And it begins..."The Flash" Build Thread

[bromikl]

That's awesome.

He's the kinda guy who will probably finish his build a month after he gets it too...

:)


I dunno. We still don't know what Frank's previous record for completing big projects without a time constraint. If this is his first, could be he hasn't learned the skill of working on it (for at least five minutes) every day.

This is my first, and my record isn't so good. I'm concerned the 818 could be one more DNF on my record. If I pull the trigger, I'm the kind of person who has to work on it 10 hours every day 'till it's finished. Otherwise, it has a very good chance of becoming one more partially completed kit for sale.

[rori]

I just looked at my invoice from Enkei and they are 18x8's on the front.

Thank you!

[Frank818]

I'm an Enkei dealer, Erik bought his Raijins from me, rori asked what size so I looked at my invoice to provide a correct answer. What's not to get?

Ah I'm sorry I didn't know that, I understand better now.

[bstuke]

To answer the wheel question a different way, we are all erring on the safe side, IE more offset verses less. You can easily fix too much offset, but you can't fix not enough. Most of us go to ARP studs, which gives us the ability to move the wheel out 5-20mm with spacers, and even more with wheel spacer kits. Let's give Erik a chance to determine exactly what the number or range is for offset..

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks Bob... with amount of "fire storm" that gets started with pictures and comments...like my windshield or Wayne "scary" seat placement..I have decided to pick very carefully, what I post and ensure that all the info is posted in each post since some people don't read through the whole thread.... anyway...

You're right...MORE offset to start...The open house had 18's in the rear of the track car and the Enkei Raijins 18x9.5 in 5x100 are only offered in +45 offset...so no secret there... The 5x100 bolt pattern really negates the discussion of what your wheel specs are in the 9.5 width...unless you planning on spending $$$$ on some custom wheels...

To that end...I have put some 3 inch ARP studs in the rear hub (thanks Bob) and will work on which spacers are needed based on my tire width (no don't ask :p)....we'll have to wait until I get there cause the car is back in the air for the remainder of the build.

For those wondering...I did the stud exchange with the hubs mounted... make sure you take the ABS sensor out and the bolts securing the ABS tone ring before you go at it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19506&d=1373200314

[bstuke]

From a street perspective, some people don't like the longer studs sticking out. OK by me, but when you space the wheel out, they don't stick out as much anyway.

I found an awesome thread over in NASIOC that walks you through changing out the studs without pressing out the hub. Pretty cool stuff, glad it worked well Erik!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1694965

From a race perspective, they will last twice as long, around 100-125 wheel changes than the stock studs.

While I am at it, it certainly looks like the ebrake setup for the 818 is much more easy and simple than the Roadster?

[Erik W. Treves]

Bob they won't be sticking out when I am done. I will cut to fit like I did with my first cobra

[C.Plavan]

Looks good Erik. Can you comment on the "Hardware/Fasteners" that are included in the kit. Does it allow you to use all new bolts/nuts, or do you still need to use a lot from the donor?

[Erik W. Treves]

Nothing keeps you from replacing old bolts with new bolts...Any of the bolts that attached the donor parts to the donor car are reused, though some of mine I had to cut off, so I replaced tem with OEM parts..I did manage to lose one donor suspension bolt that I needed to replace as well...who knows.....the parts of the suspension that FFR supplies to adapt donor parts to the 818 are new... so the bolts on the lower trailing arm are stock...the bolts on the upper trailing are new as is the adjustable control rod.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks. I planned on replacing all the hardware. I just wasn't sure what was included.

[07FIREBLADE]

Erik can you comment on the sway bar links fir the drint LCAs. Do we reuse the stock ones or are there new ones supplied with the kit. Only reason why im asking is because I have one missing and another broken one.

On another note your car is coming along quite nicely. Waiting patiently to see the end result...

[Erik W. Treves]

The links are supplied with the kit

[07FIREBLADE]

Cool just wanted to make sure. Now I get to return the ones I bought.

[Canadian818]

Thanks Bob... with amount of "fire storm" that gets started with pictures and comments...like my windshield or Wayne "scary" seat placement..I have decided to pick very carefully, what I post and ensure that all the info is posted in each post since some people don't read through the whole thread.... anyway...

That's a shame. But thank you for still contributing.

[Erik W. Treves]

A little backwards and forwards this weekend...Started brake lines, coolant lines, got some more of the wiring done as well as installed the rest of the aluminum in the mid-nose area so I could install the Brake Master and Clutch Master for good...got the front (WRX rear) sway bar put in its place, still waiting on the securing brackets...FYI the 02-03 brackets are different than the 04+ ... I lost one and ordered another and it was different...I hope to have the right one tomorrow..

Anyway, not much to look at...but here it is... a ton of work at this point trying to verify the manual and build sequence that makes sense... I also had to repaint 3 panels because of all the rain and humidity...good news is the epoxy paint is pretty hard stuff...bad news is...it is pretty hard stuff..lol...so stripping the paint was tons of fun

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19528&d=1373246567

[JeromeS13]

I couldn't find it, did you post what type of epoxy that you're using? Do they make a matte or less shiny version?

Thanks!

[Mechie3]

Is that large booster removed from the brake MC? Hard to tell with all the black. What epoxy paint are you using? Can't remember if you've mentioned that before. My kit is due in 2 weeks, so I'll be grateful for any updates, fixes, and improvement you and Wayne come up with.

Edit: I took too long. Someone else asked the epoxy question too.

[Erik W. Treves]

Is that large booster removed from the brake MC?

not sure what you mean...

They can tint epoxy in many colors...best to get with the paint store and see what they have...additionally you can sand the shinny and shoot with a matte clear if you want...lots of ways to crack that nut...powder coat was my first choice but with unknown mods and issue that might come up during an initial build it was just easier to paint since I don't have a powder coat machine...

[Mechie3]

http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y422/bnorth84/IMG_1558.jpg (http://s1274.photobucket.com/user/bnorth84/media/IMG_1558.jpg.html)

The black piece on the right is the brake booster. Does this get removed during the install?

[Erik W. Treves]

you trash the booster part, keep the master...you need to keep the gold "u" bracket at the end of the brake rod ( the part that goes around the brake pedal.

[NicksPapaw]

Thanks for this ongoing thread update Erik. You are making this so easy for the builders coming behind you. All they will have to do is follow your thread. Keep up the great work. I am really enjoying following your progress.

[Erik W. Treves]

Well, back on track today... I finished a pretty big modification over the weekend so back to normal stuff...

Sorry for the mess around the car, forgot to blow off the metal flakes and wipe down before the pic...

Started to get the brake lines run...all I have left is to make the connections to the soft hoses in the back and run the fronts (I'll run the fronts and clutch tomorrow after work)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19552&d=1373336803

Finally got my sway bar brackets figured out...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19553&d=1373336804

Here's the other side

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19554&d=1373336806

I am choosing to leave this piece of aluminum out for now since so much stuff goes down this of the car ..I am predrilled/painted and ready to install as soon as I get the coolant line run....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19556&d=1373336809

nice easy access this way

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19555&d=1373336808

[RM1SepEx]

Eric, are you using a 1 inch rivet spacing everywhere?

[Erik W. Treves]

no 1.5 and 2.0 inch...it is really more work for the look I am going for...the strength is in the silicon used to hold the panels...the rivets really just hold the panel in place until the glue dries..on the interior panels I am 2.0+ placing cause you won't see the rivets after the carpet goes in.

