REDDRIG, your build looks great and really quick. You obviously know what you are doing. Im a few months behind you with number 15 of 30th anniversary. Im learning a lot about what to do and patience. Thank you.
REDDRIG, your build looks great and really quick. You obviously know what you are doing. Im a few months behind you with number 15 of 30th anniversary. Im learning a lot about what to do and patience. Thank you.
I appreciate the kind words, I honestly rely on the forum a lot. I’m getting ready to drop my motor in tomorrow. Just take one bite at a time, I try and research my next part of the build before I start that piece. My memory sucks, so it helps me keep a focus on the task at hand or I tend to see a squirrel.
Engine went in today, I will add a plus one to Ricks experience. My boom at the 1/2 ton setting was not long enough for a front entry, had to use the back door (side door). From the side it went in relatively easy with a little muscle to push the drivers side mount over about 1/2” to sit in the cradle and line the pins up. Didn’t break anything or mangle anything.
I spoke to Dan at FFR, he was mystified we are all having trouble with the front entry and the boom being to short. He said they used a standard 2 ton HF hoist to install the one they did on the video.
Either way I got it in. I’m a little shocked at just how tight the bay is with the engine in, my overflow canister is to tight by 1/8” of an inch. I’ll need to come up with another plan for that since the FFR overflow won’t fit with my fan shroud. I also wanted a little larger to pair with the 427.
I also have a loose install (bolts not tight) with the trans mount and driveshaft. Setting ride height tomorrow so I can see what my angle looks like. If anyone has some pointers on pinion angle let me know. It seems hard to get angles with the short driveshaft.
Reddrig, that looks great!
On driveline angle measurements-
1) for the pinion angle I found it easiest to measure on the face of the driveshaft adapter then subtract from 90. This is without the driveshaft.
2) For the driveshaft angle, I cut a piece of 3/4” steel square tube that was the length of the driveshaft including its ujoint “ears”. Then I spun the driveshaft till its ears were straight up and down, placed the square tube on top of both ears, spanning the length of the driveshaft and measured the angle with a magnetic angle gauge.
3) for engine angle I placed the same square tube and magnetic gauge on the vertical front of the harmonic damper, measured and again subtracted from 90.
Since you are trying to calculate ujoint angles, you can use the absolute measurement on the gauge and ignore the angle of the vehicle-it gets canceled when subtracting dshaft angle from pinion angle and engine angle from dshaft angle.
Last edited by BUDFIVE; 08-18-2025 at 05:34 PM.
BUDFIVE
Complete kit order 8/28/2023, Delivery 11/28/2023
347 Ford Dyno 10/12/2023
First Start 7/4/2024
Go Cart 8/31/2024
Licensed, Registered 6/17/2025
I’ve been slowing down to make sure I get all the motor/driveline stuff correct. Needed to shim my transmission approx 1/4”, bled the Clutch master cylinder and added fluid to the transmission. All of that was fairly easy. Since I have an IRS car, pinion angle is stationary or at least described by Dave at Factory Five. He said you want approx 1 degree at the driveshaft, he said your driveshaft should look almost straight from the trans tail to the Diff.
I’m using the Lokar throttle cable with the Lokar bracket for the Sniper 2, not cheap but a vast improvement over the supplied throttle stuff. Works nice and smooth. I’m waiting for some transmission lines from Mark at Breeze, he put together something for the new Mark 5. I’ll let you guys know how they turn out. He might add this to his catalog if they work well. The supplied lines were 5’ too long, maybe. 2’ but they were ridiculous.
Added my first carpet pieces to the passenger side foot box outer panel before I riveted it. It was much easier adding the carpet with the panel off.
Clutch has a nice feel and TKX feels nice during shifts. Wiring starts tomorrow, going to really focus on the wiring. I hate electrical problems later. I’ll keep everyone updated.
lReddrig, I see you are going to start the wiring fun. I notice you are using the push button turn signals that I am using also.
I notice in the assembly manual (page 504) that the taillight converter is not used with the column turn signal switch on the MK5. Since we are not using the provided turn signal switch, do we need to get a converter from FFR and use it in our build? The manual continues with how to wire up the converter, so is that what we do without the provided turn signal switch. The turn signal switch must somehow perform the function of the converter.
The Ron Francis Chassis Wiring Harness book indicates the converter was started in 2019 when FFR went to the rectangular LED taillights. The converter must have been necessary for the LED's, but the turn signal now must somehow accomplish this function.
I am a bit electrically challenged, so I will be following your wise counsel.
lReddrig, I see you are going to start the wiring fun. I notice you are using the push button turn signals that I am using also.
I notice in the assembly manual (page 504) that the taillight converter is not used with the column turn signal switch on the MK5. Since we are not using the provided turn signal switch, do we need to get a converter from FFR and use it in our build? The manual continues with how to wire up the converter, so is that what we do without the provided turn signal switch. The turn signal switch must somehow perform the function of the converter.
