Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

[460.465USMC]

...So I embarked on a bracket project that became a little more of a project than I thought but they turned out really well. I essentially welded up an "H" shaped bracket that I could bolt to my sliders. In order to do this I had to weld receiving nuts inside the slider half to receive bolts. I then used the smaller cross bars to allow for four bolts within the confines of the seat pan on the car. I used caged nuts for those and attached them with countersunk rivets. I had to JB Weld some 1/4" spacers between the bracket and the mounting bolts to account for the other four bolt heads which attach the bracket to the slider. You can just see the spacers peeking out from under the cross bars.

Attachment 227888

Really nice work on the seat bracket, sir. I've dabbled enough now to know these custom pieces take me way more thought and way more time to execute than I care to admit. There's more going on there that meets the uninitiated eye. Great work! Learning to weld?...one of these days. It's on my list.

[PNWTim]

Really nice work on the seat bracket, sir. I've dabbled enough now to know these custom pieces take me way more thought and way more time to execute than I care to admit. There's more going on there that meets the uninitiated eye. Great work! Learning to weld?...one of these days. It's on my list.

Thanks Chris. Yes, I am learning to weld. I bought a MIG welder three years ago with the intent of teaching myself to weld. I am a long way from being skilled but I am pretty good at throwing a lot of slag and burning holes through steel. Fortunately, my son has been handy and does the finer finesse work like welding the nuts inside​ the slider mechanisms.

[PNWTim]

Spent the last few days trying to finish up the engine compartment so I can finish the radiator tunnel sheet metal and install the radiator and AC condenser and Boig cool tubes. None of it is terribly exciting but I finished up the alternator and sending unit connections. I opted to run the line through the hollow of the engine mount bracket:

Alternator Connections_040826.jpg

Starter connections worked out well considering I kind of guessed where to terminate the two wires. I am also going to add a 1 gauge ground cable to the motor mount in this location and through bolt it to the engine mount stand:

Starter Connections_040826.jpg

I also finished unwrapping, rerouting and extending the engine harness to reach my chosen ECM mount location. I extended both the engine ground wire and the #1 cylinder coil pack connector. Originally I was going to extend the throttle body harness (which was a somewhat intimidating as it has 5 little wires) but I found a group that sells an extension harness which was an easy decision. I have also chosen to route both my heater hoses together rather than one down and around the back. I can't see what this would be an issue but I need to test fit my cover and make sure this isn't creating an unforeseen problem.

Engine Harness_040826.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Coming together, Tim. May not be exciting, but inching closer to First Start, which is EXCITING IMHO.

You mentioned an engine cover. Can you share the details?

[PNWTim]

Coming together, Tim. May not be exciting, but inching closer to First Start, which is EXCITING IMHO.

You mentioned an engine cover. Can you share the details?

I purchased this cover with the intention of doing something custom with it:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-9680-M50D

Unfortunately, it didn't really fit very well since it's made to go with the hard plastic, formed PCV and factory heater lines. My engine harness is also doubled back up over the PS head and conflicts a bit. All in all, I couldn't really see a way to make it work without committing to some major surgery. It fits really low and nice, hugging the top of the engine so everything needs to be pretty low profile. I am probably going to end up with the raw, undressed look at this point.

The cover uses four balls that fit into sockets on top of the intake manifold. I briefly contemplated extending those balls to raise the cover but then the fit between the intake runners looks odd. At this point I am back to square one.

[PNWTim]

Still working away. I feel like I am getting a lot completed but it doesn't look like much. One of the things I've updated is my punch list I have on a white board magnetically attached to our freezer. I am curious how many others use something like this? I use it a lot to jot down things I need to order or return, small details of something I am working on as well as a punch list of items to complete. This list is primarily to wrap up the front half of the car:

Punch List_041426.jpg

As you can see from the list, I haven't made a tremendous dent in it but I have tackled a few things. I finished up the AC compressor wiring and tested out my wiring label maker. The wiring pigtail I bought had two green leads and my AC compressor had a black and a black with a white stripe. I needed to figure out which was the ground and which was the hot so I could connect to the black and white wires coming from the AC wiring harness. Google told me the wires on the compressor are black = ground, black with white stripe = power. I made sure I continued those on to the green pigtail and wired it up:

Compressor Wiring_041426.jpg

I also decided this was as good a place as any to start labeling those wires that might need a little clarity down the road:

Wire Labeling_041426.jpg

I also tapped into the number four cyclinder coil pack wire to obtain my Speedhut tach feed. On a side note, I called Speedhut to see if there was a preferred cylinder to tap into and they said no. What was news to me is that you can also tap into an injector wire as well. Both apparently transmit the appropriate signal to operate their tachometer. Who knew?

