Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[F500guy]

Hi Craig, make sure when you tighten the clamp the bolt does not hit your heater. Other than that it seems similar to mine.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Lance!

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Confident with the feedback on my location for the wiper motor, I marked the holes and drilled out for 5/16" hardware. I chose simple hex head bolts so that I could get a wrench in there to remove it with the body on (if it ever came to that )

Here's a picture of the hole orientation wiper motor holes drilled.jpg and with the motor unit installed wiper motor installed.jpg

Thanks to Lance's recommendation to watch out for the band clamp bolt access, I simply turned it over so that the bolt is at the 8 o'clock position. I can still get a wrench in there and now there's plenty of room next to the heater blower unit

Here's a picture of the backside fasteners so you can see that there's room there for tools also...although I'm still not sure of my under-dash-support design...we'll see wiper motor installed backside detail.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I reached a dilemma: I'd like to locate my heater/defroster valve cable in the middle of the dash panel for aesthetics ... but this doesn't leave it long enough to permit the valve body to be located far enough towards the Passenger-side foot box top panel to be properly connected via the rubber heater hoses.

Here's a picture (see the red highlighted area) heater cable length dilemma.jpg

Did any of you have to figure this out? If so, what did you end up doing? Possible remedies are:
1) cut a short length of the aluminum heater tube off and reform the retention bead (the cheapo tube bead rollers aren't actually small enough )
2) make my own heater tubes that fit my intended layout better (same issues of fabrication as above)
3) find another off-the-shelf set of tubes (bead on one end and o-ring fitting on the other; 90deg bend
4) change my dash panel location
5) orient the hoses and valve so it goes towards the centerline of the engine (I've seen some other Roadsters like this...but I've got multi-point injection and it is "busy" in the intake manifold area already)

Any feedback is appreciated

To give me time to think about it, I'll move on to my next mini-project flex wave fan mockup.jpg

Happy Building!

Craig C

[Nigel Allen]

I mounted my heater control valve on the vertical panel just below the dashboard and above the transmission tunnel. In practical use either fully open or close the valve. I find the heat is much better regulated by fan speed. It might be better just to replace the mechanical cable with a 12 volt solenoid.

Cheers,

Nige

[cc2Arider]

Thanks for the idea Nigel!

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since my last post, I decided to make the FFR-supplied radiator fan connector fit my new Flexwave fan (with pigtails). It's the recommended fan from the experienced Builders and I got it from Summit...

I wanted to keep the FFR connector in case I feel like choosing another fan in the future, or go back to the original

I took a gamble on some 1/4" blade connectors that were long enough and had a retention tab to fit inside the plastic connector. I got them from Amazon (yuck), but it was cheap and easy...

Here's a picture flexwave fan connector.jpg

Happy building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

A couple of posts back I discovered that my preferred heater valve cable location was not long enough to fit with the available heater line fittings and 5/8" hose...

Wow! was I ignorant! It turns out that the heater line connections are somewhat standard and the fittings themselves are female #10 (or -10) o-ring beaded fittings.

I picked a short straight section and a short 90 section, then got a 2.5" x 2.5" 90 elbow hose (5/8")...combination shown in red section.

I fitted it up and easy-peasy! Here's a picture using the valve that John Ibele had used in his build(shown in green section) heater hose and valve length problem solved.jpg

The neat thing about this valve is that it bypasses instead of blocks the flow when closed

Happy building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I had purchased a Breeze upper and lower radiator mounting kit a few months back and recently decided to pair it with a Breeze 70813 fan shroud kit. This is the one that is made for the Flexwave fan (pulls more air and is more quiet than FFR-supplied unit)...

I've been pre-occupied with work, so I was just following the instructions and didn't think ahead...by the time I realized that the radiator upper hinge mounting (which called for 14 evenly-spaced holes) didn't line up with the standard holes with the 70813 kit, I had already drilled all of the 14 holes

Here's a picture that shows that there isn't enough room for a 1/4" hex head next to that hole that is supposed to be filled with a 1/8" rivet...bummer! Breeze instructions and flexwave shroud problem.jpg

What to do...what to do? I slept on it and the next morning it was a simple work-around! Mark had spaced the shroud mounting holes 14" apart. I simply drilled more holes to mount the shroud to the radiator and spaced them 2" apart. Then I simply chose a new "thru" hole per the instructions. The new hole is also very close to the width of the existing holes from the shroud to the fan itself. I'm happy with the decision...plus I like that there are more fastener locations...it is more aesthetic to me...
flexwave shroud hole problem solved.jpg

Next post -- radiator mock-up...

