Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

[PNWTim]

I think my spacers were in one of the hardware packs, box 1?

Thanks Jim. I have searched Box 1 and no luck. It's also not listed on the inventory anywhere I can find. I am going to call FF in the morning and ask them where they are typically packed and see what they say.

[PNWTim]

So, I spoke with Dan this morning re: my missing spacers. He told me they are shipped in Box 26 with the lower control arms. I have the zerks, cotter pins, castle nuts and ball joint snap ring but no spacers. Bit of a mystery. Thankfully, he was kind enough to ship a pair out to me so I can button up the front end. He did indicate not to use any old spacer as these are cut from thick wall tubing then drilled with the appropriate taper for the ball joint shaft.

[PNWTim]

I have made a little progress over the last couple of weeks. Lots of research, shopping and fiddling around. I have some good things to report, some odd things to report and a not so great setback.

First the good. A few gratuitous pictures of the completed front and rear suspension:

DS Front.JPG

DS Rear Suspension.JPG

Did some electronics testing. Went through the driving lights, brake and clutch switches and the fan:

Running Light Test.JPG

Unfortunately, when I tested the fan I had inconclusive results. I got a lot of hum and about 1 RPM so not sure what to think. I am working under the assumption my 12 volt power supply should be adequate to test it. Any ideas?

Fan Testing.jpg

I also test mounted the steering linkage. Everything fit well and I was able to put the bearing on the outside of the footwell. There is not a lot of space between the couplers but I am not sure that matters. I can remove the lower shaft if needed as it stands which I am thinking is a good thing.

Steering Bearing.jpg

I also received my Metri-Pack depinning tool today so I fixed my RF harness. I will be sure to check all connections as I go. I'm a little surprised at the QA/QC here but seems to be an ongoing and random issue.

RF Harness Fail.JPG

Wiring Fixed.JPG

And then last but by no means least, I confirmed my seats are not going to fit. I was hoping since they were take-outs from an older C6 Corvette they were the previous version that Paul B. installed. Unfortunately, they are not. I know Scott (Namrups) managed to use these but I am not sure how. They conflict in more places than I care to indicate. Even tilted and shoved as far to the rear as possible it's a non-starter for me. I'm really bummed as they are quite comfortable but going to go another direction. Intratrim is the lead candidate at this juncture. Since they provide only upholstered seats I need to have a consultation with Robin to see if he can accommodate my design and materials.

[JimStone]

Sorry to hear about your seats not fitting. The Intratrim's sure do look nice though.

I'm not necessarily advocating for it, but I did just go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan. Saw too many people on here have the stock fan give out. Then I put power to the kit fan and it really did sound like a jet turbine spinning up.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to go check my wiring harness for mismatched pins


Edit:
I saw your post the the stock fan is a Maradyne unit. Looked those up and they're not exactly "cheap". Who knows if the Flex-a-Lite will really be more reliable...

[edwardb]

Zooming in on your power supply, it's only rated at 5-7 amps. That's not a lot and very well might not be enough to start your fan. I have a similar one (same brand) but higher amperage. Mine typically buzzes and indicates over current. But maybe yours doesn't. A quick check of your fan on another source, like a car battery, could tell you if the fan is good or not. Agree the stock fans are on the noisy side and there are others that are quieter with sometimes more capacity. But I've used the kit supplied fans on all my builds with no issues. The fan is barely heard, if at all, when the car is running and driving. These cars are a bit noisy if you haven't heard that already.

[PNWTim]

Zooming in on your power supply, it's only rated at 5-7 amps. That's not a lot and very well might not be enough to start your fan. I have a similar one (same brand) but higher amperage. Mine typically buzzes and indicates over current. But maybe yours doesn't. A quick check of your fan on another source, like a car battery, could tell you if the fan is good or not. Agree the stock fans are on the noisy side and there are others that are quieter with sometimes more capacity. But I've used the kit supplied fans on all my builds with no issues. The fan is barely heard, if at all, when the car is running and driving. These cars are a bit noisy if you haven't heard that already.

Great call out Paul. It did cross my mind that without a relay there might not be enough oomph coming out of that unit as that's what it sounded like. At this time I am not inclined to change out the fan, just need to confirm it works. I am not sure about this but I also have a Power Probe which may suffice to test it. I'll probably research that a bit and see.

