayne's arms account for this)...I will probably place some travel limiters instead. I won't be jumping the car anyway and it only happens at FULL droop.

[Erik W. Treves]

Started the interior work today...will get the dash top covered this week and hopefully get the window in on Friday...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23448&d=1384718538

[Canadian818]

The red looks really nice on the dash. Is the centre console between the shifter and dash included in the kit?

[Erik W. Treves]

There is a center console included.. This is not it though.. I am making my own B-)

[FFR-ADV]

Hi Erik,

Thanks for all of the Wheel Tire info in one place. Your build is an inspiration. Wow! The interior looks great!

Thank you for sharing!

[Dan Babb]

Looks great.

Is there a panel that will cover the gap between the top of the dash and the front clip?

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Beautiful job!

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan, the front glass has a black surrounding that will block your view of that area

[Frank818]

Ok Erik, cuz you're the only one as of now (oh wait, is Wayne running 265s as well?), I have to ask you something, about your feelings. No no no, I'm not like a girl asking about a guy's feelings, let me rephrase plz. :)

You have more experience than I do about that, so could you tell me if you think I am heading in the right direction: I won't use a Subaru engine, I plan on fitting a VW VR6. My problem. According to my guesses, this would shift fwd the weight distribution, cuz the VR6 is transversal (engine+tranny) and a little heavier (about 193kg total with tranny) and not much, if anything, would be sitting behind the axles.

That being said, I estimate the 818 would behave a little more in an understeer way (EDIT: OVERSTEER! See post #773). To account for that, I thought that instead of the neutral FFR recommended 215front/255rear I would upgrade to 215f/265r.

That second thing being said, my question to you is: are you happy with your 265/35/18? Would you do it again? Was it fairly easy to fit (assuming wheel wells installed)?

tnx a lot for your opinion again, Erik!

[Erik W. Treves]

Frank, to your first question....I have no idea.. but if read my previous post I would have run 215/265

"Front: 235/40/18 (these are too wide and rub the inner wheel well...will have to notch the aluminum or go to a 215/40/18 which they make in the SS-595)
"

to your second post..

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23299&d=1384211526

other than the fact that they fit in there with the wheel wells installed and they fit nicely under the car....I can't comment much on how much I like them other than they look pretty nice stuffed in there

[Frank818]

So I'm going on 265s, then. :) But maybe on 9.0" rims, not 9.5 (if ones I want aren't made in 9.5). Tnx a lot Erik!

Also cuz the tires I look for have a section width of 10.7" (instead of 10.6) and 10.2 of tread width instead of 9.6"). They should be 0.1" narrower.

[Frank818]

I was wrong. Sorry I meant OVERSTEER, not understeer. :) The result is the same, just not the right choice of word. :)

[bstuke]

Happy Birthday Erik!!!!!
23469

[Frank818]

What? It's his bday??

HAPPY AGING, ERIK!!

[tony chiles]

Happy birthday GOOD friend!!!!!!!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks tony

[Tony Zullo]

Happy birthday buddy!!!! Car looks great...

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks Tony... Wayne got me a member only jacket ;) too funny....you want my old one :p

[Wayne Presley]

Happy Birthday Erik!

[Erik W. Treves]

thanks buddy!

[metalmaker12]

Have a good b day man

[07FIREBLADE]

Have a good b day too.

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks all...had a good one!

[Erik W. Treves]

Got my console done today

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23536&d=1385157146

Tried my hand at wrapping today as well. Placed a carbon fiber inlay in the dash...serves two purposes...1. looks pretty cool. 2. should keep the reflection down..the paint was very bright!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23537&d=1385157147

Covered the dash as well...put it all in there for final fit adjustment...will pull it all back out tomorrow and hook up all the electrical connections for the last time...then on to carpet!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23538&d=1385157148

[AZPete]

Nice work on the dash and I like your console design.
Erik, have you tested your ABS? If so, can you tell us if it is working, please. One proportioning valve on the fronts and an aftermarket ECM, right?

[Erik W. Treves]

have not run or powered the ABS yet...still tons to do....yes one prop valve to the fronts, but I rewired the ABS so the fronts are paired together on the same circuit...I also plumbed it that way . also custom ECU

[Xusia]

Hey Eric, some questions if you don't mind:

1. Which carbon fiber wrap are you using? Do you like it? Is it suitable for exterior body panels as well? I'm looking for something I can use both on body panels, and on the interior.
2. Where did you get the Factory Five logo on your tach? If you had it printed, do you have a file you can share that I can take to a local printer? If Factory Five has fonts, art, or other available, how do I get it?

[RM1SepEx]

artwork is avail from MadDog, just have to ask and sign a basic release... That's where I got the logo for my wheel centers

[Erik W. Treves]

I am using a sample of the 3M carbon fiber wrap...I like it but it is my first try...it is pretty easy to work with and tolerates the heat gun very well. It is suitable for outside...that's what the package said anyway.

The logo I had made online using the fonts from the company...was like $12.. nothing complicated. . it's a vinyl graphic.

[Xusia]

Thanks, I'll hit MadDog up!

[wleehendrick]

Got my console done today

Looks great! I'm going to have to figure out something similar, since the standard console isn't wide enough for a DIN head unit, and I'd prefer not to mount it in the dash. (or sideways!)

[Erik W. Treves]

ok, so....I am going a little crazy with the wrap stuff...but it is sooo fun to work with and I still had some stuff left....so....more details....I even tried my hand at binding the carpet....didn't come out fantastic, but I think it is just passable.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23554&d=1385241743

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23553&d=1385241738

here is the pass side of the console...don't mind the finger prints :D

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23555&d=1385241744

[wallace18]

Looking good Erik. I have to fab a console as well. I am doing something a little more simple. Just 3 gauges. Thanks for the photos.

[Erik W. Treves]

Dash and console all installed for the LAST time....let there be rock!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLAWJgIAie0&feature=youtu.be

[Xusia]

Don't you mean, "Let there be Blues!" :p

[BC Huselton]

Eric, sorry for the late reaction to solution to the wire loom mess, but is that a Painless Circuit Harness? And, could you describe what you specifically did to the donor relay package to make it "Play Nice" with your aftermarket independent harness? I am going to the Electromotive Unit as well, so knowing how to make this chassis harness work effectively is a big solution at a reasonable cost. I believe the harness mess is a really big issue for those of us who are not electrical engineers!

Again, thanks for your commitment to helping with all of this. BC

[Erik W. Treves]

BC,

I got the harness from Wayne..it's not a painless, but similar...As far as making it play nice, I used one of the relay blocks from the donor and just wired it in via the schematics...wayne sells a ready to go kit..did you get the Electromotive from him?

[BC Huselton]

I am getting it from him and trying to understand all of the integrated pieces that I need. I am also planning an AIM digital Dash that plugs directly into the CAN port on the Electromotive. I think this is the cleanest package...expensive, but I can understand it and trouble shoot it in the future.

PS, what crank pulley did you end up buying...to support the Electromotive Wheel?

Thanks for the comeback. BC

[Erik W. Treves]

You need the stock pulley.

[Erik W. Treves]

Well, starting to come out of my sickness...finally...I was expecting to have a ton done...but the flu kicked my butt! Anyway.. What I have left...

1) Seats and seat belts
2) Install the aluminum floor of the cockpit
3) Install windshield
4) Install hood
5) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
6) Install aluminum to close out the double humps (behind the head rests)
7) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
8) set cross weights
9) install door panels
10) Get registered.

that's about it!

Some of the stuff I got done between blowing my nose and being miserable .....

...disclaimer...the car is extremely dusty!! and still have yet to buff on it ...

Modified the front wheel wells to allow me to ALMOST get to lock on the rack..sooo close to lock!! it just starts to touch...I will put some limiters in there I think until I get my 215's...anyway..had to cut the rear panel in half and bend it back about 1 inch

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23828&d=1385946037

then add a pocket for tire to come in some...the driver's side got a pocket (it was rubbing worse) the passenger side got the dead blow and a bat (nice dimple)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23829&d=1385946038

on the ground for the final time...hopefully....aero parts installed. I also lowered the rear ride height...looks mean at 3.5 inch ride height in the back...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23830&d=1385946039

here it is later after reality set in and I set back to 4.5 inches

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23834&d=1385946043

extended the intake tube so it puts the filter right in the vent on the passenger side.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23833&d=1385946042

move the coolant over flow.. note the aluminum "sill plate"... you can not mount ANYTHING to that front bar (the directions are WRONG)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23832&d=1385946041

[Frank818]

Nice updates again.

I thought the rad would have been sitting further up front, guess it's one of the first pic with the body on and trunk open, that I look at. I will have to rethink the location of my 3gal AWIC coolant tank, wanted to fit it there, but nope. :)

[Erik W. Treves]

1.5 things done today.

1) Seats and seat belts
2) Install the aluminum floor of the cockpit
3) Install windshield ---- DONE!!! now drying
4) Install hood
5) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
6) Install aluminum to close out the double humps (behind the head rests)
7) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
8) set cross weights
9) install door panels ----- one done
10) Get registered.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24019&d=1386376042

I tried to cover the door panel in fabric....FAIL...so I will be letting the pro's do these :)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24020&d=1386376043

[metalmaker12]

Awesome Erik

[Racebrewer]

Hi Erik,

Dropping my windshield/frame off to a pro tomorrow (maybe). Any thoughts as to doing yourself? Did you use any type of trim around the glass? The local shop has three types.

