Well, the time has come. Expecting delivery in the next week on my M5 Anniversary Edition. Motor will be a BP stage 2 427. Opted for the 18” wheels instead of the 17” wheels that are standard on the roadster. Also opted for PS and PB. Most everything else is fairly standard on the Anniversary Edition.
I live in Mooresville NC and have what I consider to be an intermediate background wrenching. Rebuilt a 1989 Chevy Blazer which included BP motor replacement, 1972 Jeep CJ which was mostly a refresh. Some modern wrenching on an LS3 2010 Camaro, blower install and meth added along with suspension upgrades for the strip.
It’s been a dream to build a FFR since I can remember. I’m retired now and have the time and the space to get er done. I’ll be trying to update my progress daily or at least the days I wrench. Hoping the community here can get me through this project.
Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.
Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.
At least they are parts that you won't be needing for some time. I wouldn't worry about backordered parts, FFR has an excellent reputation for support on backorders, missing or faulty parts. They supported me well, on the other side of the world.
It's a great project and the end result will definitely keep you smiling.
Cheers,
Nige
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
Good to hear your in NC, I’m sure I’ll be reaching out. Just received the my kit today. I was a little disappointed in how many missing and back ordered parts I have. But I’m sure FFR will be good about getting everything to me. I was missing rather large items like wheels and tires and seats. Here are a couple of photos.
My advice is leave the parts in the numbered boxes if you can. I tried to “organize” them myself and it has been stressful finding parts. also my BO list had check marks which meant it was actually shipped which was confusing. I highlighted the parts that were missing on the box checklist so that when I was “missing” a part from the instructions I would know it was back ordered. Good luck!
So today I was able to get my inventory done and get the body off and stored on my homemade body buck on my lift. I used the lift for box storage also. I numbered the boxes on all four sides for easy Identification later.
I was able to get my first part installed which was exciting, so the PS rack is in. I was disappointed because I only received one of the metal sleeves that goes into the new bushings for the rack. So I installed it and will need to go back and push the sleeve in later.
The body was a little bit of a pain in the butt, but it finally popped off. All of my coated panels were not installed, so it’s like a giant jig saw puzzle. But overall I’m very excited and got a lot of organization done today.
My frame is on two rolling dolly's made by Eastwood, so far I’m very happy with them. They fit great and make pushing the frame around easy. I made a body buck that fits between the rails in my lift, I used the regular measurements for the four posts that fit under the body wheel flare openings. So far I’m happy with that.
I know you have a single car garage and not a lot of storage space. Will your set up allow you to put the frame on the 4 poster lift, work at a very comfortable height and save your back! The body is relatively light and many have stored close to the ceiling with simplistic winch straps. Just a thought.
I know you have a single car garage and not a lot of storage space. Will your set up allow you to put the frame on the 4 poster lift, work at a very comfortable height and save your back! The body is relatively light and many have stored close to the ceiling with simplistic winch straps. Just a thought.
I have ceiling straps and can hang it from the ceiling when needed. Just using the lift for storage. This is just temporary we will use the lift when needed. I have another three car garage attached to the house. The body buck that’s sitting on the lift in the rails also has wheels. So does the frame so moving everything around just takes a few moments.
Congratulations on the new project, you are in for a really fun journey. Good call on the power brakes, if I end up doing another roadster will definitely go with power brakes. Looking forward to seeing your build come together.
I also have the 30th Anniversary Mk V and live about an hour from you (just outside Charlotte). I finally got a forum account created and will start my own build thread, feel free to shoot me a PM if you ever need help or see how me and my dad are getting along with our build. What number did you get? My kit is #6
Build #1: B&B Roadsters Cobra Replica, completed 2010. ~27k miles and counting Build #2: 1968 Chevelle, frame off resto-mod. Completed 2017, ~20k miles and counting Build #3: FFR Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe; picked up 03/2023, completed 11/2024 - SOLD!!! Build #4: FFR 30th Anniversary Mk V Roadster #6, picked up 05/30/25.
I also have the 30th Anniversary Mk V and live about an hour from you (just outside Charlotte). I finally got a forum account created and will start my own build thread, feel free to shoot me a PM if you ever need help or see how me and my dad are getting along with our build. What number did you get? My kit is #6
I’ll follow your build and likewise, let me know if you need anything. Thanks
Worked up the Drivers side steering and suspension today. I was able to get through most of it. My Torque wrench was only good to 200 Ft Lb, so time for a bigger torque wrench for the Center hub bolts. Contacted FFR, they said they will send me the three metal sleeves for the passenger side and steering rack. Do you receive tracking numbers when they ship you something? No real issues so far.
