Dave, I think I have what you are looking for. It took me a while to find this when I was looking. This will divert the flow from one side to the other. I 3D printed some adapters for mine to reduce the diameter of the two outlets. I also have the same actuator you are using. I will probably 3D print something to mount the actuator to the vent.
Dave, I think I have what you are looking for. It took me a while to find this when I was looking. This will divert the flow from one side to the other. I 3D printed some adapters for mine to reduce the diameter of the two outlets. I also have the same actuator you are using. I will probably 3D print something to mount the actuator to the vent.
I couldn't find these before when searching but they are supposed to use these to operate them. In case you didn't want to do an actuator or wanted to move the actuator to a remote location.
I couldn't find these before when searching but they are supposed to use these to operate them. In case you didn't want to do an actuator or wanted to move the actuator to a remote location.
Today I worked on installing a couple more panels; passenger floor and the inner passenger footbox panel. I then worked on the steering shaft install, which went in with no issues at all.
I also did another video update and posted it to my YouTube channel:
I installed the trunk liner material in the drop trunk. I think it looks pretty good.
I then tackled the A/C lines that run from the evaporator to the front of the foot box. I bought the MasterCool took FFR recommends in the manual, and it made crimping the hoses pretty easy.
Now if they don't leak, I'll be thrilled! Once those lines were done, I was able to finish up the foot box panels on the passenger side.
The material in the drop trunk looks really clean. As always, you're making good progress. I waited as long as I could to button up my foot boxes (in fact one is still open) but it's nice when they are closed up.
The material in the drop trunk looks really clean. As always, you're making good progress. I waited as long as I could to button up my foot boxes (in fact one is still open) but it's nice when they are closed up.
Thanks, Tim. The trunk liner material has held up really well in my MK4, and I had it sitting on a shelf so I decided to use it for the drop trunk and inside the glove box.
I hope it isn't a mistake closing up the passenger foot box already, but I think everything mechanical is done in the passenger foot box. The top will stay open until I have a good idea of what I need to do with the electrical connections for the heater and A/C.
Today I worked a bit more on wiring harness modifications, including lengthening the dash side of the rear harness. After laying in the main harness, I discovered that my routing of the rear harness ended up making the rear harness about 6" too short. Since I was going to have to extend it, I also swapped the two connectors over to a single Deutsch connector and I eliminated the speed sensor wires that I wasn't using.
I also received the linear actuator and started thinking about how I could fabricate a bracket for it. Here is the actuator in action:
I got a full day in the shop today and worked on several things. First, I installed a vent hose for the rear differential using items other builders have used that made for a clean install.
Next up I worked on completing the brake reservoir plumbing and installation. I swapped out the 3/4" MC with a 13/16" for the clutch and then connected the hoses from the MCs to the fittings in the front of the foot box.
Next, I mounted the reservoirs using 3/16" multi-grip-range stainless steel rivets coated with TEF-Gel to mount the bracket to the frame. Those rivets were a bear to pull until I upped the air pressure to my riveter.
Now for the test-fit on the bezel:
And finally, connecting the AN lines from the foot box to the reservoirs.
Finally, I worked a bit more on the main and dash harnesses, but nothing really interesting to show there.
There is something very gratifying about laying that milled bezel on the cover and admiring how snappy it looks. My Milwaukee pulled those big rivets but let me know it was giving it all it had.
I skip the most of the coupe build threads because I'm building an MK4 and already spend too much time here reading and learning. But, I keep stopping in periodically on your thread. So impressed with your attention to detail and quality of work. Will continue to follow. Very impressed Dave.
Pat
MK4 complete kit Nov 2024, Blueprint 347, TKX, Hyd clutch, IRS, 3.55, touring shocks, 17" wheels, 11.65 brakes, Build Thread
I skip the most of the coupe build threads because I'm building an MK4 and already spend too much time here reading and learning. But, I keep stopping in periodically on your thread. So impressed with your attention to detail and quality of work. Will continue to follow. Very impressed Dave.
I think I have the actuator mounting figured out to work with the shut-off Y fitting I bought.
Click the image to play the short video:
I also ordered the diverter valve that Brent found and will look at that one as well before settling in on the approach I'll go with.