Tach Signal Wire 2_041426.jpg

All finished up. I did end up cutting the wire and using an inline crimp as it was cleaner than soldering and taping. Those with sharp eyes will note the Packard 56 wiring connector I used. All buttoned up and tucked away:

Tach Signal Wire 1_041426.jpg

I also finished my O2 sensor harness as I will probably install my headers tomorrow. I thought I would show the tools I use to do this just for fun. I ended up cutting and modifying this harness to length and using new loom and heat shrink to finish it off:

UEGO Harness Mods_041426.jpg

[PNWTim]

I also installed my engine ground cable:

Ground Wire_041426.jpg

[JimStone]

Looking good Tim

I keep a running "to-do" list on notepad widget in my phone. Let's me organize and plan while away from the shop.

I do keep a clipboard in the garage with a "you better not forget" list of important reminders in case my phone bites the dust or there's an EMP blast or something (kidding, sorta)



I like your wire sleeve label maker. I've been using a cheap thermal label maker, which works great until you accidentally zap your labels with a heat gun shrinking the shrink tubing on the adjacent wire.

[Skuzzy]

I have two whiteboards in my garage. One is the list of projects I need to do (33 items on that list, so far), and the other is the "to-do" list using the index number of the job on the other board as a reference.

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim

I keep a running "to-do" list on notepad widget in my phone. Let's me organize and plan while away from the shop.

I do keep a clipboard in the garage with a "you better not forget" list of important reminders in case my phone bites the dust or there's an EMP blast or something (kidding, sorta)



I like your wire sleeve label maker. I've been using a cheap thermal label maker, which works great until you accidentally zap your labels with a heat gun shrinking the shrink tubing on the adjacent wire.

I have had my heat shrink labeler for a while but haven't really used it as I haven't actually "terminated" that many wires that aren't already labeled. It's going to come into it's own in the cockpit though.

My white board is definitely proof against an EMP but not a shoulder brushing against it so take your pick.

[TXeverydayDad]

Spent the last few days trying to finish up the engine compartment so I can finish the radiator tunnel sheet metal and install the radiator and AC condenser and Boig cool tubes. None of it is terribly exciting but I finished up the alternator and sending unit connections. I opted to run the line through the hollow of the engine mount bracket:

Alternator Connections_040826.jpg

Looking good Tim. A suggestion - put some tape/insulation over the exposed alternator 12V connection. With the aluminum wrapped sensor wires just around it, it’s easy to make accidental contact and throw serious sparks. Ask me how I know…

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim. A suggestion - put some tape/insulation over the exposed alternator 12V connection. With the aluminum wrapped sensor wires just around it, it’s easy to make accidental contact and throw serious sparks. Ask me how I know…

Thanks and thanks for the suggestion. It's actually further away than it looks but I do have a boot end for that cable so need to deploy it sooner rather than later.

[PNWTim]

I have wrapped up the plumbing for the engine compartment. I decided to route both my heater hoses to the PS side around the front to keep them together and neatly routed. They are a bit higher than I would like but the doubled back engine harness didn't allow me to place them any lower. All the PCV and vacuum hose plumbing is complete as well using quick disconnects wherever possible. Where those weren't practical, I used a combination of Gates Powergrip and Oetiker clamps.

Also made up the hoses to my overflow tank and permanently mounted it in it's location. I ended up using an LS engine heater hose for my lower tank hose as the Coyote fitting was slightly larger than my tank fitting and it worked out perfectly. The LS hose is 3/4" on one end and 5/8" on the other. I still need to run the overflow hose with the check valve but will do so once my radiator is in.

I gave up waiting on F5 for my missing steering fitting and ordered one from Amazon. I ran my power steering lines and while I like the layout, I feel like there is a leak waiting to happen. My 9/16" and 5/8" fittings originally came with teflon/HDPE washers. I destroyed the first one snugging it down. The manual says these are Dorman 82540 which I purchased this morning. I tore one in half trying to get it onto the fitting and gave up on the other one. I ended up going with O-Rings instead. Although I snugged the fittings down pretty well you can move them by hand once the lines were attached. I know the O-ring does the sealing but they simply don't seem tight enough but I was hesitant to crank them down and chance distorting the o-ring. If I had my way, I'd go with copper crush washers but they are difficult to find in those sizes. I guess we will see one the Coyote fires up.