I was a little concerned I had to thread the tie rods all the way down to achieve the starting 53 1/16” measurement the manual calls for. Did any one cut anything of the Power steering rack to shorten the threads slightly?.
I lined up the wheels best I could once I got the steering wheel attached. I was very close to the end of the threads, but did not need to cut anything.
Today was another front end day, finished up most of the passenger side. No real issues to report on the front end. I wanted to talk a little about the fact FFR doesn’t include a manual anymore. You are expected to download the manual and use it electronically. I was a little disappointed in this at first, but I received this gift for Father’s Day which has changed my life. I can now mount my IPad at eye level with adjustability and not have to pick it up or set it down constantly. Best gift ever!
I have those same floor tiles on my garage. I installed them in winter and they were fine. Now with the summer heat they have expanded and bunch up at the seams. I looks terrible now and is actually even a tripping hazard in some spots. Did you use adhesive or just lay them on the floor? Notice any trouble?
Thanks
Crapola - title is supposed to be WAY off topic
Shizzle
I have those same floor tiles on my garage. I installed them in winter and they were fine. Now with the summer heat they have expanded and bunch up at the seams. I looks terrible now and is actually even a tripping hazard in some spots. Did you use adhesive or just lay them on the floor? Notice any trouble?
Thanks
Crapola - title is supposed to be WAY off topic
Shizzle
I bought these at Lowe’s 5 years ago and have never had a problem. They are just floating, no adhesive.
I know this is a step everyone goes through, but thought I would post my results and tools used. I initially was going to try and use the sawzall the manual shows, but quickly followed other people’s advise and used my handheld Dewalt cut off wheel tool. It made nice accurate work of the tab. The 5/8” hole chase was easy, slow and steady. I used a new sharp bit with some tap oil very so often, cut through like butter. The oil keeps a lot of the aluminum shards clumped up which is nice for cleanup. I finished off de burring with a handheld Milwaukee band sander. Love this tool, makes quick work on metal cleanup.
My problem of the day was a stubborn wheel stud (one of the new ones) it just didn’t want to go in and ended up recking the threads. So had to order a new one. All the rest went in with no issues using the washer and lug nut method.
My problem of the day was a stubborn wheel stud (one of the new ones) it just didn’t want to go in and ended up recking the threads. So had to order a new one. All the rest went in with no issues using the washer and lug nut method. Posted a pic of my tools used.
So the diff went into today, I’m not going to bore everyone with the same old story. But It’s the same old story, it was a heavy weight fight for two hours. I finally won the fight after the full ten rounds. I think the diff is a right of passage on these builds.
Today was a good day. Was able to get in the rear end, shafts, suspension and Sway bar. The Clevis joints had to be opened up slightly on several pieces, but overall nothing to difficult today or problematic. Nothing is torqued yet, I’m going to tackle the brakes in the next few days.
I am going with the Wildwood ebrake, my original cable actuated Wildwood ebrakes will be up for sale at some point if someone is interested. Still no idea from FFR when my tires and wheels will arrive, they won’t even guess on a date. I’m close to having a roller, so it would be nice to get some news.
Today I finished up the rear end with the Brakes, nothing to hard to report. The Wildwoods were a little tedious with the shimming but I managed to get everything dialed in. I’m also using the Electric actuated Wildwood E brake. The only difference is you need to reverse the sides for the brakes because the plug adapter will interfere with the shock. I love the simplicity of this setup vs the cables. I also like less clutter and keeping things simple which this does.
On that same not Ive pieced together my fuel system. I’ll be running a return-less system with a Holly In tank pump running through a Radium Engineering Filter to a Pulse Damper just prior to the Sniper2, pressure gauge will be at the damper. Fuel tank install is next on the list. I’ll need to open up the whole to accommodate my fuel pump. Should get this started tomorrow.
My father in law came over and helped me get the tank in, it was a little more difficult than anticipated. My Fuel pump when installed was interfering with the edge of the baffle in this tank, had to put a slight bend in the Alum bracket that holds the pump to clear the edge of the baffle. Holly called for the pump to sit approx 1” off the bottom of the tank so not to pick up debris or water. Just seemed a little wired since I don’t work on fuel systems that often. But after it cleared the edge of the baffle it went in fine.
