John in KC - Roadster Build Thread

[JMD]

5/31-6/2 Build School Weekend

Had a great time at the build school with my dad and son Jasper. The instructors Scott and Todd did an amazing job and each have over 15 years of experience with these cars. They weren't selling or pushing anything but just talked through different options available and pointed out ways that the kit could be improved upon or areas that might need further attention. They weren't shy about telling you when a supplied part or factory instruction was lacking. I learned a ton and met some really great people. I took a lot of notes and will list a few things I learned that may be helpful to anyone else reading this or contemplating a build who will not attend the build school. Most everyone there who was on the fence about whether or not to start this project decided they could do it and plan to in the near future. It's a lot, but not really rocket science. If you have a good working knowledge of each system and how it's supposed to work, some reasonable mechanical inclination and can pay attention to details you can figure this out...but it's not for everyone.

A few tips:
-Use correct rivets for application. Short rivets are used to join two panels or a panel to thin wall frame (such as 3/4" tubing). Use longer rivets for anything else. [Edited to specify frame tubing thickness thanks to Greg's comment.]
-Extend the grooves in suspension bearing around and up the flat faces so that grease can lubricate the flat surfaces.
-Plumb each front and rear brake reservoir to the respective MC separately, don't use a y fitting from one reservoir. Because safety.
-Do one or all of the following: reinforce the gas pedal mounting bracket so it doesn't get pushed forward (it's not very strong), cut the top hole off the FF supplied gas pedal, or use a different gas pedal that mounts to the frame (I'm getting mine from Breeze). There is a chance that if you mash the gas too hard it could bend the mounting point and wedge the pedal in at full throttle position. Any of these solutions prevent that possibility.
-Check your inertia switch and reset prior to initial startup. Chance is good it got tripped on install and nothing will work until it's reset.
-Cut passenger side windshield support if longer than 9.5" as otherwise it could bottom out before setting down flush.
-Use black paint under carpet seams before setting the pieces in place to prevent visible gaps. Also, there are no scrap carpet pieces. Each piece is cut to fit a particular spot and there is no extra carpet. The pieces in the kit are almost perfectly cut for their respective panel, so almost no trimming is needed except around the doors.

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