So if I'm tracking right from the previous responses. Install with no studs, stop the engine an inch or two before touchdown, support the trans, install studs (both sides?) and the DS header, full send to the motor mounts?
Sounds about right. You’ll need to use header bolts instead of studs as the studs won’t fit in all locations. I didn’t want to get under the hanging engine so I installed everything once it was seated on the mounts, but it can be done either way. And I would add some RTV to the bolts as well.
Sounds about right. You’ll need to use header bolts instead of studs as the studs won’t fit in all locations.... And I would add some RTV to the bolts as well.
You got this! It’s easier than it seems.
Thanks for the reminder on rtv. Bolts just forgot to write but yes space is premo. Lots of steps between them and now, just preparing.
Success is when preparation meets opportunity.
Side note, All I have left behind the dash is wiring the high beam button, leds' in the foot box button, and Start button. I did put power to the gauges last night and they all came on EVEN THE CLOCK!?! Looks like SpeedHut sends those with illumination capability!
A lot of work for not a lot of finish end product to show for it. But the switches are wired up. All that's left is hooking them up to the relays then organizing the gang fight of wires behind that panel. PXL_20250727_222607554.PORTRAIT.jpg
Real busy building, not so much on the posting... What can I say Im enjoying the build again.
I'm almost thru the electrical under dash. I got the High beams wired and integrated to the turn signal per the IE 427 directions. Last steps under dash for me will be integrating LEDS for the courtesy light, and mounting the relays. I choose to make a bracket that suspends them over top the loom on the bottom shelf. I'll still need to do plenty of organizing once its powered up and confirmed working.
My rear bar LED's that were on back order finally came in so now I can do the DS (next item up). I originally wanted to do 5 on each bar, facepalm I did 6 and shorted myself for the other side. The alternative option was go with the 5 and make the bottom 6th hole white for reverse but it would tear up a lot and possibly scrap the led's I had finished. -$$ .... I decided to order 2 more and make all 6 red. I'll likely put 2 white somewhere else for back up lights. These things are so small they may sit next to or just below the license plate in the body. PXL_20250629_230743838.jpg
This weekend Dad came up and we swapped the Coyote MOROSO oil pan. Pretty simple task. Only trouble was the tab on the pickup was a bit off on angle. It was hitting the scavenge tray / gasket that comes in the Forte kit. A small trip to the vice had it marginally adjusted on angle and it fit great.
NOTE: One piece of advice on install is to swing the tube away from the engine (toward the PS) and push it on in the receiver, then swing it back into place (towards the DS). Trying to push it on or per the instructions by using a dead blow and a punch to get it on is not as effective or easy.
Next was to install the STS / STX mid (front) shifter. I have a special shifter I'll show later that will make it all make sense. Needed a clean up on the TKX as the box dust and the factory oil made a crappy paste. A blast of air and a wipe down and we were ready to go. I trimmed the neutral safety as its inoperable with the STX, drained any remaining fluid, and popped the covers off. The instructions were very simple to follow. Remove the rear center rod, the rear selector and mostly just remove the roll pins to get the upper selectors out.
The most nerve racking part was you need to cut the side rails. But the shifter gives you a ring that aligns with the roll pin hole and you just death wheel off the excess and remove the burrs. Actually it was a pretty simple job.
Buttoned up the case, installed the new STX selectors, and installed the STS. Checking the function it seems pretty good, that throw from neutral to 3rd is damn short! Overall really nice piece even if it is $$ I think it is worth it for my end product.
Now I m looking at tires to hit the ground and start prepping for engine install. Considering the Nitto NT-05's 255 & 315 as the leading candidate.
With a clutch safety you don't really need a neutral safety anyway. I didn't do a neutral or brake safety switch, just the clutch and it's safe without being cumbersome. I know some people don't even use the clutch safety (*cough* Greg *cough*), but I think it's nice to have...just in case.
I'm glad you're enjoying the build again. I'm digging the Moroso pan.
Short update. The STX short throw front "mid position" had an issue with the reverse lockout not working. I could go straight from 5th to reverse no issue.
Keep in mind I got this part from Summit and was dreading the swap process. I said WTH and I called STS direct. They were very helpful and I sent them some photos and a video of the issue. They diagnosed it was installed properly and likely had an issue inside the mechanism.
They promptly got me a shipping label and as soon as the label posted sent & that it was on the way they got me a new STS in the mail. I had it in hand 3 days later, bolted it up, and it functioned as intended. Great customer service from STS Transmissions.
