David's retirement Project! Building a Roadster.

[David_L]

For what it's worth, I have a 306 with a fox oil pan, the drain plug and bottom of the rear sump are lower than the frame. I also have a Quicktime SFI bellhousing that hangs down below the frame. I haven't had an issue yet. I do live in VA, so we don't have some of the truely winter destroyed roads like more northern states.

With that said, I am considering getting a low profile oil pan and cutting off the bellhousing flange where it protrudes this winter...

Wow! Yet another item to worry about! LOL Never even thought about my bellhousing!

[Chopper]

Most bellhousings don't hang down that low, but if you have an SFI bellhousing there is a good chance it will. It is surely easier to cut out of the car though...

[David_L]

After much input from the guys in the general forum, I ordered a Kevko Corba pan at 7.5 inches before I saw that the Champ pan is 7 inches! They had already sent me a UPS tracking number. lol Quick service. But I was able to call them and have it canceled.

Just ordered the Champ pan, pickup and dipstick and he said it will ship out today or tomorrow. At 7 inches there shouldn't be any more worries about the oil pan hanging out! Just wish I had paid a bit more when I ordered the engine and had the correct one installed then.

Also today I called Mike Forte and asked about the engine mounts supplied by FF. He said to send the mounts to him and he will modify for the Boss block. I dropped them in the mail.

Also shipped my steering wheel boss to Russ Thompson for the turn signal mode. Before I sent it off I tried to put in on the shaft. Wow was just trying to get it on over the first quarter inch and it was peeling aluminum back so I gave up. Anyone else had issue just getting it started?

I also started mounting my Breeze front battery box. And of course realized I'm going to have to do some shifting to my front brake line.

[David_L]

Been slack on posting updates so here's a few.

Breeze battery box mounted with battery and Neg cable installed.

[David_L]

Main wiring harnes installed.

I beleve this is the wire I cut to wire into my Sniper Blue wire. I wire to the lead going to the relay. I'm assuming I can use the wire going to the fuel pump fuse as an additional fused power source.

[David_L]

Finished installing trunk panels and drop trunk.

Also installed the Ebreak. Since I didn't order the rear brakes from FF I also didn't receive an ebrake cable so I found one on Amazon. "WHYQL Emergency Parking Brake Cable Kit Adjustable Compatible with Lokar Floor Mount Units/Disc or Drum Brakes" It worked perfectly. I saw lots of discussions about routing the cables but went with the standard under tube routing. Mounted the cable end cradle on the seatbelt flange and used the hardware that came with the brake cable. Just needed to shorten the cable and mount using the Lokar Floor Mount that clamps the cable ends.

[David_L]

Engine Install! The install went somewhat smothly. I first installed the transmission mount to the transmission. I also pulled out the shipping donut from end of transmission. Used a pair of channellock pliers for a good grip and worked it out from side to side. I heard you can keep it in but makes it hard to install the drive shaft.

Once I raised the engine up I removed the shipping brackets and installed the "modified by Mike Forte" motor mounts.

Everything went well till I had the engine over the mounts and realized the PS reservoir was getting blocked by the steering linkage! So I had to remove the pump and reservoir before I could seat the engine. My wife was my helper!

Once seated and bolted in I mounted the transmision under carriage mount. But discovered that to line up the holes to the transmission mount there was interference with a tab on the transmission to the Ebrake mount.. I had done researh and read there should be now problem with the TKX. Not true in my case, but I was able to use a hack saw from the transmission tunnel to cut off the amount needed to get to line up the holes.

So engine is now installed!

[460.465USMC]

Congrats, David. Seems like there's plenty of surprises on these builds. I've encountered my fair share. Glad you had a successful drivetrain install. Big milestone.

[John Ibele]

I’m pretty sure that last-minute use of the hacksaw for this purpose is a rite of passage with these builds. For that and all the other progress: congratulations!

[David_L]

I’m pretty sure that last-minute use of the hacksaw for this purpose is a rite of passage with these builds. For that and all the other progress: congratulations!

Here's the tab I removed to clear the Ebrake.

