Ready to Start Coyote Engine: Any Cautions?

[32J]

Hi All - Exciting moment! I think I'm at a point where I can start the Coyote engine. All fluids are in. All engine, transmission, fan, and battery wiring is done. The engine temp, oil temp, and oil pressure sensors are in. The fan is ECM controlled and I have the circuit grounded. The only wiring that is not done are the gauges (SpeedHut), switches, lights, and the Russ Thompson turn signals. I've wired-up the ignition switch in a temporary MDF dashboard.

I may temporarily install the side pipes for noise reasons. I need to install the fuel pressure regulator gauge to set the pressure once it's started. Ground the fuel tank. Add fuel. Is there anything I'm overlooking?

Thanks!

32J

[65 Cobra Dude]

I would temporarily wire the oil pressure and water temp sensors just to keep a close eye. Other than that, sounds like you’re ready to turn that key!!!

Henry

[32J]

Right... forgot I had to check for fan activation at ~ 190°F. Thanks!

[Al_C]

got a fire extinguisher? It's always a good idea.

[Alan_C]

I would recommend you pre-lube the engine. There are many threads here regarding the use of a garden sprayer to allow you to get oil circulated throughout the engine, especially the valve train. If you don't do this and the engine has sat for a long time, you will essentially have metal to metal contact until the oil pump can circulate oil.
I plan to go a step further and remove the valve covers from my Coyote so that I can smear assembly lube on the cam lobes as well. This may be excessive, but cheap insurance.

[32J]

Yes, I do. One of the first things I got for my shop when I started learning how to weld! I go through a LOT of grinding discs .

[32J]

I'll have to look into that, thanks. My engine package was assembled by MF and arrived in late April, so about 4 months. But I don't know when the rotating assembly was actually completed by Ford. Should I assume that they used proper high-viscosity engine lube for the build? It's not that hot here in Canada, and my shop is out of the heat. I want to believe that goop is still on the journals and in the valve train, but you raise a good point. Thanks!

[32J]

Another question? Could I just mist some oil through the PCV ports on the Coyote? Again, it hasn't been sitting that long from the factory. Probably a lot less time than some of the mustangs sitting on the lots at the local Ford dealerships. Thanks.

[Alan_C]

Do you want to take a chance and reduce the life of the new engine or worse? The use of the garden sprayer to pre-oil the engine is well documented here. You have put so much effort in getting to this point in the build, not a time to cut corners IMO.

[JohnK]

Couple of thoughts. First, I agree with wiring up the oil pressure and water temp sensors to keep an eye on things. Secondly, on the gen2 coyote, the fuel pressure spec is with the engine off. I'm not sure about the gen3 coyote, but double-check that before setting your fuel pressure regulator. I did pre-lube my gen2 coyote before first start but it was sitting a lot longer than yours. If your engine has only been sitting for a few months you should be fine just firing it up.

[BradCraig]

It took a while cranking to get fuel up to the rails on my Gen 3, but otherwise uneventful. Remember you'll also need a tune!

[32J]

I have the oil pressure and water temp gauges wired-up now (temporarily). The Gen 3 specs a fuel pressure of 65 psi at regulator (running), or 55 with engine off. I have an old garden sprayer (for killing weeds) that I can probably use. I just have to locate the proper port to feed the oil, and then affirm that I can turn the crank over. I've already put the 8 quarts of oil into the motor, though, so I'll have to take some out either before or after the pre-lube sequence. Thanks.

[rich grsc]

you don't need prime the engine oil, just crank it over it'l have oil on the bearings from being assembled

[32J]

Well, I decided to take a closer look at the Ford manual.

Screenshot 2022-08-21 140014.jpg

Pretty clear directions at the bottom:

"WARNING: Before installation, prime the engine by removing the oil pressure switch from the filter adapter. Install
appropriate fitting and using a pre-lube tank to prime oiling system. Verify that the oil reaches the valve train, valve
cover removal may be necessary. Oil at the valve train confirms the engine is primed.
Check oil level and fill as necessary."

Guess it's off to the store for another quart of 5W-50.


32J

[MB750]

you don't need prime the engine oil, just crank it over it'l have oil on the bearings from being assembled

Pretty directions at the bottom:

"WARNING: Before installation, prime the engine by removing the oil pressure switch from the filter adapter. Install
appropriate fitting and using a pre-lube tank to prime oiling system. Verify that the oil reaches the valve train, valve
cover removal may be necessary. Oil at the valve train confirms the engine is primed.
Check oil level and fill as necessary."

Guess it's off to the store for another quart of 5W-50.


32J

LOL... I love the internet.

[rich grsc]

Me too. My recommendation was based on thinking the engine had been run at one time. My bad

[edwardb]

That screen grab appears to be taken out of an engine manual. Makes sense that things are properly lubed if doing a teardown and/or re-assembly. But not necessarily applicable in this case. For the crate motor, there's nothing in the provided instructions that mentions priming the engine. You could always call the help line at Ford Performance and get their response. I'm confident it leaves the factory with assembly lube (Ford is not a beginner at this) and I'm betting they don't pre-lube them after dropping into Mustangs at the factory. They start them and drive away. I've started both of my Coyote crate motor builds with nothing special other than making sure the oil filter was full when I installed it. They had full oil pressure almost instantly at start (over 100 PSI) and have never had issues. Obviously, not going to hurt anything if you choose to prime it. Your choice.

[Avalanche325]

I recommend that 1st starts are done outside in case of a fire. Like stated, have a fire extinguisher, or two, handy and someone ready to use it.
I would prime it.