Thanks,
john

[Erik W. Treves]

The pro's did the house call today...they did the complete install to include the rubber trim

[Frank818]

I tried to cover the door panel in fabric....FAIL...

Because?

[Erik W. Treves]

...because....I lack the skill....

[Frank818]

Well at least you got the right skills to build the car though. :)

[Aloha818]

1.5 things done today.

1) Seats and seat belts
2) Install the aluminum floor of the cockpit
3) Install windshield ---- DONE!!! now drying
4) Install hood
5) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
6) Install aluminum to close out the double humps (behind the head rests)
7) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
8) set cross weights
9) install door panels ----- one done
10) Get registered.


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24019&d=1386376042

I tried to cover the door panel in fabric....FAIL...so I will be letting the pro's do these :)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24020&d=1386376043

Is that the FFR door panel that comes with the kit? Mine are still on back order.

[metalmaker12]

I am kit number 13 and I don't have mine man . There are people who got there kits like two months after me that do, it is awesome!!

[Erik W. Treves]

Well..kind of..my original panels were the ones from the open house...all aluminum...then I got the follow-on fiberglass and gel-coat version...what you see here is a mix...the entire panel is aluminum except for the "pocket" which I cut out of the fiberglass panel and attached to aluminum.

[Racebrewer]

Hi Erik,

Its looking good ! ! !

Dropped my windshield off at the glass shop today. Got to drop off the frame to get it painted before glass goes in.....

Did you put molding along the bottom of the glass or is it well hidden by the hood? (Installer's question)

Thanks,
John

[Erik W. Treves]

no molding on the bottom

[Erik W. Treves]

1) Seats and seat belts ---- Pass side done
2) Install the aluminum floor of the cockpit
3) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
4) Install aluminum to close out the double humps (behind the head rests)
5) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
6) set cross weights
7) install door panels ----- one done
8) Get registered.

As Wayne warned me, I did not like the operation of the Sedan Seat belts....BUT!

The WAGON placement....is the ticket...belts work like OE! Course the "complete set I ordered was missing the driver's side...rrrr

Hood done

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24042&d=1386451123

Dusty seat..belt installed and check for operation

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24041&d=1386451122

You have to slot this piece for the WAGON-- make sure you slot it beyond the 1.5 square tube or the aluminum will cut the belt in half in an accident!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24043&d=1386451124

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24044&d=1386451125

This wasn't on the list..but my wifey was quick to point out..."where's the squirtter??"..ooops...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icTAZa9Rtro&feature=youtu.be

[Erik W. Treves]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MImwUYagOA

[Canadian818]

So when do we get your DIY wiper mod thread? :)

Looking good, those last details kill a lot of time it would seem.

[Frank818]

As Wayne warned me, I did not like the operation of the Sedan Seat belts....BUT!

The WAGON placement....is the ticket...belts work like OE!

Say that again?
Sedan belts are different? Rear seat belts probably. So what you say is that sedan belts don't fit well and we should get wagon rear belts?

[RM1SepEx]

note in his photo the belt coming up through the aluminum behind the seat. The sedan rear belts are used as designed by FFR. The mount beside the seat and come through a slot in an access panel that you rivet to the side of the frame. They don't like to reel in and out of the FFR position... that's what he is saying.

This is the first time we see this mod. Can you tell us more Erik? or Wayne?

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan..no mod, the kit is designed to use either WAGON or SEDAN..the frame has two mounting points one for sedan and one for wagon. The only thing you have to do is flip the shoulder anchor point and the male insert of the belt...pretty straight forward.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24052&d=1386511914

[RM1SepEx]

too bad it doesn't say anything in the manual about that option... I was wondering what those brackets were for! could the sedan reels be installed in the other location?

[Frank818]

Ok so there is no issue using the SEDAN belts if mounted properly in the proper mounting point?
Asking this cuz I found a deal on a 2005 WRX sedan that doesn't run (I don't need the engine), but if I were to have issues with the belts and order wagon belts, I'd lower my offer to that guy.

[Erik W. Treves]

it does in the picture Dan :D I am all about the pictures...look on page 183 of the manual...it is the only place that shows it (that's where the picture came from)...all the other pictures are for the SEDAN install....and since I only look at the pictures....lol...

there are no brackets to add. The mount point is already on the frame..just bolt the reel onto the frame and done....

could you mount the sedan reels in the wagon position....you would have to make a bracket then... the belts are $17 on ebay, and it would have taken about 2 hours to figure out....so I just bought some...I was going to do exactly that and decided my time was more worth the $40 I spent.

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't notice the picture... I read too much I guess LOL

What did you do with the two side belt mounts? The stock front belts are on metal straps, the rears use fabric straps and the mounts don't fit to the seat mounts, the angle is too long. I flattened them out and made some angles to attach to the floor's tubing. I wish that we had the welded in brackets that I've seen on the "R" frame!

[Erik W. Treves]

just bolted them through the frame as is.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm using the stock seats and I can't get them to fit due to the seat width, also the fabric will rub vs the spring loaded seat back. No room for the plastic covers...

You mounted the reels on the back side, the picture shows them on the front side

[wleehendrick]

1) Seats and seat belts ---- Pass side done

As Wayne warned me, I did not like the operation of the Sedan Seat belts....BUT!

The WAGON placement....is the ticket...belts work like OE! Course the "complete set I ordered was missing the driver's side...rrrr



Looks great, Eric!

BTW, I just got my seats and harnesses so won't be installing my donor's seat belts. They're from an 06 wagon, so if anyone wants em (sorry, taken!), first person to PM me can have them (just pay for shipping)

P.S. Please share your wiper mounting info, inquiring minds want to know!

[metalmaker12]

Yea wiper mount info, since FFR is not responding to my questions on it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

As I have a wagon donor, I used the firewall seat belt mounting point. With them mounted on the inside of the cockpit they hit my seat. I swap left and right and mounted them to the engine side of the firewall same as Erik. They worked great.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24077&d=1386531551
24241

[Erik W. Treves]

more pictures for you Dan ;)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24079&d=1386546836

and we now have a PAIR of door panels!! the list is getting smaller!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24078&d=1386546835

1) Seats and seat belts ---- Pass side done
2) Install the aluminum floor of the cockpit
3) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
4) Install aluminum to close out the double humps (behind the head rests)
5) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
6) set cross weights
7) Get registered.


As far as the wiper goes...look at post 525..there is a good pic of what I did...It has been a challenge to get it to work. I would wait for the FFR solution. I had to make something to hold the hood up to give it an arch (since the hood is so thin) high enough to clear the arm as it sweeps the windshield. This caused the hood to bow a little and it raised the sides of the hood...so I had to raise the fenders a little to make up the gap, but it came out really good. After the seal for the window went in the arm actually hits the window in the parked position. I placed a piece of rubber molding on the window and it seems to be working and doesn't make a ton of noise when it drags across it...I just got tunnel focused and wanted a wiper...why..I have no idea..my cobra doesn't have one and with rainx, I never wished I had one...my first cobra had them, but I had a hardtop and drove it in the snow as well....just time at this point and it's too cold to drive it...so I figured..might as well....

[metalmaker12]

In RI we need wipers to get registered, so I need a solution that works well, although I am prob running the windscreen soon after I get the plates

[Erik W. Treves]

then I would just get a cheap old clip on for registration then take off after.

[Frank818]

Depends if RI is smart or not in testing the wipers for registration (I hope for you they aren't, Metal).
Here they test 2 wiper speeds, which need to be something like 15 or 25 cycles a minute apart from each other, they check it wipes off at least 80% of what they call the "viewable angle" (scientific calcs here) and they make sure the fluid sprays fine. In that case, I don't think a clip on is enough, cuz it needs to work properly.

But anyway in my case I am far ahead of time so I guess FFR will have come up with a solution by then. :)

Metal do you know how they certify yours?
Might wanna answer that on your build thread, though.

[RM1SepEx]

As I have a wagon donor, I used the firewall seat belt mounting point. With them mounted on the inside of the cockpit they hit my seat. I swap left and right and mounted them to the engine side of the firewall same as Erik. They worked great.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24077&d=1386531551

between your comment and Erik's picture (thanks Erik!) it looks like the wagon ones would be a much better soln.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

between your comment and Erik's picture (thanks Erik!) it looks like the wagon ones would be a much better soln.

FYI on seat belts. I believe the difference between wagon and sedan rear seat belts is the internal locking mechanism. If the mechanism isn't in the right orientation, the belt locks. If you mount you sedan belts at the firewall location. the belt wont release.

Another FYI. The front seat belts have a device in them that was connected to the air bag system. If that has gone off. They do not unlock.
Bob

[Erik W. Treves]

list is getting shorter... I got a little side tracked..my fuel sender stopped working and a puddle of oil appeared under the car all of a sudden...I left the jack under the car and it appears the oil came from that cause as far as I can tell the motor and frame are dry....but spent a while looking around.