[David_L]

I installed the driveline and used the TREMEC app to adjust the angles. I found I needed spacers to set the angle correctly and ordered them from Mike Forte. It seems the mount for the TKX must be different then the TKO as I had to drill holes closer the to middle of the plates for them to fit.

I put jackstands under the rearend so weight was on the suspension and used 2 spacers (1/2 inch) to get with in specifications. I'm not sure that even with weight on, if the suspension even moved?

[David_L]

I finally got the dash covered. I couldn't use the FFR cover as it had a crease that I could't remove. And I used all the tricks.. Laying out in the sun and a steamer. No luck.

When the JOANNS and got 2 yards of marine vinyl. Added a 1 mil foam then the cover usine DAP Products Weldwood Landau Top & Trim. My wife embroidered a Corba logo where the glove box would be. I can't have one since I will be installing AC.

Installed all the gages as well.

[David_L]

I used extra marine vinyl and sent it to Herb and he made me some gorgeous door panels with the large pocket.

[David_L]

I installed all my sensors and completed wiring of the engine sensors and Sniper EFI connections.

I also installed a new coolent fitting that allows heater hose and coolent temp sensor mounting for the gage. There is another coolent temp sensor for the EFI.

Capped off the vacuum advance on the distributor.

7 pin connector
1. Ran main power (red) and (black) wires directly to the battery
2. Connected the pink 12 volt wire to the Orange EFI or Coil wire. I beleve I could have also used the Elec Choke wire as well
3. Connected the Blue fuel pump wire to the Tan jumper wire on the fuse box leading the to relay after cutting the jumper. I know there are a couple ways to do the which mean relocating the Inerta switch but I wanted to keep it simple and use the RF harness as much as posable.
4. Connect the yellow wire to the coil (-) post

Not using the sprial pigtail



10 pin connector
1. Connect the fan control (light blue) wire to the top of
2. I will also need the Orange (Connect to a ground triggered A/C relay) I'm assuming I will connect to the Hayden 3647 relay but not sure where at this point as all the connections are listed a + and I need a ground. Installing and wiring the AC will be later.

Haven't install the EFI monitor or the O2 sensor (Installing headers is soon).



EFI wiring

[David_L]

I made the last fuel connections to the Sniper.

[David_L]

So last night I started looking at wiring the dash and the first item I looked at was the speedometer then I got stuck.. lol

I'm using the autometer ultra lite gages with tremec tkx. I pluged in the 2 wire speedo plug in the transmission which I be to be Sine wave2 wire sender (VSS). I think the Dark Green connects to the Signal tab on the Speedo and the Gray Signal return just gets grounded in the RF dash harness?

Also it appears that I should have received a wiring harness with the autometer ultra lite gages? I'm wondering if that was left out as the gages were backorder?

[F500guy]

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/f...tail.cfm?id=38

Gauge Drawing.jpg

[David_L]

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/f...tail.cfm?id=38

Gauge Drawing.jpg

Thanks F500guy! I feel stupid as I just realized the bracket was covering the labels for the bottom row of tabs! Makes a big difference to see the labels!

[F500guy]

I know I will be that guy soon, got to try and help when i can!

[Railroad]

I installed the driveline and used the TREMEC app to adjust the angles. I found I needed spacers to set the angle correctly and ordered them from Mike Forte. It seems the mount for the TKX must be different then the TKO as I had to drill holes closer the to middle of the plates for them to fit.

I put jackstands under the rearend so weight was on the suspension and used 2 spacers (1/2 inch) to get with in specifications. I'm not sure that even with weight on, if the suspension even moved?

Push the u joint snap ring into the groove. Ends of snap ring will be even when right.
Good work.

[David_L]

Push the u joint snap ring into the groove. Ends of snap ring will be even when right.
Good work.

Thanks! I didn't even notice the rings. Great example of why I do this build thread!

[David_L]

I got my dash all wired up but still need to clean it up a bit. Also pulled the front therm fan wire from the front harness to use with switch for manual override of the Sniper if needed. I'm planning on using the button on the Russ Thompson turn signal for my horn.

[David_L]

I received my new PS pump with the remote reservoir and installed the pump. But now need to find a place to mount my reservoir.

