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Black Side Pipes
We ordered our side pipes for the MK5 bare rather than stainless because I wanted to have them finished in black to match the black roll bar. For those of you who have black side pipes, did you have them cerakoted, powder coated, or did you just use black hi-temp header paint? Any and all suggestions and recommendations are welcome. For context, if you're going to recommend a shop, we are located in the Metro-Boston area of MA.
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I also ordered mine bare. I scuffed with scotchbrite pads, wiped them down, and hit them with several coats of Rustoleum hi-temp BBQ grill paint. I think they look great, and they're super easy to touch up if need be. I figure I'll put a tarp over the car once a year, mask off the pipes, and hit them with paint without even taking them off the car. That paint dries to the touch in 5 minutes.
Greg
Body Install 2.jpgBody Install 1.jpg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
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I had mine ceramic coated satin black by Jet Hot Coatings.
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22.
Build thread here.
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Not a waxer
Powder coating can't take the heat. I did my first car with a few coats off black BBQ paint and it did well for a couple of months until I did it's first track day at which time the long periods of high heat cooked it off of the 4 primary pipes ahead of the mufflers. After that I had them ceramic coated satin black. Many years of running R-Comp tires that throw every pebble or grain of sand eventually kind of sandblasted the pipes at the curve behind the front wheels but the rest was still intact and looking good when I sold it last year, 16 years later.
Jeff
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I ceramic coated mine the first time and will again in this one. I had a local shop do it.
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I applied several coats of this and it's holding up well.
https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-...t-TY27303.html
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I used black BBQ paint. Nice thing about it is that it's easy to touch up if it gets chipped.
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I used high heat spray paint too, and it looks good, but I can't speak to longevity because I'm still in go-kart mode. I ordered Gas-N pipes and I may do the same thing to those.
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I am underway building a MK5/Coyote and have FFR raw steel pipes + Raw GasN Headers (on order, now about 3 weeks out). I plan to either cerakote the Headers + Side pipes+ 2x Roll bars (black factory powder coated) + Drummer Mike (raw) heat shields….or…..BBQ paint them all…all at the same time. I want them all to match…not just close…I want them to match exactly. Either way I will be doing it all myself. I got estimates from Jet Hot ($$$$), I got advice from Georgie, and a few consultants from local shops….Greg (aka Gbranham) convinced me that it does not need to be overly complicated. His approach (as detailed above) is what I am leaning towards, and his results look great. For me, I changed the question from “how am I going to treat the pipes”…to more like:“ how do I want everything to look when I am done” and plan to give them all the same treatment. (Full disclosure……..THIS IS MY FIRST RODEO)
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I used the Rustoleum 2000 degree primer and paint. Scuffed the pipes, sprayed, heat cycled per the directions and they still look great so far after 3800 miles. Will be easy touch up if ever needed. This was the recommendation from Tubular Automotive that did the quiet pipe option among others. Like Jeff said, if you’re tracking the car that is a different application and may need another solution.
Last edited by John289; 05-01-2025 at 06:37 AM.
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I sandblasted my FFR side pipes when they were new. One can of Rustoleum BBQ paint on each pipe with no primer and heat cycled a couple of times. It's been three driving seasons 14,000 miles to include two trips to LCS and back and they still look very good.
Dave
MK4 Complete kit FFR9939. Gen 1 Coyote, Tremec 3650, IRS 3.31 ratio, Breeze radiator stuff, Breeze cubby and battery mount, North Race Cars heat and A/C, RT drop trunk kit, Replica Parts radiator aluminum and brake booster spacer, FFR soft top.
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BBQ paint for me too. So easy to touchup and so inexpensive you can't beat it.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
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I'll have mine ceramic coated again locally, but if you want to use a rattle can, there are a lot more options these days then just the Rust oleum. You've got VHT high temp paint and UPOL, who makes the Raptor product, also has a high temp offering. POR15 also makes a high temp spray. They have high temp clears as well if you want a little sheen.
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I originally ceramic painted mine but the shop that did it screwed it up. I started to have patina show through in areas. So I ended up sanding and using BBQ paint. Seems to be holding up.
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My understanding from the guy who applied cermet to my headers is that there really isn't any ceramic coating that ultimately won't chip if exposed like the front tubes of the side pipes are. I think the Gas-N site has a similar disclaimer.
As I mentioned above I'll likely use paint on the Gas-N pipes, but I'll have them cermet coated beforehand. That way I'll have the benefit of heat reduction and the ability to touch-up as several have noted in this thread.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Steve's Stupid Question:
Does Stainless Steel Accept Ceramic Coating Well If Properly Scuffed?
Last edited by GoDadGo; 05-01-2025 at 11:30 AM.
