MJS Coupe Build

[lewma]

Not sure if the pump counts as an accessory ? Does your ignition key click one more time to prepare to start ?

[burchfieldb]

That gray looks really sharp! I would be curious if removing the upper radiator brow reduces engine bay heat.

[edwardb]

With the gen 3 coyote , on Accessory should the fuel pump cycle at all? Not hearing anything when testing and verified the green fuel pump wire is spliced in correctly.

No and not likely. The RF fuel pump circuit is on the IGN portion. So the fuel pump relay won't be energized until you're in the ignition sequence. Assuming you have the RF fuel pump relay tapped in as part of the Coyote fuel pump circuit, which is normal. On my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe with the DGD (just started and ran earlier, beautiful day out) I don't have to do anything other than unlock via the key fob and the red light on the start button comes on. Then push the brake pedal and clutch down and it starts blinking. Push to start. I don't use ACC. At least not intentionally. On the fuel pump with the Gen 3, when energized it runs very briefly. Easy to miss. The pump only runs continuously during the start sequence and when the engine is running. For the first start, you may get a somewhat long cranking time before it goes. Many have reported this. Some will hot wire the pump in advance of the first start to get the lines and fuel rails filled to reduce initial cranking. I haven't done it, but something to consider if you feel like it's cranking too long.

[lewma]

No and not likely. The RF fuel pump circuit is on the IGN portion. So the fuel pump relay won't be energized until you're in the ignition sequence. Assuming you have the RF fuel pump relay tapped in as part of the Coyote fuel pump circuit, which is normal. On my Gen 3 Coyote Coupe with the DGD (just started and ran earlier, beautiful day out) I don't have to do anything other than unlock via the key fob and the red light on the start button comes on. Then push the brake pedal and clutch down and it starts blinking. Push to start. I don't use ACC. At least not intentionally. On the fuel pump with the Gen 3, when energized it runs very briefly. Easy to miss. The pump only runs continuously during the start sequence and when the engine is running. For the first start, you may get a somewhat long cranking time before it goes. Many have reported this. Some will hot wire the pump in advance of the first start to get the lines and fuel rails filled to reduce initial cranking. I haven't done it, but something to consider if you feel like it's cranking too long.

Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

[edwardb]

Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

I didn't do anything special. That's just how it works for me. Now in the 5th season, so kind of used to it. One variable that may/may not be in play -- I have my keyfobs in manual mode. I have to push the button of the fob to disarm the system. I found the automatic (e.g. proximity) method wasn't discriminating enough. The system would recognize the keyfob and disarm even when it was in the house or when at car shows.

[MSumners]

Perfect. Thanks everyone. Start time tomorrow

[MSumners]

Mine is 2x button pressed to get to the flashing light “start ready” as well. I think it had to do with the specific options on the DGD ordered.

Paul, i have the same DGD. I need to push the button 2x before it's ready to push/hold to start. Did you get around the 2x putton press ( cycles through accessories )

mark

[MSumners]

For those that have used Lund for the tune, have you been happy with it ? And is this what you ordered?

[460.465USMC]

Initially, my Gen 3 fuel pump did not cycle unless the ignition was in the Run position (I also had a DGD ignition). But, that was only AFTER first start. I was thrown off by this, because I couldn't hear the fuel pump cycle. Motor cranked over fine, and if I applied power directly to the fuel pump circuit in the RF fuse panel, the fuel pump would run. Something about the logic in the Coyote PCM doesn't INITIALLY or reliably trigger the fuel pump in the Run position. That was a common Gen 3 experience with my vintage, circa late 2021. Many folks on the forum experienced the same. My solution? I cranked the motor many times, short bursts each time. Once it started the first time (I use that term loosely, because the first few starts were little more than coughs and sputters), then the fuel pump would cycle for about one second in the Run position every time.

[MSumners]

I feel like cranking over the coyote for the first time will basically be the adult version of a jack-in-the-box

[PNWTim]

I'm thinking more like roulette with about 10K on black...

[MSumners]

First start was a bust! Cranked over for awhile, sputtered once, then the battery was essentially dead.
On the trickle and will try again tomorrow.

[JimStone]

You've got this!!

[burchfieldb]

I had the same issue the first time I rolled my engine over. I had to switch to a larger/better battery.

[PNWTim]

Especially if you're battery was a bit drained down from sitting for a while. Charge it up and let er rip!