Until next time, Happy building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In the last post, I put together the Breeze upper hinge mount to the radiator and then figured out the hole spacing for the "flexwave" fan shroud so it would all fit together. The hinge required 14 evenly-spaced rivet holes and I chose to space the shroud mounting holes every 2"...

Next, since I remembered that drilling thru the SS hinge was more challenging than drilling thru the aluminum radiator and shroud, I decided to take my time and drill the 4 hinge-to-frame mounting holes with the hinge removed and in my vise so I could use those holes as a guide to drill precisely into the frame tube...

Next, I clamped the assembly to the front 3/4" square frame tube, making sure the hinge was evenly-spaced, the radiator was centered in the frame, and I drilled the remaining 4 holes. Here's a couple of pictures radiator mockup1.jpg radiator mockup2.jpg Note that the frame holes are just for the clecos for now...

Wowsers! What a well-made kit! I like it It fits really well at the 58deg angle -- not much room otherwise! This mock-up also proved to me that I could locate my front wiring harness at the top of the radiator (between the "channel") and it will be fine there ... although I'll need to move the fan wiring closer to the centerline of the chassis in order to reach the Flexwave wiring...which means I'll splice that fan ground wire to make it longer to fit

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got into the garage on a weeknight for a change and got a few things done for my radiator mockup. I selected some low-profile 1/4-20 nutserts for the hinge mount to the top cross frame tube, located 4 evenly-spaced holes, installed, and then fastened with some SS button head bolts. I like it!
radiator fastened to top cross tube with rivnuts and SS button head bolts.jpg

Then I removed the assembly and bench-installed the fan and shroud...then put back on the car. It fits NICE! Breeze makes some quality products
radiator mocked up with fan and shroud.jpg

I was tempted to finish the job of the lower mount this weekend, but those roll bars were calling me to do the tough job...

Craig C

[gbranham]

That breeze shroud makes the fan so effective. My lower radiator hose actually stays cool to the touch at operating temp. It's crazy.

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I was dreading this for a while, but decided it was time to tackle the rollbar drilling job

I emulated other Builder's who had mounted a simple, small, square section of plywood to my drill press base. It was a "hobby" piece from Lowes...Great idea! It was flat and true enough and had a little "give" so I didn't scratch the rollbar chrome. It was just large enough to support the rollbar, too... I used a combination of clamps and straight edges to hold down the rollbar, and my secret weapon was a tube or round stock "center finder" for use in the drillpress. I decided to keep the axis perpendicular to the hoop as it was clamped flat. There was a time when I had considered offseting the angle a little for the outer hoop tube, but decided against it because I couldn't clamp the rollbar effectively unless it was flat( more on that later) Here's the setup rollbar drillpress setup.jpg

Success for both hoops (centered and true)! Next, I wanted to fasten the back tube to the hoop, so I used a cheapo Harbor Freight drillpress vise, and drilled away with the same technique as before. Then I REALLY wanted to tap in one continuous process all the way thru the tubing, but I didn't have the right tap and settled on tapping from both directions (top/bottom). Anyway 5/16" coarse thread and some SS button heads and this is the result
rollbar frankenstein button head bolts.jpg rollbar frankenstein button head bolts2.jpg
I'm not sure about the washers, but that Driver's side really had flaking chrome The Passenger-side rollbar chrome wasn't flaky -- maybe because it isn't ordered as often and FFR chooses another chrome vendor? Something to ponder...

Next, I had to use a normal 5/16" twist bit, several step-bits and a 90deg angle attachment...and lots of concentration later, I had round holes thru all the tubes and mounting bosses -- no "wallered" holes!! Woo-hoo The "outboard" hoop bosses and the back tube bosses were the most challenging -- just not enough room. Here's a couple of pictures of the back tube holes drilled and fastened rollbar back tube fastening hole drilled.jpg rollbar all holes drilled into frame bosses.jpg

I'm glad this job is done and now I can get back to the radiator lower mount...something not as stressful!

Until next time,
Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got some properly-sized stainless flat washers for my rollbar bolts, and as a result, the "Frankenstein" bolts don't look weird

I also discovered how easily the chrome flakes off: I used some Nevr-Dull polishing pads (hand-applied), and that caused the chrome to flake off near a welded joint. See pictures... rollbar chrome flakeoff.jpg rollbar chrome flakeoff2.jpg

This makes me more confident that I took all precautions while drilling the holes. I'll look into getting a premium plating shop to address that...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I changed my mind about mounting the lower Breeze radiator mount until I decide what sort of shroud I want to use. I'm leaning towards the wrap-around style from our Preferred Vendor ...

