Chris' Coupe Build #566 - Rear Camera. EPBs. Hatch floor.

[edwardb]

I've been using a CTEK 7002 for some years with the Odyssey PC925 batteries/ Was recommended to me and has a lot of positive reviews. Happy with how it works. Rated at 7 amps BTW. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y..._title_12&th=1

[F500guy]

I believe that in order to maintain, it needs to cycle a high charge rate occasionally to ensure they don't sulfate up the electrodes. That is what the maintaining is supposed to do verses a simple trickle charger. I have never been a fan of always connected chargers for months, so I usually unplug it once in a while so it will cycle a good charge and make sure that the "Charge complete" finishes, as batteries degrade they may never hit the completed threshold.

[460.465USMC]

I've been using a CTEK 7002 for some years with the Odyssey PC925 batteries/ Was recommended to me and has a lot of positive reviews. Happy with how it works. Rated at 7 amps BTW. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y..._title_12&th=1

A recommend based upon your real-world experience is helpful. Thanks, Paul!

I believe that in order to maintain, it needs to cycle a high charge rate occasionally to ensure they don't sulfate up the electrodes. That is what the maintaining is supposed to do verses a simple trickle charger. I have never been a fan of always connected chargers for months, so I usually unplug it once in a while so it will cycle a good charge and make sure that the "Charge complete" finishes, as batteries degrade they may never hit the completed threshold.

Hi Lance. This is just the type of insight I was hoping to get. What you wrote makes sense, and a good reason indeed to follow Odyssey's recommend on the 2.7A minimum. Here I go back down the money hole!

[460.465USMC]

The first rivets have been pulled. Feels good to get to the point where I can permanently install some panels. The powder coat matches the chassis pretty well.

I think I mentioned it before, but I’m leaving the rivets natural color: I like the contrast. I showed my wife, and pointed out how I like the shiny rivets against the black panels. She said it looks like the Batmobile. Should I take that as a compliment? Batman is cool and all, but not really the vision I have in mind for the Coupe. Although, it will be painted black. Hmmmmm….

First panels to go in were the radiator surrounds and the hold-down bracket. With the black panels, I switched to black silicone, GE Supreme ($12+ per tube). Ouch! The aluminum rivets that came with my kit were pretty unsightly, donut shaped instead of dome shaped–see earlier post. So, I’m going with SS rivets wherever they will be visible.




The footbox panels were up next. I spend quite a bit of prep time here making templates for the Thermo Tec. So many angles to deal with, plus avoiding overlap where the panel comes in contact with chassis tubes. The blue tape pieces are reminders of gaps to close. I’ve closed quite a few so far with silicone. The passenger side has just as many, if not more. Still noodling on a good way to close the larger gaps.




I had a big Whoops! moment on the passenger side outboard panel (not shown). The tip of the gray Sharpie I was using to trace the chassis tubes went dry. I shook it in a downward motion to force fluid down into the tip. And wouldn't you know it, fluid came down all right. A bunch of it landed on that panel, outboard side. Long story short, I bought some matching paint from my powder coater. It's close enough that my wife couldn't easily pick out the difference. It jumps out at me, of course. But it's installed now. Moving on.




Batmobile? Seriously?




As I mentioned, I'm using Thermo-Tec again. I found a much better three piece roller set. Heavier duty and better bearings for smoother rolling ($16): LUMITECO roller kit.

I'm making good progress on the cockpit panels, and hope to wrap those up in the near future. Friendly reminder: Where rivets are exposed on the bottom (e.g. under the seat pan), consider pulling the rivet from underneath. This leaves the prettier side facing the road. The crumpled end will be covered with heat/sound mat/carpet on the inside of the cockpit. It's not like a lot of people will be crawling underneath to examine those rivets, but why not. I didn't think of this until it was too late on my MK4 build.

Lastly, I finally placed the order for my transmission: T-56, Quicktime bell housing, reverse lockout, backup light wiring, and McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing. Should be here in a week or two.

