Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

[burchfieldb]

Looking good Tim! I really like those gauges, what do the other ones look like?

[PNWTim]

Looking good Tim! I really like those gauges, what do the other ones look like?

These are terrible pictures but I think you get the idea:

OIl and Water.JPG

Fuel and Water.JPG

[PNWTim]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.

Dash Mount.JPG

[Papa]

Tim,

Can you trim that mounting tab and still have enough to drill and rivet it in place without covering the serial number?

Dave

[Papa]

Can you share which Quantum Fuel Systems part number you ordered? They have a Walbro pump kit with a 12-month warranty, and a similar kit with a lifetime pump warranty. I went to the Pro-M Racing site to order my go-to hanger until I saw what they want for it these days. No way I'm paying $400 for a pump hanger!!!

[JimStone]

They must have slapped that SN on a little too far to the right. I don't think I have that problem.


By the way, if you're making a custom dash, I'd recommend making sure the steering shaft angle is appropriate for your seats/seating position. I needed to shift the pillow block the left an inch to suit my sitting position.

[PNWTim]

Tim,

Can you trim that mounting tab and still have enough to drill and rivet it in place without covering the serial number?

Dave

Dave - that's a great idea. I think I can probably shave at least 1/4" and be able to shift the dash an equivalent amount.

[PNWTim]

Can you share which Quantum Fuel Systems part number you ordered? They have a Walbro pump kit with a 12-month warranty, and a similar kit with a lifetime pump warranty. I went to the Pro-M Racing site to order my go-to hanger until I saw what they want for it these days. No way I'm paying $400 for a pump hanger!!!

I purchased this one after a bit of research. A shout out to @BlitzBoy for turning me onto these guys. I actually have a Pro-M hanger through a weird turn of events and comparing the two they look identical. The unit I installed has a 340 LPH Flextech pump. It also has a lifetime warranty.

https://www.highflowfuel.com/fuel-pu...350ft-606-qfs/

[PNWTim]

They must have slapped that SN on a little too far to the right. I don't think I have that problem.


By the way, if you're making a custom dash, I'd recommend making sure the steering shaft angle is appropriate for your seats/seating position. I needed to shift the pillow block the left an inch to suit my sitting position.

I'm not really making a different shaped dash, just going a different direction with gauge placement, etcetera. Your comment about seat and wheel placement is well noted though. I think it might make me a bit crazy if the pilot, seat and wheel aren't all pointed in a similar direction.

[edwardb]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.

Had to look at mine to remember what I did. Confirmed about half the numbers are covered. I installed the dash with screws vs. rivets. For that tab just a single screw tapped into the relatively thick frame rail. So if viewing the full number is necessary, I would just back out the screw so the whole number could be seen. In Michigan, we have a separate VIN tag installed elsewhere (probably like most states) and the VIN number is a completely different number than the chassis serial number. To date, the only time the serial number was technically required was if the officer doing my inspection wanted to compare my Certificate of Origin to the serial number on the chassis. I offered. He didn't. Cutting back the tab is another option. I wouldn't offset the entire dash just for that.

[PNWTim]

Had to look at mine to remember what I did. Confirmed about half the numbers are covered. I installed the dash with screws vs. rivets. For that tab just a single screw tapped into the relatively thick frame rail. So if viewing the full number is necessary, I would just back out the screw so the whole number could be seen. In Michigan, we have a separate VIN tag installed elsewhere (probably like most states) and the VIN number is a completely different number than the chassis serial number. To date, the only time the serial number was technically required was if the officer doing my inspection wanted to compare my Certificate of Origin to the serial number on the chassis. I offered. He didn't. Cutting back the tab is another option. I wouldn't offset the entire dash just for that.

Thanks Paul, that makes sense as well. I am pretty sure Oregon will issue a vin and tag (although not certain of that) and I too plan to make my dash removable without having to drill out rivets. I appreciate you taking a look.

[Namrups]

I am hoping to obtain feedback from other coupe builders on this one. While positioning the dash I noticed if I center it between the roll bars, the end cap mounting pad wants to cover up the last couple of digits on the serial number engraved in the cross bar. If I clamp it where the picture shows, my dash has no gap on the PS rollbar and about 5/8" on the DS. I am also slightly off center of the steering shaft. Is this just something we live with? I can force the centering of the dash but then the end caps get flexed pretty hard and aren't really "square" to the face of the dash. Thanks in advance.

Dash Mount.JPG

Mine was the same way. I just trimmed the dash to clear the serial number.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Scott, it's great to get confirmation.