Got my new DPDT switch in. Amazon did in fact send me the wrong 28V one. 12V DPDT switch has all the lights and directionals 100%. PXL_20250811_231240407.jpg
I'm finishing up the DS LED's on the rear roll bar now that OZNIUM sent the two that were on backorder.
Next up... engine install! You may have seen the other post I had yesterday about not being able to check the SMR signal ( because the engine isn't in). Note to future coyote havin' builders and confirmed by FORD, if the engine isn't plugged into the PCM/ECU you cant complete the circuit and you wont get a signal when you turn the key. Suspicion confirmed. PXL_20250821_213536662.jpg
I'm getting my roof redone and there is a nice pallet the shingles are sitting on. Think I'll cut that bad boy up so I can take the engine off the stand and install the rest of the drivetrain. If I need to move it again it has the FFR engine mounts on it and Ill just use the hoist. YEAH BABY! PXL_20250822_173027681.jpg
I'll also be test fitting the FFR headers that arrived within a few days of placing the order. No thanks to the UPS guy (side eye / see previous post). I also got my order for tyres placed, should be here Saturday. Selected the Nitto NT-05 255/40/17 and 315/35/17's Screenshot_20250822-132931.png
Lots of cool stuff happening and Im on schedule with trying t get the engine in by end of summer while working 2 jobs... Ha!
Super limited time this weekend but I got the prelim electrical done and working. So all my lights switches and indicators are working ( in the rear). I'll do the front later.
It was super late when I finished so I'll post up the end result on the leds and turn signal later today.
I need to figure out a strategy with the engine mount as I put it on the pallet. The Moroso pan is not all flat so it will need a 2" step I'll have to configure. But that's next.
Spent the weekend on getting the engine ready. I deleted the IMRC on the GT350 manifold and held the valves open with a couple quality zip ties. Made sure I ran the bolts back in to create a lip should they shift once they get hot. Doubt it, but cheap insurance. I saw that some companies are selling 3D printed parts to hold these in place. Blew my mind that some were going for $45. I know I have CAD capability and a printer, and its a bigger deal for others but man it cost $1.50 in Nylon material and maybe 10 mins CAD time. Screenshot_20250902-082048.pngScreenshot_20250902-082132.png
Got the Motor mounts installed. The welds on the mounts were a bit large and interfered with the spacer so that needed a bit of clearance on the edge of the spacer so the spacer and mount stack would lay flat. DONE
Also started the sending unit asm. I'm gonna need some copper crush / backing washers to get the thread timing correct. Ugh PXL_20250831_211939676.jpgPXL_20250831_212312384.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20250831_212041309.jpg PXL_20250831_215112240.jpg
Lastly I did as many of the coolant hoses bypassing and capping as I could. Figured it would be easier on the stand vs in the chassis.
Plan is to go to ground with a chopped up pallet section to support the Moroso pan and leave it hooked up to the engine hoist for stability. Any concerns from the community there? Its how they show it in the manual but I know others have spent time making their own stand. I just cant justify the $ for something that wont be on the ground that long. PXL_20250901_185715395.ACTION_PAN.jpg
I may have been bit by the FFR instructions again. I torqued the flywheel bolts to 80ft with Loctite
This will be the last time I trust this manual for a torque spec and unplug my brain. I should know better. Let this be a lesson to the other builders out there to research the specs what it comes to torque values, learn from my mistake.
All the bolts clicked except one it got to 78 and just kept creeping on the next pump so I just stopped I know its there. Question is I think the bolts are torqued way out of spec. A standard M10x1.0 should be 48ft# (slap head)
I think the safe play here is get a new set and install to the proper torque. Better safe than sorry.
Anyone want to talk me out of it?
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
As I said in the link Greg posted...Ford bolts, Ford specs. It bit my friend and he pulled the threads out of his flywheel.
Going from memory here so check me with the Ford manual (there may be some variation by model year) but I think the flywheel goes in two stages up to 170ish lb/in (inches, not feet!) plus 60 degrees. I think the pressure plate is something like 45 lb/ft plus 60 degrees.
Bummer M22; sure hope you didn't pull the threads out of the crank
Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.
Just talking thru all options before taking action.
It really depends on how you feel about it. If its going to bother you every time you drive, then I'd fix it. There's a massive difference between 177in-lbs and the 960 in-lbs (80ft-lbs) you applied. If it was mine, I'd tear it apart, inspect and replace as needed. I'd worry the flywheel would separate from the crankshaft every time I revved it up.
Greg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.
Just talking thru all options before taking action.
Well...it'll "probably" be OK but if you're like my wife when it comes to her questions about her horse trailer and truck "Probably isn't good enough." Thing is that if you reached a point where the bolt was turning but the torque wasn't increasing it was either tearing the threads off of the bolt or crankshaft. If you're lucky it was only the bolt. Only way to know is to remove it---do you feel lucky?