Even after I thought I did a thorough inventory I was missing the bolts that attach the tank straps to the frame, had to make a run to the bolt store. I was also missing the small frame plugs that rest on the frame to tank.
I big question is for you experienced roadster builders, did you wait until the motor was in to run your fuel and brake lines? I’m leaning towards waiting just to see how everything fits together. I don’t want to punch a bunch of holes only to relocate stuff later. Any advice would be nice?
Do any of you have any pictures of where you mounted your fuel filters and charcoal canisters? Going to get that done soon.
Working on the pedal box, decided to get some more experience powder coating so I did some of the bare parts for the box. Did them in a bronze which looks better than bare metal. Bought an Eastwood kit which works great. 1 hour from start to finish I have a coated part.
So we finished up a lot of the foot box and got the steering sorted for the most part, you definitely need to cut the shafts to get the steering out of binding mode. Needs a little Patience working with everything.
The accelerator pedal can be mounted in a position of your choice, you can drill holes in the frame plate and mount where you like according to a FFR tech call. Just make sure you have your steering shaft and pedal box installed so it doesn’t interfere. I’m going to be using the Lokar throttle cable with the attaching bracket for the sniper 2.
First panel was installed and this black anodizing is really nice, very scratch resistant compared to powder coat.
Ready to make this thing a roller, but FFR still has no estimate or ship date in my wheels and tires.IMG_1212.jpegIMG_1209.jpgIMG_1210.jpegIMG_1211.jpeg
I'm also in the Charlotte area, Harrisburg to be exact. I'll be following your build and be living vicariously through you. I've got two young teenagers that will probably want to go to college someday, so I'm probably looking at building somewhere in the 35th-40th Anniversary Kit timeframe. I've got a '65 Fastback coming in a few weeks, so that'll have to keep me busy for a little while. Looks like you're off to a great start, keep up the good work!
I'm also in the Charlotte area, Harrisburg to be exact. I'll be following your build and be living vicariously through you. I've got two young teenagers that will probably want to go to college someday, so I'm probably looking at building somewhere in the 35th-40th Anniversary Kit timeframe. I've got a '65 Fastback coming in a few weeks, so that'll have to keep me busy for a little while. Looks like you're off to a great start, keep up the good work!
Thanks, both I’ve mine just moved out of the house. It’s been a great experience so far. Just finished up some panels on the passenger foot box. I’m really trying to slow roll my build, I’m powder coating most bare metal pieces and trying not to rely on the hammer build method. I’ve got some ideas for custom touches along the way. Wish I could get my wheels and tires at this point since it’s ready to at least roll. The panel installation is slow going and somewhat tedious.
I put in the power brake booster today, I hated the silver crappy finish so I gave it a rough black paint job and a coat of clear. Powder coated the bracket also. At least it matches the other brakes and PS rack now.
I’ve also been messing with the turn signal stalk and mechanism. I’ve been reading some other MV threads, this design is not user friendly. I’m a little surprised FFR is using this design. Even if you get it shimmed and aligned properly it still looks fragile and prone to problems quickly. I’m going to mess with it again tomorrow.
Still having a blast working on the car, still waiting on any word for tires and wheels. Engine should be here by the end of the month.
So we finished up a lot of the foot box and got the steering sorted for the most part, you definitely need to cut the shafts to get the steering out of binding mode. Needs a little Patience working with everything.
The accelerator pedal can be mounted in a position of your choice, you can drill holes in the frame plate and mount where you like according to a FFR tech call. Just make sure you have your steering shaft and pedal box installed so it doesn’t interfere. I’m going to be using the Lokar throttle cable with the attaching bracket for the sniper 2.
First panel was installed and this black anodizing is really nice, very scratch resistant compared to powder coat.
Ready to make this thing a roller, but FFR still has no estimate or ship date in my wheels and tires.IMG_1212.jpegIMG_1209.jpgIMG_1210.jpegIMG_1211.jpeg
Reddrig, did you fully install your Lokar cable to the firewall? I could not get the nut on the footwell side of the firewall because the welded bracket was too close to the factory drilled cable passthrough hole. I had to drill another hole further from the framework. Hope my cable angles are still OK.
Ralph
Reddrig, did you fully install your Lokar cable to the firewall? I could not get the nut on the footwell side of the firewall because the welded bracket was too close to the factory drilled cable passthrough hole. I had to drill another hole further from the framework. Hope my cable angles are still OK.