[Mechie3]

I assume all of the rivet holes in the panels and the frame are drilled yourself? Does FFR provide any suggestions as to the spacing?

[ATOLightning]

I assume all of the rivet holes in the panels and the frame are drilled yourself? Does FFR provide any suggestions as to the spacing?

With the MK4 that I'm working on, FFR provided a simple "rivet spacer" with two different spacings...one for aluminum panel to aluminum panel and a second for aluminum panel to frame.

And when I say "rivet spacer," I mean thin aluminum metal strip with holes drilled in it for a guide. Nothin fancy, but it gets the job done.

[mofpa01]

I assume all of the rivet holes in the panels and the frame are drilled yourself? Does FFR provide any suggestions as to the spacing?

From the Factory Five Hot Rod Manual "In most cases we use a 3” rivet spacing when mounting aluminum panels to the chassis and a 2” spacing when mounting panel to panel. The rivet spacing tool has this hole spacing marked. The distance from the edge of the tool to the holes is correct to center the rivets on the ¾” tubes."

As far as silicone being a bonding agent, I was taught that it was a relatively poor one. In my boating days, the general rule was that silicone was good for sealing only. If one wanted a adhesive sealant to use 3M 4200 (for items that you may was to disassemble later) or for a permanent bond 3M 5200. I thought the purpose of the silicone on the Factory Five kits was mostly for sealing the gaps between adjoining aluminum panels and reducing squeaks and rattles.

[Erik W. Treves]

You have to drill ALL the holes...

The "rivet spacing tool" was not provided in the 818 Kit, I had my own... Not sure about the chemical properties or technical aspects of silcone and I don't want this thread to get down that hole...but I have taken my fair share of FFR's apart to upgrade or repair and when it comes to drilling the rivets out and having to pull panels off, you have to be careful not to destroy (bend/distort/crease) the panel as you pull it off because it is so well bonded to the frame...

back on topic...

hope to have the clutch line run tonight and hopefully dive into getting some power into the gauge pod....looking to get the motor singing!!!

[RM1SepEx]

You are correct, the rivets hold the panels to the tubes making a strong structure. The silicone seals and eliminates squeaks. If you use a real adhesive it could carry the load and a few rivets could be used to hold it together tightly to ensure a good bond. 3 inches sounds reasonable, I used 2 inches on my 1 in sq tube and .050 Al structure reverse trike

[metalmaker12]

Eric, you are also retaining the abs, any particular reason?

[Erik W. Treves]

it's free

[Mechie3]

it's free

I once said something like that to my friend. His response was "a dog poop sandwhich is free too, do you want that as well?". lol.

[Wayne Presley]

Look at it this way, why wouldn't you want ABS on your car? Now if you can put it on your car for free, why wouldn't you? Now if Erik and my test of the system doesn't work out, we install 2 T fittings and drive on. Next subject....

[Mechie3]

My ABS pump was damaged in the wreck, or I'd consider it. It'd be nice to let you know when you've hit the limit instead of trying to listen to tires and steering feel only.

[apexanimal]

I assume that the abs still functions just as well with manual brakes?

[Erik W. Treves]

My ABS pump was damaged in the wreck, or I'd consider it. It'd be nice to let you know when you've hit the limit instead of trying to listen to tires and steering feel only.

I have an extra one :D .. course I don't know why you would want it....:p

[Erik W. Treves]

I assume that the abs still functions just as well with manual brakes?

that's what we are trying to figure out!

[Mechie3]

I have an extra one :D .. course I don't know why you would want it....:p

My dog poop comment wasn't meant towads ABS. It just reminded me of something my friend said. If anything it was asking for more input on specifically why you like ABS vs not for general information. I'm not one of those "I need zero driver aids because I'm a superior driver" type of people. I actually like paddle shifters myself.

[wleehendrick]

I actually like paddle shifters myself.

19590? 19591

Just kidding... if the ABS works on the 818, I'll include it on my build, and consider adding the RaceLogic traction control, because I know I'm not Michael Schumacher.

I'm anxiously waiting to see what else Erik and Wayne have in store for us!


P.S. A couple days after my wife ordered her 135i, the manager at BMW of San Diego called to double check that she really wanted a manual, even though we went over it ad nauseum with the salesman. It's just inconceivable to most people these days why we would choose a stick over an auto or manumatic (and yes, we drove the dual clutch tranny). For the most part, these are the people who don't 'get' the concept of the 818 any way.

[Wayne Presley]

I actually like paddle shifters myself.

They sure were nice on the SLS...

[metalmaker12]

Wayne, I was just wondering why have abs considering FFR did not do so and you tested the car without. Just wondeting if you think it needs abs? It certainly can not hurt and should work great. I personally like no abs, power etc in a grassroots performance car, but I have not driven it, so you should have a better opinion. Moved on lol

Erik, looking good, I like the black with the red or orange rivets, looks killer.

[Frank818]

19590? 19591

Actually he loves it in the new Ferrari F12! :)

[ehansen007]

E, Wayne, don't you just love the new youthful exuberance (thank you spell check) this new car has brought to the forums! LOL. I love it. I'd like to consider myself somewhere in the middle and yes I am a superior driver and do not need ABS....I'll have you know I once took my car over 100MPH! SAY WHAT!!!!!!!! HAha! Kidding everyone! Kidding!!

Hey you guys wanted to be the first and you've been true gents thus far!!! Except Wayne of course... :) BTW crimping wires sucks. Solder my friend. Solder. (Inside Joke)

[metros]

Is there an advantage to running steel brake lines instead of just using custom length stainless steel flexible brake lines all the way to the caliper? Other than cost savings?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey you guys wanted to be the first and you've been true gents thus far!!! Except Wayne of course... :) BTW crimping wires sucks. Solder my friend. Solder. (Inside Joke)

Eric, When is your birthday, I'll send you a proper crimp tool, proper lugs, and heat shrink kit.
The stuff you get at radio shack or home depot is crap.
I've seen race team DNF because of a bad crimp.
Bob

[Wayne Presley]

E, Wayne, don't you just love the new youthful exuberance (thank you spell check) this new car has brought to the forums! LOL. I love it. I'd like to consider myself somewhere in the middle and yes I am a superior driver and do not need ABS....I'll have you know I once took my car over 100MPH! SAY WHAT!!!!!!!! HAha! Kidding everyone! Kidding!!

Hey you guys wanted to be the first and you've been true gents thus far!!! Except Wayne of course... :) BTW crimping wires sucks. Solder my friend. Solder. (Inside Joke)

Hahahaha, you just wish you had thought bringing your own crimpers to Car Warriors like I did. Crimping on vibrating objects is superior to soldering ever time.


Is there an advantage to running steel brake lines instead of just using custom length stainless steel flexible brake lines all the way to the caliper? Other than cost savings?

They are smaller, flex way less and waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper.


Eric, When is your birthday, I'll send you a proper crimp tool, proper lugs, and heat shrink kit.
The stuff you get at radio shack or home depot is crap.
I've seen race team DNF because of a bad crimp.
Bob

Bad crimps come from poor crimpers or untrained crimper operators. I have handed a 14 ga wire with a properly done butt connector to many a non believer and asked them to pull it apart by hand, so far none have succeeded.



Wayne, I was just wondering why have abs considering FFR did not do so and you tested the car without. Just wondeting if you think it needs abs? It certainly can not hurt and should work great. I personally like no abs, power etc in a grassroots performance car, but I have not driven it, so you should have a better opinion.