The Ron Francis Chassis Wiring Harness book indicates the converter was started in 2019 when FFR went to the rectangular LED taillights. The converter must have been necessary for the LED's, but the turn signal now must somehow accomplish this function.
I am a bit electrically challenged, so I will be following your wise counsel.
Ralph
So I bench tested my turn signals about two weeks ago. The system is stand alone and only requires direct wiring to the signals, so in short I believe it can be wired directly into the harness for full function nothing else required. The timer worked perfectly when I tested it, I did run it through a flasher relay which also worked. I’m no electrician either, but I think I can get this done with the RF harness. Ill keep you up to date on progress and tips if I have any.
Did you ask for those specific valve covers? I was looking going with that same package and on their website it says it includes "Ford Racing 427 Cobra aluminum valve covers".
I keep chugging along, I slowed down to do some housekeeping. I’ve been fighting a brutal summer in NC with lots of humidity and rust. I finally was able to get my build on the lift which helped me tidy some stuff up. Powder coated various fittings like sway bar bare metal stuff and some other bare metal parts.
Breeze automotive sent over my PS lines which I assembled and installed (ten times better than the 4’ section supplied by FF) Also finished up the fuel line, return less setup connected to a pressure guage and fuel dampener. Bottom coolant line is hooked up, used the corrugated with 2” heat shrink along with t clamps and standard clamps, used the rivet trick to prevent blowout. Waiting for my top section from Boig Motorsports. Connected the alternator, ran the wiring through my top channel for more wire concealment. My bottom transmission cover piece has worked well, much sturdier and tidy than mounting stuff to the upper firewall.
Overflow Canton canister is a tight fit, but should work out fine. Two rivnuts in the frame provides a secure mount.
Looks great coating those parts on post #25. I should have thought of that as also have the 30th. Im 15 of 30. WHat is the long metal part that you coated used for. I have it but didnt see it in the instructions anywhere yet. Thanks as always for your brilliant build thread.
Looks great coating those parts on post #25. I should have thought of that as also have the 30th. Im 15 of 30. WHat is the long metal part that you coated used for. I have it but didnt see it in the instructions anywhere yet. Thanks as always for your brilliant build thread.
I’m #11, not sure which part you’re referring to? Congrats on 15, hope we get our wheels soon! Have you heard anything?
Went to Trump National in Mooresville today for a local show. One of the community members brought out his Narrow Hip 66 Shelby Cobra, it was just shipped back from Pebble Beach where it took 4th. Apparently only 32 of the narrow hip versions were made.
Spent some time working on wiring. Sniper, Radio/Amp, FI, Ebrake and main harness all with power. Need to run a few sensors and lighting and I should be good to go. Front passenger side headers in, rest of the exhaust early next week. Used PDM with built in relays which helped clean up some wiring, didn’t need to mount relays in the engine compartment. Also has two switched terminals for accessories. Very happy with the PDM so far.
Received my upper Radiator tube from Boig Motorsports. This was the stock Mark 4 upper, Boig sent me some different attachment hoses to make sure fit was good. It looks really nice and fits good, he’s going to work on a lower for me in the near future. My canton cap is large but looks OK, it’s super easy to grab which I like.
Exhaust system is in, did a temporary mount to the frame in case it needs to be moved. Exhaust was fairly easy to install. I’m going to get a seat in soon. Engine fire soon.
Big day, fired up the motor. A few comments on the first start. I was not able to get oil pressure to show on my mechanical Guage during pre lube with no plugs in, when you go to crank the Guages have no power but once it returns to run the Guages have power. Was a little odd, but when the motor fired it immediately showed pressure.
I did put two of my plug wires on the wrong cylinder on the first start (I’m an idiot), it won’t run well like that. Figured that out quickly, fixed the wires and started and idled ok. I’m sure it needs to be under load and driving to start smoothing out. One thing I noticed was the O2 sensor is straight up and down on the FFR headers because of the bung location, all the literature wants it at a slight angle? Not sure if this is a huge deal?
All my mechanical Guages are functioning correctly, so the wiring was done correctly. The PDM Holly makes helped with the wiring making it almost idiot proof and also contained two internal relays for the fan and fuel pump.
61 constant PSI with my returnless setup, the dampener seems to provide very consistent pressure with no bumps.
Breeze fan shroud and flex a lite fan held the temp rock solid at 185. Funny thing is I had went through the start up wizard before my first start and saved the file, but my fan setting from the previous day were gone. I had to set the fan on and off temps again since I’m controlling my fan with the Sniper. Hope they are saving correctly. The fan settings don’t seem to be associated with the file for startup.
So far I was a 100% on no leaks, no radiator blow outs yet and no other leaks identified. Very happy day, will start go kart soon.