1) Carpet the floors - rest of the carpet is done
2) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
3) set cross weights
4) install door panels - getting covered
5) Get registered - in process

Hope to get it back on the ground tomorrow and weigh it!

[Erik W. Treves]

Well I set the cross weights...I was wondering what all my mods cost me in weight.. F/R Hinges, ABS, Stereo, Wiper and fluid (1/2 full), Full Carpet, Bonded rear deck, custom AWIC with twin heat exchangers, paint...on and on...

here it is before I sat in it (Full sweats and after breakfast :D ) and did the cross weights with 8 gallons of gas

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24250&d=1387131762

here it is with me in it and cross weight set

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24251&d=1387131763

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24252&d=1387131764

still on the list

1) Spray bed liner in all the wheel wells...and coat the exposed fiber glass.
2) install door panels - getting covered
3) Get registered - in process

[Frank818]

Less weight on the rear right when you're in it.

So basically a 2000lbs car, 907kgs.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Interesting that the RR did not change at all with you in the car. Also that with driver the front % only changed by .2-.3% while the rear split pretty nearly flip-flopped. Almost 2,100# is a little heavier than I might have expected and within 100 pounds of my roadster (2,182 on Wayne's scales with a half tank of fuel).

Jeff

[Erik W. Treves]

The first time I measured the car the front sway bar was hooked up... It is heavier than I thought as well.. But all those little things I did added up I guess.

[Erik W. Treves]

So I sit here on Saturday and for the first time in 6 months I am not working on my 818...nothing really to do but wait for the tags and for temperature to warm up a little....so with some time on my hands I decided to take a look back on the whole deal....I had to get some pictures together for my VIN number inspection anyway...so while I was there I figured....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS7d3RkMmwo&feature=youtu.be

[Racebrewer]

Next step is to start getting weight off.

Aluminum pieces where possible, light battery, aftermarket mirrors, flywheel, Wilwood brakes, etc, etc. My experience with fiberglass is that it will get a bit lighter as time goes by as resin outgasses.

[Frank818]

6 months every day? So 6 months minus 3 weeks fizzling around with the bug in the TEC ECU which turned out TEC sent you a new ECU, that means if you do it in 180 days (and it's not over), I wonder how long it will take me or Xusia or any people trying for the first time.

[Erik W. Treves]

I didn't work on it every day. Just weekends mainly..

[Frank818]

Oh! Sorry I misunderstood the "first time in 6 months", was related to "Saturday" only. :)
Good to know!! loll

[Erik W. Treves]

Oh! Sorry I misunderstood the "first time in 6 months", was related to "Saturday" only. :)
Good to know!! loll

no but the weekend has Saturday AND Sunday in it :) .. never said Saturday only ;) or Holidays....

[skullandbones]

Great video, Erik. I've heard people suggest that the 818 is easier to build than the roadster. From what I have observed on the various build threads is that there are tedious pieces to the puzzle. Maybe that will smooth out with all the feed back to FFR and experience from the first builders. It does look like the "body work" would be more flexible with the multiple panels. I don't know if it is easier or just different. Thought you might have a better perspective after also building a roadster.

Thanks,

WEK.

[Erik W. Treves]

I honestly think it is easier....but there are more pieces...the cobra you lay the entire body down and you're done...the 818..each panel has to be placed and spaced...for the most part the engineering and design in the frame makes it easier to put together...there is also a lot more aluminum. The Subaru stuff is like Legos which makes upgrading easier....but like you said, it's just different...if you subtract the body panels, I would say the 818 is easier...now that I have done it once and we have a few more builders to ask...in the end I think we will find the 818 is easier to build and easier to make into a real performance car... I am already planning on my next build after a few miles on this one...ebay here we come....and yes...my next one will be another 818 if that says anything....

[shinn497]

I think that the 818 seems harder because it is new. The builds out right now are really beta builds with lots of kinks. Is there even a manual out yet? also a lot of the builders are pretty advanced and are making a lot of mods. This is why I'm not sad that I have to wait for the kit. I'm definitely not surprised that the internals are easier. This is their 5th or 6th kit so they've had a lot of time to perfect the art of making these easy to build.

[metalmaker12]

I have helped build a few roadsters and now the 818. I think there pretty equal overall. If you minus all the tweaks you have to make because of FFR short falls and the fabrication of our own parts than the 818 is a snap. Overall it is not too hard to build, just aggrivating at times due to its lack of revisions and the fact that we had to make our own stuff.

[Erik W. Treves]

SO I went out to wipe off the car to get ready for my first ride on the street next week and discovered that I had forgotten to put the plate light on and the bracket...so I played around with the bracket and decided not to use it...then I thought, since I have a bolt in the center of the rear spoiler...why not make that a light...so I think I came out ok...also played around with some decals. The little chrome nub is the led light...it has since been painted a graphite color.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24545&d=1387748076

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24544&d=1387748075

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24543&d=1387748074

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24542&d=1387748073

[FFR-ADV]

Wow Erik!

That looks great! Hope you can share the details of what you did with the spoiler?

Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year

[wallace18]

Looks really great! I like the light. The colors look great too!

[RM1SepEx]

The CF looks good on the spoiler, where did you put the seams and were you able to get them lined up?

[metalmaker12]

I like the light, it all looks good man!! Can't wait to get there to, I am like a good 1-2 months out at best.

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks for the great feedback! As far as the spoiler went...I prep'd it for paint and actually painted it do it was ultra smooth. I used 3M's 4D vinyl..I think it is new for this year. I saw it at SEMA. It has internal air tubes in it so you don't get bubbles in it. I tried to do it all in one piece (twice)...no way...so this is what I did...

Starting from the front edge , in the middle I started wrapping it then worked it up the front face. Once I got it to the top I took some heat and went over the top and sides and about 1/4 down the back side. The critical area to have smooth is the first 1/16 of an inch as you roll over the back. Next I started on the bottom center of the back face and worked my way up the back and over lapped the front piece at the rear radius and slightly beyond about another 1/16. So now with a fresh razor between my thumb and pointer finger I used the rear edge as a guide, thumb on the back side of the spoiler and pointer finger on the top rear edge. You have to press pretty hard to get through both layers. Halfway through swap out the blade cause it will dull out. Anyway, once you have gone along the rear edge you can safely peel away the excess from the rear piece. Then peel back the back piece top edge and remove the piece "overlap". It will be stuck to the spoiler still since the vinyl sticks more to the fiberglass than to itself. Now apply LOW heat and lay the back piece back down. Can you see the seem? If you get RIGHT down on it you can but since it's on the natural break and the CF pattern has lines in it, it does a great job of hiding the cut. I was a little worried about the edge lifting at speed in the rain so I put one coat of touch-up paint clear on the seam, let that dry over night and then cleared the whole thing in a light coat of VALSPAR CLEAR...caution...only one coat of clear, two at most....after that you seem to lose the CF look.

I am pretty happy with the look to be quite honest. I wish the whole thing was real CF, but, for $35 bucks and 1.5 hours...I LIKE IT!

two install tips when working with wrap

1. MAKE SURE YOUR HANDS A REALLY CLEAN!
2. The vinyl will scratch pretty easy so make sure you use a silicone scraper when you're smoothing the vinyl...the BONDO plastic ones scratch!

hope that helps...I'll keep you guys posted on how well it holds up...for now did I mention ....I LIKE IT!

[Aloha818]

Eric, great job on the car and all the extra effort in custom pieces/ideas for all of us to try and compete with.

No amount of compliments makes up for all the time and effort, thanks again for sharing.

[Frank818]

I used 3M's 4D vinyl..I think it is new for this year. I saw it at SEMA.

That's is correct, the 4D stuff is new stuff from 2013.


2. The vinyl will scratch pretty easy so make sure you use a silicone scraper when you're smoothing the vinyl...the BONDO plastic ones scratch!

You can use a felt edge squeegee.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/felt-squeegee

[RM1SepEx]

How does the 3M 4D stuff look when compared to the FFR carbon fiber bits?

[tony chiles]

Very well done, five stars, very tastful.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Erik,

This was the first 'time lapse' build video I've been able to watch! Really looking forward to hearing how you like it on the street.

Steve

[Erik W. Treves]

Well the inspector showed up today.....Presents after Christmas are cool

it's officially a "CAR".... off to go get temp tags so I can go for a real ride!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24714&d=1388070517

[Aloha818]

Congratulations! What a great Christmas present.

Can't wait to hear about your "real ride".

[longislandwrx]

Awesome. What a great milestone.

[Erik W. Treves]

well...victory of sorts..put about 5-6 miles on the car today...it was cold! But funny how a good smile warms you right up! The car is really quick and handles great and brakes are very good (no ABS yet) ... I seem to have an oil leak somewhere above the right header...which smokes pretty good after I stop...will need to address that...of more concern...my rebuilt tranny (2nd time through now)...while it will go in all gears..on decel it will pop out of 4th..if you hold pressure on it, it's fine....the Subi dealer mechanic is coming over on Saturday to look at it. Kinda pissed, but at least I am finding all these little things now while it's too cold to really play with it....in the cold 45* it's breaking to tires loose in second pretty easy.