So instead, I focused on getting the front wiring harness installed across the front 3/4" top cross tube... Here's the zip-tie mounts fastened to the tube with nut-serts front cross tube wire harness cable tie mounts with nutserts.jpg

I liked the idea of getting this part of the harness out-of-the-way, and as a result of this decision and using the more powerful flex-wave fan motor (which had shorter pig-tails), I needed to move the wiring along the harness so that it fit better. This meant removing the existing fan motor ground wire splice and moving it back about 6 inches. Here's a picture after moving the splice fan harness re-splice.jpg

Then I used some silicone tape to seal the joints fan harness re-splice with silicone tape.jpg and here it is in the final position fan harness re-splice in position.jpg

While I was at it, I decided some symmetry was in-order, so I spliced for the horn wiring to be duplicated on the Passenger sidepassenger side horn splice.jpg

Next post - part2...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Part2...making it look neat

I like the WireCare woven split loom for my Roadster project and that continued with the front harness...

Here's some picturesfront harness with sheathing1.jpg front harness with sheathing2.jpg front harness with sheathing3.jpg front harness with sheathing4.jpg front harness with sheathing5.jpg

I also use Tesa brand tape to keep the wires tidy prior to adding the split loom as well as for holding the sections of split loom together

That's it for now...I gotta finish my taxes next

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Sarcasticshrub]

Very clean wiring setup! Definitely a feel good moment when it comes together.

I needed to mock up the front wiring with substitute or actual items in place (radiator, aluminum, horn, lights, etc.) to keep from having another redo moment in the future.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Sarcasticshrub!

I am crossing my fingers that my crude measurements left me enough wire for the final installations

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I mentioned a while back that I wanted to replicate John Ibele's center console design. This weekend I tried to make it happen

First up: CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design)

center console initial CAD mockup.jpg center console initial CAD mockup2.jpg center console initial CAD mockup3.jpg

Fits pretty decent...next, I wanted to make it repeatable making a repeatable template.jpg cutout of repeatable template.jpg bent repeatable template.jpg

Next post: fitting the repeatable CAD template...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post: fitting the repeatable CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design) Center Console template...
repeatable template mockup1.jpg Good! Repeatable fitment...

Next, I was curious how my Dashpanel layout would look center console template mockup with competition layout.jpg

I'm glad I did this because I just didn't like the off-centered grouping of the "Competition" gauge layout

So then (like some previous Builders), I just centered it, and I liked it much better. Then, just for kicks, I decided to arrange my "switches" so that it made a trapezoidal look -- kindof a homage to the original AC gauge layout center console template mockup with modified competition layout.jpg

I'm not yet "sold" on that, but I do like the symmetry

Next post: transferring to metal...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I transfer my CAD (Cardboard-Aided-Design) to metal...

measurements laid-out and lines drawn transferring repeatable template to metal2.jpg

cut out metal center console pattern cut out.jpg

and bent metal center console pattern bent.jpg

I have to confess right here that my 1st bend was a little "off" but I kept at it anyway...this resulted in a non-optimal initial fitment

A little massaging with seam flange pliers, light hammer and dolly work, and some gentle persuasion, I got it to fit like the template
metal center console pattern adjusted fitment1.jpg metal center console pattern adjusted fitment2.jpg metal center console pattern adjusted fitment3.jpg

The verdict: I'd like to make some adjustments and try again since it will be a tight fit with upholstery leather on it -- I'd rather it be a little "loose" than "tight".

I hope this showed you that you can make your visualizations happen -- you just might need to do it over a couple of times

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In the last post I wasn't sure I wanted to stick with my 1st attempt at a center console, and in this post ... I made another one

This time, I tried to pay attention to the clamping force on my simple bench brake (so that the bends didn't "walk away"), and I accounted for the thickness of my upholstery

Here's the result (the leather in the pictures is just for mock-up) second center console1.jpg second center console2.jpg second center console3.jpg

I also tried out a hydraulic press brake attachment and used a wooden clothes hangar dowel to form the rounded edges (turned out pretty good)

Next, (as I mentioned in previous posts) I liked John Ibele's center console design and wanted to emulate the 289 Cobra's radiator opening shape for the Console door.

The intention is there...but the proportions don't quite look right...creating console door shape.jpg

I think it needs more width and less height. What do you think? Opinions welcome!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I'm pretty satisfied with my center console "concept", so while I "stewed" on the console door design, I thought I'd go back to some electrical harness design...

