I think I am modelling my interior off of yours, its beautiful. How did you mount the tunnel panels for accessibility?
So the top panel is cut in half which makes it lighter and easier to get out without moving the dash. Really no trick, the bottom panel sits flush and will have two black SS screws holding it in place which actually holds it snug. The top piece naturally sits over the front piece lip, that piece has two more screws on the side holding it. These four screws actually hold everything nice. The last part is my radio sits on the cross bar under the panel which provides an another natural layer of support when the radio is in the panel. So the panel can’t slip down.
I ran into a bad situation yesterday and today. I removed my pipes and completed my body install which was fairly straightforward. I went to work on my pipes first after installing the body. Drivers side actually fit perfect in the pre cut outs, it needs a little trim for clearance but fit was great.
I moved to the passenger and immediately noticed it was almost three inches high in order to mount the pipe to the coupler. I thought that’s weird, so I checked all my engine mounts and body mounts to make sure I wasn’t crazy. I then trimmed approx an 1/8” away from the cutout to attempt to make it work. At this point I knew something was really not ok. Starred at it all day and racked my brain, I finally called FFR and spoke to Dave.
I started to tell him what was going on, before I finished he asked if it was to high which I replied yes. Apparently the passenger side 351 headers are not correct or bad specs from the vendor which FFR was aware of. I’ve talked about the lack of communication before in my thread, if FFR was aware why not let potentially affected customers know this could be a problem. It would have saved me hours of time, more scratches on my pipes from messing with flanges, pipes and couplers trying to make what turned out to be an impossible connection.
I was told they will get back to me in a few days for a fix, the only fix is new headers or at least passenger side. I’m praying this won’t be months and months waiting for a header. I’m dead in the water at this point with no estimate from FFR.
This was somewhat demoralizing after spending the last four months 6 hours a day to get to this point for this to kill my progress. On a positive not my wheels and tires are supposed to ship next week after four months.
For all you builders with a 351 Mark V, I would check your headers carefully.
Just another update since I’ve received a few emails and messages about the build. I’ve been finishing up some panel adjustment and lighting getting ready for the NC registration process hopefully. Paint will soon follow.
I’m still waiting for an answer from FFR engineering on what the fix is for the mis aligned passenger side header. I called again today and asked for a new header, but was told it’s with engineering and they can’t send another header. Which would indicate this problem might be widespread affecting every 351 based passenger side header they have shipped on Mark V kits.
In my very average size brain, the only fix can be a new header or some very bendy flange joint. I’m really frustrated this late in my build this is an issue, FFR is responsive in the fact they tell me it’s being worked on. But based on information about past problems, I’m a little scared this could be additional months of waiting which would be devastating since I will have waited six months for a paint appointment and need to get my registration process started.
So far FFR has been good and worked with my issues, I’m really keeping my fingers crossed this is a quick response and fix from FFR.
This was a follow up to questions about the dash placement on the Mark V. I originally used three screws to hold the dash in place during my build, I followed the contour of the bend with my dash during original mounting. The left and right corners were flush with the metal top, the center was approx half way on between the metal upon my original estimate. It turned out to be perfect with this orientation, none of the screws are visible with the body on. Getting the dash of might be difficult
, but I’m very happy with the orientation
Another update, FFR is supposed to get back to me with a fix for the passenger side Header mis alignment tomorrow. Been roughing in the hood, trunk and other body parts. No real surprises, the hood fits like a glove, the trunk has a slight bow to it. But all in all not bad fit for no trimming at all. I’m probably going to let the painter do all the final fit. The hood and scoop was sort of a challenge because everything is not perfectly molded if you know what I mean. So a lot of measuring and eye test. Sometimes the eye test is the final deciding factor since measurements can be tough on irregular items.
Doors are next and then back to the exhaust and window probably before the doors.
Regarding your trunk fit...take a look underneath and see of the pivot ends of the trunk hinge arms are contacting the underside of the rear deck ahead of the trunk lid and raising it upwards. This was the case on the first cars and although we reported it I don't know if it was addressed. If you find that there is contact just grind down the radius at the end of the arms so that it doesn't protrude beyond the chassis hinge tabs.
Regarding your trunk fit...take a look underneath and see of the pivot ends of the trunk hinge arms are contacting the underside of the rear deck ahead of the trunk lid and raising it upwards. This was the case on the first cars and although we reported it I don't know if it was addressed. If you find that there is contact just grind down the radius at the end of the arms so that it doesn't protrude beyond the chassis hinge tabs.
Yes, fit the windshield before the doors.
Jeff
Jeff thanks for the info, that makes a lot of since. I already noticed the radius was touching.
Quick question in your sniper screen mount. Does that allow you to remove it and use it from the mount? Where did you get it? I was going to tuck it away, or go with Bluetooth, but I like your placement. Thanks!
I had to throw the real wheels on after getting the windshield installed. So I’m going to work on the doors next and attempt to get it registered and titled. Then I will go over my to do list and pull the body off again for last minute inspections and tweaks. Drive for a few months and then off to paint in January or February.