I had asked a standalone question on the forum before I ordered my kit re: PWM fan control with the Coyote. Sounds like it's fairly rare in this group but I intend to install one. Between the soft start, lower noise and variable speed it should eliminate fan noise concerns. But, like you said, fan noise is just a little more background music with these cars.

[Namrups]

I had to jury rig both the seat slider and the roadster seat base from Breeze to get the seats to fit. They do not go all the way back to the rear wall but I am only 5'-8" so it works for me. I do have about 3" - 4" of travel and they do rub the roll bar.

[PNWTim]

Sorry to hear about your seats not fitting. The Intratrim's sure do look nice though.

I'm not necessarily advocating for it, but I did just go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan. Saw too many people on here have the stock fan give out. Then I put power to the kit fan and it really did sound like a jet turbine spinning up.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to go check my wiring harness for mismatched pins


Edit:
I saw your post the the stock fan is a Maradyne unit. Looked those up and they're not exactly "cheap". Who knows if the Flex-a-Lite will really be more reliable...

I was actually pretty surprised to find the error in my harness but glad I looked. I didn't check any of the other connections but planning to do so before it leaves the bench.

Like I replied to Paul, if I can confirm the fan is operable (which I am thinking it is) I plan on using it. Interestingly enough your question about the fan prompted me to do a little research and it looks like Maradyne is a North American subsidiary of DCM - Taz.

https://maradynehp.com/about-us/

I also am going to use a PWM controller to manage the jet engine throttle on the fan to make it a little more manageable. It's an easy add and I have really appreciated it in my other build.

[PNWTim]

I had to jury rig both the seat slider and the roadster seat base from Breeze to get the seats to fit. They do not go all the way back to the rear wall but I am only 5'-8" so it works for me. I do have about 3" - 4" of travel and they do rub the roll bar.

Thanks Scott. I knew you had gotten them to work and I'm glad they do. I would be really curious at the dimensional changes between ours and Paul's setup. Seems like they simply widened them a bit top and bottom and maybe slightly changed the recline angle.

[Namrups]

My seats are about 1" wider than Pauls and the slider is 3/4" higher than Pauls. Not a big difference but enough to cause issues.

[Infinitybox]

Good luck, nice build Tim. If I can be of any help or answer questions about our system let me know as it would be a great addition to your car.

www.infinitybox.com

Anthony

[lewma]

go ahead and get Flex-a-Lite 105390 radiator fan.

Definitely worth it.

[edwardb]

Great call out Paul. It did cross my mind that without a relay there might not be enough oomph coming out of that unit as that's what it sounded like. At this time I am not inclined to change out the fan, just need to confirm it works. I am not sure about this but I also have a Power Probe which may suffice to test it. I'll probably research that a bit and see.

I had asked a standalone question on the forum before I ordered my kit re: PWM fan control with the Coyote. Sounds like it's fairly rare in this group but I intend to install one. Between the soft start, lower noise and variable speed it should eliminate fan noise concerns. But, like you said, fan noise is just a little more background music with these cars.

A relay in the circuit wouldn't change anything on the fan test from that power supply. Neither would a Power Probe unless you attached it to a higher current device. I use a Power Probe too and like it it. I clip it to a car battery when I'm using it. That's still the power source I'd suggest to confirm your fan's operation. I put a PWM fan controller on my 20th Anniversary Roadster with the Gen 2 Coyote mainly because Ford Performance had the PCM calibrated to where the fan never shut off once the engine reached even normal operating temp. The controller fixed that. The Gen 3 in my Coupe works the way it should so nothing additional there. Plus it has A/C which adds a bit of complexity to the fan circuit because of the trinary switch.

[PNWTim]

I have made some progress over the last few days. I have been testing, trimming, drilling and mounting panels. I found most of them fit fairly well but if you are concerned about the edges being parallel with the frame bars, etc. it takes a bit of fitting to get just right.

IMG_4055.jpg

IMG_4056.jpg

Going to remove all the panels for prep to go to the powder coater and also free up some Clecos so I can do the radiator surround and fan/fan shroud. Once those are complete I will send the lot. I haven't quite figured out if there are other panels I should be including but these should encompass all the engine bay panels. I am going with a different color than the remainder of my panels so I'm trying to make sure I include them all in my first batch. I know there are some wings or outriggers that may be visible with the hood up so I will need to double check on those.

