So I had another post about doing the Kleiner Mod with the drop trunk. I just realized I am doing over riders and not quick jacks. From what I can see, there is no way to apply that mod with what I have. Looks like I have to drop the gas tank to insert the bolts from the back. I am open to other possibilities. Is it possible to insert the bolts now and still have the body fit over the bolts when I install the body later?
Do my coupler mod. Drill the overrider holes to 15/32”, install the all thread, spacers, etc. just as you would for quick jacks then slide the overriders on. It takes some nimble fingers—-and usually no small amount of swearing—-but you can then install nuts from the hollow side of the overriders. Done it dozens of times
I bought a 36 inch all thread rod and cut it evenly at 9 inches each. I made sure the top two couplers pass through the aluminum and is in direct contact with the frame. I used a little lock tight on the threads. Once the body and over riders are on the car I will trim the rods back a bit more.
I bought a 36 inch all thread rod and cut it evenly at 9 inches each. I made sure the top two couplers pass through the aluminum and is in direct contact with the frame. I used a little lock tight on the threads. Once the body and over riders are on the car I will trim the rods back a bit more.
I certainly hope you mean you used lock tight on the threads of the that fasten the couplers to the chassis and not the all thread---because it has to be removed to install the body.
Do my coupler mod. Drill the overrider holes to 15/32”, install the all thread, spacers, etc. just as you would for quick jacks then slide the overriders on. It takes some nimble fingers—-and usually no small amount of swearing—-but you can then install nuts from the hollow side of the overriders. Done it dozens of times
Jeff
Hey Jeff! Do you a link to your Coupler Mod? I searched this and the old thread and couldn't find it.
Thanks! Mark
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
I have a OneNote notebook with links to just about everything This forum is awesome. Maybe one day I'll convert my notes into a searchable Google Doc with a table of contents and share the link with everyone.....has tons of details/tips/tricks I've learned over the years from the folks on the forum.
Last edited by dbo_texas; 04-11-2024 at 09:29 AM.
Darryl [dbo_texas]
MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents
Thanks Jeff! We've got a new builder and an old member working on his second Roadster, both interested in this mod. They looked at mine and really liked it, but I couldn't find your original post.
F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!
Resurrecting this for a quick sanity check - IF the car is already complete, there's basically no option but to drop the gas tank to get the rear bumpers installed, correct? I've basically determined that even if I do manage to get the angles required to turn the PS top rear bumper bolt, there's no way I can remove that bolt, correct?
Resurrecting this for a quick sanity check - IF the car is already complete, there's basically no option but to drop the gas tank to get the rear bumpers installed, correct? I've basically determined that even if I do manage to get the angles required to turn the PS top rear bumper bolt, there's no way I can remove that bolt, correct?
I've had to do it a few times when cars are sent to me with the bolts installed from the tank side. For the upper one you have to use a "death wheel" (that''s an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and no guard) and cut it as close to the head as posssible. The bolt head and remaining short section of bolt will fall off on the tank side. Do the same for the lower one. Going back in with the mod hardware is easy on the driver's side; on the passenger side access for the lower one is from below and takes a short bolt and no small amount of finger dexterity! The upper one on the passenger side is easy to get to if you remove the fuel pump access cover from the trunk floor.
I did my "Kleiner mod" when my car was in go-kart stage. I managed to drop the tank without FULLY dropping the tank, one because it had a significant amount of fuel in it, and two because I didn't feel like disconnecting the lines. I took some light chain and S-hooks and slung them under the tank, then loosened up the straps and let the tank hang by the chains while I was swapping out the hardware. With the S-hooks, you can sort of walk the tank down by going to the next link on each side until you have clearance.
I've had to do it a few times when cars are sent to me with the bolts installed from the tank side. For the upper one you have to use a "death wheel" (that''s an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and no guard) and cut it as close to the head as posssible. The bolt head and remaining short section of bolt will fall off on the tank side. Do the same for the lower one. Going back in with the mod hardware is easy on the driver's side; on the passenger side access for the lower one is from below and takes a short bolt and no small amount of finger dexterity! The upper one on the passenger side is easy to get to if you remove the fuel pump access cover from the trunk floor.
Good luck!
Jeff
"Death wheel" just made my paint faint! I figured it would be something pretty drastic like cutting off the bolt.
I did my "Kleiner mod" when my car was in go-kart stage. I managed to drop the tank without FULLY dropping the tank, one because it had a significant amount of fuel in it, and two because I didn't feel like disconnecting the lines. I took some light chain and S-hooks and slung them under the tank, then loosened up the straps and let the tank hang by the chains while I was swapping out the hardware. With the S-hooks, you can sort of walk the tank down by going to the next link on each side until you have clearance.
HTH
-Kyle
Yeah was thinking of doing a "half drop" - looks like it's just the filler hose that needs to be disconnected. Everything else has enough give to drop the 1" or so that's needed. I'll come back to this after my tank is almost empty
Here is my version of the Kleiner mod done without dropping the tank.
Parts:
- 2" length of 7/16 threaded rod
- Coupler
- 2 washers
- Nyloc nut
Thread the rod into the coupler leaving enough length sticking out to place a washer on, put the rod through the chassis, add another washer, and thread on the nut.
You can put another length of rod in the open end of the coupler to keep the short piece from threading in further as you put the nut on.
Jeff Kleiner, are there any differences or changes to your mod for the MK5 you have noticed ?
I think my fuel tank stops are being delivered today so I guess I should do this mod before I get my tank installed.
I'm just going with the quick jacks.
Jeff Kleiner, are there any differences or changes to your mod for the MK5 you have noticed ?
I think my fuel tank stops are being delivered today so I guess I should do this mod before I get my tank installed.
I'm just going with the quick jacks.
After I pleaded with them for years they finally included a modified version of my mod...a "mod mod"...which IMO is poorly executed. They are using captive nuts/clip on nuts at the rear to accept the threads of the QJ bolts. Problem is that the ones that they used, at least on the Beta cars, are $hit and galled easily locking threads between the nuts and bolts so tight that the captive nut broke free when tightened. That is exactly the word that I used when I told Jim, Jesper and Nate. Ron and Erik concurred. Jim said that they were going to look into a different supplier for these as well as the ones used for the door hinges (which is a different story and problem) so maybe they have a better supplier now. In lieu of using those you can simply use my original coupler nut method. Became a moot point on my Mk5 because I ultimately eliminated bumpers/quick jacks front and rear and made hidden mounts.
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Originally Posted by Legendary
This forum is awesome. Maybe one day I'll convert my notes into a searchable Google Doc with a table of contents and share the link with everyone.....has tons of details/tips/tricks I've learned over the years from the folks on the forum.