Daughter takes her new ride out...and dad takes his out

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24718&d=1388087105

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24716&d=1388087103

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24717&d=1388087104

Come drive 6 minutes with me!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cprVoB-Yokk&feature=youtu.be

[Mechie3]

Very cool! Can't wait till I can drive mine.

Oil leak might be the valve cover gasket. They're known to leak if not put together perfectly with silicone in the right places.

[Erik W. Treves]

yeah..tracking the valve cover leak. My first donor had that...I put a ton of silicone (Honda bond) on it...took my time...it's almost looking like it is coming out of the cam gear seal....which would not be fun....good news..I just went out and there isn't a drop on the ground....so..who knows.....

[AZPete]

Cool. Cool. Thanks, Erik, for the video. And, . . . as you've heard may times . . . thanks for leading the way and setting the bar so high. Now I'm headed back to the garage with your revving sounds in my head.
Pete

[metalmaker12]

I had some on my headers, it was from when I did the oil change, it was sitting in a vally on top of the head and dripped down on them and smokey the bear was asking questions. Turned out to be no leak

[metalmaker12]

Btw, sickkk broski

[FFR-ADV]

Hi Erik,

Thank you for posting the detail on the spolier 3M 4D wrap!

Congratulations on getting your 818 plated. Well done!

Happy New Year!

[shinn497]

When I get mine (in 10 years the way my finances are going), the plan is to get a leather jacket and just treat it like a motor cycle. Probably as fast as one :D.

[wallace18]

Congrats. You did a great job with the car.

[Frank818]

Awesome! First one legally out! :)
I must admit it seems so easy to get a car registered in your place, I wish it'd be the same here but hey that's life.

Is that yellow grass I am seeing there? :)

[Frank818]

2 more things Erik.

- The suspension (ride) seems quite harsh on your smooth-looking roads, is it just the camera making it look that way?
- How's that K-Tuned shifter feeling? :)

[Wayne Presley]

Erik's car has the R shocks on it and is firmer than the street car and the camera was on the deck lid.

[RM1SepEx]

Awesome! First one legally out! :)


nope... Check out GRM, I've seen photos of their car on the street

[Frank818]

nope... Check out GRM, I've seen photos of their car on the street

You're right, post #222 of the GRM build thread, I guess I didn't see the pix cuz from work most of them are blocked. Well sorry then, 2nd one on the street, probably? :) Wasn't a race anyway!

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

I do believe this is the first one on the street with PAINT! With all the great work that Erik has done we have to give him an award. I think he should get the "First on the street with paint" award.

[Erik W. Treves]

nope... Check out GRM, I've seen photos of their car on the street

this is true, but last I knew it still had a "transport" tag on it...they may have gotten an official tag since.

[Erik W. Treves]

I do believe this is the first one on the street with PAINT! With all the great work that Erik has done we have to give him an award. I think he should get the "First on the street with paint" award.

no award needed....being able to drive it legally for the first time the day after Christmas was good enough...now if you want to fix my tranny for me....you will not get any arguments out of me :)

[Erik W. Treves]

Erik's car has the R shocks on it and is firmer than the street car and the camera was on the deck lid.

It is firm but not harsh at all...also the camera had one extra extension on it so the mount point to camera was longer than it needed to be. this may have caused it to bounce as well...it sure does handle good though...very responsive turn in!

[metalmaker12]

I also have the r shocks, seems ok to me, not harsh even over moderate bumps. It sure does handle very nicely with tones of throttle response, it really feels much like a 600 street bike but with 4 wheels.

[FFR-ADV]

Hi Erik,

I can almost make out a date of manufacure year 03. Does Alabama let you use the donor for setting year of mfg? If so that saves alot of tax!

Thank you for taking us along on your first ride! I really enjoyed that.

Happy New Year!

[Erik W. Treves]

In Alabama it is titled off the MSO...so 2013...and the price of the kit yielded me $435 in tax...but you'd be amazed as how little I cared about that at the time..."just give me the tag!"

[FFR-ADV]

Congratulations!

Your car is beautiful and personally my 818 build is benefitting from you, Wayne and Metalmaker and others trail blazing.

Thanks & Happy New Year!

[Erik W. Treves]

well the Subi mechanic came over last night and the shift detents where in great shape...so it appears I have to take the tranny out for the 2nd time and get him to look through it again...we think since we used BA gear set in an AA case without changing the shift forks there maybe a slight difference in the forks, or one of the shift forks has damage that we haven't seen yet...pretty frustrating to say the least....at least I can document pulling the tranny out of a completed car now..did not want to be the first there :D Shouldn't be bad though. This is the part about using donor parts that I hate! anyway, this will also finally give me an opportunity to look at the oil leak, which has now produced a puddle of oil..I was hopeful that after 2 days everything was clean....but since my luck has been pretty consistent thus far....hopefully it is the valve cover and not the cam gear seal...any bets that it is the cam gear seal....lol....

[Erik W. Treves]

Tranny back out..started at 9:30 -finished with everything by 11:30...to include fixing my oil leak....I think!... valve covers were all loose! I guess you have to retighten them after a heat cycle.....

[Canadian818]

Tranny back out..started at 9:30 -finished with everything by 11:30...to include fixing my oil leak....I think!... valve covers were all loose! I guess you have to retighten them after a heat cycle.....

At least the oil leak was an easy fix. Lets hope its the same for the transmission so we can get more videos!

[Erik W. Treves]

You bet! We're off for solo 2 for a month and a half.. I am planning on more videos!

[Erik W. Treves]

Well...... Test Flight #2 Complete!

It was drizzling cold rain....but with the tranny rebuilt with new shifter forks, wideband O2 sensor hooked up and valve cover leak fixed (I hope)....I had to try it out again :D

Only drove for about 5 minutes since I really started to enjoy myself and the roads were pretty slick.hee hee hee..insert devil laugh here....

The windshield wiper works GREAT...

The tranny held up fine and shifted great...no more popping out of gear.

THe thing I noticed the most this time...as cold as it was....there was not a lot of wind in the cockpit...so I was quite comfortable at 45-50 mph in 28* weather....I had a sweatshirt with hoodie up....my bet is this thing is going to be quite warm in the summer...between the windshield coming so far back and the high back seats...there seems to be very little movement of air through the cockpit....good for the rain and the cold though!

The steering is very direct and snappy.. you turn the wheel and it goes that way right now! very low effort...at speed and moving around at low speed...I didn't do anything to the donor rack but bolt it in.

I wish it was a little nicer out...I would love to really get on it.. as it was 2nd gear was spinning pretty good under boost... still a lot of shaking out to do...I seem to have a fiberglass "scrapy noise" every now and again from somewhere when going over bumps...something is touching or moving somewhere...but it is not repeatable and the bottom of the car is clean and unmarked..other than the front splitter that scrapes coming out of the driveway....it will eventually stop :D

I need to go get some more gas! Wayne's tune is great...car fires right up and runs down the road nice...I will probably mess with it a little with the wideband..just so it dialed in to my engine...we didn't really play with all the settings in it cause I was in a rush...and he knows I always mess with it anyway.. (touch and break)...:D

anyway..I will get some more video and comments as I get a chance to get out there and play with it...the fact that I am legal with a plate makes all the difference in the world now!! I think I have about 10 miles in the car now! I think it is going to very well at Solo 2 this year!

[wallace18]

Cool deal! I hope to get mine to paint next week.

[Frank818]

Test Flight #2 Complete!

You said you never planed on jumping the car, you changed mind? :)


The windshield wiper works GREAT...

How about rain on the body? Where do you think it channels out (or in)?


my bet is this thing is going to be quite warm in the summer...

So maybe ventilation system may help push in some air in the cockpit in the summer.


there seems to be very little movement of air through the cockpit....good for the rain and the cold though!

And aerodynamics!! :)


The steering is very direct and snappy.. you turn the wheel and it goes that way right now! very low effort...at speed and moving around at low speed...I didn't do anything to the donor rack but bolt it in.

Did you remove the seal to depower it? Sorry I can't really find the method you used to depower the s/w (Xusia has a nice "manual" on his thread about the 2 methods).


Overall, I am happy to see it becomes better and better with time! Keep up the good pace.

[Canadian818]

Eric didn't remove the seal, just looped the lines like Wayne did in the GRM video. Correct me if I'm wrong Eric.

[Erik W. Treves]

I didn't even loop the lines yet..but that wont effect the performance in any event...so you are correct.

[Erik W. Treves]

Well....as my luck with this tranny continues.....rrrrr.....rinse wash repeat...I went to go start it to work on the COLD tune...14* in Alabama...really.... and crunch, crunch, crunch in the tranny...goes away with the clutch pedal depressed...man-o-man....I am not a happy man! At least it is too cold to enjoy the car and it didn't happen miles from the house... oh well...nothing I can do about it but get it fixed...only my time I guess is wasted...my patients though is running a little thin....I'll see if I can pull it less than 53 minutes though :D

[07FIREBLADE]

Omg this is killing me to read I hope the best to you though. Hopefully my tranny guy does it right the first time.

[papajon1000]

Loved the video.

Do you think the throw out bearing may be causing the latest noise?

What fluid are you running in the transmission? The Subaru 5 speeds seem to be pretty picky

[bbjones121]

Really sorry to hear.
For everyone else, if you haven't mentioned this already Erik, most used WRX trannys will probably have been abused. The genre of people who drive them are typically of a younger vintage. There have already been several failures reported. I think third is a weak link for quite a few donor years, maybe some WRX expert could chime in...