I like the ABS in my racecar, especially in the wet. I like the ABS on my street cars so I'm going to see how it works in the 818. The brake balance in the R & S were great but great balance with ABS is better.

[Erik W. Treves]

Slow night tonight...only finished up installing the front brake lines, still have the clutch line to run...called it an early night at 1 hour of work...took the gauge pod into the house to start finding all the wires I need to hook up...tomorrow is a bust cause I have Hockey Practice after work..I need a day away from it while I wait for some more parts to come in...hopefully....Have all of Friday off..so hopefully some more pics by then..

[JeromeS13]

Hahahaha, you just wish you had thought bringing your own crimpers to Car Warriors like I did.


You were on Car Warriors???

[Wayne Presley]

You were on Car Warriors???

Yes, Erik, Eric H and I were on Car Warriors building the 33 Hot Rod



East coast winning car team - Mark Dougherty, Erik Treves, Tony Zullo, Justin V, Mark Stackler (Stack), and myself

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/Car%20Warrior/Image00072.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/Car%20Warrior/Image00072.jpg.html)
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/Car%20Warrior/Image00049.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/Car%20Warrior/Image00049.jpg.html)
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/Car%20Warrior/Image00062.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/Car%20Warrior/Image00062.jpg.html)




West Coast loser car team - Langly K, John, fur top, Jeff Miller, Tom and Eric Hansen

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/Car%20Warrior/Image00099.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/Car%20Warrior/Image00099.jpg.html)

[Erik W. Treves]

That was a great time!!!

[Mechie3]

Celebrities!

I don't have cable anymore and haven't heard of this show, so I'm assuming car warriors is a cable only program.

[Erik W. Treves]

Speed Tv

[Mark Dougherty]

and for those who have still not seen the East Coast clean house.
Here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcdFelKKjb0

[Erik W. Treves]

I was punching out the wheel studs out of the rear hubs the other day and it made me remember about doing the same thing with you on the show...I was like...the last time I did this was when we were BEATING the west coast team...lol...good fun....

[stack]

HAHA good times.

stack

[Silvertop]

and for those who have still not seen the East Coast clean house.
Here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcdFelKKjb0

Although I have Speed Channel, I managed to miss this production when it was aired. I just watched it now. Great fun, glad you won.......... Both cars looked great. Thanks so much for posting the show here!:)

[Samiam1017]

This episode is what brought me to the 818. I saw the 33 and thought that's what I want to build and starting looking at factory fives website. And the design contest was in the final stages on there and that was it I had to have the 818. So I guess a 33 will be my next project then.

[metalmaker12]

Man I would love to build a 818 on there east vs west. I loved the episode, when it came out, very cool, kudos to you guys

[ehansen007]

and for those who have still not seen the East Coast clean house.
Here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcdFelKKjb0

Alright, that's it! Let's sort this "cleaning house" thing right here and now. As I recall, as far as the build goes, and I quote (I'm even holding up air quotes as I type this) "it was a tie." WTF Jessie you game show hack? "But one car drove a little better and handled a little better" and we all know who did the final inspection and setup. Dougherty, as I remember you saying you had to go to different alignment shops and because it took them so long they didn't even align our car? :) I sense a cover up of epic proportions here! It's out, it's out! Let's call it Hot Rod-Gate! LOL. It was obvious Dan Ruth was working for you guys and trying to undermine us at every turn. You don't even have to go to the tape for that! Speaking of tape I'm putting one together and sending it to channel 7 right now.

P.S.- our faulty engine stand got you the double quad too. but who's counting....I am! Ha ha! Go to the tape!

Double P.S. that paint job got you the win and it was well deserved. :)

[Mechie3]

Haters gonna hate. ;) hahaha

I'll have to watch the east coast beat down later. Thanks for the link.

[ehansen007]

Aw I'm just playin and they know it. I hug em all when I see em'. Even Wayne! :cool: I met some great people on that show and will never forget it. Their car was so good that I even bribed Jessie with a night at the strip club and we still lost. Who'd of thought he like male strip clubs?? :) My bad.

[carbon fiber]

I liked the west coast build better myself. they were both nice, and it looked like a lot of fun.

[2006 WRB 818]

That is awesome guys! I was actually hanging out with Jimmy Shine at Sema last year and helping him promote the Sema Action Network (SAN). He is one cool dude.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

and for those who have still not seen the East Coast clean house.
Here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcdFelKKjb0

First time I saw that Mark! Thanks for posting it. If I'd have seen that before I brought you my car, I still would have brought it to you! ;)

[RM1SepEx]

Erik, what came with the kit for seat mounts? sliders? at least for the driver... I hope

[Erik W. Treves]

Mounts only came with the kit...not sure how they go in yet...have not received those parts of the manual yet.

[RM1SepEx]

sliding mounts or fixed?

[Erik W. Treves]

They are the mounts that attach to the stock seat (fixed)

they are at the top of this picture...

19655

[RM1SepEx]

Looks like I'll have to adapt a low profile slider assy. My wife and daughter need to move the seat up quite a bit due to their stature...

[Samiam1017]

I thought that the factory sliders would bolt in? Isn't that why they ask you the year? I guess I should have asked!

[bstuke]

I thought that the factory sliders would bolt in? Isn't that why they ask you the year? I guess I should have asked!I can't imagine that. Generally the cockpit floor pan in most any FFR kit is flat. I know at least the seats in the 06 I have bolt to a somewhat vertical bulkhead.

[RM1SepEx]

I have a slider for Cerullo sports seats that is only about 3/4 inch high that I'll attempt to adapt...

[Wayne Presley]

I thought that the factory sliders would bolt in? Isn't that why they ask you the year? I guess I should have asked!

The brackets supplied fit the stock seats which already have the sliders on them.

[VD2021]

.........Any build updates?............

[Erik W. Treves]

just a little work on the wiring today...trying to adapt a after market main chassis harness into the factory gauge cluster and steering wheel...So the after market harness is all high amp loading, but the Subaru uses low amp/volt controls through relays, so I adapted the donor relay box into the after market harness...took a couple hours...but I have Turn, head light (high/low/park), flash to pass, ABS caution light..have to hook up a few more items, but all in all...electricity is flowing through the 818!.. and just realized I have to fix the fuel door location flag...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19667&d=1373670090

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19668&d=1373670091

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19669&d=1373670093

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19670&d=1373670096

[Mechie3]

Did you mention previously how you did the factory 5 logo? Is it something you make and sell?

[wleehendrick]

looking good...


and just realized I have to fix the fuel door location flag...

That occurred to me too! What did you use for the 'FACTORY 5' on the tach? I ordered some '818' decals from vinzdecals.com for my brake calipers, but didn't see any products suitable for the cluster.

[wildbill]

The "Factory 5" on the tac looks great

[gwader]

Keep it up!!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

Well hooked up the lower radiator hose from front to back, wired up brake lights, dash lights, fuel sender, water temp sender, oil light, tach, and work on one of my mods...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19678&d=1373759853

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19676&d=1373759848

Take note of the water line...it looks like there is a lot of room in the pontoon....there is towards the back , NOT the front, you can see how close it is below..

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19679&d=1373759947

[flynntuna]

Looks like your making a lot of progress. Will the cooling lines be easily serviceable when the body is on?

[wildbill]

The line out of the rad sweeps up and down in quite an arc. Do you think there will be any issues with air locking?

[mindinclouds]

The line out of the rad sweeps up and down in quite an arc. Do you think there will be any issues with air locking?

I was wondering the same thing.

