NC Father & Son MK5 Build Air Filter Fitment Question

[RobHartley]

Congratulations, I can't wait to be in your shoes!

[Pete&Scott]

To get our MK5 ready for the go-kart drive, we used Gyraline's app and an iPhone holder to perform an alignment. I saw the app advertised on a couple of social sites and thought we would give it a try. It took a bit of figuring out the system, but it worked well to get the toe and camber on all four wheels set to FFR recommended specs. I found a 20% discount code (SMITHSEURO), making the net cost $151.99 for the iPhone only version. They have a second version that works with Android as well, but it is a bit more expensive.

[Pete&Scott]

Before putting on the body, I decided to tackle the turn signal stalk install. I used Jeff Kleiner's suggestion of taping the screw hole with an 8/32 tap and then inserting a bolt with the head cut off into the turn signal with a little JB weld on the bolt for extra holding power. Worked great to install the stalk and thread on a nut. Figuring out where to drill the hole in the dash was a bit of an exercise. The template FFR provides doesn't fit over the steering shaft, and while it helps with distance, it doesn't really help with where to drill the hole from an up-and-down perspective. I gave the template to my neighbor, who used it to 3D print a collar that goes around the steering boss and then flows over to the steering stalk to help cover up the hole in the dash that is covered in Vinyl. Not thrilled with how the steering stalk cuts directly across the speedometer. I chose to let FFR cut the dash cutouts based on a standard configuration. I guess they haven't updated the dash cutout layout to take the new steering stalk location into consideration. In hindsight, I wish I had elected to do my own gauge layout, but being a first timer, I just assumed FFR would provide an appropriate layout.

turnsignal.jpg

turndash.jpg

[Pete&Scott]

We put our body on last night. I think our issue is that the body is hitting our headers and not allowing it to move forward. I am guessing we might have to remove the body and trim the header opening.

Header from outside
Attachment 226958
Header from inside
Attachment 226957
Manual doesn't call for bulb seal across the rear cockpit wall, but it appears to be needed.
Attachment 226959
Distance from dash to body
Attachment 226960
Gap between body and dash
Attachment 226961
Front quick jack bolts are smaller than front quick jack holes. I saw in a MK4 post that it was recommended to install 3/4 sleeves over the existing front sleeves. Is that still recommended for the MK5. The manual shows a picture of a nylon bushing between the front lower body and the frame. No nylon bushings in the kit. Are those needed or recommended?
Attachment 226962

Other fitment issues:

Door Latches.
Covers are too tight and restrict the latch from moving. Are we supposed to just bend the outside cover out so that the latch will work???
20260318_161124-EDIT.jpg

I guess when FFR moved the E brake from the side to the top, they didn't take into consideration how the shifter and ebrake rings would overlap. Any alternate suggestions, or are others just installing them in an overlapping configuration? Rather a visible part of the car to have a less-than-ideal look. Also, the tunnel top hits the E-brake bracket. Is that what others are experience and any suggestions for improvement.
20260318_175633-EDIT.jpg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Remove the sidepipes and then trim the openings to fit after the body is in its proper position.

Unlike the Mk4 and earlier cars the 5 gets bulb across the arch of the rear cockpit wall.

Yes, there are supposed to be nylon spacers between the body and the square tube just inside of the oil cooler opening. Although not as critical on the 5 as the earlier cars for securing the nose you can use the grommets from Metro Molded Products along with 3/4” OD tubing for the quick jacks/bumpers. I eliminated front and rear bumpers on mine.

You’ll need to cut back that unused tab on the door latch for the cover to clear. Leave just enough for the spring to still catch.

Jeff

[Jeff Kleiner]

Pete & Scott,
I was waiting to get a haircut when I made the previous reply but will add some more detail now that I'm back home with access to photos, etc.

RE: sidepipe to body clearance...don't take the body off, take the pipes off then trim and reinstall to test fit. Repeat as necessary.

RE: your "distance from body to dash"...mine measures almost exactly 1" which is about the same as what you have so you should be good to go.

RE: front quick jacks...these are the body grommets that I mentioned;

https://metroparts.com/front_bumper_...t_cars_ex_17b/

Use these with 2 feet of 0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces. I purchase it from Online Metals

https://www.onlinemetals.com/



RE: the door latches and covers... As I mentioned you'll need to cut back the unused tab like so:



Hope that helps and carry on!

Jeff


Mk5 door latch.jpg
Grommets and tubes.jpg

[Pete&Scott]

Pete & Scott,
I was waiting to get a haircut when I made the previous reply but will add some more detail now that I'm back home with access to photos, etc.

RE: sidepipe to body clearance...don't take the body off, take the pipes off then trim and reinstall to test fit. Repeat as necessary.

RE: your "distance from body to dash"...mine measures almost exactly 1" which is about the same as what you have so you should be good to go.

RE: front quick jacks...these are the body grommets that I mentioned;

https://metroparts.com/front_bumper_...t_cars_ex_17b/

Use these with 2 feet of 0.75" OD x 0.065" Wall x 0.62" ID Stainless Round Tube, 304 Seamless - Part #: 12927
You'll cut that into four 5.5" long pieces. I purchase it from Online Metals

https://www.onlinemetals.com/



RE: the door latches and covers... As I mentioned you'll need to cut back the unused tab like so:



Hope that helps and carry on!

Jeff


Mk5 door latch.jpg
Grommets and tubes.jpg

Very Helpful. Used your stud and nut option on the turn signal stalk, and that worked great as well.

[rponfick]

Watching to see ideas suggested on shifter/emergence brake trim overlap. Just checked mine and same issue. Looks really hokey.
Ralph

[rickster991]

Same for me. Check my thread. I bought a replacement panel and recut the holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post598768

[Pete&Scott]

Same for me. Check my thread. I bought a replacement panel and recut the holes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post598768

It looks you moved your shifter to the forward position to make the rings work. If I recall that was not a difficult move.

[rickster991]

It looks you moved your shifter to the forward position to make the rings work. If I recall that was not a difficult move.

Yes and yes. 4 bolts and swap…

IMG_9700.jpg

[MakoGT350]

We put our body on last night. I think our issue is that the body is hitting our headers and not allowing it to move forward. I am guessing we might have to remove the body and trim the header opening.

Header from outside
Attachment 226958
Header from inside
Attachment 226957
Manual doesn't call for bulb seal across the rear cockpit wall, but it appears to be needed.
Attachment 226959
Distance from dash to body
Attachment 226960
Gap between body and dash
Attachment 226961
Front quick jack bolts are smaller than front quick jack holes. I saw in a MK4 post that it was recommended to install 3/4 sleeves over the existing front sleeves. Is that still recommended for the MK5. The manual shows a picture of a nylon bushing between the front lower body and the frame. No nylon bushings in the kit. Are those needed or recommended?
Attachment 226962

Other fitment issues:

Door Latches.
Covers are too tight and restrict the latch from moving. Are we supposed to just bend the outside cover out so that the latch will work???
20260318_161124-EDIT.jpg

I guess when FFR moved the E brake from the side to the top, they didn't take into consideration how the shifter and ebrake rings would overlap. Any alternate suggestions, or are others just installing them in an overlapping configuration? Rather a visible part of the car to have a less-than-ideal look. Also, the tunnel top hits the E-brake bracket. Is that what others are experience and any suggestions for improvement.
20260318_175633-EDIT.jpg

Regarding the nylon spacers under the nose of the car - there were two in that area when I took delivery of the body and frame, they were in use holding the body to the frame. Then there were two more nylon spacers in the box with the bulb seals and gaskets - they were in their own ziplock bag. (I just found them and thought I would share since apparently we are at the same or nearly same stage)

[Aleinsteingenius]

Congratulations! I will get there eventually.

[jfrissora]

Awesome that you guys are tackling this together. A lot of hours with my dad on my cobra and it was cherished time.

[Pete&Scott]

Regarding the nylon spacers under the nose of the car - there were two in that area when I took delivery of the body and frame, they were in use holding the body to the frame. Then there were two more nylon spacers in the box with the bulb seals and gaskets - they were in their own ziplock bag. (I just found them and thought I would share since apparently we are at the same or nearly same stage)

Thanks. I don't recall them being on when we received the car and I didn't see any in the box with the bulb seal. I picked up a couple at Ace Hardware in case I need them. I ordered the 3/4" tube for the front quick jacks and the front bumper grommets, so I'm waiting on those to do the final spacer mount.

[Pete&Scott]

Awesome that you guys are tackling this together. A lot of hours with my dad on my cobra and it was cherished time.