Maybe this had nothing to do with abuse, but there are upgrade gear options out there. Flatirons tuning here in Colorado has several options for fitting Legacy GT gears if you need them.

[Erik W. Treves]

yeah.,..kinda disappointed...ok REALLY disappointed...I'll get there...I can only laugh at this point. This will be the time though...I will have to do something else if this happens one more time. The only good part is it really isn't a ton of work to do this in the 818. Comes out pretty darn easy....I just want it done right and at least the guy I am working with wants it done right as well..I think it's the fact that we have parts from several different transmissions...oh well...

[Frank818]

That really sucks Erik.
If you sprint it out of there, make sure you don't break something by doing it too fast. :)

[bbjones121]

Did you get the Tranquil snout kit? TSK1, 2, or3 (depends on tranny)

[Erik W. Treves]

I am using and have only used Subi tranny fluid. It was highly recommended. Yeah, I understand these tranny's get beat on and they ARE prone to failure. I'm going to stick with it for now...at some point I may decide ad go a totally different route, but so far it's all under warrantee...so I am only out my initial cost and my time.

[Erik W. Treves]

Did you get the Tranquil snout kit? TSK1, 2, or3 (depends on tranny)

nope... didn't get that. I have seen several snouts and none were damaged...the early T-5 trannys had this problem..I have not seen this issue raised until now.

[bbjones121]

Great that it is under warranty. Seems to work well for me is a 3 qrt redline synthetic and top off with the blue redline lightweight shockproof oil. Lots of subaru guys are seem to be running a mix with great luck in smoothing out shifting. Might be good with the type of remote shifter the 818 has?

I would think you can easily inspect the snout of the tranny in the 818, so if it starts to whine or looks grooved, you can always put the tranquil kit on then. Just if the snout goes it will take the tranny case with it.

[papajon1000]

I used the TSK 3 kit on my legacy. From what I know the legacies/outback trannys were more common for needing the tsk snout kits.

I gave up on subaru transmission fluid. I ran motul and redline lightweight shock proof with much success. But I think every subaru transmission responds differently to fluid

[Erik W. Treves]

Great that it is under warranty. Seems to work well for me is a 3 qrt redline synthetic and top off with the blue redline lightweight shockproof oil. Lots of subaru guys are seem to be running a mix with great luck in smoothing out shifting. Might be good with the type of remote shifter the 818 has?

I would think you can easily inspect the snout of the tranny in the 818, so if it starts to whine or looks grooved, you can always put the tranquil kit on then. Just if the snout goes it will take the tranny case with it.

funny you mention that, because this gear set came out a tranny that the throwout bearing had actually sheared the snout right off.... I have less than 5 miles on this tranny so I don't think the oil type really had any impact here :D

[bbjones121]

Yeah oil definitely didn't cause issue. I wish you the best of luck. I am sure it will work out. Sorry you had to go through all the problems now. Hey though...it should only be smoother seas ahead. :)

[metalmaker12]

Erik, you gotta match all the parts with the case for success with theses damn things. If you have all the recommend parts per tranny code you should be all set. Are you guys replacing everything or just certain parts. I have had issues with just replacing certain parts in the 5 spd. I either just leave them be or rebuild the whole thing, but at that cost the 6 is the answer. I got luckey with my tranny cause it was spotless inside and had very little wear on the inside.

If it's popping out, that is 9/10 the forks as you mentioned, if it's grinding, well as you know that could be a world of issues.

[Erik W. Treves]

As luck would have it....I have today off and it's Sunny and clear in Huntsville today...upper 50's!!! Got the tranny back in for the 4th time, did some clean up stuff on the car, and gave it a good vacuum and wipe down....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25363&d=1390248416

TO this point I have about 5 miles on it with 4 transmission pulls....so I thought today since the tranny appears to be working great....I would give myself a 50 mile good shakedown fun run! well I did 55 miles!! all is good and the car is back in the garage!!!

The ONLY thing I messed up is that the trip counter resets after I shut the car down...guess I screwed up ONE wire....I can live with that I think for now. I am still waiting on my door panels to come back from the upholstery shop...

Stopped at few places and took some pics

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25368&d=1390249743

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25365&d=1390248419

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25366&d=1390248419

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25367&d=1390248421

Also below, I attached a 5 minute video of the 2hour trip I took...in it I do highway merging, highway cruising, stop by the Subaru dealer, and also you can see some steering input response...you can see it is pretty direct (it is toward to the end)... Acceleration continues to be quick and the tires stand no chance in 2nd gear given the temp today. The blowoff valve is now in the annoying column and will have to be changed if I continue to drive it through the summer. Anyway...here is the video...I think it's a little boring..I only really hammer it once or twice, but it I think what you do see is that you can drive around very normal like as well...you can even hear the stereo in the video.... anyway enjoy the vid....I got so excited that now I am exhausted, so I am off to grab a beer and take a nap!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgLSKGHMaCM&feature=youtu.be

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanx Erik!

BTW, I agree RE: blowoff valve.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Erik W. Treves]

yeah Jeff, I think I am going to run a Recirculation from TurboXS and just get rid of that noise all together.

[bbjones121]

I just have stock BOV with cold air intake on my legacy. It produces just the right amount of swoosh.

[metalmaker12]

Nice Erik, I am glad all is working correctly and you have a big smile on your face

[Goldwing]

Your car looks great Erik. Congratulations. Thanks for the detailed report on ride, steering, and braking. You know we were all wondering.

[bbjones121]

awesome job Erik. I can't wait to see your door panels.

[Erik W. Treves]

awesome job Erik. I can't wait to see your door panels.

ha! me either!!!!!

[Aloha818]

Great job on remove/reinstall the trans so quick, been missing the updates!

There have been lots of the typical negative posts by other 818 builders about BO parts, welds, powder coating, misaligned tabs, body panels, shipping, problem parts, etc. But that is all inconsequential if the finished product can be amazing. Was this project worth your effort, best project you ever started, pick another build/vendor next time, can't wait to sell this one to build another 818?

So since your the first "typical" 818 builder that has gotten this far, at least that has posted, can you post more info? I mean your a test pilot right? So we in the 818 family need answers:D

1) Turning radius, offset rack issue, bump steer? any feedback, observations?

2) Power available, your build "278 hp, 265 tq, ej205, vf52 turbo" plenty of power? Too much power, can't use it all? First mod, add more power?

3) Braking power, before abs, good without abs, first up on the completion list.

4) Dual intercooler radiators, I know it's cool there, but any comment?

5) Tire rub, you are pushing the limits, resolved? Wished you would have bought recommended? Need to see how to fit bigger tires?

6) Body flex? All convertibles have body flex, how well is the frame engineered?, none, a little?, need to add more bracing?

7) Sense of balance, mid engine design. Big question. I'm sure most people have not driven a mid engine car, how does the balance feel? With your size tires and horsepower does it feel like you need to keep the rear end from coming around? Well planted? Front end loose? General feeling?

8) Public perception. Obviously you have a beautiful car, also in a unique color. Your trip today consisted of some stops where there had to be car guys around. General feedback, comments, etc.

Sorry to put you on the spot, but being your the first, a car guy, and a test pilot, you have to have the ability to articulate your experience for the rest of us humble followers!

Thanks in advance, can't wait to see what your doing with your door panels.

[adubbelde]

Eric, the car is beautiful! Looks like there's WAY to much traffic there. A car like that needs a place with open roads and twisties. I'm retiring in the Black Hills of South Dakota. One could have a car like that and drive it year round. I was there this weekend and the motorcycles and runners were all over. Lots of twisties as well as some open road.

[Tdelta1]

Sorry I'm Late but the black rear spoiler is much nicer looking than the body color.

[Mitch Wright]

Congratulations Erik, the car looks fantastic.

[ehansen007]

Awesome. Nice work.

[Kurk818]

Looks awesome. Your build is a great motivator!

[Dan Babb]

Car looks great....PSHHHHHH
Looks like and handles well and it sounds great...PSHHHHHHHHH
I"m sure the young tuner crowd would like it, but you gotta ditch that blowoff valve as soon as you can....PSHHHHHHH

[Erik W. Treves]

Lol... PSHHHH. .. I can't totally understand what you mean... Hee hee. Called Wayne and new bov is on the way!

[Erik W. Treves]

Great job on remove/reinstall the trans so quick, been missing the updates!

There have been lots of the typical negative posts by other 818 builders about BO parts, welds, powder coating, misaligned tabs, body panels, shipping, problem parts, etc. But that is all inconsequential if the finished product can be amazing. Was this project worth your effort, best project you ever started, pick another build/vendor next time, can't wait to sell this one to build another 818?

So since your the first "typical" 818 builder that has gotten this far, at least that has posted, can you post more info? I mean your a test pilot right? So we in the 818 family need answers:D

1) Turning radius, offset rack issue, bump steer? any feedback, observations?

2) Power available, your build "278 hp, 265 tq, ej205, vf52 turbo" plenty of power? Too much power, can't use it all? First mod, add more power?

