A 3D scanner is the #2 item on my list of things to buy (after a new ECU for my 818) once I sell my current project. Mind sharing a little bit about why you picked that specific one?
This is still a "consumer" grade scanner, although it's on the higher end. Not professional by any means ($15k +++). The $1k consumer scanners do ok for larger objects (6"+) but fall on their face scanning smaller parts/objects. Some of the brands rely on kickstarter purchases then the business model is to release a new model immediately. These don't perform very well at all. Anything under $1k seems to be junk unfortunately. You can probably get away with a $1k scanner. Shining 3D is a reputable company that makes $25k+ scanners and the cheaper scanners like the one I bought benefit from the software development of the "big boys". Software is a major contributing factor to a quality scan.
Hit me up if you want to have a conversation about 3D printing. I've been 3D printing car parts since 2009.
I've been printing for about the same amount of time. Always something new to learn, I appreciate any help I can get!
always something new to learn, I appreciate any help I can get!
I was directing my comment towards Crash, you certainly have a lot of experience with the craft. It is crazy how far it has come, I just found my first 3d printer a few weeks ago tucked away. Sanding drums for gears and shoestrings for belts.
This is still a "consumer" grade scanner, although it's on the higher end. Not professional by any means ($15k +++). The $1k consumer scanners do ok for larger objects (6"+) but fall on their face scanning smaller parts/objects. Some of the brands rely on kickstarter purchases then the business model is to release a new model immediately. These don't perform very well at all. Anything under $1k seems to be junk unfortunately. You can probably get away with a $1k scanner. Shining 3D is a reputable company that makes $25k+ scanners and the cheaper scanners like the one I bought benefit from the software development of the "big boys". Software is a major contributing factor to a quality scan.
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I had been eyeing this one. CoachBuilt on Youtube was getting really good scans of engine pieces with it:
Quick scan of the front bumper to see how it does with larger scans. It's still fairly rough with exposed body filler. Scanner didn't reliably see the edge of the fairly glossy hood, so I applied some scan spray which disappears after a few hours. Plenty of data here to mod the fascia.
FYI these are 0.5mm resolution scans.
Another large gif file in this post.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
In a prior life, we had to use a similar spray when we white light scanned parts for dimensional evaluation. These were machined F-135 engine parts for the afterburner section of the engine. Ridiculously tight tolerances and basically needed this method of inspection to prove every single point on a machined surface met the profile tolerances. Insane in that you needed basically a mini super computer to handle the amount of data it captured in about a 5 second scan.
Life has been very busy with kids sports. Working with a 3D mesh, I have had to switch CAD software. I was using designspark mechanical, which I really like. But it seems like everybody is moving to Fusion 360. Little bit of a learning curve, working with forms, surfaces, t-spines etc is completely different than what I'm used to which was basically creating drawings, then extruding, then filleting, etc.
So import the mesh into Fusion. Create a surface which matches the mesh. Create the surface shape of the part. Thicken and export as STL. Divide the part so it fits on the printer. Print and reassemble.
I'm leaning towards this style of intake vs the previous fancy design. I think this will scoop more air with less drag.
I'm going to redesign the front angle to point towards the corner of the rear hatch, like I marked in the attached photo, to better tie into the lines of the car.
Three gif's attached.
Thoughts?
I'm not qualified to talk about how this will collect air versus the lambo design, but I agree it fits much better with the curves of the car. it's not too dissimilar to what I arrived at for my 818:
I like that you filled in behind the door frame. Cleans that up nicely. Not so sure about the angled scoop. I think a bigger picture view would maybe give a better idea of how it fits and flows with the rest of the body.
Roof scoops are along these same lines. What fits and works is one thing, and what actually looks good is another. I have seen plenty of functional roof scoops on prototype cars that I am sure work perfectly well, but IMHO, ruin the side view of the car's lines.
Mike-
I angled the scoop because every airflow/CFD analysis I've seen on a moving car shows air crashing down off the roof to the side of the car. I think that an angled scoop will more efficiently capture that air. Perhaps I should parallel the b-pillar angle for better aesthetics? What do you think? 20250224_124316.jpg
Obviously if you run with your roof off it won't matter much, but I think you should at least mock it up with the same angle as the B pillar. I would just put some cardboard in there and paint it black and see how it looks from different angles while you move around. I believe in prioritizing function, but form is also super important in cars like ours.
I made a similar pair of scoops for my 818 but after I put them into place, I didn’t like the look. Mine parallel the B-pillar and bow outward to form a scoop. Mine are acrylic and allow a view of the candy store.
Kit #361, arrived 10/2015, still in progress
818C highly modified, corvette suspension
Estimated completion summer 2023!