[8secDuster]

Looks good Chris!
I like the contrast as well.
Which Rivet Gun do you have? Does it pull the SS ok?

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Mike. Funny you should ask. I had been priding myself in hand-pulling all the rivets on my last build. But the new tool bug bit me. I picked up the Milwaukee M12 rivet gun. It's fantastic. Breezes through the stainless, including 3/16" rivets as well. Now I know what I was missing.

[Papa]

Batmobile ... think sinister! On the Thermotech, I realized that the effort needed to try to cut the material to exactly fit the panels was not necessary. Just cover the panels with pieces that butt up and tape the seams with aluminum tape.

This stuff is about as perfect a match to the frame PC as you can get in both color and sheen:

https://a.co/d/bmPMd5s

Tim tipped me off to this.

[8secDuster]

Thanks, Mike. Funny you should ask. I had been priding myself in hand-pulling all the rivets on my last build. But the new tool bug bit me. I picked up the Milwaukee M12 rivet gun. It's fantastic. Breezes through the stainless, including 3/16" rivets as well. Now I know what I was missing.

Hand pulling all those in Stainless... you'd have Popeye arms!

[460.465USMC]

Question: are the under door panels supposed to be drilled and riveted along the top 1.5" chassis tube? Mine came with a couple screws when shipped from F5. The manual is unclear whether the top rail should get the normal rivet treatment. I don't know of any reason not to, but their picture doesn't show any. Anyone guidance would be appreciated.

[8secDuster]

I did mine on the inside of the rail.
Wasn't sure either, but figured it would keep the panel tight against the frame to eliminate a potential vibration there, and it would be another sealant point to keep the possibility of water entering.

Pass Panel.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Mike. Did you put any across the top, or just along the inside edge of the top rail?

[8secDuster]

Just across the inside of the rails Chris.
I was afraid I may hit a rivet while drilling holes in the top of that rail to secure the body.

Revised my original answer. It was confusing, sorry.

[Kbl7td]

Just throw 3 in the top, makes no difference either way but at least it won’t rattle then.

[edwardb]

I went back and looked at pictures from during my build. I had a full compliment of rivets on the inside cockpit side of the panels. But no rivets on the top. I put three large rivnuts (I recall 1/4-20) across the top which secured the aluminum and then bolts through holding the body sill. It all sits flat and tight. Not going anywhere and not going to rattle.

[460.465USMC]

Just across the inside of the rails Chris.
I was afraid I may hit a rivet while drilling holes in the top of that rail to secure the body.

Just throw 3 in the top, makes no difference either way but at least it won’t rattle then.

I went back and looked at pictures from during my build. I had a full compliment of rivets on the inside cockpit side of the panels. But no rivets on the top. I put three large rivnuts (I recall 1/4-20) across the top which secured the aluminum and then bolts through holding the body sill. It all sits flat and tight. Not going anywhere and not going to rattle.

Thanks for the input, Gents! Really appreciate it. For grins I emailed F5 as well. Dan's response was pretty much in line with what you recommended, except for the rivnuts, of course. I've grown to find those really functional, and will likely use 2-3 along the top when the time comes. For now, I'm going to rivet along the inside rail, and silicone along the top. And temporarily clamp the top until it cures.

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, your engine panels look fantastic. Really clean. Looking forward to you stuffing that Coyote in there.

[flight_83]

Just curious why you installed the radiator and surrounds already? I just found it beneficial to have as much access to that area as possible until the engine was installed and lines were ran.

[460.465USMC]

Hello. Thanks for the question. I can see why you waited. The more room the better. I very well may pull the radiator (two bolts) when the time comes. I'm not concerned about the sides, but who knows. Maybe I'll be kicking myself trying to work around them...it seems I learn most things the hard way.

What are the lines you're referring to that require access in that area? Is it the hoses to the condenser that run along the right side?

[460.465USMC]

Chris, your engine panels look fantastic. Really clean. Looking forward to you stuffing that Coyote in there.