[PNWTim]

I have been in a bit of holding pattern waiting for powder coating and other items. I did take care of a few things over the last week. I wanted to get rid of the engine pallet so it didn't take so much space in the shop. I bought some inexpensive, weight-rated casters and mounted them to the stand the engine came with. I didn't really want to mount the engine to my upright engine stand quite yet so I thought this was a good compromise:

Engine with Casters.jpg

I also received a test shell seat from a great guy in Texas. These seats are used regularly in Singer Porsche builds. They have a separate head rest which I like. It's a pretty tight fit but if I have to cut off the harness tabs and move them I will. I am waiting on the mounts and sliders so I can do a real mock up but I am pretty pleased with how they fit so far.

Seat Fitting.JPG

I also received my cruise control module from Dakota Digital today. It was backordered for almost two months after the release was announced, but Summit finally delivered it to me today. I now have all of my electronics and can move forward with planning and installation. Looking forward to moving the pile forward in this area.

DD CC.jpg

[JimStone]

Oh man, I forgot about the Dakota cruise control. I looked at that a few months ago then forgot.

I'll be interested in how you describe the install. I'm not sure I want to add more electronics. Seems I've got wires everywhere. But it would be nice to have

[PNWTim]

Today I did the final mockup of my dash layout. There are a few details I need to work out but this is more or less where everything will land. I have also started laying out the electronics modules but I only have a couple as I am going old school with ignition key and push button starter (no Digital Gaurd Dog, etc.) but I am going to have a module for the cruise control and the remote to actuate the door poppers along with a few relays and buss bars.

Dash Mock Up.jpg

[bishes]

I like where you put the four smaller gauges. I've been mocking up different options for my car and something similar has been at the top of my list.

[JimStone]

I like the gauge layout. Custom and cool looking.

What are you thinking of covering the dash with?

[PNWTim]

I am not quite sure yet other than it will be upholstered. I have been kicking around the idea of a full length brow that is a little more rounded and built up a bit which will require a professional's hand to finish. Not quite in my wheelhouse. I have been modeling my dash layout after a Series 1 XKE (very loosely). I have always liked that layout and I may go so far as to have a different material in the center. This is really the only area where I can apply a little creative license so I want to explore all my options.

E Type Dash.jpg

series_1_roadster.jpg

I am incorporating the same style of switches and will probably have a bit of a wiring nightmare ahead of me as I am going off the reservation and will have to figure out how to incorporate all the components. It's a lot easier when using LED lighting - the amperage requirements are quite a bit lower especially when incorporating relays. I really want to use the headlight paddle switch but it might be a bridge too far. For perspective, the Jag dash is 8" wider than the Coupe dash so there is a lot going on in a small space.

[Papa]

The gauge layout looks good, Tim. I'm hoping that by the time I get to that point on my build that FFR will have a carbon fiber dash available like the one in the CF 30th anniversary coupe they just debuted.

[burchfieldb]

Looking good! Don't sell yourself short on the creative license, lots of opportunities to make it your own.

[460.465USMC]

Today I did the final mockup of my dash layout. There are a few details I need to work out but this is more or less where everything will land. I have also started laying out the electronics modules but I only have a couple as I am going old school with ignition key and push button starter (no Digital Gaurd Dog, etc.) but I am going to have a module for the cruise control and the remote to actuate the door poppers along with a few relays and buss bars.

Sweet layout, Tim. You're making it your own. I like it.

P.S. Thanks for posting the cruise control update. Hadn't planned on it, but it's giving me something to think hard about. I use cruise all the time in my DDs, around town, etc. Not a cheap upgrade, but a very functional one for me.

[PNWTim]

Sweet layout, Tim. You're making it your own. I like it.

P.S. Thanks for posting the cruise control update. Hadn't planned on it, but it's giving me something to think hard about. I use cruise all the time in my DDs, around town, etc. Not a cheap upgrade, but a very functional one for me.

Thanks Chris. You are correct, it's not inexpensive but it's one of those things I would rather have it and not use it than the other way around. Like you, I use cruise all the time so there's no reason I can imagine I wouldn't use it in the Daytona.

Dakota stuff just tends to work and I am using their remote entry for my door poppers as well. Pretty easy to integrate.