[PNWTim]

I also started on the fuel tank assembly and was a little confused by the fact both locking rings for the fuel pump hanger and sending unit came with a round style o-ring and a flat style (rectangular in cross section) ring. I am inclined to use the round ones but wonder why it comes with both? The picture below shows the round sectioned one in the groove and the square sectioned one next to it.

IMG_4046.jpg

[burchfieldb]

The manual says to use the orings for both. Not sure why it comes with both.

[PNWTim]

Thanks Brent. I saw that as well but it's a little odd they include the others. I would classify them more as a gasket than an O-ring.

[burchfieldb]

My guess is that the pump hanger and sender are generics. When I look up the OEM ones, they have orings.

[PNWTim]

We have been on vacation for a bit but managed to make some headway on the fuel system. I put the tank together, widened the holes on the straps since the 3/8" bolts wouldn't go through and prepped everything for the tank install. I opted for a fuel pump and hanger from Quantum Fuel Systems. I was leaning this direction after a conversation with Blitzboy54 (Jesse) and then had an issue with Pro M which somewhat sealed the deal. It really seems like a quality part and pretty happy with the price. Everything you see in the picture came with the unit. Tested it, received a satisfying hum and popped it in.

Fuel Pump Hanger.jpg

I also went to my local dealer and picked up this little gem based on recommendations from, well, everyone:

Filler Neck Gasket.JPG

I also picked up the Breeze oversize vent setup and popped it in as well. Tested the fuel level sender and all is good to go. Just waiting to be lifted into position:

Fuel Tank Complete.JPG

I do have a question though. I did not see anything in the manual about adding any kind of rub strip/anti-squeak around the perimeter of the tank lip. Perhaps I missed it or this isn't a concern? Any feedback would be appreciated.

[edwardb]

I do have a question though. I did not see anything in the manual about adding any kind of rub strip/anti-squeak around the perimeter of the tank lip. Perhaps I missed it or this isn't a concern? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Mine only contacted the frame along the back edge. I did put an EPDM foam strip that edge. https://www.mcmaster.com/1566N211/. I have no idea whether it's really needed, but made me feel better. You're the only other builder that I've seen who also mentioned it.

[burchfieldb]

I put foam gasket material around mine as well where it touched off on the frame. I wanted to avoid having the tank wear the paint off the frame from vibration.

[8secDuster]

I did as well. Applied the adhesive side to the frame. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLXMHPKR...sin_title&th=1

[PNWTim]

OK, thanks guys. I am just not a big fan of metal on metal situations like this. Needed or not, I don't think it will hurt and it's cheap insurance.

[burchfieldb]

Looks like the frame rail or the mounts are off.

[PNWTim]

I have spent the last couple of weeks mounting all the engine bay aluminum and getting it to fit they way I want. I am planning on powder coating all of my engine bay panels white and the demarcation line between the black frames and the panels needs to be as good as I can get them. Trying to ensure the lines are parallel and just at the edge of the radius. This has required I trim several of the panels. Working off a tip I received from Brent B. AKA @burchfieldb I trimmed most of the panels with my track saw fitted with an aluminum cutting blade. This picture shows me trimming about an 1/8" off the top of the radiator panel:

Radiator Panel.JPG

I also have filled the random tek screw holes with this material. My powder coater says it will survive the heat and the powder should stick to it so we'll see. I have only needed to fill 6 or 7 holes that were out of sync or position:

High Heat JB.jpg

[JimStone]

I'll be interested to see how the extreme heat JB weld works with powder coating. I assume it would have to be put on after sand blast prep? Otherwise, won't it get eroded away?

Although some coaters don't blast, they use chemicals to etch the material.

[PNWTim]

I am planning on using it before blasting. It shouldn't erode as it's almost like metal when dry. The powder should fill in any imperfections, but I am doing a test panel before pulling the trigger on them. They turn the air pressure down when doing sheet goods so they don't warp them, so that may help. We'll see.

[burchfieldb]

I am also curious to see how this turns out. I was planning on brazing aluminum into the holes, but this could be easier.

[PNWTim]

I am also curious to see how this turns out. I was planning on brazing aluminum into the holes, but this could be easier.

.

