Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[F500guy]

Looking good Craig, amazing attention to detail on this, if I had 1/2 that skill....

[Nigel Allen]

I dont see a fuse in the start of that positive ECM cable. Should have one to protect the cable from burning up in a short circuit condition.

I am enjoying following your build, real craftsmanship. Thanks for documenting.


Cheers,

Nige

[cc2Arider]

Looking good Craig, amazing attention to detail on this, if I had 1/2 that skill....

Thanks Lance!

No special skills here...I'm just being the "tortoise" ...sometimes it feels like I'm taking too long to get things done

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

I dont see a fuse in the start of that positive ECM cable. Should have one to protect the cable from burning up in a short circuit condition.

I am enjoying following your build, real craftsmanship. Thanks for documenting.


Cheers,

Nige

Thanks for the encouragement Nigel

The Pro-Flo4 system has a built-in fuse hiding nearer to the ECM itself. I put it here 20250727_140500.jpg

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hi Nigel,

Hmmmm...I re-read your suggestion. Agreed -- if a short to ground occurs between the battery and the fuse (along the frame rail or similar)...no bueno. I'll need to make sure there is extra sleeving there...

I'm hoping that the Engineers at Edelbrock did an FMEA on that...otherwise hopefully the visible location of the layout would be enough for me to notice any rub-thru arcing marks...I'll have to keep my eye on it...

[gbranham]

About the limited space on the Driver's side...I completely agree! Thanks for the reminder In my zeal to make a "complete" car, I can lose track of the practicality of the build...I'm hoping that I can figure out how to install that panel after I install the body and windshield post.

If I'm following you correctly, you have some sort of aluminum plate (what you're calling a firewall extension) that's going to connect to those 4 rivnut-looking fasteners you've installed? Ok, but what Jeff is talking about is where your wiring is passing through this area; you need as much access as you can get to this area for your wrenches, so you can install your windshield posts once the body is on the car. It's already a difficult task without all this wiring in that area. With that bundle-o-wires where you have it, there's no way you're getting wrenches in there to tighten up your windshield post nuts/bolts.

Greg

[cc2Arider]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the post

I agree that this is a limited space area already. Does this installation plan make sense based on your experience?
1) prep for body install (disconnect wiring in that area, temporarily unfasten and lower the fuse panel, make sure all other impediments are out-of-the-way
2) install body (lots of steps here)
3) carefully lower the windshield posts into place
4) mark areas to cut off and drill (and tap)
5) mock the windshield into place, confirm fitment
6) install bolts, shims(in case too much gap is there...don't want to laterally stress for fear of cracking windshield), and maybe backing nuts
7) connect my wires in that area, going thru the "extension" panel (which is dangling at this point)
8) add bulb seal to the top of my "extension" panel
9) wrangle the "extension" panel into place and fasten
10) re-fasten the fuse panel
11) check work

I think I'm mostly concerned about step 9) since I don't know how much room is there (I'm hoping it is similar to the passenger side)

Craig C

[gbranham]

That should work, yep. I understand now about how you plan to disconnect the wiring temporarily to install the windshield. While I wouldn't personally run any more wiring in that area than is necessary, your plan should get you the access you need to install the windshield post fasteners. I will tell you my Ryobi cordless 18V ratchet was my best friend for this task.

Greg

[Jeff Kleiner]

Step 12) Give your body & paint guy a big bonus for having to deal with it

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Step 12) Give your body & paint guy a big bonus for having to deal with it

Jeff

Well played, Sir!!

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This weekend I spent some time figuring out how I was going to route the Defroster ducts under the cowl and behind the dashpanel. The kit includes a bent metal duct that just wasn't appealing to me. Something is needed for the Passenger-side defroster duct because there's just not enough room over there since the heater box is taking up all the room!

Soooo...I decided to experiment with some Kydex sheet my BroBro gave me

Here's a simple forming tool I cut diagonally on my mini bandsaw. It's 2" diameter stainless tubing I had left over from a home-improvement project 2in cut tubes used as defroster thermoform molds.jpg

Then some careful heating with a heatgun, and some coaxing into shape with some wooden dowels, here's the result.
Bottom, shiny-side view defroster bottom view after forming.jpg, and the textured top-side view defroster top view after forming.jpg.