It has been fun to work together. I am retired (Pete), and my son (Scott) is working and planning a wedding for the end of June, so his time is limited, but we have still put in quite a few hours together. He is my second opinion when I get stuck or need an extra hand. We are hoping to have the car finished and painted in time for the wedding so that he can use it as his drive-away car!!!

[Pete&Scott]

I was able to get the body in position after removing the sidepipes. I installed front quick-jack bolts (but ordered 3/4 tubes and grommets for the front to better fit the front hole), and the bolts below the radiator were drilled and installed. The rear quick jack bolts were a bit of a pain as I had a hard time getting the bolts to thread into the nuts on the body. I think powder coat was in the threads, and the bolts didn't have much of a taper to fit into the nut, so you had to have them perfectly aligned. (Should have used the Jeff Kleiner double nut and threaded rod method). I pulled the nuts and ran a tap through them to clean them out, and then ran a die over the bolts and was finally able to get them threaded. I did not have to trim the tubes. The driver's side roll bar fits (still waiting on the passenger side rollbar and the side view mirrors). Getting the side pipes removed and adjusting the ball connector mechanical lock nuts was a major pain. I wish I had seen this post about not using the mechanical lock at all, or at least until final fitting. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...423#post605423 I

I did a temporary install of the doors (don't use the Acorn Nuts until final, buy some regular nuts as you will be taking those nuts on and off several times). Temporary install of the trunk and laid the hood in place. Plan to do some initial gap adjusting this week and then hopefully get the car off to the body/shop painter.

Scott switched the Tremec Transmission from the rear mount to the front mount. 4 bolts and some extra grease in the shifter ball and now the rings for the shifter and E brake won't need to overlap. Thanks for Rickster991 for that suggeston.

[Pete&Scott]

With the body on and the hood fitted, we discovered the air filter doesn't fit unless we remove the black ring that goes between the Sniper body and the air filter. With the ring off, the air filter rests on top of the distributor. My son really wants to try to keep the existing air filter. He likes the look of it. So question. Can the rolled edge of the body into the engine bay be trimmed where the air filter would fit, or would that affect the structural integrity of the body? Our other option is a shorter, angled 3D-printed ring to go between the Sniper and the Air Filter. My neighbor mocked up something that might work, but will need to send it off to get printed, as his printer can't do high-heat-resistant parts. Any other suggestions besides getting a different air filter?

20260327_223909.jpg
Air Filter height with ring on. Wonder if some of that rolled edge can be trimmed to allow the air filter to slide under the body.

20260327_223746.jpg
Black Ring that came from Blueprint that fits between the air filter and the Sniper

20260327_223659.jpg
Air filter fits under the body if the black ring is removed

20260327_223646.jpg
Air filter sits on top of the distributor wires when the ring is removed.

20260327_131547.jpg
Scott had to do a test run with the body on!!!! Black ring removed and air filter turned sideways for now.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The oval air filter causes problems when used with the tall deck 351 based blocks and a tall intake. I've encountered it on a few customer cars. No only do you get interference at the rear but also contacts the hood:



When looking at this and the space at the rear keep in mind that under acceleration the engine raises and rolls to the right exacerbating the issue.

Also, you may not be aware but those oval filters with the short element are notorious for being restrictive and choking performance. I always recommend doing away with the oval (save it to put on when the hood is up at car shows if you must) and replacing it with a 14" round with a drop base and an X-Stream filter top.



It'll clear and your engine will breathe better.

Jeff

[rponfick]

I keep seeing reference to removing 4 bolts and turning the shifter around to the front position. My TKX has 6 bolts. What am I missing? Am I just being picky?
Ralph

[Pete&Scott]

Sorry, I didn't take a picture, and my son did the swap. I confirmed with him, you are correct, 6 bolts. Two in the front of the shifter and 4 in the back.

[F500guy]

Had t sell the oval filter. I got one from Ansen, smaller oval and still shaved down the mounting ring. With Ansen, able to get a matching rocker covers as well. I did also run the one Jeff showed and it worked great.

Engine Bling.JPGWithround air cleaner.JPG

[Pete&Scott]

Had t sell the oval filter. I got one from Ansen, smaller oval and still shaved down the mounting ring. With Ansen, able to get a matching rocker covers as well. I did also run the one Jeff showed and it worked great.

Engine Bling.JPGWithround air cleaner.JPG

Thanks. If we can't get 3D-printed angled rings to work, I will see if I can talk my son into the Ansen option. I like the look of that one.