My Dash layout will be a modified "Competition" layout, but I'll have the Voltage, Fuel, and Clock gauges arranged above the Speedometer. I'll also locate my KeySwitch on the left-most part of the Dash Panel, and I'll include all of my rotary/pull switches along the bottom edge (Lights, Wipers, Heater). Then I'll add an OEM Cigarette lighter (for the 12v aux power), and a RAM mount for my GPS on the right side of the Speedometer, and I'll also add a horn circuit breaker switch (I'll explain that later) and a hazard flasher switch on the right side of the steering wheel...

With all that in mind, I needed to unsleeve and layout the dash harness to suit my layout better than it comes stock from FFR.

This is my initial plan and mockup. I just used some spare craft paper cut to size to help me with the visualization and to see if I needed to account for the wire lengths (as delivered)initial dash harness layout.jpg

It looks like the wiring lengths will work , although I'd like to re-do the dash light wiring...

That left me to figure out how to wire up my remote connection horn switch. I'd been thinking about this for a while since I think a Steering wheel mounted horn would look good, but since the shaft & hub have minimal room for wires to pass-thru, I just figured to go wireless. I got a WOLO branded remote switch a couple years ago, and while it works well, in the back of my mind I'm worried that any "stray" signal could set my horn off...so I decided to just install an SPST toggle switch on the Dash Panel as a circuit breaker for those times I don't need a horn (like when I'm not in it ) This will just be an extra measure so that I can feel secure my Angelina doesn't get "possessed"

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Hope you had a rewarding Holiday weekend

I had some time in the Garage and I've got progress to report

In my brief time building my Roadster, I've come to realize that some parts must be located before other parts can be...wiring is often last because ...well, it is flexible and accommodating

However, some electrical parts must be layed-out because they have be mounted to something, so this post is about the space between the firewall and dash panels.

For those who have chosen to include a heater/defroster box, this post may help you visualize your own layout. I thought about my own layout a lot. Here was my working copy of the layout plan layout plan for space between firewall and dashpanel.jpg

I started on the Heater Box area because the heater coolant valve dictated somewhat where I located the switch on the Dashpanel. Here's my new bracket for the heater blower motor circuit breaker -- tucked out of the way new bracket for heater motor circuit breaker.jpg

Here's the new piano-style hinge for my underdash access panels This one is to the left of the steering column left of steering wheel under dash access hinge.jpg

Then, since I needed a place to locate my Inertia Switch (out-of-the-way, yet still accessible if it "tripped"), I made a mirror image of the Passenger side firewall "extension" panel new driver's side firewall extension panel.jpg I think I can use this to mount the extreme left-side of the dash panel (just like can be done for the Passenger side)

Next post...part 2

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, we continue with the layout between the firewall and dash panels...

Here is where I decided to put the headlight dimmer switch relay headlight dimmer relay.jpg

Then I located the Inertia Switch. Sharp observers will notice that I had to create yet another firewall "extension" panel since
the mirror-image copy did not leave enough mounting real-estate for the Inertia Switch. This whole assembly will be mounted with rivnuts so that I can get to the windshield post bolts inertia switch and front harness pass thru.jpg

Next, I added another hinge to the right of the steering column. This one will be for the remote horn module and hazard flasher relay mountings.access panel hinge to right of steering wheel.jpg

Then, I forgot about my Wiper switch relay. This was needed since I replaced the FFR-supplied toggle switch with a more period-correct rotary switch.
The relay essentially helps with the "Park" position. I tucked this onto the simple bracket I made for the heater motor circuit breaker. So here's the picture with that plus the aforementioned horn module and flasher relay wiper switch relay, flasher relay, and remote horn module.jpg

Next post, we continue with the layout...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, we continue with the layout between the firewall and dash panels...

Here is an underside view of the new hinged access panel underside view of driver's right side under dash access panel.jpg

Next is the overall layout minus any heater or defroster ducting. I hope I planned for enough room! mockup view of electrical content sans heater ducts behind dashpanel.jpg

Time to confirm the little space to the left of the steering column has enough room for the wires, switches, relays, and ducting.
First though, I need to create a prototype panel initial mockup of driver's side heater duct.jpg. All the content fits...more-or-less. My plan to have a hinged panel here might not "make the cut" since the top-side of the duct vent looks like it will interfere with the KeySwitch when I swing the panel down. We'll have to trust the "vision" and accommodate later...