1989 turbo Supra 5 sp
2017 Tundra
I've come to realize that there is a HUGE learning curve with surface modeling, much more so than general/mechanical CAD. It's very difficult to create precise surfaces in 3 dimensions that end up looking the way you want them to look and ending up exactly where you want them to be in space.
The initial plan was to incorporate my existing bumper (aftermarket MR2 Spyder) and modify the bumper to fit my needs, ie the radiator intakes and tying into the rest of the bodywork. After quite a bit of modeling and some thought, I decided to scrap all of the work I had done and start again from scratch. Looking around for OEM front bumpers that had dual radiator setups, I chose the Lamborghini Gallardo as the starting point. It was easy to find a 3D model. Unfortunately, it is not as simple as importing an STL file and modifying it, you cannot directly model an STL file in Autodesk fusion. So quite a bit of Hands-On modeling to create a t spline model which can be modified to fit the hood, headlight, fender flare, radiator, etc. I changed quite a bit of the shape of the fascia, leaving me with a pseudo-Gallardo front end, but it was a great shape to start with. At this point it just needs a couple areas of small touch ups followed by 3D printing.
I'll probably print a miniature to see it in the flesh. For the full-size, will have to break the model down into pieces that fit on the printer and then reassemble them. Options beyond that would be skinning with fiberglass or carbon fiber versus creating a mold and a new fiberglass bumper like I did previously with the hood and spoiler.
Three GIF files attached, fairly large, may take a minute to load.
For my 818 I used a program called gravity sketch on the oculus. That allowed me to trace components of the car in 3D dimension, then literally use my hands to push and pull the panels to get the exact look I wanted. With the 3D scanner you could skip the tracing part (which was very clumsy) and just go straight into creating your shapes in 3D with your hands.
High speed prints at low layer resolution to see it in the flesh. Fits basically perfectly. Air forced into the radiators (will have full ducting). Going to make a couple of small changes.
Suggestions?
Very interesting. Is your radiator going to be scoot to the side as well? I believe that's what these vents are for on the Gallardo. It also has one fan on each side behind these vents.
Last edited by ohmygosuness; 04-23-2025 at 08:27 AM.
High speed prints at low layer resolution to see it in the flesh. Fits basically perfectly. Air forced into the radiators (will have full ducting). Going to make a couple of small changes.
Suggestions?
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
It looks like you considered a higher profile headlight lens by looking at the finger drawing in the dust? I think the higher lens would be my choice.
No plan to change the headlights at the moment. I want minimalist and lightweight, single projector on each side are plenty bright. The finger drawings are courtesy of my 9 year old
I think this is about version 6.0. Switched to Blender for the 3D design, it seems to do much better with organic shapes (vs Fusion, still will use Fusion for more mechanical parts). I really like it, printing passenger side now, then will finalize in fiberglass.
I find gravity sketch on an Oculus perfect for organic designs. You can literally push and pull curves, edges, and planes with your hands and can look at them in 3 dimensions just by tilting your head.
I find gravity sketch on an Oculus perfect for organic designs. You can literally push and pull curves, edges, and planes with your hands and can look at them in 3 dimensions just by tilting your head.
Have you tried modeling and printing a part with gravity sketch? Would be cool to see in 3D. In Blender, you can 'paint' and give different finishes , ie matte to gloss, and see it rendered in 3D but it's still on a flat monitor screen.
Have you tried modeling and printing a part with gravity sketch? Would be cool to see in 3D. In Blender, you can 'paint' and give different finishes , ie matte to gloss, and see it rendered in 3D but it's still on a flat monitor screen.
You can texture and paint in Gravity Sketch. It's been about 3 years since I used it, so probably been some improvements, but at the time I could only export a mesh, which I then imported into Fusion and converted to a solid so I could cut it up (slicers only offered planar cuts back then) and 3D print it.
Just need to modify a couple of edges/gaps then some filler and make a mould. May sandwich the plastic in fiberglass instead. This plastic weighs about 6 lbs, 15% infill.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
My thought is that the sandwiching will not work very well. The plastic likely will not bond well to the resin in the FG, and the 1/4" or so of extra "dimension" will not match the other panels.
My vote is for doing the extra work of making a mould and coming out with a proper finished product.
With this door design, with the power window structure as it is in the door, I don't have a great place to put a robust pull handle to slam the door (it would be an awkward angle, in line with the seatback) . Instead of stressing the door components with a pull handle in an ergonomic location, I installed BMW soft close latches. Pretty simple + and - installation, no external control module. Haven't adjusted anything yet but I really like this!
I am not sure, I've never used a solenoid popper. These function like a normal latch, with the soft close as kind of an add-on accessory. Meaning you can still slam the door and bypass the solenoid. The latch will still work if the solenoid fails. The release to open the door is identical to any typical door latch. The soft close motor does nothing functional when you release the latch to open the door, although you hear a brief motor 'reset' after the door opens.
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Originally Posted by crash
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