I'm on the phone with Mike now to get new. I'll see what I got right now when I back them out. Hope and pray in any situation is a terrible strategy. Thanks guys
Yep, that was the exact post I was looking at when my heart sank. Any thoughts on leaving it? There was that other guy in the chat that did the same and car was complete.
My fear is when I back the bolts out it snaps or kills the thread. Right now they are in and tight. But safety first.
Just talking thru all options before taking action.
I think I'm the other guy... I read your thread and the linked thread thinking man this sounds familiar, I really hope I didn't mess that up.. Then saw my own post.
I can say I've got 5000mi on it with no issues, so I'll consider myself lucky. My entire package was also from Forte.
I think I may have gotten away with one Y'all. The horsepower gods must have gave me a pass because the threads are 100% fine. I slowly backed out the bolts / after a smack with the ball peen hammer to break any Loctite that hardened.
The thread locker had not even set up yet. You can see in the bolt photo that the stretch was for real, especially the third one from the right. It had the start of that hour glass shape.
Got a new set of bolts on the way and I'm a bit wiser moving forward. PXL_20250908_165034976.jpgPXL_20250908_165208950.jpg
That's excellent news. I know the feeling of dodging a huge bullet when I used the wrong cylinder head bolts. Developed a coolant leak, and torqued the offending head bolt until it snapped. Terrible feeling. I thought I was facing a complete engine removal and teardown, but I got lucky. I'm happy for you!
Greg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
I went to put in the trans Friday night everything torqued setup proper. Picked up the trans and went to install...CLUNK. Don't fit, sitting back 3". I thought maybe the crap plastic alignment tool did me dirty. Nope. Maybe its just a smidge off so I got it as close I actuated the clutch fork with a pair ratcheting clamps...nope. I got down looked in the bore and that's when I saw it. Got my full trans package from Forte - Trans is a 26 spline, Ram clutch says 11x26 on the box, but the clutch plate itself and the aliment tool in the box is a 10 spline. Looks like I'll be calling Mike. I should have caught it earlier but damn the luck.
***UPDATE*** Mike had a replacement plate and alignment tool sent out as of 11am this morning, it will be here Thursday PXL_20250912_230809672.jpg
I spent the rest of the weekend reorganizing the garage and consolidating boxes, making notes what is where, boring stuff.
Last thing I did was I have a 2018 IRS and used the 2018 OEM Mustang rear brake package, with 17" rims. Note to future builders (and it is already on here), you will need to grind the caliper some to get it to fit with the 17" FFR Halibrands. Plan for 18's if this bothers you. I got a 5mm spacer and tried it but there are two issues with it. It been posted before but I'll put my experiences here for others to learn from.
If you go with a spacer
#1 You will need longer studs, didn't feel like redoing this because I have shields on my assembly. Big PITA.
#2 The 5mm spacer is perfect for what you need but you have about half the engagement on the hub center ring. It just didn't look sufficient to me.
#3 the FFR studs are already a bit short IMO, I always like to see min 1 thread sticking out. But by the math as intended there is enough engagement. This pushes it way too far.
If you stay the 17" wheel and 2018+ Mustang OEM brake path and no spacer
A. You will need to work with the people balancing the tires to put your weights in a very specific spot. I told them to stay away from the outer 1.5" edge at the spoke. Everything cleared fine that way but watch it.
B. You will need to grind 1/8" off the corner of the caliper and make the radius flat.
I marked it with painters tape and paint pen, ground it down and have a pretty consistent +1/8" gap at min. Used some diamond bits off Amazon in the air drill and took it slow and snuck up on it. Im good with the final but could go more if I need to.
Clutch assembled, car raked and ready, should be putting on the trans and trans mount tonight. I also swapped plugs from the OG drop out. Probably not necessary but one less thing to troubleshoot at startup.
Plan is to install Saturday once I get my helper. Small odds and ends till then. Do you need to move the reservoirs?
Giggity.... damn thing slid right together. I did take 600 grit to the housing and made a quick pass on the bell housing edges to be sure before hand. PXL_20250922_163621774~2.jpg
Coyote went in really well. Really no drama. Key items I'll repeat here from other posts.
1. Remove all the bungs on the left and right sides from the oil pan. They can get hung up on the chassis mounts.
2. Reservoir out, the coyote lift arms will likely wipe it out.
3. The ratchet strap works!
The strap sure worked great, loop the tail shaft, under the chassis, and over a back bar on the hoist. Tighten it up, drop some, let as some out, drop repeat. After a couple cycles you didn't need to let the strap out. As you drop the engine it lets slack out of the strap and find level. Hardest part was getting the hoist to go straight.