It was good to see that the texturing was not changed...and this might be visible if seen thru the diffusers at the top of the cowl.

I may make some diffusers, but I sized these ducts to fit the Vintage Air defroster diffuser top pieces just-in-case.

Here's what they look like mocked into position defroster duct mock up1.jpg defroster duct mock up2.jpg defroster duct mock up3.jpg
The main thing that relieved my worries is that I can get this to fit to my liking. Granted, I'll need to rivet/bond these ducts to some Aluminum sheet to seal and shape the top side and to provide a screw hole location for the Vintage Air diffusers, but I'm very relieved that I think this will work! Downside: I will have to block off an opening on the heater box plenum because I just couldn't get everything to fit behind the dash and under the cowl. To make up for that, I've got a 2" Y-adapter so that the 2 diffusers will share a port. If I need to increase the flow to the defrosters, I believe I can simply shut off the heater vents individually under the dash We'll see...

Did I mention that this was a big relief to figure this out? Now I can confidently route the rest of the behind-dash wiring

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I had time for another small project that would test my measurement and spatial thinking skills

I wanted to fasten my Center Console to the trans tunnel thru the front part of the trans tunnel top panel that I cut in two. I also wanted to fasten to the "A" panel under the firewall. I had orientation/placement concerns since there's not a right angle to be found in the places I wanted to fasten...and I still can't decide on the upholstery for the "A" panel (carpet or leather). I simply broke the problem down into smaller tasks and made sure I was working in a precise way.

First: I simply took a worst-case thickness measurement and added shims under the fasteners to account for the varying thickness between the leather and the carpet. "squished" carpet was about 0.100"; leather samples that I liked was about 0.040". I knew that I'd wrap the bottom and rear flanges of the console with leather but without foam, and since I can't decide whether to choose carpet or leather for the "A" frame, it made sense to simply choose a shim thickness of 0.140". With that decided, I could clamp the panels together to mark for the holes...offsetting the front edge of the console back 0.140" with shims console to front trans tunnel positioning for drilling.jpg

Then drill the holes into the trans tunnel tubing with margin left over side-to-side to add riv-nuts and account for the console bottom flanges front trans tunnel clecoed into place.jpg

Then remove that panel and join to the console at the previously marked orientation, clamp, and drill into the console bottom flanges console to front trans tunnel clecoed together.jpg

Next, cleco it all together thru the top open part (I still need to decide on the console door shape and cut it out later) console bottom clecoed to trans tunnel1.jpg console bottom clecoed to trans tunnel2.jpg

It fits solid, and the next step is to add 0.080" shims to the holes I just drilled(to account for leather on the bottom of the console flange and leather on the top of the trans tunnel panel), then drill, cleco, and check the fit to the "A" panel, then drill for the riv-nuts, but that's for later this week. I'll also need to think about adding a decorative top piece to minimize any gaps to my existing hinged access panels on the underside of the dash...decisions, decisions...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I continue with my Center Console design and integration...but first, I finally decided to open up the slotted hole for the steering stem in the "blank" Dash panel to fit over the RT-tribute turn signal collar. All my measurements before told me to file only on one side, and I had doubts, but decided to just go for it, since I could get a replacement if I screwed it up

Here's the outcome opened up dashpanel for RT steering shaft collar.jpg I ended up using a combination of air-powered carbide bit and drum sander flap wheel.

Fits pretty well -- at least the same as before

Next, since I haven't decided if I'm going to wrap the dash panel with leather or coat it with satin crinkle-coat powder-coating, and the interface to the center console is on the same plane, I wanted to add a visual "break", and I chose a 5/16" high by 1.25" deep "L" in aluminum. I'll polish this eventually to match the gauge trim rings I also made a simple panel to cover the top of the console interior and to provide a good interface to my flip-down access panels under the dash...here's some pictures console top piece and trim1.jpg console top piece and trim2.jpg and with the access panels dropped down console top piece and trim3.jpg

With the shims added to mimic the leather thickness of the Console (plus my cosmetic trim piece), the Dash panel raised up by that distance, but I think it is within the guidelines of the Build Manual on the Dash Hoop corners. It kinda puts a doubt in my mind about my gauge layout since there might not be enough height between the steering stem collar and my "central" oil pressure gauge...I'll just have to "mind-surf" it some more

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I can report that I got all the rivnuts installed for my Center Console and front part of the trans tunnel top panel. I temporarily installed with my "usual" 8-32 Button heads...but getting a fastening tool inside the console was a real chore, so...