I also mounted up the intake and filter. I was unhappily reminded of the fact I threw away my $90 MAF sensor when I pitched the plastic parts which came with my control pack. I tried for a month or two to sell them on Ebay with no luck so they finally made their way to the recycling bin. To add insult to injury, I ordered a replacement from Rock Auto but when I received the new one it didn't fit the harness plug. I got a hold of Chris (forum member 460.465USMC ) and he confirmed I had the wrong one. Of course at this point I had thrown away the packaging which is the kiss of death for a refund. I went ahead and sent it back anyways hoping for a partial. For anyone that needs to know, the MAF sensors that are shipped with the control pack for the Gen 4X are the 2018 to 2023 Gen 3 MAF's, not the 2024-2025 MAFs like I assumed. Live and learn.

All in all, I enjoyed this portion of the work but now it's back to finishing up the cockpit wiring.

Engine Plumbing Complete_041826.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Hi Tim. I recently made the decision to go with Breeze braided hoses because I'm going to add a PS cooler. He sells a -6AN adapter kit that may be a good solution for you (adapts the different size PS rack ports to -6AN male). I chatted with him at length last week, and his sealing approach with this kit sounds more robust than what we get from F5 as you described above.

Adapter Fitting Kit, one each 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring to 06AN, Zinc Plated Steel, For ’87 – ’93 Mustang Specification Power Steering Racks. Includes sealing washers to be added to the fittings if the inlet and outlet ports on your rack are not chamfered as is the case with some new racks supplied by Factory Five Racing and perhaps others.

From his instructions:

The fittings seal with an O-ring at the base of the threads that seats in and is captured by the chamfered lead in to the female threads of the ports in the rack. New racks supplied by Factory Five Racing lack that chamfer and in that case you will add the included sealing washers, known as Dowty Bonded Seals, to capture the O-ring on its outside diameter.

[PNWTim]

Hi Tim. I recently made the decision to go with Breeze braided hoses because I'm going to add a PS cooler. He sells a -6AN adapter kit that may be a good solution for you (adapts the different size PS rack ports to -6AN male). I chatted with him at length last week, and his sealing approach with this kit sounds more robust than what we get from F5 as you described above.

Adapter Fitting Kit, one each 9/16″ and 5/8″ O-Ring to 06AN, Zinc Plated Steel, For ’87 – ’93 Mustang Specification Power Steering Racks. Includes sealing washers to be added to the fittings if the inlet and outlet ports on your rack are not chamfered as is the case with some new racks supplied by Factory Five Racing and perhaps others.

From his instructions:

The fittings seal with an O-ring at the base of the threads that seats in and is captured by the chamfered lead in to the female threads of the ports in the rack. New racks supplied by Factory Five Racing lack that chamfer and in that case you will add the included sealing washers, known as Dowty Bonded Seals, to capture the O-ring on its outside diameter.

Well, great minds think alike. I looked at this kit and may just order it for insurance. I bought a PS cooler a year ago (the one Paul has used) and decided at the last moment I didn't really need it so I wasn't going to incorporate it mostly because I didn't want to pay for the extra hoses needed to connect it. I looked very closely at my rack and honestly couldn't tell if there was a chamfer or not, so I guess something I need to mull over. I just know the teflon seals are a non-starter (at least for me).

[460.465USMC]

I completely understand. I wasn't going to spend the money or effort on the cooler, but recently changed my mind for some reason. Agreed, the hoses and connectors are not cheap, but boy what a difference (Breeze parts) compared to the units from F5. I ran with the F5 supplied hoses on my Mk4, and no issues after slightly tightening the adapters at the rack after First Start.

[PNWTim]

Finished with the engine compartment so I am back to the wiring. Made some good progress the last couple of days. Firewall wiring is completed with the final addition of the 150 amp inline fuse for the alternator charge wire. I was originally going to put this in the cockpit but I could find a location that was realistically accessible. I finally realized it made the most sense to put it on the firewall. All this wiring looks like a lot a spaghetti mostly because there is a lot going on in a very limited area. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out now that it's finished.