Next up, brake bleeding. I have to admit that this gave me quite a bit of grief today. First step was to bench bleed the master cylinders. For this, I use a piece of 3/16" tubing with a fitting on one end and the open end dumping into the reservoir.
Fill the reservoir and then pump the brake pedal until no more bubbles come out of the end of the tubing. Next, install the hard lines back to the master cylinders. Connect the bleeder cap to the rear reservoir and add fluid to the bleeder. Pressurize the bleeder to 12-15 PSI and then go to the caliper on the right-rear and attach a catch bottle and crack open the bleeder screw. Do both upper bleeders on the rear calipers! This is what caused me grief today, only doing one of them. After both rear calipers are done, repeat the process on the front circuit. Remove the pressure bleeder and top up the reservoirs and check for a firm pedal and any leaks. Before I closed up the shop, I placed a clean paper towel on the floor under the master cylinders and one under each caliper to help identify if I have any leaks that take a while to show themselves.
I was wondering if both of those rear bleeders needed to be opened. I am in the process of assembling my brakes now. I like your approach for bench bleeding.
Dave, like the engineering on the motorized damper. Also working on something similar to what you did but ended up using a servo and rotor dial from a heater control valve (can open in varying positions). IMG_7215.jpgIMG_7214.jpg
Dave, like the engineering on the motorized damper. Also working on something similar to what you did but ended up using a servo and rotor dial from a heater control valve (can open in varying positions). IMG_7215.jpgIMG_7214.jpg
Thanks! The actuator I am playing with will do the same. I plan to use a momentary switch instead of the switch that I'm testing with. What motor are you using?
Today I dug into the wiring a bit more seriously. Based on many recommendations from other builders, I removed the convolute from the main harness, but left it on some of the branches for now.
This definitely makes it a lot easier to handle and route than with the convolute on. I started with the dash harness connections (three connectors) that contain the turn signal switch, hazard switch, horn switch, headlight switch, and a few other things like the gauge feed, dash light feed, a bunch of grounds, and a couple of +12 v constant and switched +12v wires. I'd already swapped the connector with the turn signal and hazard wires to a Deutsch connector, so that stayed. I also decided to leave the headlight connector in place. but after removing most of the sending unit wires, I simply spliced the rest of the wires and removed the third large connector completely. When laid out, I can now make the switch connections without dealing with the excess wires in the way.
Here is what I removed:
I also made another video update that I posted to my YouTube channel:
This morning I spent a little time laying out the wiring for my turn signals, hazard flashers, and headlight dimmer switch. I'm using the I.E. 427 turn signal kit from Frank, which can operate the turn signals and has two additional switches built in. One is a momentary switch that is activated by pulling the turn signal lever forward. I'm going to use this to switch my hi/low beams for the headlights. Frank includes instructions for this feature that requires a simple relay. Since I already had the IDIDIT Dimmer relay, I'm going to use that, which will add a flash-to-pass feature when the headlights are off. The second switch on the turn signal kit is an on/off switch on the right-hand side of the kit that is a round knob that you pull out to turn it on and push it in to turn it off. For those of us old enough to remember, this is how the hazard flashers were activated on most cars until we got crazy with electronics. To use this switch for the hazard flashers, you need to add a DPDT relay, which Frank describes in detail in his instructions. Here is what it will all look like when everything is integrated:
Correction: The stalk momentary switch will NOT work directly with a typical relay to switch low/high beams as I stated. Frank's instructions are for the secondary switch (on/off) that can be used with a standard 5-pin relay. To use the stalk momentary switch, you need to do a bit more complicated wiring, like what Russ Thompson provided diagrams for with the momentary button on his system. This is because the momentary switch is not a latching switch. The IDIDIT relay that I'm using will work as I intend with the momentary switch, but I just wanted to add this clarification.
I started looking at the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wiper kit and, like others that have also used the FFR wiper kit, find this to be a significant upgrade. After attaching the motor to the case, I made up a set of short wires to test the motor.