3) Braking power, before abs, good without abs, first up on the completion list.

4) Dual intercooler radiators, I know it's cool there, but any comment?

5) Tire rub, you are pushing the limits, resolved? Wished you would have bought recommended? Need to see how to fit bigger tires?

6) Body flex? All convertibles have body flex, how well is the frame engineered?, none, a little?, need to add more bracing?

7) Sense of balance, mid engine design. Big question. I'm sure most people have not driven a mid engine car, how does the balance feel? With your size tires and horsepower does it feel like you need to keep the rear end from coming around? Well planted? Front end loose? General feeling?

8) Public perception. Obviously you have a beautiful car, also in a unique color. Your trip today consisted of some stops where there had to be car guys around. General feedback, comments, etc.

Sorry to put you on the spot, but being your the first, a car guy, and a test pilot, you have to have the ability to articulate your experience for the rest of us humble followers!

Thanks in advance, can't wait to see what your doing with your door panels.

Well, I am not sure being a Test Pilot really helps here....while I can give you detailed feedback... As a Test Pilot we fly a profile based on a design and compare that performance against a specification. If the flight fails to meet the specification then we use our systems knowledge to understand any shortcomings. In this case I do not have any specifications to compare or test to. What I have are my OPINIONS...keeping that in mind I can address some of your questions.

Again just my opinion here on what I have observed thus far.

1) Turning radius, offset rack issue, bump steer? any feedback, observations?

yes...turning radius is a little less than the WRX since my front tire size causes me to rub the frame prior to full lock, but I can still turn around and an extra 3-point turn is not a big deal....

offset rack issue....?? not sure what that means. There is no bump steer that I was able to detect. The feedback for the depowered rack (unmodified) is perfect...I know people have taken these apart for several reasons and removed some internal seal or whatever...my opinion...if you're bored then go for it...in real life you will not know the difference. I would put the steering input response on par or even better than my manual flaming river rack in the cobra... MY OPINION.


2) Power available, your build "278 hp, 265 tq, ej205, vf52 turbo" plenty of power? Too much power, can't use it all? First mod, add more power?

Power is PLENTY. But that is relative to the user! I can use it all...but not in all gears...more power...nope...if I want more I will jump in the Cobra. ...MY OPINION.


3) Braking power, before abs, good without abs, first up on the completion list.

Braking is fine. I still have not hooked up the 12 volts to turn on the ABS module. I can lock up the fronts before the rears and I have the prop valve wide open right now...I am going to add some more aggressive pads to see if I can get some more bite. THe brake pedal feel is on the harder side compared to my cobra (also with manual brakes), but I am only at 50 miles so we'll see. The brake package came off the donor was slightly modified (rotors and pads) so there is an unknown there. I will put some Porterfields on and see how it feels then...not a big deal though for now...I have plenty of brake!

4) Dual intercooler radiators, I know it's cool there, but any comment?

It's cool! ... would I do it again....hmm...sure...I think Wayne's solution of one big one in the middle is both efficient and easy to install...drop in and go...


5) Tire rub, you are pushing the limits, resolved? Wished you would have bought recommended? Need to see how to fit bigger tires?

THe tire rub up front is an issue as described in the turning radius section. If I had to do over again with 18's in front I would go 215/40/18 up front instead of the 235's, in back the 265's are fine with either the VCP trailing arms or spacer and longer studs.... the tire rub up front caused me to raise the front ride height about 1/2 inch over stock..here is a picture of the rub at the top of the fender.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25404&d=1390346996

6) Body flex? All convertibles have body flex, how well is the frame engineered?, none, a little?, need to add more bracing?

What body flex...this thing is STIFF.. this is a non-event.

7) Sense of balance, mid engine design. Big question. I'm sure most people have not driven a mid engine car, how does the balance feel? With your size tires and horsepower does it feel like you need to keep the rear end from coming around? Well planted? Front end loose? General feeling?

the car feels well balanced and in complete harmony with the road...as far as balance when pushed to the limit...in this configuration...I don't know yet...I don't do that on the street...AutoX event is the first week in Feb...we'll see then.

8) Public perception. Obviously you have a beautiful car, also in a unique color. Your trip today consisted of some stops where there had to be car guys around. General feedback, comments, etc.

everybody loved it...lots of waves and thumbs up.... In the Roadster community we have to face the "is it real question".....In the 818 community we will have to deal with "what is it?"... When you say well it's a 818...you get no feedback...just an "oh?"....will have to work on that...


As far as your opening "There have been lots of the typical negative posts by other 818 builders about BO parts, welds, powder coating, misaligned tabs, body panels, shipping, problem parts, etc. But that is all inconsequential if the finished product can be amazing. Was this project worth your effort, best project you ever started, pick another build/vendor next time, can't wait to sell this one to build another 818?"

Negative posts about BO, welds powder coating, bla, bla bla.... well I offer my opinion about this...like complaining about parts that are backorder that are on step 3,454 and the builder is on like step 20...if it's on BO or laying in a stack not going right on the car, what is the difference?? MY OPINION... I know rude to some I'm sure. Is the car PC perfect, did stuff get damaged in shipment, and are there other issues...sure...but for 10k...really? Who cares! have you SEEN Wayne's Car? or even mine...believe me the 2% of the powder coat you can see and the weld slag under the PC...will be of no concern or even a foot note at the end... MY OPINION.

Was this project worth my effort...I guess it depend on how YOU measure that...to me .... HELL YES! Did I build it for 15k....NOPE...did you see how it came out? lol Still smiling and you can't put a dollar amount on that type of return in investment!!

Is it my best...I think every time I finish one it is my "best"... practice makes perfect! and I like to practice...this is my 5th Kit Car and 4th Factory Five! I do want to SELL this one so I build another...but that's me and my habit!...will it be another vendor ....NOPE! Factory Five again for sure!!! unless I decide to build a SLC... but that is a 6 figure car.....so for now smiles to $$$$.$$.... Factory Five in MY OPINION is it.

Again, this all MY OPINION and I have owned some sort of Factory Five product since early 1999. Through that time I met great people, grew a lot as a person and mechanic, and met people who I now consider family members. Dave Smith has a great company and I love the product he/they bring to us. Is it perfect in the eyes of all..maybe not...but find me 1 product that is? My new house, F-150 and IS350 all have their issue and I paid WAY more for those...for half the fun I can have in my FFR :D

Off my soap box... I mean this with all the respect I can give in a thread. While most this comes out rude on the computer I am sure...I am not trying to be..just my "directness" taking over.

Let me leave with this...I stole this from the other forum.... and believe me when I say this in respect to any "problems" you might be having....

"All the problems will go away with a twist of the key"

When I was driving down the highway at 80 in MY 818....you can bet the last thing I was thinking about was that scratch in the powder coat or the steering bracket that not quite right and I had to modify it.....I was to busy smiling and thinking about if I should do a burn out....lol...

anyway..keep the questions coming~!


"All the problems will go away with a twist of the key"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25405&d=1390349803

[EODTech87]

Where is the burn out video?

[Goldwing]

Thank you for your more detailed review. Thank you even more for the perspective. Having just received my kit with some truck damage, a missing box, missing items marked as present, etc, it seemed like a lot at once. Nothing to leave me burned, but a little water on the fire so to speak. Just as I'm getting over all that, I read your write up. Just reinforcing my decision to let it go, and just treat it all as a challenge. Thanks. :)

[Aloha818]

Erik, fantastic answer to my "Review Request"!!!

Anyone who has kept up with your build now has a way to compare your build choices to real world experience.

There seems to be lots of negative comments lately in regards to seemingly small issues, although everyone should know that all is not perfect, to manage expectations. But your answer perfectly summarizes that the end result is very much worth the effort. Thanks, the balance has now been restored!

So what is the answer to "what is it"? No matter the name, no one would know it, YET. To say it is a "kit car" is a disservice.

[Erik W. Treves]

Hey..no problem :D

Yeah, to say it is a KIT CAR ... is just not the way I feel...it is more than that! I worked my tail off to put as much OE into the car..and the finish is there...so I will have to come up with something else...

For now it's 17* this morning....rrrrrr....not 818 to work this morning....Wayne sent me the BOV and it will be here Thursday...so I can remove that other one this weekend!

keep the question coming..I will answer if I can.. happy building!!!

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Great write up Erik! Thanks for sharing your opinions (direct and to the point - but IMO not rude).

[Frank818]

Great review!

[longislandwrx]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to write that.

[Mechie3]

did stuff get damaged in shipment, and are there other issues...sure...but for 10k...really? Who cares! have you SEEN Wayne's Car? or even mine...


The only thing I disagree with is this part. We have seen your car and Wayne's and they did come out quite well, and no one denies that, but you guys painted. I can't afford a $6k paint job (rather, don't want to spend that much) and don't have any paint supplies, experience, or a booth to use. We all know it can be made to look good, but the question is at what cost? If FFR had said "$10k, body work required, paint recommended" I'd be 100% satisfied. Since they said "$10k, no paint, and it'll still look great!" I'm still satisfied overall, but a little disappointed in the body since it wasn't as advertised. They did send me gel coat to make it right so that helps a lot. I'm now able to sand out imperfections and the rough edges without worrying about immediately adding $3k to my budget for paint.