[fateo66]

Erik would you mind taking a measurement for me? With the tranny in netural how much room do you have from the end of the gold shift rod sticking out of the tranny to the end of the frame, or better yet till it hits the body? I want to measure the 6 spd I have in the garage and compare it to a 5 speed to see if we can fit one.

[Erik W. Treves]

I don't have the back panel accessible right now.

[Frank818]

I think the prob may not be physical fitment, but awd to 2wd conversion of the 6sp.

[fateo66]

I don't have the back panel accessible right now.
The body obviously sticks out past the frame, so for now could you get me a measurement to the frame?



I think the prob may not be physical fitment, but awd to 2wd conversion of the 6sp.

Thats not an issue, There are at least two company's that make an AWD to FWD conversion spool for the 6mt. Here is one I posted a year and a half ago


They already exist and are around $400 from what I hear

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6654&d=1323319017


http://www.possumbourne.co.nz/trans_diff_parts.html

[Wayne Presley]

Erik would you mind taking a measurement for me? With the tranny in netural how much room do you have from the end of the gold shift rod sticking out of the tranny to the end of the frame, or better yet till it hits the body? I want to measure the 6 spd I have in the garage and compare it to a 5 speed to see if we can fit one.

The trans shift shaft is within .100" of the body in 2, 4 or reverse

[metros]

That wiring looks like a nightmare. Not looking forward to that part of the build.

Thanks for the pics Erik.

[Frank818]

Ok, I'm impressed! Everywhere I checked including this forum it seemed there were no reliable awd to 2wd conversion kit for the 6mt.

If that works well, then I guess an STI could be a direct donor (depending on the year) and an almost direct (minus the knuckles) donor for the other years.

[Frank818]

Thats not an issue, There are at least two company's that make an AWD to FWD conversion spool for the 6mt. Here is one I posted a year and a half ago

Now at $1000.
http://www.possumbourne.co.nz/trans-and-diff-parts.html

So there is another company doing this?

[metalmaker12]

Yea there are a couple

[BrandonDrums]

Nice thread! Any ETA on gokart?

[Erik W. Treves]

Ok, I'll play...Any ETA on my axles?

Seriously, not in a huge rush by my standards....my 5 meter goal is first start...was hoping to be closer to that goal after this weekend, but my creative juices left the building...so only a little progress this weekend...

I still have quite a bit left before I can drive it...

some major items:

1) Bleed brakes and clutch (waiting on parts from FFR, should be here tomorrow)
2) Wire up EFI
3) Get gas tank installed
4) Shifter....the plastic shifter...well the shiny aluminum looks much nicer
5) Have to figure out the wheel/tire fitment issues (small issue but still)
6) Hook up e-brake
7) Finish the intercooler
8) QA everthing

none of this is really a big deal, but I am trying to be as detailed as I can and provide as much input to FFR and the forum, take pictures and document as much as I can so when I go to sell it I have everything there. Last two weekends at least as much stuff came off the car as went on the car...not what I had in mind.. I been at it so hard I need a few days away from the 818 I think so I can get my thoughts together.

[metalmaker12]

I have learned like you , sometimes when you step away is when you come up with your most unique exciting ideas.

[Frank818]

I have learned like you , sometimes when you step away is when you come up with your most unique exciting ideas.

Or that's when you forget everything that you were working on so you can't remember in which direction was heading your brainstorming at that time and you have to start all over thinking again. :)

[timmy318]

Your and Wayne's build thread are tearing me apart! I really should keep off of the threads instead of constantly updating my spread-sheet of things that are getting added to the 818.... Sleepless nights, parts being added to my sheet...... That's about what my life consists of right now until hopefully Thursday :D!

[Frank818]

@fateo66, are you still looking at physically fitting the 6mt?

[fateo66]

I am, and I think with a few small modifications it will work but I already have a built 5 speed ready to go for my kit so I might wait until I drive the 5mt for a few months before I attempt the swap (Perhaps late fall)

Either way this is Erik's thread so if you or anyone has anymore 6mt questions we should start something new and not hijack.

[thestigwins]

Erik, you still alive? We junkies need our 818 fix and you and wayne are the only dealers in town lol. Any news on the build?

[Erik W. Treves]

I put one Rivnut in this week and mounted my EFI power distrubution block in...decided to take a few days away from it..trying to get the wiring done....

[metalmaker12]

I put one Rivnut in this week and mounted my EFI power distrubution block in...decided to take a few days away from it..trying to get the wiring done....

So Erik, were are your axile shafts, don't they come in the kit bro, happy building

[Erik W. Treves]

Back ordered

[metalmaker12]

That's a pisser,well hopefully they will be coming soon so we can all get the axles

[Wayne Presley]

Axles are a week away

[Erik W. Treves]

there is like 10,000 things that need to happen before I really need them...they would just lay on the floor..not a pisser at all...just roll with it...you all just need to get your head wrapped around back ordered parts...this isn't a FFR or kit car specific phenomena ...parts get back ordered ALL the time...I waited a month for my turbo outlet adapter..finally got it the other day...still laying on the box it came in....just work on something else...

[ehansen007]

That's something I had totally forgotten about and yes backordered parts are part of the kit car building experience. And yes, you just move onto the next thing!

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Those of us who have previously built Factory Five cars know there will be back orders AND you WILL get your parts. You don't have to worry that the manufacturer will close up shop and leave you stranded with a kit you can't complete because of missing parts.

[David Hodgkins]

OK wait, I'm confused. "That's a pisser" is bad, and "That's a wicked pisser" is good?

I'm sorry, I still learning how to speak MA.

:D

[Dave Smith]

There are one million things happening right now, but i can tell you while no plan survives contact, THANKS to Erik and Wayne we've already retro'd some changes in hours not days and the project is waaay ahead of where I thought we'd be. Colby in engineering is building the first production 818R kit right now (for Bob S.), Suppliers are helping tremendously, for example, I met with Jim from KONI yesterday and he came out from Ohio just to check on us and offer any help. KONI is just one of many partners who are closely monitoring the project and providing support where needed (KONI air frieghted 12 sets of shocks ahead of the regular shipment to make sure there were no back-orders). The new laser in invaluable as we've not been slowed down waiting on CNC cut parts/inventory. Despite all of the challenges and priorities, we've been able to maintain a great focus also on our other cars and haven't allowed the excitement of the new product to eclipse the priorities of the current line.

Bottom line is that I dont have time to brag much but am feircely proud of the team and efforts along the project path. I'll TRY and do a better job of communicating the changes and news of the car.

[metalmaker12]

I was not really complaining about back ordered parts and I have built many cars and even some kits, I am no stranger to this stuff.

Nice job to Dave and the crew for getting a lot done and to Wayne and Erik for helping it along.

[Erik W. Treves]

OK wait, I'm confused. "That's a pisser" is bad, and "That's a wicked pisser" is good?

I'm sorry, I still learning how to speak MA.

:D

You still have it wrong.. Wicked pisser is still bad.... Now... WICKED PISSAAH.... is awesome :p

[Mechie3]

All this talk about piss reminds me of Bear Gryllis survival mode.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/beargryllis.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/beargryllis.png.html)

[AZPete]

Backorders can be GOOD! When my roadster kit arrived I told my wife that some parts were backordered and would be delivered later. (True.) Then when boxes of other goodies appeared at the door she assumed they were backorders (i.e, prepaid). "But those boxes are not from Factory Five", she says. I just said FFR sources stuff from other companies. (also true) Twisting the truth is okay if it's for cool parts.

[Frank818]

^^can't agree more!

[Xusia]

Pete, let's hope your wife doesn't read this forum! :)

[THE ITALIAN]

Backorders can be GOOD! When my roadster kit arrived I told my wife that some parts were backordered and would be delivered later. (True.) Then when boxes of other goodies appeared at the door she assumed they were backorders (i.e, prepaid). "But those boxes are not from Factory Five", she says. I just said FFR sources stuff from other companies. (also true) Twisting the truth is okay if it's for cool parts.
HA ! !, I thought I was the only liar around here. I can't count the times I said, "Don't open it, I may have to return it !"
The time she went into the attic and saw my old roadster seats,,"I thought you traded those for those longer ones"... got caught. Now almost every week I find cardboard boxes cut up in the trash from overstock.com and other companies, I have no idea what came in them.

[AZPete]

The Italian: "Now almost every week I find cardboard boxes cut up in the trash from overstock.com and other companies, I have no idea what came in them."
To first-timers: add 50% to 75% to your budget for "spousal revenge spending". :-(

[David Hodgkins]

"spousal revenge spending".

Now there's a term I've never heard before that I can relate to immediately!

:rolleyes:

PS We really need more smileys...

[timmy318]

"spousal revenge spending".

Now there's a term I've never heard before that I can relate to immediately!

:rolleyes:

PS We really need more smileys...

:D!

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

I had to buy my wife a hot tub soon after I got my 'Cobra'. Sometimes she still refers to it as 'her Cobra'!

[ehansen007]

Backorders can be GOOD! When my roadster kit arrived I told my wife that some parts were backordered and would be delivered later. (True.) Then when boxes of other goodies appeared at the door she assumed they were backorders (i.e, prepaid). "But those boxes are not from Factory Five", she says. I just said FFR sources stuff from other companies. (also true) Twisting the truth is okay if it's for cool parts.

You liar.

[THE ITALIAN]

This is like "INTERMISSION" at the movies, waiting for Eric to turn a ratchet - sorry Eric, we are just checking in with nothing to do.
"Venting" would be more like it - How's the car?...........Let's go over to Wayne's thread and hi jack his.......

[Mechie3]

We can hijack Guns818SR thread now too. ;)

[Wayne Presley]

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Keeping a low profile....

[Erik W. Treves]

So if I could bring us back to the build at hand....

Spent most of the day wiring and finalizing all the connections to the EFI, fan, hazards and started getting the wiring all collected together....tomorrow will probably put it down on its wheels (maybe)... and push outside to clean the garage and to move the car over in the garage so we can get the third one in there...this means there are not many parts laying around :D very good news for me anyway... I spoke with Wayne about my mounting method for my intercooler and decided to copy his plan and mount the it to the engine so I don't have to deal with flexing in the hoses as the engine rocks around...now they can rock together... Waiting on one more reducer to have the intercooler completed hooked up.... anyway, over due for some pics...so here are a couple...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19839&d=1374283491

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19838&d=1374283490

[Wayne Presley]

The red really makes the motor look great, I did silver because I hadn't made up my mind on body color... :( Your's looks better

[Erik W. Treves]

Thank you Sir.

I think a hyper Blue color would look really cool as well...I will do that on the next one

[shinn497]

If that is the intercooler, where does it take in outside air? Am I missing something?

[RM1SepEx]

Water...

[THE ITALIAN]

If that is the intercooler, where does it take in outside air? Am I missing something?
Yes, you don't YET see the air filtration coming off the cold side of the TURBO

Looks real good !!

[EricScottZehnder]

@Erik - How closely are you building this 818 to the standard, by the manual example? I realize that a lot of that documentation is being written (with your feedback, I'm sure!). I was just hoping to get an idea for all these extra bits. I doubt I'd have the know-how to identify things to tweak or parts to swap out for reliability or performance. If I see others doing that because they're doing custom work it makes me feel better. If it's standard issue stuff then I REALLY need to take that Build School class when ready. ;)

[shinn497]

No, no I mean air to cool the intercooler, not to feed into the engine. So it is an Air/water setup? I guess I wasn't paying attention.

[Wayne Presley]

No, no I mean air to cool the intercooler, not to feed into the engine. So it is an Air/water setup? I guess I wasn't paying attention.

It's a air to water, water flows in the brass barb fitting and through the core cooling the hot air from the turbo. The warm water goes up front to heat exchanger and then back to the intercooler.

[Frank818]

Is there a reason why the BOV is installed before the AWIC?

In such case when the butterfly closes, the air will flow backwards the pipes and backwards through the AWIC. Then if you lift off and quickly step back on it, wouldn't that cause a certain lag or making it harder for the turbo to push, for a fraction of a second I admit?

I always thought it was preferable to have the BOV as close as possible to the butterfly, but then again, my BOV is 1ft after the turbo and before my AWIC, but that's cuz there was absolutely no way to fit it after the AWIC.

[Wayne Presley]

The BOV purpose is to protect the turbo from compressor surge and damage to the impeller from those harmonics.

[Frank818]

That is correct. And it will as well if it's located after the AWIC. So I was wondering why not take advantage of air flow dynamics and preventing the flow from going backwards through the piping. Just a thought, maybe it does not do much of a difference.

Actually, let me rephrase. :) If anyone would want to locate the BOV between the AWIC and T-body, is there enough room?

[freds]

[QUOTE=Erik W. Treves;106353]With the engine now in and my "breaker bars" resting on the frame, I now have enough leverage to break loose the nut

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19267&d=1372473074

A nuisance post....sorry

One of my Inner CV joints is missing the protection cup on the transmission side. You will not the missing cup on the joint on the right.

19881


If the joints you used to weld your breaker bars onto, are of no further serious use to you Erik, could/would you remove the cup from one and let me have it?



Thanks

fred

[Erik W. Treves]

ahh..yeah let me see if I can get it off without destroying it

[Erik W. Treves]

Well just about done with the wiring...still 3 things to wire in but they should only take moments (hopefully)

wiring from front to back all cleaned up

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19885&d=1374361467

EFI power distribution harness all sealed up

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19884&d=1374361465

Heat exchange pump installed and ops checked

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19883&d=1374361460

"the mess", nicely put away in its blanket...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19882&d=1374361459

[freds]

ahh..yeah let me see if I can get it off without destroying it

Thanks Erik...perhaps some heat????

fred

The wiring looks great...that is one of the less fun challenges. The rest of your build looks graet too!

[Hammer-Dan]

Thanks Erik for the pictures and conversation. I am enjoying the progress pictures and seeing how the 818 goes together. Maybe one day I will have a kit sitting in my garage and get to experience this thrill of building a car.

[metalmaker12]

Looking good, hopefully I will be starting my kit this week, my pickup got moved from yesterday till most likely weds

[Erik W. Treves]

All you guys getting cars and all we have seen is the car sitting in the garage...and maybe a few pics....some none at all...you know the rules!... Get cracking..

well thought I would throw this out there...

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/th_20130722_192855_zps789cdabd.jpg (http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/20130722_192855_zps789cdabd.mp4)


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hee hee...... you must wait!:p;):rolleyes:

[metalmaker12]

So you started it huh ?

[Erik W. Treves]

You'll know when I start it for real..... Stay tuned... We're close... I expect Wayne to get there first... It is a huge moment in the build for first start!

[metalmaker12]

I know it is a fun time to start up anything one builds. It is the time when you say, hell i got it right. Only took you a "flash"of time!!!

[Mechie3]

Lol. Nice video. It'll be cool to see you rolling around in the go kart soon.

[gwader]

Fuel pump location, wiring path, mounting location, etc. Does FF have those locations built in or are you placing them where you like?

[Erik W. Treves]

Yes and yes

[ehansen007]

Too funny. You had me you *******. :) Don't make me come out there!

"I really am trying to kill him, but so far unsuccessfully. He's quite wily, like his old man"

Dr. Evil

[Erik W. Treves]

Final connections to the intercooler made today. All that left is to hook up the water lines....

Inlet temp sensor and boost reference line for boost controller....

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20031&d=1374712982

tons of room

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20030&d=1374712393

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20029&d=1374712392

rotated all the clamps so it looks more clean...and finally bolted the turbo outlet adapter flange onto the turbo

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20028&d=1374712390

[FFR-ADV]

Looks Sweet!

[Wayne Presley]

Boy that looks great!!!!!!!!!

[metalmaker12]

I like it, nice

[Erik W. Treves]

thanks guys...caught myself making vroom .....psssh...... vroom .....psssh noises today...must be getting close to first start....lol....

[HelluvaEngineer]

I love your build thread!

How much does the inter-cooler weigh when it is full of water? I love the setup. I am curious if the little bit of added weight all the way back would change the weight distribution of the car any?

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

thanks guys...caught myself making vroom .....psssh...... vroom .....psssh noises today...must be getting close to first start....lol....

I can picture doing the same thing myself! Keep up the great work.

[ehansen007]

Hey E, I noticed you've migrated your photos over to the FFR photo storage. Any reason why? I was really enjoying your photobucket album and it makes it easy to zoom in and get some great details on different areas.

[bbjones121]

Hey E, I noticed you've migrated your photos over to the FFR photo storage. Any reason why? I was really enjoying your photobucket album and it makes it easy to zoom in and get some great details on different areas.

I liked photobucket for the size of photo, but honestly it was a pain in the a#s for downloading. I like them on FFR much better, just wish the were higher quality.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

One other disadvantage to photobucket is that with an unpaid account you can only download the image so many times before the picture becomes just a little block with a 'bandwidth exceeded' blurb. With a forum like this and as many people that hit these threads it will exceed the FREE account bandwidth very quickly.

[Erik W. Treves]

Actually , David Hodgkins, asked me to and since Photobucket is blocked on my gov't computer...it just made sense.

[David Hodgkins]

I'm up for increasing the allowable size if you guys demand it. I can also look into an auto re-sizer like on other sites to keep the browser speeds up for mobile and older PC folks...

:)

[ehansen007]

Got it thanks.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm up for increasing the allowable size if you guys demand it. I can also look into an auto re-sizer like on other sites to keep the browser speeds up for mobile and older PC folks...

:)

Great!

[Evan78]

I'm up for increasing the allowable size if you guys demand it. I can also look into an auto re-sizer like on other sites to keep the browser speeds up for mobile and older PC folks...

:)Best of both worlds sounds great to me. I like to be able to view full size originals too. A user preference for max width and height is nice for those that prefer it. It can be annoying when someone posts a 3000 pixel wide image and it causes the page to render wider than the screen width and text goes off the edge of the screen.

[Xusia]

I started a separate thread about the pics so we can stop hijacking Erik's build thread:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11016-Picture-Sharing-Discussion

[metalmaker12]

Yea def Dave, I would like to be able to post right from my I phone

[Erik W. Treves]

The video speaks for itself....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/th_20130726_145635_zps26d7b252.jpg (http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/20130726_145635_zps26d7b252.mp4)

[gwader]

Yes! Congrats dude. I bet you can't wait to get it on the street. Thanks for all the pics and videos.

[mspice]

Great job Erik!

[metros]

Sounds badass!

[07FIREBLADE]

Where is this video?

[Samiam1017]

I had to go to it twice before it worked but its there. Sounds nice!

[sneasle]

I'm pretty sure I've seen you around town at least once in the Cobra, won't be long now until I see you in the 818!

[jkrueger]

WooooooHoooooo!

[timmy318]

For some reason it's not working :(....

[RM1SepEx]

sounds great Erik! Congrats.... can't wait to pick mine up next week

[metalmaker12]

Awesome!!!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

For some reason it's not working :(....
Timmy
I had to register to photobucket before the video would work.
Bob

[Xusia]

Awesome! When it's idling it sounds a bit like a V8 to me.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Great progress Erik!

[Turboguy]

That is correct. And it will as well if it's located after the AWIC. So I was wondering why not take advantage of air flow dynamics and preventing the flow from going backwards through the piping. Just a thought, maybe it does not do much of a difference.

If you think about it, when closing the throttle the "flow" of air through the intercooler and into the throttle body will not go "backwards", as you suggest, but rather the airflow will simply stop and the pressure in the plumbing between the turbocharger outlet and the (now closed) throttle plate will increase. A blow off valve will release this pressure to atmosphere, so that you (and the turbocharger) don't see a pressure spike.


I'm not sure it really matters WHERE you locate the BOV along that tract, as long as it's located somewhere between the turbo and throttle plate. While there would be a pressure differential comparing the location right before the throttle plate and right after the turbocharger, my guess is it could be pretty insignificant.

[NicksPapaw]

When I grow up, I want to be like Erik!!! Awesome video.

[flytosail]

So much for a trunk with your set up. Looks to be about four inches of room.

[Erik W. Treves]

Trunk was never in the equation

[wallace18]

Super Job Eric! Sounds awesome!

[C.Plavan]

Nice work Eric...... Like others have said, sounds great!

[conmech]

The video was an excellent update, Eric. Umm, I know a maid service for the mess in your garage..................... 1 round trip ticket and a ride in the beast is all it will cost :rolleyes:

[Silvertop]

When I grow up, I want to be like Erik!!! Awesome video.

Me too, except that I don't plan to ever grow up! Great video! Sounds great too!

[papajon1000]

Awesome work. Super excited for you.

As far as the blow off location ordeal, I like them pre-intercooler because you are not venting "cooled" air. On the stock turbo Subarus the Recirculation valve(BOV) is located after the intercooler. In all reality it doesn't matter as long as there is one located between the throttle plate and turbo outlet.

[Erik W. Treves]

not too worried about the BOV.. my 600+ Hp 792 ft/lbs tq..cobra runs just fine in the same configuration....

playing around with exhaust notes today between figuring out I had the throwout bearing installed backwards...geez..installed it the way I do a ford...nope! in any event I had the tranny off and back on in less than 1 hour....try that in a Subaru!...I have a clutch that works now!!!

So while the video sounded cool...the exhaust note was little ( a lot) like low tinny sound...not really throaty...so I had the COBB high flow cat laying there...maybe...

sounds MUCH improved! you can turn it up now!...I think with some equal length headers this configuration would be very sexy!

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/th_20130727_171335_zpse7e7a7ef.jpg (http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/20130727_171335_zpse7e7a7ef.mp4)

[skullandbones]

Glad you got through the issues and completed the first start. It's a very nice looking project so far. Are you somewhere between where GRM's project and AJW will be as far as power and mods? Maybe it's closer to what Wayne is doing although he has a ton of extra stuff. As far as the sound: I think it sounds a little like our V6 Camero with 315 HP. It does have dual exhaust but there is a similarity. I think yours might sound somewhat different at about 7000 rpms though! You're really blowing thru this build. Good luck, WEK.