[MSumners]

First start /go cart successful. Trying to upload the video
Not too dramatic I did have a small coolant leak off one of the gates clamp connections on the upper rad hose as well as a small fuel leak at the connection to the fuel filter.
This battery I chose is indeed insufficient charged all night and the Noco charger said 100%, it at first didn’t want to turn over it was just the click-click-click , then second time turned enough to fire it up but seemed rather lame. Not going to deal with it and get stranded , already ordered a replacement.
First impression is wow this thing has a crazy amount of power, and is loud but not as loud as I thought it was going to be using the FF pipes. Before I switch them out I’m going to take some decibel readings from a fixed point then repeat with the gasn pipes. Curious to see the difference.
Couple things to sort and retest then I’ll be checking through all of the lights before moving on the the body section.

[PNWTim]

Success! I am curious if you are going to try and reshrink the clamp? I don't know if it's possible (I have never tried it) but curious if it works. I flipped back through your thread and didn't see what type of battery you used but probably wise to do something about it. Maybe before junking it double check that all your starting circuit connections are solid. It should spin that engine easily.

[MSumners]

I’ll try hitting the fitting with the heat gun again very possible part of it didn’t get fully set on the first round. Connections for the battery and grounds are all solid and cables are oversized AWG so no issue there. Same issue tonight would hesitantly turn the engine over. My golf cart needs a new battery anyway so picked up a new larger one and I’ll just switch them out, plus the new one has top and side posts so I’ll just run the accessory remote lines from those.
Still have a fuel leak on the output side of the fuel filter at the fitting attachment. Going to try a new fitting first before tearing anything else down. It is clearly beyond the answer being ‘ just tightening it a little more’.
Only other issue I’m waiting to hear back from speedhut on a defective sender unit connection which buggered up the oil pressure input. After those things more go-cart laps and retesting the rad hose leak.

Success! I am curious if you are going to try and reshrink the clamp? I don't know if it's possible (I have never tried it) but curious if it works. I flipped back through your thread and didn't see what type of battery you used but probably wise to do something about it. Maybe before junking it double check that all your starting circuit connections are solid. It should spin that engine easily.

[MSumners]

De-bugging about complete. All gauges up running normal, sealed the small coolant leak by re-heating the gates grip and for now have a worm clamp on backup. New fitting on the fuel filter and recheck probably tomorrow.

[MSumners]

Have about 10 miles on the go cart , the term throttle responsive comes to mind. Was able to seal up the small radiator hose leak and no recurrence on a few cycles since then. All gauges are working, correctly after warming up but interestingly the oil pressure gauge pegs at 100psi at startup for a couple minutes then slowly comes down to normal. The fuel filter I absolutely could not get to seal up after multiple tries, even put on a new fitting I still had a small leak at the outlet of the trick-flow filter. Decided enough was enough and switched out for an aeromotive filter with a new clamp. A few test runs and no leaks. Doing some you-tubing checking out how to charge the AC system so I can check it before putting the insulation on. Have been checking dB levels with the factory five pipes and going to recheck with the Gas'n pipes when I switch them out.

[460.465USMC]

Looking really good, sir. Glad you got your fuel leak solved. Hope I don't have that issue with my Trick Flow.

The oil pressure to 100 PSI on the Gen 3 is normal as far as I know. My Gen 3 did this as well. Works its way down as the oil temp warms.

[PNWTim]

It's really coming together now. I am not sure of this but it sounds like Coyotes may have an oil pressure bypass until the fluid warms to a certain point. Or they simply have really high oil pressure requirements because of the giant heads and valve train.

It will be interesting to see your results on the dB testing. I don't have Factory Five pipes and will be ordering my Gas'n pipes here in the next week or so. They must be a bit quieter because Georgie told me they do drop horsepower output by 10 or so hp due to the nature of the in-pipe mufflers.

The A/C charging is a little fiddly but pretty straightforward. Evacuate to check for leaks and remove contaminants, charge with the exact amount of refrigerant and enjoy the temperature controlled cockpit. Just find a good YouTube video and follow it step by step.

[MSumners]

Working on charging the AC. Picked up the required equipment at HF and pulled vacuum on the system for 30 minutes. To my absolute shock there is no evidence of a leak 1 hr later. I just assumed it would be Swiss cheese but all looks well and so far the budget crumpet looks like it did the job.

[MSumners]

Spoke too soon. 3 hrs pressure dropped to 25.

[PNWTim]

That is a super small leak. I would pull vacuum for 2 hours then hold and watch. See what/if the leak down is. Make sure your fixtures are tight on your gauges and fittings. A drop of 1 or 2 inches of mercury over 2 hours is pretty small. Easy for it to be part of your equipment.

