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Thread: The Gentleman's Roadster, Bismarck Build: Dash finished

  1. #241
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2024
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    Bismarck, ND
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    I need some help with the power steering reservoir set up.

    I use Forte's hydroboost with power steering. I have the issue of a stiff brake pedal with slow return. I've read many forum posts about hydroboost issues, and I hope/believe it has to do with my plumbing. I worked pretty hard to bleed the MC and brakes sufficiently, but they are on the car now and I'm not very interested in removing the MC or hydroboost unless I have to.

    I was using the "T" between my power steering and hydroboost with the 90 towards the reservoir. Clearly a mistake. I switched the T with the 90 towards the hydroboost, but I recently read this still pushes the power steering return 50% towards the return hydroboost line. I've spilled more power steering oil on the floor than I've put in my car at this point, so I want to do this one more time only.

    I'm purchased a bulkhead fitting and was intending to drill into my power steering reservoir to place the second fitting. I'm also considering a separate remote reservoir with two fittings. While I have the system apart, I will likely place a PS fluid filter in the PS return line and I'm even considering a cooler. Here are the questions.

    If I purchase a remote reservoir with two inlets for PS and HB, can I simply rout the larger return hose to the other PS reservoir on my engine pump?

    Are those inline PS fluid coolers worth it, or should I use a standard PS cooler mounted in front (or none at all?) I will not be racing this car, but we all have wide sticky tires and I may drive it several hours at a time.

    Any recommendations on a remote machined aluminum finish reservoir with two inlets? Any special items I need to connect the outlet directly to my pump and remove my factory reservoir?

    Thanks again guys. Just want to button this up so I can move on.
    MK4 Roadster, Delivered 12/19/24. SBF 363, TKX 0.81, IRS 3.31, PS, Hydroboost brakes, wilwood brakes, British Racing Green with Tan saddle leather interior

  2. #242
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    Sep 2024
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    Bismarck, ND
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    Dash 1.jpegDash D.jpegDash P.jpeg

    Finally installed my dash.
    MK4 Roadster, Delivered 12/19/24. SBF 363, TKX 0.81, IRS 3.31, PS, Hydroboost brakes, wilwood brakes, British Racing Green with Tan saddle leather interior

  3. #243
    Senior Member
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    Sep 2024
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    Bismarck, ND
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    Shifter.jpeg

    My gated shifter is finished! I have some assembly and polishing to do but it turned out really well. Now I just have to get the height right to match my pattern. The plate is made from 1/4" stainless steel so it should shine up nicely. I still have to knock back the hard edges and radius the gates or it will scratch my shifter stick.
    MK4 Roadster, Delivered 12/19/24. SBF 363, TKX 0.81, IRS 3.31, PS, Hydroboost brakes, wilwood brakes, British Racing Green with Tan saddle leather interior

  4. #244
    Member
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    Jun 2023
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    CT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highplainsdakota View Post
    Shifter.jpeg

    My gated shifter is finished! I have some assembly and polishing to do but it turned out really well. Now I just have to get the height right to match my pattern. The plate is made from 1/4" stainless steel so it should shine up nicely. I still have to knock back the hard edges and radius the gates or it will scratch my shifter stick.
    I reread your response to my gated shifter question on the previous page of this build thread and I still think you may be missing my concern. To try again, my main concern when previously researching a gated shifter is that when the engine is under load while accelerating/decelerating, it is going to rock a little about the rubber engine mounts. This rocking is going to lead to linear shifting of things directly bolted to the power train. This is the reason you have to leave the exhaust cutouts oversized so the pipes don’t contact the body under all driving conditions. Same thing is going to happen with the shifter stick poking up through your trans tunnel mounted gate. My concern is that a little rotation of the engine is going to lead to some bigger displacement of the shifter stick and could possibly lead to it hitting the sides of your gate cutouts as it’s mounted to the chassis and not the powertrain. I agree that everything works in the engine off static state, my concern is engine on. I think your fix would be to widen the gate paths until contact is eliminated under engine load but the pattern you are left with may not be as aesthetically pleasing as currently produced. Apologies for posting again on the same subject just trying to help if you misunderstood my original question and if you have already thought of all this and accounted for it then I’m just not understanding the description of your solution and that’s fine too.

  5. #245
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    Sep 2024
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    Bismarck, ND
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    Thanks, no problem for restating. I’m sure I’m not thinking of everything but the engine shifting under load I am aware of. I just don’t know how much. The reason I’m not as worried about this is because of the play in the system. First example, when shifted into 1st gear, I have about 0.5-1 centimeter of left/right play while in gear. Although there is also some engine lift, I believe it to be negligible at the shifter or at least not enough to push it out of gear.

    Secondly, even though my gate tower will be bolted to the frame, it will be bolted over two layers of vinyl and foam giving it some play. I’m getting close to my first go kart session and I hope to have the gate on for that.
    MK4 Roadster, Delivered 12/19/24. SBF 363, TKX 0.81, IRS 3.31, PS, Hydroboost brakes, wilwood brakes, British Racing Green with Tan saddle leather interior

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