Anyway, here's an underneath view of that duct panel underside view of Driver's heater duct-vent access panel.jpg

Next post we'll work the Passenger-side...until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

Looks like good progress! I like your organization. I went with the under dash panel as well. I make it out of several pieces of aluminum. I’m going with the Velcro idea others have posted using small angle aluminum as top supports and rivnuts on the under dash panels so I can use screws from the bottom of the dash up. I’m just starting my dash wiring so it’s good to see examples!

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In this post, I work on the Passenger-side items that need to be mounted between the Firewall and the Dash panels...
First up: I made a simple bracket to mount my Edelbrock Pro-Flo4 ECM New ProFlo4 ECM mounting bracket.jpg

Apologies for the bad photography, but here's the ECM in position (looking forward view) ECM mocked up onto new bracket.jpg

Next, I mounted the ECM's power relay and fuse holder in suitable locations - taking advantage of available space, proximity to the ECM, wiring lengths, etc ECM relay and fuse holder mocked up.jpg

and here's the reason to sequence my efforts on the firewall so far: Thermal Pad template creation ... since it is easier to fit properly before installation rather than fight the gooey sticky layer Thermal pad template for Passenger side firewall panel.jpg

Next post: fitting the thermal pad, reinstalling the heater box, and checking the fit of the equipment on the Passenger side between the Firewall and Dash panels...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Continuing from the last post, where I created a template for the thermal pad -- Here's the thermal pad installed Thermal pad installed onto Passenger side firewall panel.jpg

and then the Heater/Defroster Box and new ECM reinstalled Passenger side firewall with installed behind-dash equipment.jpg

Here's an overhead view of the ECM equipment located between the Firewall and Dash panels overhead view of ECM and mounting bracket behind the dash panel.jpg

and lastly, here's a view of the Dash panel mocked into place with the hinged under dash access panels temporarily clamped into place. All it takes is some final trimming, simple fastener work, and "Bob's your Uncle!" under dash hinged access panels awaiting final trimming.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Don't you love the simplicity of the ProFlo? Edelbrock has done such a great job with that system.

[Highplainsdakota]

Wow, that looks great. Since Mike Forte's building my engine right now I'm going with the Pro Flo 4 as well. Nice to know it will be an easy part! FYI I just posted in my thread about a weatherpack connector on the RF harness being pinned wrong. It's a quick check to make sure the same colored wires are lining up in the connectors! ie427 also mentioned he found one that had similar color light green wires pinned wrong. Good to find those mistakes now.

[cc2Arider]

Don't you love the simplicity of the ProFlo? Edelbrock has done such a great job with that system.

Hi Mike,
I love it so far, but I'm a little worried if the Wifi link will "penetrate" the dash panel when I need to set it up and start the tuning/monitoring. I guess I'll find out...

I recall you had a "stack" system...did that require a different ECM and harness set up?

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota!

Do you recall which wire pair was pinned wrongly on the RF harness? I haven't checked the whole harness yet

Craig C

[Mike.Bray]

Hi Mike,
I love it so far, but I'm a little worried if the Wifi link will "penetrate" the dash panel when I need to set it up and start the tuning/monitoring. I guess I'll find out...

I recall you had a "stack" system...did that require a different ECM and harness set up?

Craig C

The ProFlo should be a Bluetooth link so I'm sure you'll be fine.

For my stacks I used a Fast Sportsman ECU and a Holley dual sync distributor so I have timing control. I had to do some minor modifications to the universal harness but that was all. I have a compete Holley Terminator system that I was planning on installing so I would have sequential port injection but the Cobra has been running so well with the Sportsman now I'm thinking of installing the Terminator on my recently acquired 68 Camaro.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks for the confirmation about the Bluetooth, Mike

Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

Thanks Highplainsdakota!

Do you recall which wire pair was pinned wrongly on the RF harness? I haven't checked the whole harness yet

Craig C

It was the front turn signal wires. A flat 12 pin connector. 6 on bottom were correct and 6 on top were backwards. Still trying to figure out how to unpin them!

Check out the picture

IMG_5100.jpg

[Nigel Allen]

It was the front turn signal wires. A flat 12 pin collector. 6 on bottom were right and 6 on top were backwards. Still trying to figure out how to unpin them!

Check out the picture

IMG_5100.jpg

If you get the unpinning tool, the process is simple and painless. These connectors are a sweet design.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Highplainsdakota & Nigel

I'll check this evening...


Craig C

[Highplainsdakota]

I have a small round tube "depinning tool" but these seem to be blade types. I have a set coming from amazon to try. Do you know which brand or type of connectors these are from the RF harness? There seems to be a wide blade and narrow blade tool most commonly used, but there are also dozens others...