Ralph
I took a few more photos to show the position, I was able to just get mine in with probably a 1/4 mm of clearance. I took a,picture of what my cable looks like also. Hope these photos help. On my tech call he said you can drill new holes or use the ones already there, I think it depends on exactly where you mount your pedal assembled also. I think you’ll be fine.
Mounted my reservoirs in a fairly common spot. They just fit inside with approx 1 mm clearance. I thought about mounting them on the engine side of the same wall, but decided I like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible. You probably won’t see these with the body in but I’m ok with that.
Started running some brake lines and made a mess out of the first line. I was able to get the first line finished today so that was some progress. Lastly I finally was able to get the turn signal stalk and unit centered to where it cancels in both directions. Had to try 10 different combinations of shims.
Mounted my reservoirs in a fairly common spot. They just fit inside with approx 1 mm clearance. I thought about mounting them on the engine side of the same wall, but decided I like to keep as much clutter out of the engine bay as possible. You probably won’t see these with the body in but I’m ok with that.
Started running some brake lines and made a mess out of the first line. I was able to get the first line finished today so that was some progress. Lastly I finally was able to get the turn signal stalk and unit centered to where it cancels in both directions. Had to try 10 different combinations of shims.
Maybe the mk5 is different but I didn’t think you would want the tops on your reservoir higher than the rails. I think the body will rest on it? Also, how are you going to fill them with the body on?
It is however these will be somewhat obscured by the body.
Jeff
I actually got the idea from Erik Treves, his were mounted in the same triangle cut out. The top of the reservoir is above the Master Cylider so I’m fine with the level. It probably will make filling or topping off a chore, but hopefully I won’t be doing that often. They sit below the level of the fender aluminum panel or at least my hasty calculations had them below.
If some of you more experienced builders no something I don’t please let me know. This was a picture of Erik’s location, only difference he mounted on the outside wall, I’m on the inside wall. Erik I plagiarized a shot from your video, hope you don’t mind.
I might need to put a slight left bend in the top of the Alum panel to clear the second reservoir, but I dint really like other locations. I’ll see how they work out.
Worked on finishing up the foot box on both sides. Finished the front brake lines and routed the rear brake line from the master to the Booster (60” line) was perfect with approx 5” removed). Single run from the master. Powder coated some brake line clips in bronze to match the frame. Getting ready to rivnut the top of the drivers side foot box for later access.
So far everything has gone ok with a few hiccups here and there. I’m waiting for word on my motor and wheels. Self canceling turn signals arrived today, I’m wondering if I can splice into the same harness as the turn signal kit that came from FFR. Im not sure if that long block connection mates up with the Ron Francis harness?
You're making great progress, you'll be flying along on I77 in no time! I'm also planning on using rivnuts for the driver side foot box although I don't know how accessible it will be with the body in place.
Build #1: B&B Roadsters Cobra Replica, completed 2010. ~27k miles and counting Build #2: 1968 Chevelle, frame off resto-mod. Completed 2017, ~20k miles and counting Build #3: FFR Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe; picked up 03/2023, completed 11/2024 - SOLD!!! Build #4: FFR 30th Anniversary Mk V Roadster #6, picked up 05/30/25.
I guess you could say I’m in the dog days of riveting hell! I’ve been trying to assemble these panels, keep in mind most of the panels were not installed when delivered because of the anodizing. They came wrapped and stacked in the frame. So it’s like a giant jig saw puzzle using video and the manual for a little help. But which overlap goes where and so on can get exhausting. I’m sure I’ve missed a few, but it’s coming around. Sometimes it’s hard to tell which rivets will be visible and what direction to rivet from for the best look. I’m going to leave the drivers side open for better tunnel access for the motor install.
My motor is in Dyno and should be here late next week. That’s exciting, although I still have no timeline on wheels and tires. So I guess I’ll get to the battery tray next and start the coolant system.
So after I posted the picture I realized a row of rivets should have been done from back to front so I drilled them out and did it again. I guess it’s good to post you catch your own mistakes.
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Originally Posted by rickster991
also my BO list had check marks which meant it was actually shipped which was confusing. I highlighted the parts that were missing on the box checklist so that when I was “missing” a part from the instructions I would know it was back ordered. Good luck!
however these will be somewhat obscured by the body.