[PNWTim]

In normal fashion, I have completed 10% of 90% of my tasks. I am really struggling with wanting to install panels but also not wanting them in my way. So I spent this afternoon applying Kill Mat and Noico (only because I have both and there truly is no difference). I lined all of the foot box panels and will apply 3/8" Thermozite over that as well as the carpet. I am going to use german square weave when the time comes. A requisite picture of my noise cancelling work:

Panel with Kill Mat.jpg

I also finished up my fuel line routing through the firewall. Stainless line is a bear to use and I don't think I would do it again. Given the short distance of the tunnel I would be much more inclined to do armored PTFE which is much, much easier to work with. Frankly you can run fuel line in this vehicle with very little exposure to random road debris so the need is somewhat mitigated from a safety standpoint.

Fuel through Wall.jpg

Diving into wiring full time over the next couple of weeks. Planning on stripping back most of the harness to diet unneeded items and install others that are. I don't really like plastic convolute so I'll probably be replacing a lot of it with expandable nylon on split loom depending on the situation.

[Lugnut Mark]

I really like your gauge layout .... can't wait till my kit arrives so I can copy your layout lol .... Thanks !

[PNWTim]

My wife and I spent a couple of weeks in Europe and had a great time. Visiting the picture below was a bucket list item for me. I lived in Germany for three years but never had an opportunity to really visit Bavaria so really special to finally make it there. Austria was as picturesque as we expected and all in all a fabulous destination. It was nice to get away and as always, good to be back:

Neuschwanstein.JPG

While I was out my brakes finally arrived. Over the last couple of days I installed both the front and rears. I opted for the Aerolite 6 kit from Gordon Levy for my build. I ran into the interference with the front caliper mounts that has been pretty well documented. I chose to modify both the caliper bracket and the spindle so I wasn't grinding too much from either. Used carbide burrs, a flat file and my sanding disc to shape the caliper bracket:

Caliper Bracket Mod.jpg

Spindle Grind.jpg

Spindle Clean Up.jpg

Brakes installed and good to go:

Front left

Front Brake Left.jpg

Left Rear

Left Rear Brake.jpg

I also took the time to fit, drill and prepare the battery mount tray. I used 1/4-20 inserts to mount. The tray is in the "soon to be powder coated" box. I am using the Odyssey ODS-AGM28L battery. I really wanted to use an Optima Yellow Top but it was simply too large for the space allowed.

Battery Bracket Riv Nuts.jpg

Battery Mount.jpg

I have a few details to finish re: the brakes. I don't like the fact one of the Wilwood E-Brake cables is about 18" too long. My kit from F5 didn't come with the Wilwood E-Brake adapters or I would simply use one of the kit supplied cables that are the correct length. Just need to mull this over a bit and figure out what I want to do. I also realized I need to fabricate all four of the flex brake line junction mounts. I have some 1 1/4" aluminum 1/8" bar stock I think will work. I thought the kit came with brackets but if so I can't find them so fabrication it is.

And, of course, I need to bend, flare and mount my hard lines. I was waiting until I had my brakes in hand so I could truly see where the flex lines needed to go, etc. So time to bend, rebend, throw away, start over, bend, flare, crack the flare....looking forward to it.

[Papa]

My wife and I spent a couple of weeks in Europe and had a great time. Visiting the picture below was a bucket list item for me. I lived in Germany for three years but never had an opportunity to really visit Bavaria so really special to finally make it there. Austria was as picturesque as we expected and all in all a fabulous destination. It was nice to get away and as always, good to be back:

Neuschwanstein.JPG

I spent seven and a half years in Germany, six of that in Bavaria. I have many fond memories from my time there.

[460.465USMC]

Looks like an awesome trip, Tim! Happy you guys were able to enjoy it.

Regarding the brake junction mounts, I think I may have you covered. I'll make a note to check later on and give you a text. They're yours de gratis if you want them.

[PNWTim]

So, have been making good progress on my brake lines but have run into an odd situation. While trying to root around and find my inverted flare brackets I decided to make one. I wanted to have a template I could clamp up to ensure my hardline routing was terminating in the correct location, height, etc. In the process of doing this I started to realize my -3 an to inverted flare fittings were a hodgepodge. Now, these came out of Wilwood packaging with the flex lines, so I don't even know what to think. I was somewhat doubting what I was seeing but took the time today to determine what each of them actually is. A picture for reference:

Inverted Flare Fittings.jpg

The two on the left are metric - 1.5 X 10 I believe. The second from the right is a 7/16 - 20 and the one on the far left is correct with a 3/8 - 24 inverted flare. I let Gordon Levy know the situation and ordered 3 replacements for the four oddballs but pretty weird.

[PNWTim]

Looks like an awesome trip, Tim! Happy you guys were able to enjoy it.

Regarding the brake junction mounts, I think I may have you covered. I'll make a note to check later on and give you a text. They're yours de gratis if you want them.

