OK all you Mk5 Roadster builders that are ahead of me and have your radiator completely mounted, I have a question. The manual says to attach the upper radiator mount to the top of the radiator frame using 5/16” x 3/4” carriage bolts from the inside out. This after attaching half-moon weather stripping to the underside of the radiator top mount bracket. Which is a good idea to have some cushion in the radiator mounting. But with the weather stripping, it's not possible to install bolts. The top edge of the radiator frame is basically even with the bend in the upper radiator mount. Hope this makes sense. The attached picture tries to show what I'm talking about. I have an idea how to resolve with bolts and overlapping washers above. But before I freelance, thought I would ask. Thanks.
PS: Totally unrelated, but if anyone has radiator hose solutions for the Mk5 and a Coyote, I'd like to hear and see what you've done. Just looking at that...
Last edited by edwardb; 10-17-2025 at 05:28 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
I just finished my second one and don't recall any issues installing the radiator. I put D shaped weather-stripping top and bottom. I will see if I can dig up some pics. As for the radiator hoses, I just had Tubular Automotive (Boig Racing) make up some lowers for me. Haven't even taken them out of the box. Will let you know how they fit. As for the upper I used all supplied parts from FFR and the Control pack.
Mike
Mike -- I was hoping you would respond since you've completed a couple Mk5's. Great feedback. Thanks! Adding cushioning on the lower radiator mount is a good idea. Think I'll do that. Will be curious to see how you got bolts into the upper mount. Maybe the part is changed and the flange is lower now? There's just not enough height to get a bolt through the flange of the mount and the radiator. I've used Boig tubes on my last several builds and looked at their website to see if they had any Mk5 stuff. Not yet but sounds like maybe coming. A lower hose from them would be great. I've been doing the Mustang style expansion tank on my Coyote builds. So I just need an upper hose to go from the engine to the radiator. Maybe you're doing the standard setup with the T-filler? I can see where that could be done with the FF parts. I'll work something out.
I see from another post you're working on 10 cars right now? That's crazy. Thanks for taking the time to help.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Thanks for the responses. This plus pictures in a message from Mike Everson. I see the problem. My radiator has a lower top flange than any other pictures I've seen. The top of the flange is right at the bend in the upper mount. Also can see the side tank is different on my radiator than any other pictures. My radiator is an Afco. There must have been a different one supplied to others? Or Afco made changes. This is mine. I'll figure something out. At least this seems to confirm I didn't do anything wrong (this time). Thanks.
Comparing to daily driver rads I don't like bolting the rad core to a bracket. DDs have the rad captured between various style rubber insulators. Looking at the top of rickster's rad I'd remove that crossover bracket. Line the channel in the rad top w/ sticky back foam. You can find a lot of different ones even at HD or L and of course more at McMaster-Carr. Reinstall the bracket w/o the bolts to the radiator.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Comparing to daily driver rads I don't like bolting the rad core to a bracket. DDs have the rad captured between various style rubber insulators. Looking at the top of rickster's rad I'd remove that crossover bracket. Line the channel in the rad top w/ sticky back foam. You can find a lot of different ones even at HD or L and of course more at McMaster-Carr. Reinstall the bracket w/o the bolts to the radiator.
The kit has you put foam cushion inside the bracket. So that's covered. Thought I mentioned that in my post. I agree will probably leave the top bolts off.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Paul,
What did you end up doing for your radiator install ? I'm running into the same problem you did.
I've also noticed that the radiator tanks are sitting on the bottom support, I don't think that is a good idea. I placed a thin adhesive weather strip along the bottom support, just something so it's not metal to metal, and before drilling the holes for the lower mounting bolts, will place some cardboard under the tanks to slightly take the entire weight of the radiator off of them.
Doing this just makes the issue at the top even worse, to the point that there is no way to get a bolt in the radiator top flange into the flange on the bracket.
I would almost think, that the radiator really isn't going to go anywhere if there are no bolts on the top.
Paul,
What did you end up doing for your radiator install ? I'm running into the same problem you did.
I've also noticed that the radiator tanks are sitting on the bottom support, I don't think that is a good idea. I placed a thin adhesive weather strip along the bottom support, just something so it's not metal to metal, and before drilling the holes for the lower mounting bolts, will place some cardboard under the tanks to slightly take the entire weight of the radiator off of them.
Doing this just makes the issue at the top even worse, to the point that there is no way to get a bolt in the radiator top flange into the flange on the bracket.
I would almost think, that the radiator really isn't going to go anywhere if there are no bolts on the top.