There are test procedures we can go through if it won't hold vacuum. Best is with a nitrogen tank.

[PNWTim]

I just thought I would follow up on your thread since you commented on mine recently. I am guessing you've made some pretty good progress in the last 5 months? If you get a chance, let's see where you are in your build.

[MSumners]

not much progress in the last 5 months. Busy with summer activities but things are settling down and getting back at it. Started going back through the instructions. I was able to get the Gas'n pipes secured and checked the decibel levels as below. Noticeably much better but still not what I would call quiet but I think the sound is perfect. Of course this is open air and no panels or body on.
I was able to temporarily get the heat / AC controls hooked up. Verified the connections are correct but I only get 1 fan speed on any setting so I'll have to try to track that down. Once I verify the controls I still have to charge the AC. After that the short list is testing all the lights, painting the dash, making a new dash visor. Then I'll be close to getting into the body section.

[MSumners]

Working through testing everything including the lights and the heat / AC.
I have the connections to the heat / AC switches connected and the heat and fan settings are working. I can hear the valve open when i turn the heat knob and all 3 fan speeds work. I verified the wires on the AC toggle are correct but I notice with the accessory on / engine off the toggle doesn't light up. Is this normal or something mis wired?

[MSumners]

Any reason not to mount here?

[MSumners]

Thought about the other side but also thinking battery access would be easier with it here and more common.

[MSumners]

Correct for the moroso expansion tank?

[edwardb]

Correct for the moroso expansion tank?

Yes and yes. The one to the radiator is to a barb connection on the top LH corner. Remove the valve and replace with a barb adapter. I get that radiator hose from Ford. It has a one-way check valve. Not sure the purpose and I've seen some say they didn't use it and didn't have any problems. I don't know... Also don't know which way the check valve is in play. The Ford hose has markings for tank and radiator. So I install it that way.

[MSumners]

Thanks!. After reading more about the expansion tank and the fact that I already had this tank on-hand was a no brainer to switch out the system. I like the idea of a more foolproof filling and burping process. Got the barb adaptor on there just need the right hose clamps now. Someday I’ll need an oetiker clamp and actually find the correct size out of the 200 I have, but that day is not today.

[MSumners]

Decided to cerakote the pipes and some other parts to go with the color scheme. Below is before and after prep in the blast cabinet. I’m sure this is some sort of insult to these beautiful pipes. Followed the cerakote instructions and really turned out looking great. As usual 95% is the prep work. Even got my son doing some of the spraying. Next up is cerakoting the dash and some panels then re-assembling. Last couple weeks I’ve been going through the wiring and cleaning up / shortening a lot of the wiring.
I’m adding in door poppers wired in to the DGD remote so I have a couple relays on order and will get that system tested.

[MSumners]

Working on a few things. Finishing cerakoting the dash and some small pieces.
Wiring testing and attempt at reasonable clean-up continues.
I wired and tested the JDM-speed door poppers and got them working and connected through the Digital Guard Dog remote. I wired the driver door to the 'unlock' accessory output and the passenger door through the trunk output. As planned the unlock button engages the driver side and a longer hold on the button engages the passenger side.

[JimStone]

Nice job on the Cerakote. I did my headers and side pipes on Tuesday . Stuff does spray out easy, but it smells terrible! Garage still stinks

[MSumners]

If I never have to re-install the drivers side header I can’t say I’d be disappointed.
That top bolt third back from the front makes you question your life choices.
But done and hopefully just on there for a good long time.

[JimStone]

If I never have to re-install the drivers side header I can’t say I’d be disappointed.
That top bolt third back from the front makes you question your life choices.
But done and hopefully just on there for a good long time.

I hear you. Yesterday, It took me a full 2 hours to drill, tap, install a single 10-32 button head screw for a P clamp in a tight spot in the trans tunnel (with trans already installed).

I kept thinking, " is this a good use of my time?"

[MSumners]

Dash is in process getting installed. I’m using the dash panel from snakebite and overestimated the amount of room behind the accessory panel. I had planned to put some toggles on it but there isn’t enough room so I’m troubleshooting that. Between the wiring, gauges and the air ducts it will be completely stuffed behind the dash.

[burchfieldb]

Dash is in process getting installed. I’m using the dash panel from snakebite and overestimated the amount of room behind the accessory panel. I had planned to put some toggles on it but there isn’t enough room so I’m troubleshooting that. Between the wiring, gauges and the air ducts it will be completely stuffed behind the dash.

You could add the Snakebite lower transmission tunnel covers to gain a bunch more space.
https://snakebitemotorworks.com/prod...-tunnel-covers