It's like going to harbor freight. If you buy a tool for $14, you know ahead of time there's a good chance it'll break, but you sign up for that risk ahead of time. If a more legitimate tool maker says "here's a tool for $20, it won't break since it has our name on it" you'd be disappointed when it breaks since it wasn't as advertised. The only difference is the up front expectation as set by the manufacturers advertisement.


Was this project worth my effort...I guess it depend on how YOU measure that...to me .... HELL YES! Did I build it for 15k....NOPE...did you see how it came out?

I agree with this. I'm not even done yet and it's still been worth all the effort. If I do it again (unlikely in the short term, I'm not made of money and don't have another car to wreck, lol) I would adjust my expectations a little, but would still do it.


Yeah, to say it is a KIT CAR ... is just not the way I feel...it is more than that! I worked my tail off to put as much OE into the car..and the finish is there...so I will have to come up with something else...

Kit car seems to almost have negative connotations. Like people first imagine a stretched fiero lamborghini. haha! I just tell people "it's a factory five!".

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Erik for your "EXPERIENCED" point of view. You may not even realize how valuable that is to some of us rookies. Thanks You.

By the way, you need a always hot wire going to pin B8 on the center cluster connector to get the trip odometer memory working.
2545725458

[Goldwing]

Hmmm. Ya "kit car", while convenient to say and effectively communicates what we're up to, there is something in me that cringes every time I have used that short phrase. Agreed. Need something better. A plaque that reads "Final Assembly Point:<insert hometown here>" might be needed somewhere too, lol.

[Xusia]

In the computer world, something you build yourself is typically referred to as "custom." I think that applies here. "It's a custom car. I built it myself." Is what I plan to say.

[ehansen007]

You can tell by Erik's posts that he's been around the block with FFR as has Mike Everson, Wayne Presley, and myself. So, I'd like to chime in on the issues. We all wanted these cars so bad and we know it. As such, we are the betas. As a beta, take pride as being one of the first and instead of griping (and I'm not saying anyone is griping but I've been guilty of it) first, talk to FFR and let them know what's happening. You'll be helping the next builder when they correct it! Remember, even FRR has only built two or three and FFR is not a big time manufacturer (and we should be glad they are not because it keeps it affordable!)

And Guys, let me tell you that there's no better sense of pride (in the automotive world) than driving around something that you built with your own hands that looks and handles like these do. Like all challenges in life, you won't forget all the little BS issues along the way but instead you look back and take stock in the fact that you overcame them. And once you're done you'll be wanting to build another one. Because that's the fun...climbing that mountain and having people look up at it and say "Damn, you climbed that mountain?...I could never do that!" And, as Dave says, they don't sell cars or even kits, they sell experiences. So, have a beer and enjoy the build as just that; an experience and not a quest for perfection.... at least not on the first one. ;)

[VD2021]

Erik,
Outstanding and well done. I really like the pic of it in front of the auto parts store:cool:.
This summer should be an extremely enjoyable one for you.

Component car, Custom Build, Hand Built Custom are terms I like to use.

[Scargo]

You said that your 278 WHP was adequate (you could use it all <in higher gears>).
At 2,310 pounds (the most I could weight in ST2), I could only be at 270 WHP. I used the NASA calculator and I hope I am correct.
This is why I am considering ST1. I am currently about five seconds off the WGI lap record for ST2 in my STI. I would assume the 818 is going to handle better, be easier to drive and be more fun to drive at that level than my STI. John George said it could stand some additional power for their WGI setup.
In the end, I am not out to win races. I may not even race...(beyond TTs) I just don't want to drive anything slower than what I already have.
What do you guys think?

[Frank818]

Tnx ehansen007 (aka ??).

[Erik W. Treves]

Some finishing touches :D how cool is this!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25580&d=1390522486

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25581&d=1390522487

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25582&d=1390522489

[wleehendrick]

Some finishing touches :D how cool is this!

Very cool!

Did you custom cut, trim and embroider? If you used an online vendor, mind sharing who?

[Mechie3]

Pretty slick!

[Frank818]

Now that's pretty nice. We all want to know the trick. Real deal or photoshop? lolll

[tmoretta]

Great color. Is it FFR Sherwin Williams? Also, did you pre-fit body panels and then disassemble for painting? And what about the windshield frame?

[Canadian818]

Great color. Is it FFR Sherwin Williams? Also, did you pre-fit body panels and then disassemble for painting? And what about the windshield frame?

The answers to all those questions are in this build thread.

[tmoretta]

I have back-read about 6 pages of this thread, and can't find the info.

[Wayne Presley]

It's Ford toreador red off the explorer and trucks.

[Erik W. Treves]

Color code U6 candy red metallic.. Chromabase $1100 a gallon for just the color :-$.. Paint seems to have gotten expensive. .. Lol

[ehansen007]

You could sell a ton of those mats. BTW, are you still fighting with the door panels? :)

[Erik W. Treves]

Yes I know. .. Still waiting on the door panels. Now they say Saturday... We'll see.

[Erik W. Treves]

Fixed my trip counter...I had a switched 12volts hooked up where I needed constant....all is well :D

[jimgood]

$1100 a gallon for just the color
Seriously? I had no idea.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Seriously? I had no idea.

Reds have always been expensive.

Jeff

[Wayne Presley]

Some of the bright yellows are expensive too.

[Erik W. Treves]

you can paint it with NASON brand for about 1/2 that...BUT....you get what you pay for

[DARKPT]

Hmmm, two 818's on the road in Alabama now. Time for a race, methinks! Maybe the infield course at Talladega?

[Wayne Presley]

Nah, at the Talladega Gran Prix track :-) www.tgprace.com

[ClemsonS197]

Nah, at the Talladega Gran Prix track :-) www.tgprace.com

They going to ever repave that place? It's horrid on tires.

[Erik W. Treves]

I already know how this ends.. Me in my car.. Wayne is faster. Wayne in my car... Wayne wins.. Lol

[metalmaker12]

1100 is a bit expensive but hell it looks sick so who cares. On a side note I can get SW top grade pearls for 800 a gallon, and spices for like 1,000.

Hey in a race you could pull it off, I mean you fly choppers!!

[wleehendrick]

Reds have always been expensive.


Some of the bright yellows are expensive too.

Are we talking about paint, or women? ;)

[flynntuna]

^ Ha Ha haven't met one yet that isn't :rolleyes:

[Erik W. Treves]

New BOV came in and it is supposed to be in the low 60's today and sunny....no time to lose...

added a connection point to the intake

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25798&d=1391278366

installed the BOV and used some radiator hose to make the connection...need to get it done out of aluminum..but this will work for now.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25799&d=1391278368

the new BOV is easily 75% more quiet..which is very nice. You still get some sound when you really are getting on it, but I can deal with that...

did some "beating" on the car today...

0-60 of the GTECH was 6.1, but you can see in the video I wasn't even close to hooking in this cool temp. I had to find a bridge that was concrete to launch from and even then spinning pretty hard. I have a test loop I use that has some good corners on it so I figured I'd get after it a little....the tires seem to touching still under compression..but in a different spot...I think...I need to take a look...I was going to delay on the 215's but I might need to bite the bullet and get some. we'll see what needs clearanced...for normal driving it's fine...but who wants to drive this thing normal... The turn that it rubbed in the video is a sharp 90 that has a depression in the turn...It really loads the suspension :D ... I am getting the long videos I took cut down...did some more highway stuff too...even went to Walmart to get Gas..ha ha ha


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJfaH8qnNhs&feature=youtu.be

[shinn497]

What kind of tires are you running?

[metalmaker12]

I hear ya, cool video. Getting it to grip is tuff in anything below 70. I had it grip pretty good in the mid 70's before it got cold here, I set it at 19psi- 21psi in the rear. I saw 6 sec range mostly until it he temps got warmer back in oct, than it gripped much better and I saw low 4's. I think with like 80-90 my tires ( Yokohama s drives) will real soften and it will break 4's, but only time will tell. Good stuff bro. I have a g tech I will set up also once I start to put it back together. I have the front end off and installing all my front wells (I Bedlinered both sides, looks good). I am final triming the winshield surround and going to prime and spray it satin black. Etc etc.

Thanks for all the input so far and I am glad we have help inspire others.

[Greg G]

Please tell me if my observation is correct...but it appears in the video that once the boost comes on, it does so nearly instantly and the tires simply cannot handle the rapid increase of power. Now, I readily admit I have little experience with turbo cars, but is there a way to make the boost come in more progressively and over a little longer period of time? I don't know how this might effect drivability, etc, but it would suggest a more manageable car and more fun overall.

Even though it does nothing for acceleration (or tire life), seeing your car blow the tires off in THREE GEARS is damned impressive and a 10+ on the Cool Scale :)

[Erik W. Treves]

If you look at the dyno sheet back in the thread the boost comes up to peak in about 1500 RPM, it does ramp pretty quick..but at 2600 RPM to 4800RPM I only gain 129 Ft/TQ.. not too fast in my opinion. It really is that it is so cool out, new tires, cold tires and cold road....You can get progressive boost controllers $$$$... my ECU will actually do that function as well (you can tune boost level per RPM), but I would need to hook up the electronic boost controller....having said that, the Subaru forums tend to give the OEM boost controller low marks...I think once it warms up outside, the smiles will get even bigger... The one thing that you should note is how controllable the car is as I am slamming through the gears...if this was the cobra and I stayed in it, I would end up in the trees...it has a Torsen T2 diff in it but is live axle....The 818 is very forgiving with OBX diff in it.