[metalmaker12]

Oh that's why it won't move!!! Coming along nicely bro

[AZPete]

I'm enjoying watching your progress and especially now that there is life in it. It sounds good even without EL headers.
I love the colors you've added to the interior, too.
Pete

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

If there is one thing I don't (or didn't) like about the whole direction of the 818 (Subaru powered) is that I generally don't like the the way Subarus sound. Just hearing yours makes me realize that it is possible to have one sound good.

[Silvertop]

If there is one thing I don't (or didn't) like about the whole direction of the 818 (Subaru powered) is that I generally don't like the the way Subarus sound. Just hearing yours makes me realize that it is possible to have one sound good.

If you don't like the way Subarus sound, you will almost certainly want to include a set of equal-length headers in your build budget. The unequal length headers employed by Subaru and some aftermarket makers is the primary reason they sound the way they do. Some people love the sound, and they give it a name -- the Boxer Rumble. Others (me included) -- not so much.

An interesting thing -- Erik's engine seems to sound pretty good -- even though he has not (yet, at least) gone to EL headers.

[flytosail]

Sounds great. May be forgetting about the trunk now.

[FFR-ADV]

Wow, what great progress!

When do you sleep between work and the 818?

Cheers!

[Erik W. Treves]

Well PTSD gets me up pretty early...so sleep when I can.... in any event I have been known to get "focused"...shoot I don't stop for lunch... keeps the mind sharp!

anyway...working through some small issues here and there... cleaned around the garage a lot today, cleaned out the DRIVER's side foot box....hmm.... I now have a good brake pedal and a good clutch pedal...

went ahead and move to the front of the car and decided to start mocking up the heat exchangers...came out alright...still some fine tuning to be done..but I think it will work...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20114&d=1375065912

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20107&d=1375065214

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20108&d=1375065215

[metalmaker12]

Looks like a great location, should work very well.

[bbjones121]

Looks great. Why did the tire identification get blurred out?

[Mechie3]

Erik doesn't want to share his tire and wheel into until he is done and sure that it works. He won't know it works until the body is on and a test drive done.

[bbjones121]

Got it. That makes sense.

[Erik W. Treves]

Yeah.. sorry about that...but it seems if I don't have specifics, the firestorm starts and we get off track..trying to get it on the ground to see what needs to happen to the fronts and the backs...when I have something accurate to post I will...for now just know I am not using the recommended configuration..I am going for a certain look...

[07FIREBLADE]

Are these the hay exchangers for the intercooler?

[Wayne Presley]

Are these the hay exchangers for the intercooler?

I know it has horsepower but hay exchangers....:D

Yes heat exchangers for the IC.

[07FIREBLADE]

I know it has horsepower but hay exchangers....:D

Yes heat exchangers for the IC.

Stupid swype on my tablet...

[skullandbones]

Erik,

Have you got an OEM pump driving the coolant for the HEs or is that custom too? Must be interesting getting that plumbed. Thanks, WEK.

[Erik W. Treves]

I got my pump from Wayne at VeryCoolParts....I think it is the one that the cobra uses... you would have to ask him

[Ironhydroxide]

Looks great. Why did the tire identification get blurred out?

I think Eric is tired of people asking him every detail about his build, questioning why he did things, etc.

i know i would, if I were building the 1st 818. I'd probably take pictures, and finish it. but not show them till it was done and driving.

[Wayne Presley]

The IC pump is a Bosch pump used on the Lightning and Cobra's. It's part of the air to water intercooler kit that I'm selling

[timmy318]

The IC pump is a Bosch pump used on the Lightning and Cobra's. It's part of the air to water intercooler kit that I'm selling

I haven't seen anything on your website regarding parts for the 818. I'd be interested in some parts!

[Mechie3]

The IC pump is a Bosch pump used on the Lightning and Cobra's. It's part of the air to water intercooler kit that I'm selling

I think it's the same one I use on my Fmod to circulate water in the cooling system while the engine is shut off.

[Slatt]

Yeah.. sorry about that...but it seems if I don't have specifics, the firestorm starts and we get off track..trying to get it on the ground to see what needs to happen to the fronts and the backs...when I have something accurate to post I will...for now just know I am not using the recommended configuration..I am going for a certain look...

Firestorm? What firestorm? We can see those are swapped Pirelli tires and you'll die when you touch a curb. (Just kidding, it's a Formula 1 thing). ;)

[Frank818]

Awesome sound!!! Can't wait to hear it on acceleration!

[Frank818]

If you think about it, when closing the throttle the "flow" of air through the intercooler and into the throttle body will not go "backwards", as you suggest, but rather the airflow will simply stop and the pressure in the plumbing between the turbocharger outlet and the (now closed) throttle plate will increase. A blow off valve will release this pressure to atmosphere, so that you (and the turbocharger) don't see a pressure spike.


I'm not sure it really matters WHERE you locate the BOV along that tract, as long as it's located somewhere between the turbo and throttle plate. While there would be a pressure differential comparing the location right before the throttle plate and right after the turbocharger, my guess is it could be pretty insignificant.

Tnx for that Turbo, appreciated. :)

[Erik W. Treves]

Well not too much done today...mostly a lot of cleaning....the garage was a mess and really needed a good cleaning...sooooo that means put the car on the ground! yippee! Grab the wheels and get to lowering the car on to its feet.

Decided to go ahead and start figuring out the front aluminum and get the alignment screws placed to get the gaps repeatable .. get the heat exchanger holes cut out of the nose. Seal the tank after my "wookie" modification.... and then clean some more...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20292&d=1375486353


http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20288&d=1375485871

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20289&d=1375485872

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20290&d=1375485874

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20293&d=1375486609

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20291&d=1375485875

[Stickshift84]

Looking awesome!!! Makes me realize how far I have to go...

[Mitch Wright]

Fantastic, nice work.

[THE ITALIAN]

I know it has horsepower but hay exchangers....:D

Yes heat exchangers for the IC.
Eric,
On those HAY exchangers; Why two ? instead of one in the center? Are you cooling something else? or seeking balance?

[Turboguy]

Anyone else thinking about replacing the Aluminum panel behind the seats with steel? Or perhaps some sort of steel plate in the trinagle between that pulley and the gas tank?

[metalmaker12]

Looking awesome!!! Makes me realize how far I have to go...

A yeap, it is going to take a bit

[metros]

I've said it before but great choice in wheels. The style fits the car nicely.

[Erik W. Treves]

Spent most , if not all day just playing with the radiator and fitting the head light buckets..also finalized all the front wiring..so that's all done... also fitted the sway bar, just have to hook the end links up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20313&d=1375572945

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20312&d=1375572944

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20311&d=1375572943

[Mechie3]

Anyone else thinking about replacing the Aluminum panel behind the seats with steel? Or perhaps some sort of steel plate in the trinagle between that pulley and the gas tank?

The aluminum there is thick. Probably 1/4 inch. Its rather beefy stuff, not the .063" stuff used elsewhere.

[RM1SepEx]

the rear firewall is .125 the other AL is .040

[Mechie3]

Lol. I didn't actually measure and didn't look too hard. The edges were rather sharp. I'd recommend getting a deburring tool for that and the trans cover.

[longislandwrx]

Wheel fitment looks great in those pictures. I guess your calculations worked out. Nice Job.

[Erik W. Treves]

yeah..I will know for sure today when I put the rear section on again...right the rear with a +45 offset looks like a .40 spacer...the front.....still trying to figure it out...but I don't have the alignment or ride height done...

[bbjones121]

It is great to see that FFR seemed to have fixed the lopsided wheel placement in the wheel wells.