Well today opened a new era (Go Kart)! Fired the her up on the driveway, checked most of the systems and gave my partner the go ahead I was going for a drive. The alignment was way off (I’ll buy someone a steak dinner that is good with basic alignments) just come over and get me in the ballpark. The Mark V drove without a hitch. The motor gets better every time I drive it and the Sniper 2 goes through its learning curve. Put approx 10 miles on it today (I was quickly running out of gas). The Wildwood brakes were awesome with the brake booster, I’m glad FFR talked me into it now. I’m really like the Wildwood electric ebrake also.
I installed the front seat yesterday, after speaking with Mark at Breeze I opted to cut some 3/16 steel to make spacers to raise the seat. So I made 3/4” spacers for the front and 1/2” spacers for the rear. I have the adjustable seat rails which raised it slightly already, the slight rake also helps with comfort. I managed to hit three frame points on the seat install. My seat position seems to work for 6’2 down to 5’8. This seems to be the comfort range without getting to extremes on both ends.
My canton 2 Quart overflow tank has been nice. My PW steering pump is still whining a little but seems to be getting quieter as I bleed. The power brakes are soooo nice. Looking back the little extra work and loss of space was worth it. The Upper radiator tube from Boig is also a great piece.
I did have a drop of oil appear from the drivers side valve cover. It’s from the rear lower corner. Replaced the cork with a rubber gasket from Felpro, never been a fan of the cork. No other leaks to report other than that.
I need to rethink my shifter height or angle, too high for me at the moment. My test wheels and tires look a little bit out of place, still haven’t received my anniversary wheels and tires. I guess that’s a good thing since my alignment is off.
Congrats on your start! Mine was just a few weeks ago. I too love that parking brake. About your alignment……I got mine really close….not perfect…but close-ish using a super economical set up off of amazon, not that expensive maybe 30 bucks. Here are the links for what I used. I will get a proper alignment at some point but this gets it close.
Congrats on your start! Mine was just a few weeks ago. I too love that parking brake. About your alignment……I got mine really close….not perfect…but close-ish using a super economical set up off of amazon, not that expensive maybe 30 bucks. Here are the links for what I used. I will get a proper alignment at some point but this gets it close.
Quick update, I’ve got both the drivers and passenger seats mounted. Mark at Breeze had some suggestions for my seats. I took his advise and am really happy with how everything turned out. The drivers seat is slightly higher than the passenger seat. I cut some steel stand offs to raise the seats on the sliding rails and through bolted to the frame, I also added a slight angle to recline the seat. You can see the range of adjustability in the pictures.
I used one of Marks seat brackets for the passenger seat which ads a slight recline to the seat. I’ll be pulling them both out shorty for carpet and have everything (brackets) powder coated. My wife committed on how comfortable the passenger seat was.
Finished up some interior/carpet work in the cockpit. The FFR carpet turned out nice, the two aluminum panels will be wrapped in leather. The carpet was a lot of work, just took my time. Had to trim a lot to get proper fit for the seems. My speakers fit perfectly, even matched the bronze lettering to the frame on the speaker covers.
The trunk area is next for remaining panels, carpet and fit. I’m wondering if any Mark 5 owners have installed the rear elephant ears/splash guards, for some reason I can’t seem to understand how they fit, it’s hurting my brain(PLEASE HELP)!
Continued testing and learning phase for the motor, had to add a stiffer throttle spring for a crisper return on the throttle.
Finishing up the trunk carpet, chose to use some wood shop skills to frame the drop down cubby. Used a curly maple and stained it to a close match on the wheel. I powder coated the access covers, but I’m thinking of doing some in Carbon Fiber to match the dash to tie everything together.
The carpet required a fair amount of trimming and massaging. Used 3m Adhesive and Wedldwood glue on the carpet depending on the aplication and piece. More driving next week and I’m still waiting to see if anyone mounted the rear splash guards on the rear yet? I need a picture.
My interior is 90% finished, I’m still trying to massage some of the leather to get a little crease out. But I’m very happy with the results, this was my vision when I started my build. The Mark V makes placement of dash articles, radio, Ebrake and Sniper controls hard because of all the bracing. So you need to pick you accessories careful keeping in mind the limitations behind the panels.
Both tunnel panels are removable, which I wanted in case of maintenance down the road. The top panel under the dash was cut in half so I could remove it easier out from underneath the dash, the cut line is above any visual sight.
Diamond stitch is matching to the seats and eventual door panels. The Shifter ball will eventually be an Olive wood ball with the shift pattern engraved in the wood.
Seat belts were somewhat challenging on the passenger side, had to remove the seat since I could not access the mounts on the floor. The drivers side seat was simple since the seat is on tracks.
All in all I’m very happy, I was after a my version of a Restomod look. I wanted to keep it somewhat subtle but have some eye catching definition. Finally I did a function check, all systems were functioning. Going to turn my attention to the body soon before I start thinking of paint. Hope the photos inspire others with Mark V’s.
Terrific job. Your vision turned out perfectly. I could look at that interior all day.
Cheers,
Nige
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
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Originally Posted by UKSNAKE
