MAIN FUSEBOX AND HARNESS “DIETING” - Posting this from another thread of mine for reference, thanks to everyone for chipping in on this information

IGNITION/START SWITCH CONNECTORS:
1. Completely removed the Brown (ALTERNATOR IGN) and large red alternator (ALTERNATOR FEED) wires, which includes the Solenoid wire which is the other 1/2 of the large alternator wire
2. The small blue “EFI CRANK PWR”, Left the other, slight larger, one as that goes to the clutch safety switch for starting. I will tie my starter wire (purple) coming from the digital guard dawg into this so that the clutch needs to be in for the starter to crank. This part seems different than how the Coyote’s work, so will leave the FFR blue wiring/clutch safety switch intact so I don’t crank while in gear.

HOT ROD COLUMN CONNECTOR
- Pulled all those wires out of there, where they tied into other connectors, I cut them, capped, and shrink tubed them but left enough length (2” or so) in case I’d ever need to tap into the wire for any reason or repurpose that position on the connector

SENDING UNITS/ELEC CHOKE CONNECTOR - **ONLY IF YOU HAVE SPEEDHUT GAUGES**
- Removed:
1. Oil temp (light blue) - capped this at the dash harness connector, completely removed the other side of this from the dash harness
2. Oil Pressure (gray) - capped this at the dash harness connector, completely removed the other side of this from the dash harness
3. Water Temp (dark blue) - capped this at the dash harness connector, completely removed the other side of this from the dash harness
4. PURP-COIL—>TACH (purple) - This wire is a free wire in the EFI/COIL bundle and removed this entirely in the main harness as well as from the dash harness as my Tach wire comes off of my Distributor (MSD) and will connect directly to the tach gauge

What I Kept:
1. All the 3 grounds for the sensor wires on the dash harness side of things that I removed in case I need them, probably won’t and will trim them out as needed when I install everything, but no need to diet them out for now
2. Fan Thermo Switch (Dark green) - going to tie the Terminator X fan control ground relay wire into this wire - that way the Terminator X will control my fan from its temperature sensor, and I can set the parameters for temps it turns on/off in the Terminator X (I think the FFR sensor is on at 185 F and off at 150 F)
3. Electric Choke Wire (Tan) - This runs back to the fusebox to a fused line - I will keep this one and use it to power something else that needs a fuse
4. ORG-EFI OR COIL - This wire is in the bundle of EFI/CHOKE free wires (not going to a connector) and kept this one as it also goes to the fusebox to a fused position fed by Ignition power - so will use this to power something else that needs a fuse

DASH HARNESS
- I have the Speedhut gauges that come with their own sending units, and an old enough set that mine came with all the jumpers and dimmer, for better or worse, will be wiring those up today.
- Because of this I was able to pull the sensor wires out of the harness since the Speedhut gauges come with their own sending units that plug right into the gauges EXCEPT:
- Fuel level - this will come from the fuel level sender in the RF harness
- Speed Sensor - My Speedhut gauge for speed is a VSS version—not the GPS version (you can send in your GPS version and they will convert it to a VSS version for the cost of shipping alone)—so I kept the Gray and Green Speedo wires for now which connect to my transmission computer that sends the speed and controls the reverse lockout on the T-56
- Obviously I’m keeping the Dash lights (white), Gauge power feed (Brown), and Speedo-Clock Mem (Red) wires so that simplifies things a bit, complicated by running the sensors out of the engine bay and to the respective gauges.
- Also as mentioned above there are about 4-5 ground wires in the dash harness that I will keep in there for now and trim back once its wired.

So out of the 90 or so connections coming out of the main harness I pulled 16 out, not including grounds which will get pared back as I install things. It is crazy how much smaller and more manageable things are now. I don’t find pulling all the coverings off of the harness get into it as complicated, as things are taped and zip-tied together underneath, so it isn’t like its all going to fall apart into a bundle of wires, you can selectively take things apart, re-route as needed, then re-wrap….the wires everywhere problem happens when you go to install it all