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UPDATE: Blueprint Valve Failure With Less Than 1500 Miles
Two weeks ago I was able to get the Cobra out of the garage after a long winter and go for a drive around the block. A mile or so from the house my Blueprint 347 with less than 1500 miles on it had a valve spring retainer split in half, dropping the valve. Luckily the retainer pieces remained up high and I was able to fish them out with a magnet.
I started a warranty claim with Blueprint, as the first start was less than 30 months ago and the odometer isn’t even to 1,500 miles yet. But, I’m getting a little bit of a hassle on it “being out of warranty”. At their guidance I removed the head. The valve did contact the piston - valve is bent, valve guide needs replaced, and the piston has flat spots where it contacted the valve. I’m still working with Blueprint on a solution, and am hopeful they do right by an obvious manufacturing defect, but they only want to supply parts and not take on any labor. At the very least the head will have to go to a machine shop and I’ll changeout the piston myself.
This is really frustrating. I just got the Cobra licensed and on the road in late July 2025 and was really looking forward to the spring driving season. Anyone have similar issues with a valve failure or recent warranty claims with Blueprint?
Pictures below show the valve springs when I first removed the cover and the spring retainers after I fished them out. The valve in the head and then removed - its clearly bent.
IMG_5442.jpgIMG_5438.jpgIMG_5566.jpgIMG_5534.jpg
Last edited by mgk172; 03-17-2026 at 06:42 PM.
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Thanks for sharing. Sorry this happened.
This is my concern with Blueprint, frankly. They're so cagey about the parts they use...the only reason for that is that they're using bargain parts and charging premium money.
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bummer and this hits home with me since I have exactly that engine on order due in about a month. I'm just starting my build so the warranty elapsed time is going to be a problem for me too. It shouldn't matter, but I'm curious if you were pushing the engine when this happened.
Sorry about your misfortune!!! :-(
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Originally Posted by
benblaney
Thanks for sharing. Sorry this happened.
This is my concern with Blueprint, frankly. They're so cagey about the parts they use...the only reason for that is that they're using bargain parts and charging premium money.
You know this for sure?? They build a LOT of engines, so an unfortunate failure is GOING to happen. I suggest you go have a custom built engine if you think they charge premium money. I look at their prices and think 'thats a pretty good deal'.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Not a waxer
I've known of a couple of issues with Blueprint engines (very, very small number given their volume) and they have always stepped up to the plate to make the customer whole. Want to talk about "premium money"? Let me tell you about my recent customer who is on his third engine in less than 500 miles with a 347 done by one of those "premium" engine builders.
Jeff
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I've always had great support from BluePrint. Hopefully you can get something worked out with them.
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering.
Album Here
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MGK,
If Blueprint warrantys parts with the same thing, do you intend to use them? 16 points of potential failure with history?
In the industry your failure is known as infant mortality. Consider Ford volumes and testing and failures.
jim
MGK,
Did you inspect for coil bind?
If the others are close you should reassemble that cylinder springs/keepers/retainer (not bent valve) and see if it binds at max lift which would overload the retainer. Lots of work with a disassembled head.
jim
Last edited by J R Jones; 03-16-2026 at 04:36 PM.
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What is the advantage of a Blueprint engine over a FORD factory crate engine?
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Originally Posted by
BEAR-AvHistory
What is the advantage of a Blueprint engine over a FORD factory crate engine?
Other than customization I don't think much. I bought a Ford factory refurb Coyote. Un modified it comes with a 100k mile warranty. Literally just take my Roadster to the dealership and have them fix it.
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Originally Posted by
BEAR-AvHistory
What is the advantage of a Blueprint engine over a FORD factory crate engine?
I assume you are comparing FORD Windsor based engines that come from Ford Performance Parts who contracts them out to be built by other companies.
Looking today the current FORD offering closest to a Blue Print 347 costs $5k more has 40 less horse power, the warranty is 6 months shorter, and for 26k miles less. The Ford uses Ford Designed parts but I don't think they are made or assembled in house any more.
From what I see Blueprint uses their own Block Castings now, Internals, Cam, Timing Components, and head designs. So it is a Ford Compatible motor with no Ford parts really.
I don't hear of a lot of issues with either. They both sell a lot of motors. Personally I wish there were more short block options out there.
I think bang for the buck is the advantage.
Mark IV, 302 Based 347, TKX, Four link w/3.55, coil overs, PS, 4wheel Wilwood. Dark Blue w Black/Red stripes, Saddle Interior, Blacked out chrome.
Kit Ordered 4/18/2022 Kit Delivered 2/20/2023
Engine Install 9/15/2024 First Start 8/17/2025
Go Kart 2/8/2026 (10 Feet) 3/7/2026 Around the block
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Originally Posted by
mrglaeser
Personally I wish there were more short block options out there.