I considered that as well but it's not really one of my skill sets so I'm attempting an easier path. I had never heard of the stuff until a week ago. I should know in about 10 days if it's going to work.

[460.465USMC]

I have spent the last couple of weeks mounting all the engine bay aluminum and getting it to fit they way I want. I am planning on powder coating all of my engine bay panels white and the demarcation line between the black frames and the panels needs to be as good as I can get them. Trying to ensure the lines are parallel and just at the edge of the radius. This has required I trim several of the panels. Working off a tip I received from Brent B. AKA @burchfieldb I trimmed most of the panels with my track saw fitted with an aluminum cutting blade.

Thanks for the tip on the high temp JB Weld. Will be watching to see how it friendly it is to the powder coating process.

Nice solution for the long cuts on your aluminum panels. I've tried a number of things with the tools I have (jig saw, angle grinder), but they're more cave man than what you've got there, requiring not a little file work after the cut. Hmmmm....what excuse can I find to buy a track saw?

[PNWTim]

Thanks for the tip on the high temp JB Weld. Will be watching to see how it friendly it is to the powder coating process.

Nice solution for the long cuts on your aluminum panels. I've tried a number of things with the tools I have (jig saw, angle grinder), but they're more cave man than what you've got there, requiring not a little file work after the cut. Hmmmm....what excuse can I find to buy a track saw?

For what it's worth, I bought the saw when I was building our outdoor kitchen. I have a pretty complete, higher end woodshop and never really saw the need for a track saw. I knew I was going to need to make some precision cuts for some soffit material so justified buying one at the recommendation of a friend. It is now one of my favorite tools. I also suck at using a worm drive and didn't want to carry sheet goods to my tablesaw all the time. Brent B. was the one that told me about using it for the aluminum. $20 blade change out and off to the races.

I am dropping off two test panels tomorrow so we'll see how it holds up. It sure finished out nicely and is hard as a rock. I tried to force a couple out of the hole with my finger nail and it didn't budge so we'll see. I am assuming they will blast the panels at a relatively low angle to prevent warping so that portion of the process shouldn't be a problem. I was also pleasantly surprised to find out Prismatic has already developed Wimbledon White as a color so I don't have to worry about color matching unless it is too creamy.

[burchfieldb]

I also bought my track saw for wood working projects around the house, it is one of my favorite tools, and the dust collection with wood is really good. I would not hesitate to do it again. Plus you can get more sections of track to adjust for longer length materials.

[PNWTim]

Can anyone see any reason not to mount these like this? I will probably through bolt them and raise the 1st and 3rd to be even with the center after the cover is on. At this stage I am just trial fitting and testing so no harm no foul if there is an obvious reason not to do this.

Master Cylinders.jpg

[Kbl7td]

Other than it being a pain to drill the holes. I did mine like that. But only 2, combined clutch and rears, front brakes on it’s on reservoir.

[PNWTim]

Other than it being a pain to drill the holes. I did mine like that. But only 2, combined clutch and rears, front brakes on it’s on reservoir.

Yeah, if I decide to go this way I will probably clamp them to the outside to mark those holes and then pray a little bit when I punch through the other side.

[burchfieldb]

I did mine that way. Drilled all the way through from the outside, welded the outside closed, ground smooth, then put rivnuts in the inside holes. If you want to use the same trim ring that I have I can give you the center spacing.

[PNWTim]

I did mine that way. Drilled all the way through from the outside, welded the outside closed, ground smooth, then put rivnuts in the inside holes. If you want to use the same trim ring that I have I can give you the center spacing.

Brent - that would be great. I was planning on using the ring whenever it's in production. This was more of a fiddling around to see what fits. On a side note, I really want my reservoirs to be inline/parallel with the top of the aluminum cover. I believe there should be no problem with these at a slight angle is there?

[burchfieldb]

You should be good as long as you keep the fluid level higher than the inlet of the master cylinder

[burchfieldb]

I was thinking about making a plate for the kit that mounts under the frame, that the FFR brakets mount to, to avoid trying to mount to the inside of the frame.

[PNWTim]

I was thinking about making a plate for the kit that mounts under the frame, that the FFR brackets mount to, to avoid trying to mount to the inside of the frame.

I know you had mentioned that and it would be a better solution than what I am currently envisioning.