Engines down rear trans brace is in but now I have a new problem. I HAVE THE FFR COYOTE INSTALL PACKAGE WITH THE 1/2" SPACERS INSTALLED BOTH SIDES.
But the engine is still too low. The Tremec bell housing is hanging down 1/4" - 5/16??? I have no spacer at the back of the trans. I know most use 3/4"ish.
The bottom of crank pulley is about 1/4" from the top of the chassis rail. If I add spacer at the tail shaft which should be for driveline angle that will push the crank pulley closer to the frame rail which I don't want.
Per outside discussions it sounds like what I have is normal and I may have to grind the bell housing. That's disappointing. The Tremec housing is a nice piece hate to grind on it (more). Plan is to set pinion angle, determine trans spacer, then re-evaluate.
Had a great weekend and got some stuff done namely the pinion / engine height , and Metco loop.
Engine height and DS angles were not optimum and this was frustrating. After a long think and evaluation here's how I worked around this, hopefully this helps someone else in the future here is what I did.
(1) I realize I can only control what I can control, and the rear gear angle is out of my control as I'm not cutting and rewelding.
(2) I Unbolted the rear DS, confirmed / re clean the mating surfaces ( no pebbles etc. ) / rotate it on it axis 180 degrees from the original position & re-fasten to the gear and torque it. This worked many times at the tracks with high speed vibrations that you couldn't get rid of. Sometimes you just get a DS that isnt happy in the original position. This was the case for me as the numbers improved slightly
(3) Try to raised the engine till it cleared -> yielded a 7.5 deg DS angle.... NOPE! Cant do that, just accept it will hang down and work that problem with a chassis rub strip.
(4) Remeasured with the +3/4 spacer (maybe 7/8 total?) on the tranny and found it was the "best" I could get balancing engine height and respectable angles -> 3 deg up front / 4 deg in rear / 1 deg split
(5) The oil pan hangs the rear weld down 1/16" and the bell housing about 3/8" with this spacer. Cant / wont fix that. I'm going to bolt a strip material to warn me on the underside of the rails to protect for the speed bumps in town like the builder above. I ordered a set of 26" long 5/8" tall steel concrete forming stakes, the more involved version is to order a strip of A36 and machine holes. If something jumps up and hits me, well that can happen if it was above the rails too and without a massive redesign that wont be fixed.
The first photo is no spacer, final product has the weld just peeking out from below the frame rail. The bellhousing is just straight disrespectful and flapping in the breeze.
The Metco loop is a really nice piece but seemed to sit really far back. I trimmed 3/4" off the leading edge of the lower bracket and moved it forward, as my A frame trans mount orientation didn't allow it to move. Its happy now. Be advised that you should get some longer bolts for the bracket to hoop connection ( and it says this in the instructions ). I needed quite a bit of spacer to raise the hoop so the DS did not hit. And shifted it to the DS to avoid hitting the chassis angle 1x1 in the tunnel.
The engine being low I can go two routes. First I ordered a set of 5/8" tall steel pre drilled concrete angle stakes ($30 for the set). I'll see if those fit up underneath neatly as can act as warning rub strips for speed bumps. If that's a no go I'll just order some raw A36 or maybe Docol and machine in holes with countersinks ($$)
Moving slowly but moving. I got the starter installed, Alternator hooked up, and my other header on, copper rtv gasket path. put it on thick ish, let it sit for a day then torque it up. Also started cleaning up wires and hooked up the fuel line.
Hangers are in. Ill swap the nylon nuts for brass ones once I can get some. It will likely be on pipe mock up though. Biggest challenge next is mounting the Moroso exp tank. I'm gonna cad up some options and fire up the 3d printer before I send anything to OSHcut. PXL_20251022_014021949.PORTRAIT.jpg
Forgot to show I got the engine wired and cleaned up with all the O2's routed. I made an extender from the Mustang wiring harness and used their female connector. Feels nice to reuse and repurpose. PXL_20251026_145340291.PORTRAIT.jpg
I also got started on making my MOROSO expansion tank mount. I may have gone overboard doing FEA on it but at 3 G in all directions:
1. I have almost no stress and can drop the thickness a gauge (maybe two)
2. Frequency is above 40Hz, winner winner chicken dinner!
3. Deformation is laughable
4. And its has enough adjustability to overcome tolerance stack / fit in the car
I will likely slot the main bracket and make the gussets tab and slot for weld, rerun it, then OSHcut here I come!