Will this work? Hopefully you can see where it is as it was hard to hold the reservoir and take a picture! lol

Is it better to install the PS lines before I install my radiator? Wasn't sure if it would be in the way or not..

[Jeff Kleiner]

That reservoir location will conflict with hood hinge gas strut.

Jeff

[460.465USMC]

Is it better to install the PS lines before I install my radiator? Wasn't sure if it would be in the way or not..

Hi David. It certainly is easier to install them with the radiator out, but I think it can be done afterward as well. I removed my radiator during drivetrain install, so took advantage of the openness and installed the lines.

[David_L]

That reservoir location will conflict with hood hinge gas strut.

Jeff

Jeff thanks so much for the input. Do you have any suggestions on where I could mount it? Hood hinge gas struts are a mod and not standard, correct? I've searched for pictures and this was all I could come up with. I will need to nail this down before I order hoses and parts from Breeze.

Thanks David

[David_L]

I've made some progress, just haven't been updating regularly. lol

I didn't liike how long the FF High and low preasure lines were, plus they didn't include what I needed for the remote reservoir. They were AN10 lines. Also the rack fittings that came with the kit were both for the high preassure and I needed the low preasure fitting. Why FF supplies 2 fittings I will never know.

I ordered my lines and fittings from Breeze to build my own, plus his low preasure 6AN fitting. I've since also ordered the High preasure fitting as I can't get it to stop leaking with just the o-ring. His come with a washer and o-ring so hopefully that will resolve my leak?

After receiving the parts I realized I could have just built the lines using the same parts I built my fuel lines with. Which was Black Braided Nylon with SS brading over the PTFE.

I hope the location I picked for the reservoir won't interfere with anyting later, but the options were limited. It did requre a bit of a dip for the return line to the pump.



Return line. This was the best configuration I could come up with without making the radius of the turn too tight and go under the steering linkage.


Rack connections. It was tight going over the top but it works. Except for the leak.. lol

[David_L]

I installed the headers without too much problem. That dosn't happen often building this car!

FYI I had the headers and side pipe ceramic coated. For black it requred a base coat then a top coat for the black. I think they came out nicely but a little pricey. Something like $800 for the headers, side pipes and the heat shelds. The insides were also coated with the base coat. This should really help with the heat control as well.

PS


DS I have installed the O2 Sensor as well after I took the picture

[David_L]

Since I now had the headers installed I could install the clutch cable. I used the cable (2 for one deal from Mike Forte) with firewall adjuster and he also sent me the cable adjuster extention, which I ended up not needing. I also added the clutch stop bolt and filed down the edges on the clutch quadrant to keep from cutting/wearing the cable.

I also removed the stock mounting bracket as I could see no good place to mount it. Instead I used a cable clip and riveted it in place on the 3/4 tubing.



Cable routing


Added some heat shelding just in case.. It also protects the cable where it was touching the corner of the DS footbox.



The bare aluminum adapter that I don't seem to need. Does anyone need one?

[David_L]

I'm really getting excited! I feel I'm so close to my first start now!

I installed the radiator fan and breeze shroud then installed the radiator using the breeze lower support. I used about a 55 degree angle. I read in the forums anywhere from 51 to 58, and wasn't sure it matters that much?

I also installed the upper lines and lower using the SS flex lines and adapters. I needed a 90 degree hose from the water pump the the T. I did order an aluminum T fill fitting, but turned out the overflow nipple was to close for the ff hose adapter to work, so went with the plastic one in the kit for now.

I used only SS T-Bolt Hose Clamps and also use edwardb or Jeff Kleiner (I think) trick to add 3 small pan head SS screws on the end of each SS flex hose connection. This simulates a nipple so the how adaptor shouldn't pop off down the road.

Installed the FF coolent reservoir and I've read where it might be too small but others have said it works fine.. We will see.

I also install a couple of 1-3/4 Inch Stainless Steel Cable Clamps with rubber cushioning for the lower hose. Then I filled it up! Maybe 3.5 gals or so. No leaks the next day..



Fan shroud



Upper Hose



Lower Hose



Colent reservoir

[David_L]

Prep for the SS Flex hose by adding screws to keep from popout.