Thanks, Jesse. I'm sure the rivet contrast is not for everyone, but I sure like it. Speaking of Coyote, I picked up the T-56 with all the goodies yesterday. Between the motor and trans they're taking up a lot of valuable floor space in my garage. I'll have to take a look at what all I want to run in terms of electrical, but it would make good sense from a garage space standpoint to drop in the drivetrain sooner rather than later.

[460.465USMC]

Friday, I picked up my T-56 Magnum transmission and associated goodies from the freight dock. Thankfully, the shipment arrived intact. No visible damage. Phew! That’s not a given nowadays.




Today, I inventoried all the boxes and looked over the parts/pieces. Here’s what I ordered:

• Tremec Magnum 6-Speed (TUET11010): 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .80, .63
• Quicktime bellhousing RM8080 ($$$$)
• T-56 Magnum Reverse Lockout Control Module
• Gauge plate: provides concentric hole required to perform bellhousing runout check
• McLeod Super Street Pro Clutch Kit
• McLeod flywheel
• McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing kit.
• Wiring for reverse light and speed sensor connections
• Break in Transmission oil (Dexron III), 4 quart pack

This T-56 may look a lot like the other Magnums in the transmission nursery, but this one's mine. I owned a 6th Gen Camaro that had the OEM version (TR6060), so I'm excited to experience the aftermarket version in the Coupe. I've heard it's quite the improvement over the TKO600 I had in my MK4. Looking forward to rowing through the gears, and a more natural step down from 4th into the overdrive gears.




The Quicktime bell housing: I don’t understand why these are so pricey. It would be interesting to know the drivers behind the price point. The Ford aluminum bell housing is <50% the cost. But I jumped down the money hole because I appreciate the extra layer of safety the steel housing will provide. Just in case.

I'm looking forward to learning how to put this all together. Will need to pick up a dial gauge for the runout calibration step. But otherwise, I think I have most of the tools I'll need.

Happy building!

[PNWTim]

Fun! You've got all you need. Now please install by Monday, 5:00 PM latest and report back.

[JimStone]

I have essentially the same parts as you, and just did this over the weekend. What I don't see in your picture, and I thought came with the Mccleod kit but didn't, was the pilot bearing.



------------

Edit: I looked again and now I see your bearing. Carry on!!

[460.465USMC]

Fun! You've got all you need. Now please install by Monday, 5:00 PM latest and report back.

The only thing I can do that fast is mess it up! It will be a learning experience, and I'm excited to take it on.

I have essentially the same parts as you, and just did this over the weekend. What I don't see in your picture, and I thought came with the Mccleod kit but didn't, was the pilot bearing.

There was confusion as to the part number. Found out GM has a different part number for the replacement bearing than it does for the original from the factory bearing. Same item, however

Amazon to the rescue again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...b_b_asin_title

Perfect fit


------------

Edit: I looked again and now I see your bearing. Carry on!!

That's good news. Now I know who to call if I get stuck. Any advice for me?

Yep, the pilot bearing is in that small, red box in the lower left of the picture.

[JimStone]

The only thing I can do that fast is mess it up! It will be a learning experience, and I'm excited to take it on.



That's good news. Now I know who to call if I get stuck. Any advice for me?

Yep, the pilot bearing is in that small, red box in the lower left of the picture.

So far it's all gone together super easy.

The bellhousing run out was perfect. 0.0035in for me, so no adjustment dowels needed.

I've done everything but mate the trans, but the alignment tool sticks in there real nice so it should slide right in

I've found ChatGPT to be really good at putting together step by step instructions for things like this. Its my first time doing this, so just the general basics and order of assembly are new. ChatGPT lays it neatly. Then I verify, because AI sometimes lies

[Blitzboy54]

Chris, I have no idea why the steel bell housing is as expensive as it is. I went with the aluminum for that reason. I did have to burr out some clearance for the fly wheel though. When you mate everything together don’t forget about the crankshaft pulse ring. If you don’t install it your engine won’t start and you have to pull it all back apart. Ask me how I know.

You got this!

[Skuzzy]

The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

[flight_83]

What are the lines you're referring to that require access in that area? Is it the hoses to the condenser that run along the right side?