[Erik W. Treves]

Nose, fenders and lights, completely installed, drilled and marked. All gaps are now set. The hood is centered an no hood pins! So what you see is how it will look after paint. Now just have to scuff and prime the front....I have to fill some of the "extra" holes I made, but no biggie. I have to finish up the front aluminum to deal with the tire size, but hope to have that all done by the end of the week. SO far the aluminum is looking pretty good...sorry, forgot to take pics...maybe tomorrow....

getting closer!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20404&d=1375838156

[RM1SepEx]

Looks great Erik! I want to go w/o hood pins too, what is your soln?

[Erik W. Treves]

I reversed the hood pins in the nose so you reach through the nose to un-pin the front...the pins are bonded and glassed to the nose...then the rear corners I bought some mini hot rod door bear claw latches that will either release from inside the car or I will have pull lanyard in the nose right next to the hood pins... that's the plan anyway...I should have it all working this weekend... that part is still work in progress...but I think it will work out... I was gonna hinge the nose but for the little you will need to go in there I didn't see the point...so far the mock up looks like it will work...hope it executes as well as it briefs :confused: :o

[Wayne Presley]

Sounds promising Erik, can't wait to see pics

[RM1SepEx]

I want to try to glass in a front hinge (that allows easy hood removal) and use a latch with cable pull in the back

or an electric release and door popper. I'm thinking a 4 door kit would allow for both doors, hood and trunk. Buttons inside as well as a multi function remote. They have extra functions... a relay to disable the ignition or fuel pump perhaps?

[Flamshackle]

I reversed the hood pins in the nose so you reach through the nose to un-pin the front...the pins are bonded and glassed to the nose...

BRILLIANT!

So simple yet much better. I wonder if FFR could adopt this little gem of an idea. I am sure the vast majority would prefer this to visible pins.

[ehansen007]

E, so you got all the gaps down? How about the rear deck lid? What was the issue there? Zullo said something about a shock tower which has been corrected on the newer chassis?

[C.Plavan]

Very Clean.... Looks great.

[Erik W. Treves]

-E

Yeah, the front gaps are all good..the front didn't take too long to figure out....

The big issue all around is,,,,, the GOOD NEWS is the panels are all seperate so prep, paint and packaging is SUPER easy...the bad news is the panels are all separate so getting the gaps down was a pain for me anyway.....lol....

For me, it was probably a lot of interference from the Cobra and 33 builds...since those are all one piece bodies you can pretty much throw it on there, square it up and you're done.

The 818 is a different animal (at least for me)...some probably will find it easier...

First thing..put DOWN the screws and drill....pick up at LEAST 6-8 long jaw vise grip pliers from HF.

The whole fitment starts in two places..

1. The 5/8" placement back on the frame behind the front wheel..don't trust the transport screw spots
2. The radiator support needs to be bolted such that it is as far forward as possible given the hardware placed in the appropriate spots..some wiggle room here...

After which, you clamp the areas around the door sill... you need to make sure the sides "sails" don't move...

If your rear bumper is pre-drilled, use smaller bolts... if not just clamp the rear bumper to start...and it needs to be clamped tight!

THe change to chassis was done after mine and Wayne's kit to the rear strut towers..I just welded tabs on mine.

The rear bumper rubs on the lower transmission mount bolts (thanks Wayne for the assist)...so you have to grind out 2 "C" cuts - this was the bulk of my issue in the rear.

once I clearanced for the tranny mount the bumper was able to move around a lot better.

I supported the rear bumper with a jack during the process of clamping.

Next you have to adjust the sails even on both sides AND THEN, grab each of the wheel wells and PULL UP and roll the fenders up on to the ledge of the shock tower and CLAMP the crap out of it cause there will be tension in the body.

Remeasure to ensure you are still centered - from the top mount of the rear shock (rear ear) you should be ABOUT 13 to 13 1/8" each side.

Next, back to rear bumper..this is where both Tony and Wayne helped again... you have to ensure that the side body line continues to line up all the way to the bumper...I had installed mine off ... this required me to unclamp the bumper from the sail, push down on the sail and pull up on the bumper corner then re-clamp..had to redo both sides, then go back to the wheel wells and ensure you are still square...

The mid trunk (with the two humps)..need to open the roll bar holes a little to get it to move as far forward to meet up with the door.

The trunk lid does not naturally lay in the opening on my car...not sure why exactly..with the slightest pressure it fits in the hole though...I will say, that after the drive back from FFR when I opened the trailer you could smell the resin still cooking off the panels...I stored all the panels vertically so they wouldn't change shape, but I recall that early in the build some of the panels were laying flat in the sun...so I have it all clamped up right now and it scheduled to be sunny this weekend and will probably just leave out there again.... not a big deal to fix in any case...if I fix it at all.

In my head..after seeing how nice the open house car looked, I took for granted that it still is a kit car and it does take "work" ... the panels will line up, but they only line up ONE way and if you are off anywhere it just make it worse at the end...oz make pounds!

Did I mention you should clamp first !! :)

just keep at it and go slow.... in my case I got frustrated with the back, moved to the front (spoke with Tony and Wayne) and came back to the back and BAM! in like flynn! Spent almost a whole day on the back...the front 2 hours and that includes bolting in the head light buckets and head lights... really happy with the way the front came together...I need to put the winshield in and the doos to make sure it is for sure all good...but I think I am there... will now refine the rear after I get it out in the sun...

long post, I know, sorry.

Erik

[Mechie3]

Long, but informative. Thanks.

Are these the vice grips you're referring to?
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-swivel-pad-lock-grip-pliers-39534.html

[Erik W. Treves]

yes..those will work.. when you do the back you need the two on each rear corner, on each wheel well and some c- clamps on the door sills.

[AZPete]

Thanks, Erik, for the detailed post and especially for working out a way to avoid the visible hood pins! I'll get the HF vice grips.
Pete

[Erik W. Treves]

Thanks, Erik, for the detailed post and especially for working out a way to avoid the visible hood pins! I'll get the HF vice grips.
Pete

ehhh...not there yet...I still have some work to do...it's all concept right now...waiting on 1 part...hopefully this weekend goes well....but for now ..No problem..happy to share!

[ehansen007]

Thanks for the long descriptive post. I'll be putting it in the body sub forum!

[Erik W. Treves]

Got a pretty early start today...been thinking about the hood and hood pin thing all week....My first cobra had hood pins and removable hood...and I sat and remembered why my current cobra has hinged everything....sooooo.....3 designs and 2 tries...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20548&d=1376085310

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20549&d=1376085311

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20550&d=1376085312

closes pretty awesome too...fully adjustable to make the gaps still come out awesome....this what it looked like after the first 10 open close checks and well as a wiggle, wiggle check

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20551&d=1376085313

started messing with the door as well...thanks wayne!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20552&d=1376085315

looking pretty cool I think!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20553&d=1376085316

[Mechie3]

Love it. Do you intend to use an prop rod or air pistons for the final product?

[Erik W. Treves]

Prop rod, the hood is too thin for anything else I think.

[Erik W. Treves]

Perfect end to the day...special delivery from VeryCoolParts.com.... thanks Wayne!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20557&d=1376094937

Course it is with me everywhere I go...the action is soooo nice... you will excuse me if I don't post for a couple days...I need some alone time with my new shifter...(insert vroom...psssh...vroom... ahhhh noises here ) lol...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20556&d=1376094935

[jimgood]

Nice job so far, Erik!

Something I've been curious about with regard to running radiator tubing...I know it would be more expensive, but is there any reason one couldn't get stainless tubing bent into a shape that would replace the flex tubes?