I'll be using the same approach Paul and others have done with rubber shock mount stand-offs to mount the unit to the firewall. I think this approach has multiple advantages:
1. It aligns the unit better with the position of the wheelbox with minimal bends in the tubing.
2. It isolates the motor from the inside of the car, which should help with noise.
3. It will allow for removal of the unit from the firewall without reaching up under the dash from inside the car.
The provided switch also has a push-to-wash function that I'd like to use. I've tried all my search tricks but haven't found any specific information on what washer kit and nozzles folks have found that work well on the Coupe. I see various kits on Speedway and Summit that look like they would work that are in the $60 range. I also see much cheaper kits on Amazon that may or may not do the trick, but question if the lower price means they would be more likely to fail sooner than the more expensive kits. Also, which nozzles work well as cowl-mounted option for the Coupe. Any suggestions from those that have installed washers on the Coupe would be helpful.
Finally, my daughter sent me some new garage swag for my birthday!
The provided switch also has a push-to-wash function that I'd like to use. I've tried all my search tricks but haven't found any specific information on what washer kit and nozzles folks have found that work well on the Coupe. I see various kits on Speedway and Summit that look like they would work that are in the $60 range. I also see much cheaper kits on Amazon that may or may not do the trick, but question if the lower price means they would be more likely to fail sooner than the more expensive kits. Also, which nozzles work well as cowl-mounted option for the Coupe. Any suggestions from those that have installed washers on the Coupe would be helpful.
I've done two washer installations. Looking at various options for the Mk5 now myself. For my Coupe, I used a Denso 060800-0550 reservoir with built-in pump. A nice piece from Amazon. But listed now as no longer available. See it listed on some RV and truck service sites. But I don't know how aggressive I'd be to pursue those. For the truck build, I used a Chase Bays Compact Windshield Washer Reservoir / Intercooler Sprayer with a type one bracket. It's relatively small but a very nice welded aluminum reservoir with pump. At $150 not cheap. But may consider it again. For nozzles, same story as the Denso part. I used nozzles from Amazon but showing as not available. Looking now at probably using Dorman 47237 nozzles. Similar to the ones I've used before. There's a particular all-in-one tank/pump/nozzle setup on Amazon that's under $20. Whole bunch of sellers are showing the same part. I'm afraid it might be one of those you get what you pay for situations. But maybe it would be suitable. My build buddy rigged up wet wipers on his challenge car. I'm going to take a look at that again, but probably won't go that way.
The pushbutton function in the provided wiper switch works fine for the washers. Used it on the truck. On the Coupe, I installed a Cole Hersee 75600-04 switch which is very trick. OE style functions with intermittent speeds, wiper does several sweeps when you push the washer button, etc. But haven't installed one since. It's $100 or so and a bit bulky.
Last edited by edwardb; 02-25-2026 at 04:48 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Thank you for the great reply to my questions. I do like the look of the Chase Bays reservoir and motor. I'm definitely leaning that direction ... we'll see. I also like the features of the Cole Hersee switch you mentioned but will likely pass considering how little the wipers are actually used and the premium for available space. Now to see if I can find a more attractive knob, although the provided one will work just fine.
Today I took some time to work on the mounts for the wiper motor that I will be using. I also cannibalized the bracket that came with the kit to create two simple extensions.
Here is what the setup looks like loosely put together:
And one from the back-side. The large washers and flat screws will be all that is on the inside of the firewall.
I confess! I used one of the cheap washer kits from Amazon. Less than $20.00 if I remember right. Came complete with plastic reservoir, wiring harness, all tubing and connections and the nozzles. Easy install. You do get what you pay for but I figured I would not be using them much so I didn't want to spend much. IMO they work fine. I think I have used them twice in three seasons of driving.
Well, I ignored the little voice in the back of my head telling me to stop and think before you drill. As a result, I'll have a few extra holes in my firewall to deal with. When I was positioning the wiper motor, I forgot about the firewall extension. Sure enough, my motor placement was right in the way.
Before I drill any more holes, is there anything else I need to consider before trying again?
Well Dave, you did exactly what I did. I thought I covered it in my thread but perhaps not. I don't know where you are planning on putting your fuse box and other Control Pack accessories but those can cause problems as well. Many put them on top of the foot box so real estate gets scarce in a hurry.