Very generous Chris, thank you. Let me know what you find out when you get a chance.

[flight_83]

Nice to see another Coupe being built in Oregon. Go Ducks ��

[PNWTim]

Well, I guess a little vacation accelerated my need for a lift. I originally built my shop with scissored trusses to have a 12' internal height. It took me about 10 years to pull the trigger but I finally did and have spent the last week or so picking it up (which was an adventure), unpacking, unloading, moving, and finally placing it upright tonight. Although my concrete floor was very well done I have a bit of unevenness to address. Neither post is plumb and one is about 1/2" lower than the other. So going to work out the shims, etc. to get it all squared and plumb and then off to the races. The angle of the photo makes them look worse than they are:

Lift 1.jpg

Lift 2.jpg

[460.465USMC]

Oh, boy! You're going to love it. Congrats! I bought my four-post in 2016. I couldn't part with it, so moved it twice as we sold/bought houses.

[PNWTim]

Drilled my first anchor hole today, hit rebar 3 inches in and destroyed my bit. I have three new ones coming and hope to tame the beast tomorrow.

[Papa]

Drilled my first anchor hole today, hit rebar 3 inches in and destroyed my bit. I have three new ones coming and hope to tame the beast tomorrow.

Go to Home Depot and rent a rotary hammer drill. It will take you ten minutes to drill all your anchor holes. It'll also go right through rebar without any drama.

[PNWTim]

I actually have one, a pretty nice Milwaukee. And I was using a carbide four tooth Bosch rebar bit so not exactly sure what happened but I hit either rebar or a rock so hard it rounded over the carbide and smoked the bit. I ordered two standard bits and a special rebar bit from Bosch which will be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

[PNWTim]

I am back to work on the car after installing my lift. The brake lines were not something I was looking forward to as I seem to struggle a bit with the geometry and angle of the dangle. I have made patterns, used all kinds of measuring devices and many more feet of tubing than necessary, but I did get it finished. I hadn't used my flaring tool in a couple of years so I had to familiarize myself all over again.

Brake Line 4.jpg

This is a really nice tool but if you're not careful, it will produce a flare that looks like this:

Brake Line 1.jpg

You want them to look like this:

Brake Line 2.jpg

Used the heavy Q rivets for the transition plates (big shout out to Chris) on both front and rear locations:

Brake Line 7.jpgBrake Line 8.jpg

I also opted to run my rear brake divider offset so I could run my rear feed line through the tunnel, next to the fuel line:

Brake Line 6.jpg

A quick shot of the pedal box with routing of lines similar to others:

Brake Line 3.jpg

Planning on installing the reservoirs and footboxes in the next couple of days.

[burchfieldb]

I feel your pain on this one. It took me a bit to get the brake lines done.

[460.465USMC]

The brake lines were not something I was looking forward to as I seem to struggle a bit with the geometry and angle of the dangle. I have made patterns, used all kinds of measuring devices and many more feet of tubing than necessary, but I did get it finished. I hadn't used my flaring tool in a couple of years so I had to familiarize myself all over again.

First of all, that's very funny. Second, boy, can I relate! My pea brain doesn't do well on bending the lines. In fact, I may have struggled even more the second time around. For me, it's probably one of the most challenging tasks of the entire build. Congrats on the SS lines. You'll be ready to fill and bleed soon. Looks fantastic!

[PNWTim]

Nothing too earthshaking but I have been making a little bit of progress. I permanently installed my fuel tank which allowed me to rivet in the drop trunk:

Drop Trunk and Rear Harness.jpg

I also riveted in the outside footbox panels on both sides:

DS Foot Box Riveted.jpg

PS Foot Box Riveted.jpg

I also installed the fuse box and am in the process of unwrapping and rewrapping the main harness so I can steer some of it where it needs to go.

Fuse Box Install.jpg

I decided to go off the res a bit on my dash. I am epoxying a doubler on the backside to stiffen it up and make it a little easier to fill the unwanted holes provided by FF.

Dash Doubler 1.jpg

Dash Doubler.jpg

Dash Doubler 2.jpg

I have also spent some time with wiring, which is probably where I am going next. I have a healthy dislike of plastic convolute so I am rewrapping most of the harnesses. I de-pinned the connectors for both the front and rear harnesses so I can run them through bulkhead pass throughs. I am replacing the convolute with a woven split wrap. I am also going to replace some of the connectors provided by Ron Francis with Deutsch connectors to reduce a little bulkiness. It's a lot of unnecessary work but something I enjoy doing.