Firewall Electrical_042226.jpg

With that wrapped up I got back in the driver's seat for the interior wiring. I think I am only a day or so away from wrapping this up but I need to actually finish my dash upholstery. Since my dash is one piece, I need to terminate a lot of switch wiring in the correct locations and to do this will require the dash mocked up in place. I have been practicing with my sewing machine but haven't developed the level of confidence I would like to stitch my Alcantara but I may have to roll regardless as this is a roadblock. I do have everything layed out and planned but to keep wiring to decent lengths it almost has to be done in place. Here is where it all stands right now. I also still have a couple of question marks in my mind on a couple of items:

• I have been unsuccessful in finding a toggle switch which acts as a rotary switch for my temperature control. I thought I might be able to find one where the toggle lever would move a pivoting linear slide to duplicate the effect but if such a thing exists out there I can't find it. I don't really want to hide the temperature control so I may end up simply having a cold, warm and hot toggle. More to come on this.
• I am still looking for specialized toggles to replace the Dakota Digital cruise control switches. They are severely lacking in style points. They do have some logic built into them so any replacement has to be able to do the same. Since most OEMs these days are steering wheel or stalk controls a drop in option has been difficult to obtain. I may end up using them with the idea of replacing down the road but not sure as yet.

Cockpit Wiring_042226.jpg

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

Wiring Scraps_042226.jpg

[edwardb]

I'm a ways behind you on my Mk5 Roadster wiring. Still in the "mess" stage but getting better as I work through it. You're making good progress with yours. From practical experience with the FFR A/C-Heat system, I'd caution you on a "low-medium-high" temperature control. A/C is almost always at full cold. But heat can require subtle changes to be the most comfortable. (I'm speaking for the usual occupant in the passenger seat. ) I'd recommend figuring out a way to have it adjustable rather than fixed points. I'm sure you've seen the pics of the switch panel in my Coupe. I have matching knobs and switches in a row. Looks decent and is very functional.

[PNWTim]

I'm a ways behind you on my Mk5 Roadster wiring. Still in the "mess" stage but getting better as I work through it. You're making good progress with yours. From practical experience with the FFR A/C-Heat system, I'd caution you on a "low-medium-high" temperature control. A/C is almost always at full cold. But heat can require subtle changes to be the most comfortable. (I'm speaking for the usual occupant in the passenger seat. ) I'd recommend figuring out a way to have it adjustable rather than fixed points. I'm sure you've seen the pics of the switch panel in my Coupe. I have matching knobs and switches in a row. Looks decent and is very functional.

Thanks Paul. Probably wise advice based on practical experience. I was leaning the way you describe, just fighting it because I have this stubborn vision in my head that won't let go. It's getting down to the wire though so I am at the "fish or cut bait" stage".

[JTG]

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

Wiring Scraps_042226.jpg

I love this picture, it feels like progress to me even though it's messy.

Something along the lines of "Never trust a neat cook". Because they're focusing on being neat, not on making the food delicious.

[Papa]

Finished with the engine compartment so I am back to the wiring. Made some good progress the last couple of days. Firewall wiring is completed with the final addition of the 150 amp inline fuse for the alternator charge wire. I was originally going to put this in the cockpit but I could find a location that was realistically accessible. I finally realized it made the most sense to put it on the firewall. All this wiring looks like a lot a spaghetti mostly because there is a lot going on in a very limited area. I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out now that it's finished.

Firewall Electrical_042226.jpg

With that wrapped up I got back in the driver's seat for the interior wiring. I think I am only a day or so away from wrapping this up but I need to actually finish my dash upholstery. Since my dash is one piece, I need to terminate a lot of switch wiring in the correct locations and to do this will require the dash mocked up in place. I have been practicing with my sewing machine but haven't developed the level of confidence I would like to stitch my Alcantara but I may have to roll regardless as this is a roadblock. I do have everything layed out and planned but to keep wiring to decent lengths it almost has to be done in place. Here is where it all stands right now. I also still have a couple of question marks in my mind on a couple of items:

• I have been unsuccessful in finding a toggle switch which acts as a rotary switch for my temperature control. I thought I might be able to find one where the toggle lever would move a pivoting linear slide to duplicate the effect but if such a thing exists out there I can't find it. I don't really want to hide the temperature control so I may end up simply having a cold, warm and hot toggle. More to come on this.
• I am still looking for specialized toggles to replace the Dakota Digital cruise control switches. They are severely lacking in style points. They do have some logic built into them so any replacement has to be able to do the same. Since most OEMs these days are steering wheel or stalk controls a drop in option has been difficult to obtain. I may end up using them with the idea of replacing down the road but not sure as yet.