Well Dave, you did exactly what I did. I thought I covered it in my thread but perhaps not. I don't know where you are planning on putting your fuse box and other Control Pack accessories but those can cause problems as well. Many put them on top of the foot box so real estate gets scarce in a hurry.
I'm sure you covered it, but I likely just missed it. Since I'm using the stand-offs, I may be able to use one of the holes to run the wires through with a small grommet. None of the holes will be seen by anyone but me.
I figure if I am not drilling an errant hole through something, once in a while, then I must not be building anything.
My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021. I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.
After spending some time reviewing my options, I went ahead and drilled four more holes in the firewall to mount the wiper motor in what I believe to be its final location. I also ordered some plugs for the "extra" holes that are not covered by the firewall extension. They will be behind the motor assembly, so not seen. I'll try to use the hole that is between the extension and the wiper motor to feed the wires for the wiper/washer from inside the car to the engine compartment.
It will need to come back off to complete the setup down the road and get packed with grease before putting it back in place.
After spending some time reviewing my options, I went ahead and drilled four more holes in the firewall to mount the wiper motor in what I believe to be its final location. I also ordered some plugs for the "extra" holes that are not covered by the firewall extension. They will be behind the motor assembly, so not seen. I'll try to use the hole that is between the extension and the wiper motor to feed the wires for the wiper/washer from inside the car to the engine compartment.
It will need to come back off to complete the setup down the road and get packed with grease before putting it back in place.
Dave, I'm enjoying watching your build. Thanks so much for documenting the wiper motor install so well as I'm ready to do that myself...was thinking I'd need the body on to place the wiper motor, but I see exactly what you did clearly and am just going to follow your excellent guide here - I love it...and yes I have several errant holes in my car as well that only I know about . I'd like to get the motor mounted so I can mount more electronics and circuit breakers to the firewall without getting in the way of the wiper mounts.
I'm sure Paul documented the rubberized mounts but if you have a part number for those I'd happily take it. I remember seeing Namrups (Scott) car in the flesh and he had also made 1 inch spacers for the wiper "rail" so it was appropriately spaced away from that upper firewall piece. For the wiper washer I purchased the Chase Bays reservoir that Paul used on his truck a couple years ago at this point, not sure the price now. Obviously $$ but very nice part, ordered the nozzles he used as well, just assuming they will work because of the source
Dave, I'm enjoying watching your build. Thanks so much for documenting the wiper motor install so well as I'm ready to do that myself...was thinking I'd need the body on to place the wiper motor, but I see exactly what you did clearly and am just going to follow your excellent guide here - I love it...and yes I have several errant holes in my car as well that only I know about . I'd like to get the motor mounted so I can mount more electronics and circuit breakers to the firewall without getting in the way of the wiper mounts.
I'm sure Paul documented the rubberized mounts but if you have a part number for those I'd happily take it. I remember seeing Namrups (Scott) car in the flesh and he had also made 1 inch spacers for the wiper "rail" so it was appropriately spaced away from that upper firewall piece. For the wiper washer I purchased the Chase Bays reservoir that Paul used on his truck a couple years ago at this point, not sure the price now. Obviously $$ but very nice part, ordered the nozzles he used as well, just assuming they will work because of the source
P.S. Love the carbon fiber power probe!
Thank you. I'm happy to share my goofs to help my fellow builders. Here are the rubber mounts I bought:
I'm also leaning toward the Chase Bays tank, which is $150.00, but looks like it is small enough to fit in the rapidly disappearing space in my engine bay. I may actually try to follow Brent's example and use the top portion of the FFR coolant tank welded to the washer tank and bring it through one of my engine bay covers with a trim ring that matches the triple reservoir setup.
I'm also leaning toward the Chase Bays tank, which is $150.00, but looks like it is small enough to fit in the rapidly disappearing space in my engine bay. I may actually try to follow Brent's example and use the top portion of the FFR coolant tank welded to the washer tank and bring it through one of my engine bay covers with a trim ring that matches the triple reservoir setup.
Dave
I just used an extra brake reservoir for the tank and an AC Delco washer fluid pump, as I did not figure I would need much fluid.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
. I'd like to get the motor mounted so I can mount more electronics and circuit breakers to the firewall without getting in the way of the wiper mounts.