I should have followed up on this thread to show what I did. It's in my build thread but I didn't post it here. I made a small bracket with a step in it and mounted at the center of the upper support. I considered not installing anything, as you mentioned it is pretty rigid with nothing. But decided to be safe and locked it down. I didn't add anything on the bottom support. I'm Ok with how Factory Five shows doing it with only the cushion on the top. Adding a small strip of thin material on the bottom rail wouldn't hurt anything and isn't a bad idea. But just makes the problem at the top worse. I'm not sure what you're talking about with cardboard. I wouldn't recommend doing anything with that material that you expect to last. When done, the radiator is very firmly mounted. A huge improvement over the stock method on the Mk4 and before. That's why most (including me) added aftermarket parts to improve it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
The cardboard is just a spacer while I drill the lower bolt holes, for a slight clearance between the tank and support...and will be discarded. No intentions to be anything permanent.
I explored ways to attach the radiator at the top, and just decided as tight as things were without the upper bolts, I can't see it moving anywhere. So, no bolts for me. There are ways to do it, but don't see the benefit.
On the lower radiator hose, I just got mine back from Tubular. Unfortunately for you it is for the SBF, and for the angled inward fitting on the radiator. I had sent Tubular a prototype I made out of 1 1/2 PVC tubing. and they sent me a prototype that fit very well. They now have one to sell to the public.
Ralph
The cardboard is just a spacer while I drill the lower bolt holes, for a slight clearance between the tank and support...and will be discarded. No intentions to be anything permanent.
OK. That make sense. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
I explored ways to attach the radiator at the top, and just decided as tight as things were without the upper bolts, I can't see it moving anywhere. So, no bolts for me. There are ways to do it, but don't see the benefit.
On the lower radiator hose, I just got mine back from Tubular. Unfortunately for you it is for the SBF, and for the angled inward fitting on the radiator. I had sent Tubular a prototype I made out of 1 1/2 PVC tubing. and they sent me a prototype that fit very well. They now have one to sell to the public.
Ralph
Good to hear. What did you end up doing for the upper inlet on the radiator ? I was thinking of going with -16 or -20 AN but with as tight as that inlet is to the RH hood hinge, I don't think the adapter will even fit in there.
I centered the radiator when I installed it, I should have biased it towards the drivers side to make a little more room.
I used the Tubular upper radiator piping. It was designed for the MK4, but also fits the MK5 easily. I see on the Forum that others have used it also. That is with a SBF, not for about other motors.
Ralph
I used the Tubular upper radiator piping. It was designed for the MK4, but also fits the MK5 easily. I see on the Forum that others have used it also. That is with a SBF, not for about other motors.
Ralph
Good deal. Glad to hear they have a solution for both upper and lower now for the Mk5 and a 302. I really didn't want to go through the expense of going with -16 or -20AN fittings.
I have been speaking with Tubular over the past month. They sent me a lower to test with my 427 SBF. They are having issues sourcing the proper rubber hoses for both the upper and lower pipes. They sent me the last rubber hoses they had for the lower. They sent me a lower pipe that was bent, but did not have a bead crimped, and was not coated. They wanted me to install and mark the lower hose locations, and then asked me to send the pipe back for cutting to the proper length, coating, and bead pressing. I haven't received it back yet. I asked about the upper pipe. They are not comfortable officially supplying either the lower or upper pipe for the MK5, as they have not been able to formally measure for the pipes and the connecting hoses. They would like to get access to an MK5 to measure the 427SBF in the MK5. They have tried to coordinate something with FFR but have not gotten a response from them. According to Tubular, the issue is that the upper 90-degree pipe needs to be a short and tight 90-degree bend. I am hoping they can find a hose and will send me the MK4 upper pipe when they send me the lower back. As I have no interest in installing the coiled FFR hose, and my current temporary solution doesn't look the best either.
I have been speaking with Tubular over the past month. They sent me a lower to test with my 427 SBF. They are having issues sourcing the proper rubber hoses for both the upper and lower pipes. They sent me the last rubber hoses they had for the lower. They sent me a lower pipe that was bent, but did not have a bead crimped, and was not coated. They wanted me to install and mark the lower hose locations, and then asked me to send the pipe back for cutting to the proper length, coating, and bead pressing. I haven't received it back yet. I asked about the upper pipe. They are not comfortable officially supplying either the lower or upper pipe for the MK5, as they have not been able to formally measure for the pipes and the connecting hoses. They would like to get access to an MK5 to measure the 427SBF in the MK5. They have tried to coordinate something with FFR but have not gotten a response from them. According to Tubular, the issue is that the upper 90-degree pipe needs to be a short and tight 90-degree bend. I am hoping they can find a hose and will send me the MK4 upper pipe when they send me the lower back. As I have no interest in installing the coiled FFR hose, and my current temporary solution doesn't look the best either.
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Originally Posted by CraigS