Factory Five custom made me a ball flange to make the Header work for now, I’ll get the new header when available. The gap is to large on the passenger side but should be corrected when the new header arrives. Dan V and Travis worked hard to get me this piece, I appreciate the effort.
Looks incredible and I am super jealous of that MKV body.
I’m retired and sort of treated it like a full time jib and my father in law helped also. As it sits it was still 4 1/2 months. So by the time I get the doors sorted and everything else, I’m looking at approx 5 1/2 months. Probably 3 to 5 hours a day, not including research.
NC title and registration was a piece of cake. Took half a day with a visit to the Troopers for VIN verification and then a trip to the tag office for registration and title.
FFR was able to create a ball and flange socket for the passenger side header until I receive the new header sometime in the future.
I’ve really started opening up the beast 427 with spirited drives on backroads and some freeway tours. No problems with any major systems at this point.
Got the car professionally aligned in town. The car is so tight and handles like a dream, the one complaint is the steering is so light with PS it lacks feedback. I’m sure I will get used to it, but it’s a little strange.
Since I received the BP motor I had a pesky leak from the drivers side lower back corner valve cover. I purchased some Ansen covers that sealed up great and no leak anymore. Both sets of covers were torqued the same and had same gaskets. I REALLY LIKE THE ANSEN COVERS!
The body will come off in a few weeks for final work and the replaced prior to going to paint and body work. Here are a few pics.
Looks good. Congratulations on getting it driving. There are options for limiting the boost on your power steering. I don't know what pump BP installed, but some allow a spring to be cut reducing the pressure. I don't have experience. Only citing what others have described. Another option is an in-line valve from Heidts that some have installed.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Looks good. Congratulations on getting it driving. There are options for limiting the boost on your power steering. I don't know what pump BP installed, but some allow a spring to be cut reducing the pressure. I don't have experience. Only citing what others have described. Another option is an in-line valve from Heidts that some have installed.
Thanks, I was going to ask this question next. Hopefully others will chime in on options, it’s so light and not a natural feeling. I will say it works perfectly, I could turn the wheel with a toothpick.
I’m open to trying one of these options, hopefully someone can provide some concrete feedback on their experience.
First question…when it was aligned what was the caster set to? Second question…did Blueprint install a Ford or a GM Saginaw pump? Answer these and we can help answer you!
Been away for awhile, unfortunately had a few deaths in my family which has required a lot of travel. The Cobra has been dropped off for paint and body work. Now the wait begins for the finished product. Paint will be a deep burgundy candy red with a dark gun metal stripe. Here are a few pics dropping off the car in Ga. Michael Bowen has been very nice to deal with from Spotlight Customs. Looking at three to five months wait time.
Your build looks great, I have slowed down with the cold but want to get the brake lines in. I see how the lines go to and from the booster (yup ugly silver) but do you ever have to use the other two connections on the booster for anything? The ones with the rubber caps on them.
I've been working with my dash alignment (with body off) and was curious on the ballpark placement of the dash, you looked to have it nailed perfectly. I wasn't sure how much of the top frame hoop would be exposed or how low the body comes down to cover the dash?? Unfortunately, I didn't take a measurement prior to removing my body. Lessons learned as a first-time builder. I think what I see from your build is to line up the dash level to the metal edge of the frame hoop and it will be good?
With the carbon fiber dash, did you have to trim back the body at the dash to make room for the body to slide over the dash?
Also, could you share who did your leather work on the center console, that looks amazing!!
I've been working with my dash alignment (with body off) and was curious on the ballpark placement of the dash, you looked to have it nailed perfectly. I wasn't sure how much of the top frame hoop would be exposed or how low the body comes down to cover the dash?? Unfortunately, I didn't take a measurement prior to removing my body. Lessons learned as a first-time builder. I think what I see from your build is to line up the dash level to the metal edge of the frame hoop and it will be good?
With the carbon fiber dash, did you have to trim back the body at the dash to make room for the body to slide over the dash?
Also, could you share who did your leather work on the center console, that looks amazing!!
Thanks,
Eric
So the dash was actually easy, I just placed the CF dash against the metal bar and left enough meat to use black SS screws to attack the middle and each corner. The MV body covered the entire top lip of the dash which made the screws invisible. The body did not require any trimming it fit directly over the dash perfectly.
I had an upholstery guy I know do the center console to match my seats. But I was very happy with how it turned out.
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So here is a walk around video of my paint in progress. Hopping to have it back in a few weeks. Then I start all the details work to get everything completed.
So here is a walk around video of my paint in progress. Hopping to have it back in a few weeks. Then I start all the details work to get everything completed.
Mike had actually done another one in Randy Apple, I saw the one you did awhile after I committed to the color which just solidified my choice. We will see how it looks with the Bronze wheels I couldn’t believe the price for a gallon of that paint though! SHOCKING!!
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I couldn’t believe the price for a gallon of that paint though! SHOCKING!!