Mostly just routing and connecting the power steering lines. At least for me it was a bit of a pain in the *** getting to the fittings and lining them up the way I wanted.

[flight_83]

The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

Yeah but there are millions of cars and trucks out there with aluminum bellhousings and how many of them do you hear about blowing up? Of course if you’ve got some crazy build with a ton of power I’d go that route. You can also rivet in some steel plate on the inside of the trans tunnel the would essentially do the same thing. Driveshaft safety loop was what I was more concerned with, I’ve seen a few of those go over the years.

[Lugnut Mark]

Does anyone know the part # for the aluminum bellhousing … I’m getting ready to order my t-56 and thought the aluminum bellhousing was no longer available… I too would like to mitigate some of the cost with building my coupe!

Nevermind I found it lethal performance offers them for $295 part # 8580

[Skuzzy]

Yeah but there are millions of cars and trucks out there with aluminum bellhousings and how many of them do you hear about blowing up? Of course if you’ve got some crazy build with a ton of power I’d go that route. You can also rivet in some steel plate on the inside of the trans tunnel the would essentially do the same thing. Driveshaft safety loop was what I was more concerned with, I’ve seen a few of those go over the years.

A small percentage of cars/trucks come with a standard transmission. Even fewer are used for racing in stock trim. Look at the relative position of the flywheel to your limbs in most vehicles. Also note manufactured cars come with a heavy steel floor.

Yes, you can weld in a steel plate to protect yourself. I am not saying this is a rampant problem. It is just one of those things which can happen and if it does, I prefer having that extra protection. I also agree about the driveshaft safety hoop.

Just my two pennies worth.

[460.465USMC]

Chris, I have no idea why the steel bell housing is as expensive as it is. I went with the aluminum for that reason. I did have to burr out some clearance for the fly wheel though. When you mate everything together don’t forget about the crankshaft pulse ring. If you don’t install it your engine won’t start and you have to pull it all back apart. Ask me how I know.

You got this!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Jesse! I'll be reading, re-reading, and re-reading again all the instructions. Taking my time--I'm really good at that.

The crankshaft pulse ring: I don't remember dealing with this on my Gen 3 Coyote, and for whatever reason it hasn't hit my radar yet for the Gen 4. However, Forte put together my Gen 3 setup, so no doubt it was handled during assembly. I had to Google it, and found a helpful video from LMR: 2011-2023 Mustang 5.0L Coyote Crankshaft Sensor Ring | What Is It & How To Install Thanks for the helpful tip!

The price of the Quicktime bellhousing is a small price to pay for the security of knowing if something comes apart in the bellhousing, it will stay in the bellhousing.

They are expensive as they are low volume and the process of making them is expensive. It is a patented process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36Z2K8zj9Vk

Thanks for the info, Skuzzy. All logical and makes sense. Low volume, high specialty, high quality product are the reasons I suppose. I went with the Ford aluminum version on my last build, but decided to go this route second time around. I will also be installing a driveshaft safety loop, as I did in my last build. Price point on those is much more digestible.

[460.465USMC]

Guess it was time for another Whoops! That seems to be my trend lately.

I overlooked the short panel that extends the radiator back duct panel at the top by about four inches, and connects to the side panels. I should have caught it. But I will say there’s no mention of it in the F5 instructions. It’s not obvious. I literally found it by accident the other day when I was researching which panels get the push-on bulb seal. I’ll have to drill out the SS rivets along the top. Hopefully, I can drill it without damaging the powder coat on the duct panel. Bummer. One down side of using SS rivets is sometimes I've had them spin when drilling out (for removal). Anyway, I’ll get it mocked up, then set it aside until after the drivetrain is installed.




After the footbox panels, I moved on to the cockpit panels. I ran into a couple issues with the under door aluminum panels: two gaps I wasn’t expecting.