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Originally Posted by
GoDadGo
Steve's Stupid Question:
Does Stainless Steel Accept Ceramic Coating Well If Properly Scuffed?
Yep. They blast it before coating.
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I had my bare steel pipes ceramic coated by a Houston-area vendor. After 7 years of driving, the forward edge of the curved pipes behind the front tires got sand-/gravel-blasted enough to require some attention. I pulled the pipes off the car, stripped all the ceramic coating off with a wire wheel and then painted the pipes with rattle-can high temperature BBQ paint (satin black). The paint has lasted 9 years.
David
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After hearing all these stories I’ve changed my mind. I just ordered 2 cans of high temp POR15. Saved myself $600
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Forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know, but the sun's UV rays will cause the POR15 to develop a matte sheen "floating" on top of the black. Be mentally prepared to re-do some work if you find you don't like how that product ages over time.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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I did mine in white Cerecote. First engine run will probably be in the next few weeks so we'll see...
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Thank you for the quick and much appreciated feedback!!! Can anyone who used rust-oleum paint provide any pics? I'm curious to see how they look.
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Originally Posted by
phileas_fogg
Forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know, but the sun's UV rays will cause the POR15 to develop a matte sheen "floating" on top of the black. Be mentally prepared to re-do some work if you find you don't like how that product ages over time.
John
The POR15 high temp is UV stable, unlike their undercoating which is not and will turn a grayish color with sunlight exposure.
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I'm gonna find out either way. The powder coater I use doesn't charge that much to strip stuff. So worse case if I didn't like it down the road it would only be a few extra bucks for them to sand blast them before coating.
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Originally Posted by
cv2065
The POR15 high temp is UV stable, unlike their undercoating which is not and will turn a grayish color with sunlight exposure.
My mistake; thanks for the correction!
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
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This is the Rustoleum BBQ paint. Sorry I don't have any close up on me.Car1.jpgCar.jpg
Dave
MK4 Complete kit FFR9939. Gen 1 Coyote, Tremec 3650, IRS 3.31 ratio, Breeze radiator stuff, Breeze cubby and battery mount, North Race Cars heat and A/C, RT drop trunk kit, Replica Parts radiator aluminum and brake booster spacer, FFR soft top.
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IMG_1431.jpg
I left mine bare metal and drove it for a few weeks until they started to change colors and then had them clear ceramic coated. I kinda like the junkyard look...
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Originally Posted by
John289
I used the Rustoleum 2000 degree primer and paint. Scuffed the pipes, sprayed, heat cycled per the directions and they still look great so far after 3800 miles. Will be easy touch up if ever needed. This was the recommendation from Tubular Automotive that did the quiet pipe option among others. Like Jeff said, if you’re tracking the car that is a different application and may need another solution.
This is what I did too.
whitemnts.jpg
MK3 Challenge Car, Boss 347, Sniper 2 EFI
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Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
After hearing all these stories I’ve changed my mind. I just ordered 2 cans of high temp POR15. Saved myself $600
Are you saying someone was going to charge you $600? I originally had mine Ceramic Coated and it was $219. 5 years and 13,000 later I just had them re done. $360 this time. Still not $600.
MK IV Base Kit #9370 w/ FFR Lower Control Arms, donor 1996 Cobra 4.6 L DOHC; stage 2 Comp Cams, Manley forged Pistons & Rods, IMRC Delete Plates, T-45 transmission HD extra build w/ single disconnect reverse mod, 3-link w/ Koni Coil Overs 3:73 rear end. Painted and re-assembled Jan 2022.
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Originally Posted by
Peeker
Are you saying someone was going to charge you $600? I originally had mine Ceramic Coated and it was $219. 5 years and 13,000 later I just had them re done. $360 this time. Still not $600.
Jethot certainly does and if you look at the upcharge on GasN it's in that range. I actually don't know what the local guy would have charged me. I don't remember last time, his prices have gone up quite a bit. In my mind they have to sand blast them either way so really no downside to coating them myself. If down the road I regret it I can pay to have them done. If nothing else I am spreading a little bit of the cost of a very expensive build out over time.
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Originally Posted by
DW66
This is the Rustoleum BBQ paint. Sorry I don't have any close up on me.
Car1.jpgCar.jpg
Dave
That looks sharp!!
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Originally Posted by
Blitzboy54
I ceramic coated mine the first time and will again in this one. I had a local shop do it.

Those came out very nice!!!
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Originally Posted by
gbranham
Very nice!
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Originally Posted by
Takis31gk
Very nice!
Thanks. The passenger side is a bit dusty from enlarging the exhaust cutouts, but they clean up nice.
Greg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV
Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges