How to identify engine?

[Matt P]

I purchased a completed build, third owner, without any of the build logs or details (originally finished 10 years ago). It’s a beautiful build from the engine to the body.

According to FFR, the engine was not purchased through them, but has mounts for 302/351.
The seller states it is a blueprinted 347, but noted he does not know if it was BluePrint the brand or just more generically a “blueprinted” build.

The only identifying characteristics I can find is Dart Pro 1 on the head.
Is there anyway I can better identify the engine and where it may have came from?

Lastly, if I can’t ID it exactly, what should I use for oil (assuming it is a 347)?

[Rebostar]

The exterior block archetecture is similar for the 302 & 351. Outwardly the difference is in the deck hieght. The 351 is about .79 inches higher as measured from crankshaft centerline to the top of the cylender deck. The easiest way to tell is the distance from the distributor hole boss to the top of the block. The 302 boss is almost even with the "china wall". (front intake manifold parting line). The 351 is about .75" higher. There are other ways to ID it but not without some disassembly. The attached is a 1969 351W block stroked to 427. Hope this helps.
As far as the oil is concerned it would not matter about what oil you use if the motor has more than a few hundred miles on it. After break in I use Mobil #1. Lots of guys use Castrol synthetic.

Allyn

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[rich grsc]

You can use any good quality conventional engine oil.. I would not run a synthetic oil

[JJK]

If it is a Blueprint engine, they should have stamped their serial number or attached a plate with the number on it. Check this link out. If you find it, you can contact BPE to verify exactly what you have.
Where do I find my serial number?

[Matt P]

The exterior block archetecture is similar for the 302 & 351. Outwardly the difference is in the deck hieght. The 351 is about .79 inches higher as measured from crankshaft centerline to the top of the cylender deck. The easiest way to tell is the distance from the distributor hole boss to the top of the block. The 302 boss is almost even with the "china wall". (front intake manifold parting line). The 351 is about .75" higher. There are other ways to ID it but not without some disassembly. The attached is a 1969 351W block stroked to 427. Hope this helps.
As far as the oil is concerned it would not matter about what oil you use if the motor has more than a few hundred miles on it. After break in I use Mobil #1. Lots of guys use Castrol synthetic.

Allyn

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Thanks for the description, definitely looks to be based on a 302 and I’ll assume he is curate in saying 347.
Any suggestions on specific oil weight?

[Matt P]

If it is a Blueprint engine, they should have stamped their serial number or attached a plate with the number on it. Check this link out. If you find it, you can contact BPE to verify exactly what you have.
Where do I find my serial number?

Thanks for the great link. I don’t see anything indicating it is a BluePrint so I’ll assume it was a custom 347 build.

[tnt_motorsports]

I plan to run 15w40 HDEO in my 427SBF. If you ask 100 people you will get 100+ different answers. Any 10w30 or higher weight oil will likely be fine, IMO.

[Bob Cowan]

Determining a 302 based engine from a 351 is pretty easy. A couple of simple measurements will give you the answer.

Measuring displacement is a lot more difficult without taking the engine apart. There's a special tool I've see used in tech inspections, but I have no idea where to get one.

[Matt P]

Everything stated about the car from the previous owner has checked out so I am satisfied that it is indeed a 347. I wish I knew all the specifics of the internals, etc but I have no desire to take it apart and will just enjoy it with the knowledge I have.

[narly1]

Everything stated about the car from the previous owner has checked out so I am satisfied that it is indeed a 347. I wish I knew all the specifics of the internals, etc but I have no desire to take it apart and will just enjoy it with the knowledge I have.

Exactly.

If it runs OK and pushes your butt back into the seat to your liking then leave it alone.

Knowing what's inside only matters if you're looking to estimate the engine's value for resale, or if you're setting out to fix it.

Both are least-desirable reasons IMO.

Drive on!

Earl

[Railroad]

I would run dino oil with zinc. Probably a roller cam and matching distributor gear, but dino/zinc will cover the bases.
good luck,

[Norm B]

In this case the engine identity is not going to tell you anything useful with respect to the oil requirements. The cam, lifters, crankshaft and bearings are all after market. Construction of the camshaft and bearing clearances determine the type and weight of the oil you should be using. I would start with 10w30 dino oil and monitor oil pressures hot and cold at idle and cruise..

[OSU Cowboy]

I run Castrol GTX 10W-30 with a bottle of Lucas Zinc additive in my 347.

[Avalanche325]

I am surprised at how many people are saying conventional oil. The only reason to run conventional is an old gunked up engine that has always run conventional.
Synthetic is much better in every aspect.

Here is a good article by oil experts: https://classicmotorsports.com/artic...et-record-str/

[Rebostar]

I am surprised at how many people are saying conventional oil. The only reason to run conventional is an old gunked up engine that has always run conventional.
Synthetic is much better in every aspect.

Here is a good article by oil experts: https://classicmotorsports.com/artic...et-record-str/

Great post.
I put Mobil #1 in my new 99 Ford 1999 Ranger PU. I put over 300K on it with regular oil changes. Far as I know the truck and engine are still running long after I sold it. I've built 4 Ford 1960's era engines for my various classic cars, FE,s, 302W, & two 351W. After break in of 200 to 300 miles I've put synthetic Mobil #1 in them. I have no regrets. But a quality dino 10-40 wont hurt you.

[Matt P]

I am surprised at how many people are saying conventional oil. The only reason to run conventional is an old gunked up engine that has always run conventional.
Synthetic is much better in every aspect.

Here is a good article by oil experts: https://classicmotorsports.com/artic...et-record-str/

I forgot to include in the original post that the vehicle only has 2,500 miles on it in the last 10 years. I do not know what oil has been used in the past, and not sure I care enough to send it out to be analyzed and figure it out.

conventional 10w-30, perhaps Valvoline VR1 which has some zinc in it, or a zinc additive, seems like a safe enough bet.

I appreciate the link!

[Matt P]

In this case the engine identity is not going to tell you anything useful with respect to the oil requirements. The cam, lifters, crankshaft and bearings are all after market. Construction of the camshaft and bearing clearances determine the type and weight of the oil you should be using. I would start with 10w30 dino oil and monitor oil pressures hot and cold at idle and cruise..

Agreed, but I was hoping to find some indication of who may have built it so I could try to backtrack and find out the internals that were used. I knew it was a long shot but had to try.

[Steve1979]

In regards to your engine and finding out about it, a couple of suggestions I would make. This is so you can collect some of your own first hand information. And this is just my opinion. As a starting point, when you have time, try and figure out what year block you have. Providing it is a Ford block, you should be able to find a casting number on the passenger side right above the starter. The only problem you may encounter is whether or not you have an original style starter, which are big and shield the area of the block that would show the number. If it is as you mentioned a blue printed motor, I would expect there’s a good chance that you may have a mini starter, which may allow you to see the block number without removing the starter.
What you can glean off of the block is the decade it came from and with that, if it came from the factory manufactured with roller or flat lifters. You would be looking for a casting number like XXXX-6015 X or XX or XX X. Translated, my block has been with me a long time and is C5AE-6015 E. The 6015 is a Ford number for block. The other numbers are designations for year cast, possible model it was going into and revision. Also, there is a quick way to check the stroke of your engine to kind of verify it’s in the ball park of a 347, if you were interested.

You mentioned that the heads are Dart Pro, pull a valve cover and see what kind of setup you have there. The rocker arms may have a brand name on it and could lead to more information.

For oil, I have never heard anyone say that a zinc/phosphorus additive is bad for a roller cam. Have heard it’s bad on catalytic converters. But for a brand name, I have used PennGrade1 HP oil and recently switch over to Royal Purple HP Street fully synthetic, both brands have zinc/phosphorus additives for use with flat lifters. Decades ago I did use Valvoline Racing oil, but read an article back then on why it was bad for street use. It had to do with not having a lot if any detergents in it. Because it was intended for racing, most racers would change oil afterwards and detergents weren’t need. Could be things have changed.
Weight wise is up to you.

Best,