• Gap #1 - along the top rail: the upright part of the panel sits flush against the top rail in the rear, but gradually opens up to ⅜”+ at the front. I was planning to rivet along the entirety of the inside of the top rail, but ended up with just three at the rear where the panel is close to the rail. Both sides are the same. I wish the pictures in the manual were a bit more clear. I guess the silver lining is I won’t have to wrap the carpet around the 1.5” post corner at the front. The panel sits flush with that post.
• Gap #2 - the bottom flange of the panel sits about ¼” above the floor. Best I can figure is this is due to where F5 bent the top of the panel. Instead of trying to force the bottom flange and the floor together, I siliconed 0.2” spacers (¼”-20 nuts) centered around the rivet holes, and then laid a bead of silicone along the edge. I highly doubt it's designed to have this gap, but it's the best I could do with how they bent these panels.

A number of builders have called out a heat concern in the cockpit from the side exhaust. So, I added another layer of Thermo Tec to the outside of the under door panels. Then painted it black so there’s no flash from the foil. I don’t think this area is visible once the body is on, but I didn’t want to chance it. Blends in pretty good.




Trans tunnel front panels: the bend angles didn't align, resulting in a gap where they rivet together–see picture below. The gap is only visible when looking from below, so that’s probably why I didn’t notice initially. Otherwise, I would have adjusted the bends to close the gap. Anyway, I broke out the big guns, using 3/16” SS rivets to pull the panels together. The Milwaukie pulls those guys no problem. Nice!




It's a shame to cover over all the pretty powder coating.







I don't know think the uppermost portions of the footboxes get carpet, so covering up the foil so it blends in (black Gorilla tape in the picture below where the heater and AC hoses will route). For others like the transmission tunnel top covers, I'll probably paint over the Thermo Tec on the bottom side (black).

[burchfieldb]

It is looking good and it is a shame to have to cover that nice powdercoat job.

[8secDuster]

I had to trim both of the under door panels (forward / top) a smidge to get them to sit flush with that top rail.
Apologies, I forgot about that until you mentioned it.

[flight_83]

A number of builders have called out a heat concern in the cockpit from the side exhaust. So, I added another layer of Thermo Tec to the outside of the under door panels. Then painted it black so there’s no flash from the foil. I don’t think this area is visible once the body is on, but I didn’t want to chance it. Blends in pretty good.

I found these foam insulation boards from Home Depot that worked great for filing the voids. I’m going to put another sheet of Aluminum to cover that area as well. IMG_4708.pngIMG_3732.jpg

[460.465USMC]

I had to trim both of the under door panels (forward / top) a smidge to get them to sit flush with that top rail.
Apologies, I forgot about that until you mentioned it.

No worries. Good to know. The under door panels looked innocent enough. Caught me off guard. It makes sense they should be flush along the entirety of the top rail. I will run a bead of silicone to ensure they are completely sealed. Hopefully, my placement won't cause any issues.

I found these foam insulation boards from Home Depot that worked great for filing the voids. I’m going to put another sheet of Aluminum to cover that area as well.

Thanks for the tip. I think Namrups did something similar and liked it as well. What insulation on you using on your panels? I found the Thermo Tec to be very effective at mitigating engine bay heat in my MK4.

[460.465USMC]

I'm looking for a recommendation for a plunge type dial indicator with magnetic base for the Quicktime bellhousing to crankshaft alignment on my T-56. I expect this will be a very low use tool for me, so I'd like to keep the cost down. Here's one from Summit Racing for $39. Any concerns with something like this? Measurement range is 0-1.0 inches in .001 increments.

[bishes]

That's the exact dial indicator that I have. I haven't installed my engine or started it yet so I'm limited in what I can confidently say, but I'm happy with it and it seems to have worked very well.

[flight_83]

I picked one up from HF that worked just fine. Bit of a pain in the *** getting it positioned just right but did the trick.

[JohnK]

I initially picked up this one to dial in my bell housing. It was a POS and caused me immense frustration.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPHT76...d_asin_title_6

I then tossed that one in the garbage where it belonged, and picked up this one which, while still not an "expensive" instrument, was massively better than the previous one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C0ZOPS...n_title_5&th=1