[Greg G]

The one thing that you should note is how controllable the car is as I am slamming through the gears....

Very true, that thing was dead straight. It definitely looked like an E-ticket ride!!

Personally, I loved how the camera couldn't hold its mount and fell back, added the perfect emphasis to the enjoyment!

[Scargo]

Exciting. :pI have same hat; very grease-stained.
This has 3:90 gears, correct? Could have 3:70 or 3.454? Thoughts on that...
Did I perceive some wheel hop? Ride is (relatively) how firm? Which shock/spring setup? Tires are what size now?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Thanks for the ride E! Much better on the BOV. Yeah, you'll need a warm day with sunny skies to be able to push it.

Cheers,
Jeff

[Xusia]

Turbo ignorance. You connected the BOV from what to what?

[Erik W. Treves]

25817

the outlet of the turbo side to the cold air intake on the turbo inlet side.

[icky]

Nice! Finally someone gets a car on the road with a camera. Patiently waiting for more.

[Erik W. Treves]

well..I took both front wheels off today and both front shocks and disconnected the sway bar and I THINK I might have found where the rubbing was coming from. I moved both sides through what I think full travel is and lock to lock....I am hopeful that I wont need to buy new tires for the front...I think the combination of the +45 offset and the wide tires is just too much. I think +45 with 215 and +40 with 235's maybe better...maybe.... we'll see ... course it's raining now...lol...so maybe tomorrow on the way into work :D

[metalmaker12]

Good luck bro, I think you will get it to work!!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

well..I took both front wheels off today and both front shocks and disconnected the sway bar and I THINK I might have found where the rubbing was coming from. I moved both sides through what I think full travel is and lock to lock....I am hopeful that I wont need to buy new tires for the front...I think the combination of the +45 offset and the wide tires is just too much. I think +45 with 215 and +40 with 235's maybe better...maybe.... we'll see ... course it's raining now...lol...so maybe tomorrow on the way into work :D

Hey Erik
thanks for the video,
Just want to verify. Your fronts are 235/40/18 on +45 rim correct?
Where are they hitting at and at what steering angle?
Thanks
Bob

[Frank818]

Traction. That's always the problem. :)

[Erik W. Treves]

Hey Erik
thanks for the video,
Just want to verify. Your fronts are 235/40/18 on +45 rim correct?
Where are they hitting at and at what steering angle?
Thanks
Bob

Bob,

they did hit going straight at the top of the fender...fixed, and now it looks like it was hitting at the nose and fender lip where it bolts together and , sway bar hitting right rim on left turn and sway bar hitting left upright in right turn if you hit a bump...I think I got it all clearanced now though....the 235/40/18's and the +45 just gives you no room...you have to have everything perfect....we'll see.

[Speedy G]

Eric, first of all, congrats on your awesome ride. I'm probably 2 years a way with more than a few hurdles in the way.

Just in case you want, you can get rid of the BOV noise if the non-presurized side dumps the pressure into a hose, and not a hard pipe.

Just to clarify. Your traction issues were with 265/18 rear tires and a 3.9 final ratio on the LSD diff with only 265RWTQ? I really didn't expect an 818 to break loose that easily, especially with those tires! Other than racelogic (or higher temps), any idea on how to get more grip?

[Erik W. Treves]

yes 3.9 with LSD...if I put another 1000 lbs back in the car it should hook up just fine :D ...once it warms up it should be much better!!

[jimgood]

Eric, try launching in second gear at about 2000 rpm.

[Frank818]

Eric, try launching in second gear at about 2000 rpm.

Drop clutch? Or normal launch?

[Erik W. Treves]

You never want to shock the tires like that unless you are TRYING to do a burn out...it's not DROP the clutch, or a normal launch...it's a little of both...that's why it's HARD to do.

[jimgood]

Normal launch, meaning let the clutch slip a little. And 2000 rpm might be a tad low. It might fall on it's face so if that doesn't work, try 2500. The idea is to get the car rolling while it's building power.

[metalmaker12]

I launched in 1st to get it to roll out spinning and rpms around 3500 and than I shift to second and rpms go near 2500 and it grips and goes. I saw mid 4's in the 60's and low 4's in the 70's

[Erik W. Treves]

last pieces..after 1.5 months of missed dead lines....>>> I am Graduated!!!!...... DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will probable get some black screws for the panels....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25981&d=1391893992

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25980&d=1391893991

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25979&d=1391893990

[Bob_n_Cincy]

last pieces..after 1.5 months of missed dead lines....>>> I am Graduated!!!!...... DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will probable get some black screws for the panels....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25979&d=1391893990

Looks great Erik.
don't grab the door handle to low, It might smash your pinkie.
congratulations!
Bob

[wallace18]

Nice job with the door panels. I am still debating what to do with mine.

[flynntuna]

Congrats, and thanks for sharing your build with us. Those door panels look like they are begging for flip out door pockets.

[AZPete]

Thanks Erik for showing us mortals how an 818 should be built. I only hope you don't abandon us now that you've graduated your 818, but stick around to help all of us following.
No, no, don't leave me out here in the cold with no way home!!

[Scargo]

Nice. Now some in-car videos of people gawking?

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Nice. Now some in-car videos of people gawking?

I second that!

[Frank818]

Erik, do you have any cable stoppers along with your K-Tuned shifter? I can't figure out how that works.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMuVSUqdbdQ

8mins08s

I know it's not the same shifter, maybe that's why.

[Wayne Presley]

Frank, you won't need cable stops on your VW trans

[Frank818]

Tnx Wayne, that proves I don't know much about linkages. :)

But are you and is Erik using stoppers with the Subaru's tranny?

[BrandonDrums]

Please tell me if my observation is correct...but it appears in the video that once the boost comes on, it does so nearly instantly and the tires simply cannot handle the rapid increase of power. Now, I readily admit I have little experience with turbo cars, but is there a way to make the boost come in more progressively and over a little longer period of time? I don't know how this might effect drivability, etc, but it would suggest a more manageable car and more fun overall.

Even though it does nothing for acceleration (or tire life), seeing your car blow the tires off in THREE GEARS is damned impressive and a 10+ on the Cool Scale :)

The OEM Subaru ECU allows for full mapping of the target boost levels and max wastegate duty cycle based on throttle. The STI ECU's are a little nicer and allow for Boost target and wastegate duty cycle limits based on throttle AND current gear which allows you to optimize the boost to get as close to target in the lower gears without overshooting boost in higher gears where the engine undergoes more load. The stock Electronic Boost Control Solenoid is a two port bleed type setup that simply bleeds off boost signal from the wastegate actuator which makes it very difficult to tune a turbo to reach max boost early without causing massive spikes in higher gears. A common upgrade that helps with this is to switch to a 3 port ECBS which fully interrupts the boost signal going to the wastegate actuator allowing for quicker response and better control. It can fully be controlled by the stock ECU and actually can be had for not much money.

In the 818 I'd argue that tuning the turbo to gradually build boost through the RPM range would be best but smaller turbos run out of steam in the higher end of the revband and if you're trying to hit 18+psi at 7k rpm using a stock TD04 turbo you'll HAVE to maximize spool lower in the rev-band to hit your targets up top in the lower RPM's. The smaller turbos will always taper from peak boost after 5000-5500rpm or so. You can always modulate the throttle more to deal with the boost spikes but that's actually basically the same thing as dialing back the boost onset on a smaller turbo. Limiting the turbo's speed down low means a smaller cliff for boost to fall from up top.

So, Changing out the boost controller AND going with a larger turbo will probably work a lot better for the 818 IMO. You'll actually make more torque nearly across the board but because the torque comes on gradually and predictably and doesn't rely on the turbo's speed lower in the RPM range, you can better modulate the throttle without sacrificing as much boost up top when you get to redline and WOT pulls will be more linear anyway.

Of this is just in the lower gears though where spoolup is a challenge. Flat out in higher gears and turbo performance is simply a function of the VE of the engine and the efficiency and flow-rates of the turbo for the most part.

Anyway, I'd check out a 3 port EBCS, you can even run it in parallel with a MBC allowing you to control peak boost with the MBC and more easily taper RPM dependent and Partial Throttle boost using the EBCS http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36729366

To the OP Nice build! I look forward to seeing how you tweak the car since you're able to drive it now.

[JeromeS13]

I'm working on finishing up the front aluminum pieces and I've run into a few snags. I'm not seeing this piece that blocks off the opening for the sway bar. Erik, was this a piece that you made? Or was it in the kit?




http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20777&d=1376775568




I also have two right side, forward splash guards. I'll call them Monday about that one.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/20140215_155156_zpsronov2xb.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/20140215_155156_zpsronov2xb.jpg.html)

[Erik W. Treves]

When I got my kit the nose aluminum was still in the draft and had no provisions for sway bar....so I took what they gave me ad made it work. The kits after mine and Wayne's have new nose aluminum. I think what you have is correct.