I spent most of the weekend making (what will later become) my Center Console door trim ring. It's made out of 1/4" aluminum that I had on hand. I'll try to bevel the edges to have a round profile and polish it for the final installation. It will serve also as the mounting point for the inside door flange and the hinge. I'm also hoping it will also hold the leather upholstery in-place...when I get to that point.

I decided to try my trusty old hand-held jigsaw with a metal cutting blade for this job. With patience, it worked! I could get the saw to turn the corners like I wanted

Here's a picture before I started to file and sand the edge smooth console door trim ring initial cut.jpg

With the confidence gleaned from that job, I took my air-powered "burp" body saw and cut the center console for a door opening. It took about as long, and I couldn't get it to turn the corners like the trim ring cutout, but it was done and I could get a small Allen wrench inside the console to remove it

The rest of the weekend was spent filing and sanding the cut that I just made, but it turned out how I wanted. If it reminds you of the 289 Cobra radiator opening -- it's intentional Here's a picture console with door opening cut.jpg

Lastly, here's a couple of pictures of the console interior showing where I fastened it center console fastened1.jpg center console fastened2.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I was able to get some detail work done on my center console this past week. First up: making a trim ring for the center console door opening. It's cut out of 1/4" Al that I had on-hand. Here's a rough initial shape and mock-up console trim ring mock-up.jpg then I refined the shape and width (thickness) a little console trim ring shape and width refinement.jpg

It's a good start...although I'm not yet set on the thickness. I think it could do with a little more thinning

Then I drilled/cleco'ed/fastened the console top panel. console top reinforcement panel fastened.jpgThis will also serve as a fastening reference for the dash panel and be a cosmetic piece under the dash panel. I can get a 1/4" nut driver on all of the console interior fasteners

Next post: trimming/fitting the throttle rod and linkage...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Just a quickie post about trimming my Forte' throttle linkage rod and confirming the alignment. My Brobro gifted me a table-top lathe a while back and I recently got some cutting bits for it. I tried a cut-off bit, but it didn't make much of a difference -- I'm not sure if my speeds/feeds were correct

I tried facing and edging bits which worked fine. I also discovered that my bits need to be shimmed up a few thou' to get the best results. Anyway, the material was pretty tough, so I also used a hacksaw and a file just to get the job done. Here's the result lathe trimmed throttle linkage rod.jpg

And here is the alignment I chose for the engine-bay side of things throttle linkage alignment1.jpg Those notes are from the last time I had the engine installed to check the throttle body linkage position. I can slide the rod out without disturbing the pivots or the fuel pressure regulator on the mid-passenger-side of the engine bay

Here's the alignment inside the top of the Driver's footbox throttle linkage alignment2.jpg

Next post: finally bending the dash panel outer edges...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I committed to bending the dash panel's outer edges this weekend, and the result turned out pretty well. No abrupt bends or bumps, but I took my time and used a variety of improvised bending forms. I also used the Jeff Kleiner recommended bent knee at times, too!

My initial choice is to fasten to the dash panel extension panel(s). When I put the body back on and it doesn't clear the dash corners, then I'll know I chose wrongly but I believe it will be better for me to try it this way first.

Here's the pictures dashpanel bent corners1.jpg dashpanel bent corners2.jpg dashpanel bent corners3.jpg

Until next post, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks like the dash is too high. And if you fasten the driver's side it's going to be even more difficult to access the windshield bolts.