A few months ago I bought a 427 SBC short block for another project. I went to Blueprint first but they were like if it's not in the catalog we're not doing it. I ended up going with Smeding where it is a catalog item but they were also very flexible and willing to build just about anything I wanted. They've also been extremely helpful when I've asked questions.
Just the difference between a huge juggernaut and a smaller family operated business.
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
Other than customization I don't think much. I bought a Ford factory refurb Coyote. Un modified it comes with a 100k mile warranty. Literally just take my Roadster to the dealership and have them fix it.
Did you buy an extended warranty on your refurb? When I was looking at new stock Coyote engines they were mostly 2 year, 24,000 miles.
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Was just curious. Was an early adopter of the then new FORD crate Coyote. Had a 24,000 mile factory warrantee. Don't remember the time of the warrantee but it would be long done by now. Full dressed engine, clutch & TKO-600 was a package deal from Summit. Was IIRC about $10,000.
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Originally Posted by
cv2065
Did you buy an extended warranty on your refurb? When I was looking at new stock Coyote engines they were mostly 2 year, 24,000 miles.
No, I would assume it's to incentivize you to buy a refurb? I am guessing the margins are better for Ford maybe. They are sold like that as a blown motor replacement option (It's sold as a spare part). Idea being its a long block that you swap all your components over.
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Originally Posted by
benblaney
Thanks for sharing. Sorry this happened.
This is my concern with Blueprint, frankly. They're so cagey about the parts they use...the only reason for that is that they're using bargain parts and charging premium money.
My understanding is they design parts they want built to their specifications and then companies such as Mahle and others build parts for them such as pistons, rods, valves etc.
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I posted last fall about my 347 BP issue at only 140 miles. They did take care of me and the engine is back in the car. I have 20 miles on it so far (Wisconsin and snow) but so far it’s okay. To me, the issue with the motor warranty is that between the time you buy it and install and the time you finally get it registered and drive it the warranty is mostly expired. Especially if you live in the cold and snow parts of the country.
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Don't buy a motor before you have a car to install it into????
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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I've had the "privilege" to work on a few BP engines. From what I've seen they don't use the best of parts. But then again, you're not paying for the best parts either. They do seem to honor their warranties, it's just a major hassle for the customer.
Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017
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Everybody has there horror stories. Blueprint is a reputable company, with good people. Honoring their warranty is part of their practice. I have installed a dozen or more of their engines in customers cars. I had one issue and it was resolved as quickly as reasonably possible. It's important to remember they build a LOT of engines. Mechanical failures will happen. IT happens to to the biggest manufacturers and the smallest, Mechanical parts fail. It sucks when it happens to you. But does happen. Cooler heads prevail, be calm and work with them. I doubt they are giving you a hassle, more likely they just want to be sure they understand the situation before proceding.
Again, they are. reputable company with a high value product. I suspect in the end that you will be satisfied.
Last edited by FFinisher; 03-17-2026 at 08:41 PM.
FFinisher/AKA RE63
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Whenever there's a failure like that, you always want to figure out why. If you don't get to the Why of it, it's going to happen again.
I don't think I've ever seen a keeper break in half like that. It's not a common failure. I would think the fracture would be secondary. If you floated a valve at high rpm's, a keeper might pop out, and then everything falls apart.
I would be sure to check the underside of all the rocker arms. Look for contact marks. The pictures make it look very close.
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Quite an interesting array of responses. No, I was not in a high RPM or hard driving situation. End of the day, BP is taking care of it.
UPDATE: Blueprint is standing behind their product! I’ve gone back and forth with them with multiple photos and observations over the past two weeks and arrived at our solution today, which I am happy with. FFinisher, you are correct in your post. A cool, calm, professional demeanor from both sides goes a long way.
Yes, s**t happens. This was an unfortunate one, but at least it happened very early in the season and the damage was minor. With some luck I’ll be back on the road before May.
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Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Just curious, when BP is honoring a warranty, do you need to pull the engine, pack it up on a palate and ship it back to them? Then wait for them to fix it and send it back?
I'm just curious about the logistics of this and the amt of time your car is down for the count.
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Originally Posted by
egchewy79
Just curious, when BP is honoring a warranty, do you need to pull the engine, pack it up on a palate and ship it back to them? Then wait for them to fix it and send it back?
I'm just curious about the logistics of this and the amt of time your car is down for the count.
Yes. I had to pull and crate. They arrange the shipping piece. They told me 8-9 weeks for turnaround but mine took 13 weeks. Some folks gave me great advice to pull the motor without the tranny and you can do this from the side of the car.
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I pulled an engine for a customer and sent BP an invoice for the labor and they paid it no questions asked.
Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017
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Hope you get this worked out okay. Its amazing what you can sometimes find with parts even from reputable names. It always pays to do an inspection of hardware, but its really frustrating when that happens to professionally built products. I guess even the OEMs have this happen
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After 5500 miles on a BPE 347, all is still good. I did have an early (50 miles) issue with an oil pan leak due to WAAAYY over torqued pan bolts that bent the pan at the block interface. Sent pictures and they tong-in-cheek said that had taken care of the production issue at the plant. They never said exactly how they took care of the 'production issue'. They sent a replacement pan straightaway.
Art Shand, Big Canoe GA
BPE 347 FI, Hydraulic Tremec TKX, Wilwood front & rear, GAS-N Headers/Touring Pipes, many functional upgrades.
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Art - I was just looking through photos from our Build School in September 2021!
New parts arrived yesterday, but work travel is going to keep me busy the next few weeks.
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UPDATE: Blueprint sent all parts out within a few days. Put in a full day yesterday getting everything put back together and she fired right up! Just in time for a sunny 70 degree day here in southeast PA.
…Now for the rest of the story. Went for a short checkout cruise and got gas ($5.19/gal for 94!) and came home. Lost the clutch as I was turning back onto my street.
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Great news! Now more info on the clutch problem please.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
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Originally Posted by
mgk172
UPDATE: Blueprint sent all parts out within a few days. Put in a full day yesterday getting everything put back together and she fired right up! Just in time for a sunny 70 degree day here in southeast PA.
…Now for the rest of the story. Went for a short checkout cruise and got gas ($5.19/gal for 94!) and came home. Lost the clutch as I was turning back onto my street.

Lost my clutch on my first build during one of the longer maiden runs. Had to slip shift all the way home off the interstate and time the speed and lights perfectly to glide into my neighborhood. Got very lucky. Turns out that a c clip popped off of the clutch pedal. It was a 20 minute fix. Hopefully yours is the same kind of simple repair!
Last edited by cv2065; 04-04-2026 at 08:16 AM.
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Originally Posted by
mgk172
UPDATE: Blueprint sent all parts out within a few days. Put in a full day yesterday getting everything put back together and she fired right up! Just in time for a sunny 70 degree day here in southeast PA.
…Now for the rest of the story. Went for a short checkout cruise and got gas ($5.19/gal for 94!) and came home. Lost the clutch as I was turning back onto my street.

Hello, I don't think that is quite "fixed" yet. To me it looks like there is not enough or no clearance between the valve retainer and bottom of the rocker arm. There needs to be clearance there for everything to move and expand. There is a lot going on there than what meets untrained eye at first. Rocker Arm design and Push Rod length play big role here. Do yourself a favor and check / read up on all of this before it costs you another failure.
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True an incorrect pushrod length could cause the problem.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
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Originally Posted by
tonywy
Hello, I don't think that is quite "fixed" yet. To me it looks like there is not enough or no clearance between the valve retainer and bottom of the rocker arm. There needs to be clearance there for everything to move and expand. There is a lot going on there than what meets untrained eye at first. Rocker Arm design and Push Rod length play big role here. Do yourself a favor and check / read up on all of this before it costs you another failure.
Tony - appreciate the input. Checked the clearances and no issue. Further, if there were clearance issues or incorrect pushrod length I would really question Blueprint’s entire engine build. There’s a reason I paid good $$ for a fully assembled and dyno’d BP engine.
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Originally Posted by
mgk172
UPDATE: Blueprint sent all parts out within a few days. Put in a full day yesterday getting everything put back together and she fired right up! Just in time for a sunny 70 degree day here in southeast PA.
…Now for the rest of the story. Went for a short checkout cruise and got gas ($5.19/gal for 94!) and came home. Lost the clutch as I was turning back onto my street.

UPDATE: The clutch MC was taking a crap, which was the same MC I rebuilt while still in go kart. Swapped out the Wilwood for a Tilton and she seems to be working flawlessly. The changeout was a PITA!
Yesterday was a beautiful, sunny day perfect for a drive. I took the Mrs out for a long drive and lunch along the water with a stop at a local brewery.
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Originally Posted by
mgk172
UPDATE: The clutch MC was taking a crap, which was the same MC I rebuilt while still in go kart. Swapped out the Wilwood for a Tilton and she seems to be working flawlessly. The changeout was a PITA!
Yesterday was a beautiful, sunny day perfect for a drive. I took the Mrs out for a long drive and lunch along the water with a stop at a local brewery.
That's good to hear, I think I'm going to bite the bullet and install Tilton mc's now before I regret it later.
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Took a bit to get the wilwood out, but the Tilton went in fairly easy. The best advice I can give is drop the fuse panel and use a crows foot.
I’m still smiling ear to ear from my drive yesterday!
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Bout time you got that car on the road
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