Cockpit Wiring_042226.jpg

And for a little comic relief, this is the floor outside the passenger side of the car where I have been pitching all my offcuts and such. I thought it was indicative of how much work goes into these. I like to use zip ties as temporary, sacrificial clamps while I do things like this so that is a lot of what you see:

Wiring Scraps_042226.jpg

I don't see any blood or shredded bandages on the floor ... not working hard enough!

[PNWTim]

The blood drips and bandages are out the drivers side...

[burchfieldb]

Bandages? That's what electrical tape is for. ��

[PNWTim]

Bandages? That's what electrical tape is for. ��

"Bandages" is code for blue painters tape and superglue.

[Blitzboy54]

"Bandages" is code for blue painters tape and superglue.

I lost count how many times I am about to do something with a razor knife and think very clearly "I'm about to cut myself", do nothing different then cut myself.

[PNWTim]

I lost count how many times I am about to do something with a razor knife and think very clearly "I'm about to cut myself", do nothing different then cut myself.

It's my melon that keeps taking a beating. I am doing all this wiring from the driver's seat and every time I get in and out, and probably 16 times while I am sitting there I remind myself "now, don't hit your head on the roll bar" then promptly clock myself on the roll bar.

[P100DHG]

This looks amazing! Keep up the good work!

[burchfieldb]

It's my melon that keeps taking a beating. I am doing all this wiring from the driver's seat and every time I get in and out, and probably 16 times while I am sitting there I remind myself "now, don't hit your head on the roll bar" then promptly clock myself on the roll bar.

You need to throw a pool noodle on there

[PNWTim]

You need to throw a pool noodle on there

Shockingly, I have pipe insulation on all of them but they somehow seem to magically rotate of their own accord so the small bare space is perfectly oriented towards my head.

[PNWTim]

I know, I know, it doesn't look finished but it essentially it is. Because my dash is one piece I basically have to pre-wire everything so I can hang the dash and then install the switches from the back side. I also need to make sure all these wires are long enough but not too long so I don't end up with a rats nest and leave enough room for my A/C and defroster hoses. Some of the components are a little difficult to pick out amongst the electrical spaghetti but looking from left to right we have:

• Turn signal indicator housing
• Dim/Bright switch
• Dash harness wires for gauge feed, fuel level, voltage gauge (using one of the clock feeds if I remember correctly)
• Turn signal switch
• Wiper switch
• Ignition switch
• Push button start switch
• Loose wires from the Bowler reverse lockout switch and VSS feeds. There are two red/brown wires exiting this harness under the console which control the back up lights.
• Cigar lighter
• and hidden just behind the lighter is my wiper squirter momentary switch

I have not included the headlight switch as it's fairly large and I didn't want it in my way. You'll also note I don't have the fan and A/C switches nor the temperature rotary switch connected as I have still not decided how to handle these. The fan and A/C switch I was originally going to include in my bank of switches which leaves the temp controller as a bit of an orphan. I don't really like the idea of hiding it so I may be moving a couple of items around. Still mulling that over.

A couple of items not showing but essentially wired are the turn signal warning chime and the headlight warning chime. These are going to mount either on the ends of the upright portion of the center console or on a custom bracket and hidden under the dash. I have also wired up a high beam indicator and courtesy lights. The puddle or footwell lights are controlled by the module you can see left of center on my console (it has all the colored wires). It's a pretty neat little unit, is WiFi enabled and can be programmed to manage the lights in a lot of different ways.

I also have a Bat+ feed going to both doors for my door poppers and puddle lights (part of the courtesy light circuit) there as well. Branching off of that wiring will be my roundel racing lights on the doors (also known as 1964 MGB license plate lights). This is tied into the headlight switch and will power on when either the running lights or headlights are on.

I guess that's about it for now. I need to install my headers and do a couple of other things and then it should be time for first start. Hopefully in a week or two.

Dashing Wiring Complete_042926.jpg

[Papa]

Looking good, Tim. I'm close to the same point on my wiring inside the car. I'm considering a dome light of some sort tied to the courtesy circuit. I also have to wait and see what the FormaCar window wiring looks like before I can button mine up.