Jeff

[Grubester]

Problem with rendering these pics. Might be just me, but I don't have problem with other pics.
They are difficult to open and at best I get a small thumbnail. Not sure if you have other feedback.
Using a Windows 10 PC. -sg

[cc2Arider]

Hi Grubester,

Thanks for following my thread There is a setting that I haven't applied yet, which "embeds" the pictures in large format size into each post. I might change that...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Looks like the dash is too high. And if you fasten the driver's side it's going to be even more difficult to access the windshield bolts.

Jeff

Thanks for the observation, Jeff! I'll check the height again

[danmas]

Hi Grubester,

Thanks for following my thread There is a setting that I haven't applied yet, which "embeds" the pictures in large format size into each post. I might change that...

Craig C

Craig,

I figured this out and it is really helpful. If you need a hand I am happy to jump on a zoom and walk you through it. The software works fine but there are a few buttons you need to click that if you don’t know about … well let’s just say it can be frustrating. PM me if you want to chat…

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan!

[Nigel Allen]

Craig,

I figured this out and it is really helpful. If you need a hand I am happy to jump on a zoom and walk you through it. The software works fine but there are a few buttons you need to click that if you don’t know about … well let’s just say it can be frustrating. PM me if you want to chat…

Hey Dan,

Great idea. Could you make a you tube, or similar clip. I would like to understand how to embed pics as well.

Cheers,

Nige

[danmas]

Hey Dan,

Great idea. Could you make a you tube, or similar clip. I would like to understand how to embed pics as well.

Cheers,

Nige

I started a new thread on the roadster forum. It’s rough but it shows the steps. I don’t want to hijack a build thread. Cheers…Dan

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I scheduled a visit from the local law enforcement to check my chassis and powertrain numbers for my titling process this weekend. I was prepared, but was still unsure how the meeting would go. The Deputies were nice and professional, and it looked like one was being trained by the other.

I pointed out the chassis number and showed where the engine block number was and the transmission number. At this point, I should have paid more attention to what they were focusing on. They didn't seem too interested in the engine number nor the transmission number. Initially, I thought it was that they trusted my pre-filled-out form. The one Deputy wrote down my chassis number at which point both went back to their cruiser for a few minutes...

They returned and showed me that the number didn't conform to their queries. It was at this point the more senior Deputy and me both said, that the number that the Deputy trainee had written down and checked was not a VIN. I actually marked a check-box which said "select if no identification number found". They were both nice about the mistake and filled out and signed a blank for for me

Anyway, I wanted to get that done so that I could install my powertrain without making it awkward to look for the engine and transmission numbers...

So, here's the worst-case angle-of-attack installing the powertrain1.jpg Here's another viewpoint installing the powertrain2.jpg

Here's a viewpoint of the underside where I used a floorjack to lift up the transmission tailshaft housing up into position installing the powertrain3.jpg

For those builders who have not done this before, you really have to slow down when you get close to the final position. For example, try to install the driveshaft while the tailshaft housing is still a few inches forward of its final location. Otherwise it is difficult to get it installed...

Next post...installation details
Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I document a few things particular to my build, although not unique at all. Others have chosen the same parts to get their powertrain to fit. Big credit goes out to FMan!! I should mention that I've got a 427W with a Pro-flo4 induction system (which is a little taller than most others), and to compensate for that height, I've got a 7.0" deep oil pan. Shifting the height downward is the result of using solid engine mounts instead of the urethane ones provided in the kit...

Here's some details powertrain mounting detail3.jpgpowertrain mounting detail2.jpgpowertrain mounting detail1.jpg

Then the result as viewed from low in front of the vehicle powertrain mounting detail4(corrected).jpg

New post: final pictures and comments about the powertrain installation ...
Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this (hopefully) last post about my powertrain installation, I've got some comments and pictures...

First up, the overall presentation installed powertrain.jpg This is VERY motivating!!

Then some comments/encouragement to the other Builders: pre-fitment and pre-measurements go a long ways towards success. I was worried about banging into my fuel pressure regulator assembly on the lower part of the firewall, but the lifting straps didn't touch it and I didn't remove it while installing the powertrain. Here's a perspective installed powertrain2.jpg

Although not shown clearly, my throttle linkages and planned fuel line routings look like they fit just as I envisioned, as does my battery "power bus" bracket along the main frame rail -- good times!