[David_L]

Next item it to install the dash temporarily at least, and do some electrical testing and install my side pipes.

Also I may post this issue in the main forum for more feed back. Before I sent my steering hub to Russ for the turn signal mod, I started to fit it on the shaft. It seemed to me that the hole was too small and it was actually pealing back some aluminum. I did have the flat spots lined up. When I was causing so much resistance I stoped trying to install.

Are the any tricks for installing this? I just seems the hole in the hub is too small and I don't want to damage it, expecially after Russ Thomson modified it!

I will post some pictures

See where it's peeling back the aluminum?

[David_L]

Installing my dash using dropped screws that will allow me to remove it with the body on.

Also attempted to install the Russ Thompson Turn Signal but of course I have an issue. The set screw stripped. Don't know if it happed during disassembly or what. Looking at ways to fix this issue. May requre taping and using a larger screw. I'm also wondering if I can't just use a longer screw the same size, drill through the collar and add a small nut inside the collar. I dosn't appear that it will interfer with anything that I can see. I might need to grind off the tip of the set screw to remove that fixed washer/bracker as it appears to be pressed on.

[Fman]

That set screw should not need to be very tight, have you tried a pair of needle nose to grab screw?

[David_L]

I can remove the set screw once I remove the pressed on clip on the end with a dremel. With the threads striped there is nothing to leverage/tighen with.

I think I'm going to get a slighly longer screw and drill a hole in the inside collar then srew into a nut on the inside of the collar. I dosn't appear that it will interferewith anything.

[David_L]

I was able to press on the hub using a Power Steering pully installer. The threads fit and it has a bearing on the pressing head. I will also need a pully remover to get is off as it's so tight.

[David_L]

Connected a 6 amp battery charger to battery leads to test my ignition and gages. Everything seemed to be working and sniper relay was triggering, but my fuel pump wasn't coming on! I tested continuity on my ignition switch, and it was fine. So started testing the RF fuel pump relay. It also seemed to be sending power to the fuel pump. So I dug out the weather pak connection I built and the tank. A cheap connector not a name brand.. lol I found one of the male connectors had pushed back so wasn't getting power.

After fixing that, the fuel pump came on fine!

I added 3.5 gallons of gas and put a heavy plastic bag over the fill tube and zip tied it in place. Turned the ignition switch on to check for leaks. And of course, I had a leak on of the fuel filter fitting. I just required some tightening, and I pressurized once more. No leaks! Even heard the fuel pressure regulator in the sniper click.

[David_L]

Installed the side pipes.

[David_L]

I waited till Sunday when my son could come over to try my first start. I spent a little time tying up lose wiring and making sure everything was clear. We rolled it out of the garage for the first time, blocked the wheels and tried it out! As you can see it was successful!



I do have a short list of issues I need to resolve.

1. Fan didn't come on automatically once the temp was at 180. But I was able to use my manual fan switch on the dash to turn it on, so that's good. This may be related to the other issue. My temp gauge was reading about 28 degrees less then the temp in the sniper. The sniper was saying the fan was on even with the manual switch off..

I'm thinking this may be due to using 2 different sensors, one for the Sniper on the front DS of the manifold and the other one is on the PS but in a stem with a heater hose nipple. Could this cause discrepancy?

Could I just move the gauge feed wire to use the sniper sensor?

2. Voltmeter not working. Should be an easy fix as it should only require a + and - feed. The voltage on the sniper monitor was fine.

Here's a picture of the temp sensors. DS is for the sniper and is just to the right of the distributer partly hidden in picture and PS is for the gauge and it's on the back side of that brass fitting.

[David_L]

I did a check out of the car so after first start, my son and I went for a short ride! Here are a couple of observations.

Transmission is way tighter than other manual transmissions I’ve driven.

Incredible torque! Rear tires broke traction with just a small amount of acceleration when I touched the gas in the video!

I did notice a couple of times, a loud backfire or popping when I let up on the gas pedal. Not sure if that's a concern or not.

Brakes required a lot of force to work, but this might be because it's been years since I drove something without power brakes.

All in all, it was a blast! And I only went maybe 300 yards.