I also got started on making my MOROSO expansion tank mount. I may have gone overboard doing FEA on it but at 3 G in all directions:
1. I have almost no stress and can drop the thickness a gauge (maybe two)
2. Frequency is above 40Hz, winner winner chicken dinner!
3. Deformation is laughable
4. And its has enough adjustability to overcome tolerance stack / fit in the car
I will likely slot the main bracket and make the gussets slide it for weld, rerun it, then OSHcut here I come!
Are you planning on welding the bracket to the tank? You might check into 3M DP810 acrylic adhesive. We use it at my company for bonding lots of things where we need sanitation but can't have any distortion that full welds would cause. As long as you have the surface area it will hold.
Are you planning on welding the bracket to the tank? You might check into 3M DP810 acrylic adhesive. We use it at my company for bonding lots of things where we need sanitation but can't have any distortion that full welds would cause. As long as you have the surface area it will hold.
I'm going to get some blue devil brazing rods and at min get the gussets brazed on DIY since its 5052. Had not thought about welding them together, but I think I will get it 3d printed first, check fit, order the parts, braze gussets, then see how it all stacks up.
At min I can bolted it in place to get the position then potentially weld.
Mockup of the expansion tank and per routing cooling hoses went well. Never mind the blue tape, I just wasn't ready to add the holes on the chassis just yet till I get the real part and use the transfer punch. I think this is high enough to burp the system, just also fearful of hitting the body if I go too far the other way. Its been a while since I worked on the car so some details are a bit fuzzy, must take better notes when I stop you never know how long the break will be.
I also got my HPS sleeve bonded to the FFR supplied intake hose. I have a Bullitt intake which is the GT350 intake which means I have a TB that is marginally larger. The HPS sleeve works perfect and after the bonding and a swipe of some good copper rtv on the edge its sealed up. Left it copper as it will be easier to see failures at first, I'll likely top coat it with black once I have confidence. All the rest of the hoses fell in place well, and I have the TB MAF sensor to the front. I think this is the latest consensus for placement with the least amount of issues. IMG_20251106_221711_059.jpgIMG_20251106_221711_087.jpgIMG_20251106_221710_992.jpgIMG_20251106_221711_043.jpg
Next up is finishing the PS exhaust and bungee mount, torque the DS flange bolts once I can swap the SHCS for hex, install the forte cable clutch parts, then hopefully once the OshCut parts get here braze the bracket parts and install.
Car is 90% plumed, just need the cool tube for the lower to get here and It will be ready to add fluids. The custom expansion tank mount worked out great, I decided against brazing in the gussets, its stiff enough. I think it turned out well.
Next step is to figure out what to do next. Its damn cold in the garage, takes the heater at least an hour to get the air working, and Ive been limited to the weekend on time. May be thinking on detailing the dash and wrapping the leather AT least that I can do in the basement. PXL_20251206_203822937.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20251206_210141831.jpgScreenshot_20251209-093526.jpg
Updates haven't been as regular... its friggin cold up here in Northern MI. and the garage is hard to work in more than 4 hours. I've relocated the next portion of the build to the basement ( after the glue de-gasses) but I've started to wrap the dash. I am using the FFR pad and leather. I'm sure there is nicer stuff out there but my plan it to have the tri panel for the gauges PC black and it should look nice and clean. Which segways' into the next item... powder coating. Had the option to go back to the coater for all my hinges and little parts or go buy my own setup. They did an awesome job on my wheels but I settled on Eastwoods for less than half of what the pro wanted. I figure I would use it for other projects so why not. Waiting on the oven as its on a 2 week delay but I know I wont get to it till after xmas so no big deal. I have all the parts set aside / removed ready for cleaning and prep. Also looking at sending my gauges out to Speed hut for some personalization, got the majority of the idea down but still poking at it. Exciting stuff coming! option4 (1).jpgScreenshot_20251223-072933.png
Also, Merry Xmas to me... I decided after much resistance to change from the manual rack to the FFR KRC PS setup. For those that don't know its not as much for dry park or cruising effort. The PS setup allows for more Caster which gives better stability at higher speed / less darty. One more thing I get to assemble with DAD so it will be worth it for the time spent together! Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Also, Merry Xmas to me... I decided after much resistance to change from the manual rack to the FFR KRC PS setup. For those that don't know its not as much for dry park or cruising effort. The PS setup allows for more Caster which gives better stability at higher speed / less darty. One more thing I get to assemble with DAD so it will be worth it for the time spent together! Merry Christmas to you and yours!
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.... I decided to order 2 more and make all 6 red. I'll likely put 2 white somewhere else for back up lights. These things are so small they may sit next to or just below the license plate in the body. 