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[danmas]

Looks sweet!

[cc2Arider]

Looks sweet!

Thanks Dan!

I also took your advice and created a Gallery "Album" and uploaded from my phone to the Album, then to the individual posts...although I missed the part about making the images more-to-scale. Was that in your training video?

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Ooops! Nevermind...

I see that NWTim added a post about double-clicking the image to select the size....I'll try that next time

Craig C

[F500guy]

Nice, great motivator to get to that point!

[danmas]

Thanks Dan!

I also took your advice and created a Gallery "Album" and uploaded from my phone to the Album, then to the individual posts...although I missed the part about making the images more-to-scale. Was that in your training video?

Craig C

In the training video I don’t modify the scale. To make them full size in your post you need to copy and paste the BB code at the bottom of one of your photos. Open your gallery, click on the picture you want to post, scroll to the bottom and copy all the code from the BB box. Then create a new post (or use an existing one) and just paste it in your post. If you select “go advanced” while you are creating your post you will see it as it is displayed to everyone when you click save. Hope that helps.

Dan

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I finish up the mechanical details of my Powertrain installation. First up: installing my "Craig Brake" handbrake bracket plate. Here's some pictures final install of handbrake bracket plate2.jpg final install of handbrake bracket plate1.jpg

I have to admit that embedding larger-size images is kinda fun

So with my handbrake installed and adjusted, I could then torque my driveshaft bolts in a staged, criss-cross pattern to the Manual-recommended settings (70lb-ft). I added blue Loctite, too.

Feeling pretty chuffed about that, I torqued the IRS half-shaft nuts to 175lb-ft by applying the handbrake, putting the transmission into 1st gear, and wedging some rubber wheel chocks up to the rear tires. The socket fit easily into the wheel hub opening and it was done before I knew it -- super easy! I did not see any thread deformation with my kit-supplied mechanical lock nuts -- seemed to thread on well...

Next up, torqueing the transmission urethane mount bolts and solid-mount engine block bolts...done!

Next up, measuring, cutting, and threading the Forte' mechanical throttle linkage adjustment rods. I used a simple set of twist bits in a hand-held drill and stepped up the size one-at-a-time until I got to the recommended size for the UNF 1/4 fasteners on the rod-ends. Go slow and try to aim straight and the hole should be pretty concentric. What DID surprise me though, was how slow and tedious it was to cut the threads Using cutting fluid and a 1/2 turn forward, followed by a 1/4 turn backwards got me through it. Surprising how much friction and heat was generated by that... Here's a view of the finished geometry. final cut and threading of throttle linkage adjustment rods.jpg

I still might change it up a little. It's surprising how many "variables" there are to the rods and arms: pedal height, leverage ratio, pedal height, etc...

Lastly for this post: making my last set of fuel flex lines. A refresher from a previous post: I chose to design a recirculating system with the Edelbrock Pro-flo4 electronic sensor located at the "head" of the rails and the pressure regulator located at the "tail". Here's a picture cut and fitted the last fuel flex lines.jpg

Next post: installing my battery powerline "bus"...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this posting, I add my bracket for locating and separating (as much as possible) the battery's positive and negative primary cables. Here's a set of pictures going from the battery, to the starter motor, and finally up to my circuit breakers. Hmmm....for some reason I can't select the image size again
Attachment 218865 Attachment 218866
Attachment 218867 Attachment 218868 Attachment 218869

This last picture shows the details under the alternatorAttachment 218870

Then with that all installed, I hooked up my battery and checked some circuits -- success! The biggest surprise was how loud the horns are

I suppose they have to fight for attention when that engine is rumbling

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Jeff Kleiner]

No pictures; attachments are invalid.

Jeff

[cc2Arider]

Let's try this again

battery power bus1.jpg battery power bus2.jpg battery power bus3.jpg battery power bus4.jpg battery power bus5.jpg

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Trying to attach a photo of the alternator cable detail ...

detail view of alternator cables.jpg

I think I have to log-off and log back in if I want to add more than 5 photos to my Album...I'll get it eventually

Craig C

[danmas]

The larger pictures look great! Also your work is so clean. Really well done!

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Dan!