[32J]

Well, I removed the OEM fuel pressure sensor and primed the oil circuit with about 800 ml of oil. Added some fuel, installed the battery, and turned they to the on, but not start. I heard some clicking in the motor, but I could not hear the fuel pump and I did not see the fuel pressure needle move at all. I must be missing something. Suggestions?

[32J]

And I made sure the inertia switch was pushed in / closed.

[32J]

I disconnected the fuel pump and tested the voltage at the leads feeding the fuel pump: 0 volts when I turn the key to ON.

[Nigel Allen]

Crank it. Then see if the fuel pump gets energised.

[32J]

Crank it. Then see if the fuel pump gets energised.

Well, before I try that, I'd like to double-check whether or not I'm supposed to get fuel pump voltage at the 'On' position of the key. I've followed the latest versions of the RF instructions and the Coyote Fitment instructions, and I believe I've properly connected the RF to the EFI harness for the fuel relay and signal.

IMG_1161.jpgIMG_1162.jpgIMG_1163.jpgIMG_1164.jpg

I've read few other posts and I believe most say that fuel pump should be running for at least a few seconds when the key is first turned to the On position. One fellow mentioned his problem was a "faulty connector from the RF harness to the fuel pump." ??? I spaded the harness directly the fuel pump leads so I don't think that would be my problem.

[JohnK]

A few people have reported that the gen3 PCM will not energize the fuel pump in the "on" position prior to first start, however once the engine is cranked and started the fuel pump then behaves normally from that point on (i.e., the pump will run for a second or two when the key is switched to the "on" position). I agree with the advice to crank it and see what happens.

[32J]

A few people have reported that the gen3 PCM will not energize the fuel pump in the "on" position prior to first start, however once the engine is cranked and started the fuel pump then behaves normally from that point on (i.e., the pump will run for a second or two when the key is switched to the "on" position). I agree with the advice to crank it and see what happens.

Interesting... Okay, maybe I'll give it a go. I primed the oil circuit so at least I don't have that to worry about.

[Lidodrip]

I have a Gen 2 Coyote and the fuel pump comes on briefly when the ignition is turned on, prior to cranking. I believe the wiring is the same for both Gen 2 and 3 with regards to the fuel pump. Since you have a spaded connection between the Ford harness fuel pump wire and FFR fuel pump relay control wire, you could disconnect and check to make sure you are getting 12v from the Ford harness when you initially turn the ignition on. If that checks out, I would double check that you connected the Ford harness fuel pump wire to the correct end of the FFR fuel pump relay control wire that you cut in the fuse panel. It should go to the relay side, not the buss bar end.

[32J]

Okay, so I decided to try turning it all the way to start. Pushed the clutch in and turned the key. Motor cranked, but would not fire. I kept checking the fuel pressure and I had to dial it up a few times. After about 4 tries, I stopped. Still wouldn't fire. Discovered a small leak downstream of the inline fuel filter, so I tightened that up, cleaned up the mess, and called it a night.

So, for Gen 3 Coyote, looks like there is no 12V to the fuel pump on "ON" for the first time, but definitely at the "START" position. I'm hoping it was lack of fuel pressure that prevented it from starting. Will try again tomorrow.

[edwardb]

Just to positively confirm what others are saying, the Gen 2 and Gen 3 Coyote PCM only sends +12V to the fuel pump very briefly when you first turn the key to run. You may catch a reading with a VOM. But be ready because it happens quickly. In my experience, even though a short run, I do see a bump in the fuel pressure at the gauge. Note it doesn't send +12V again until you shut the system off and let it reset. Which takes 10-15 seconds. You can hear relays click when it shuts down. Repeatedly cycling the key from off to run without a reset will show zero volts. Assuming all is OK, the PCM will run the pump continuously once the engine starts.

My Gen 2 started almost immediately on the first try. The Gen 3 took some additional cranking the first time. But after that starts quickly. Others have reported the same thing. Maybe something to do with the direct injection?

[32J]

Just to positively confirm what others are saying, the Gen 2 and Gen 3 Coyote PCM only sends +12V to the fuel pump very briefly when you first turn the key to run. You may catch a reading with a VOM. But be ready because it happens quickly. In my experience, even though a short run, I do see a bump in the fuel pressure at the gauge. Note it doesn't send +12V again until you shut the system off and let it reset. Which takes 10-15 seconds. You can hear relays click when it shuts down. Repeatedly cycling the key from off to run without a reset will show zero volts. Assuming all is OK, the PCM will run the pump continuously once the engine starts.

My Gen 2 started almost immediately on the first try. The Gen 3 took some additional cranking the first time. But after that starts quickly. Others have reported the same thing. Maybe something to do with the direct injection?

Thanks for affirming, Sir Edward. After I double-check the fittings on the fuel filter I'll give it another go later today and see if she fires-up. The leak at least proved that I'm getting some fuel pressure! Looking at the +ve side of things (pun intended).

32J

[Railroad]

Off topic a little, does the fuel pressure sensor port tap into the oil galleys of the engine?

[32J]

Off topic a little, does the fuel pressure sensor port tap into the oil galleys of the engine?

There is a sensor on the driver's side fuel rail, so my presumption is that is the fuel pressure sensor. It is downstream of the Aeromotive pressure regulator. I'm hoping that a combination of the fuel leak downstream of the inline canister filter and the low pressure set-point was causing the engine to not fire-up. I'm just checking tightness of fittings now...

[Tooth]

The suspense is killing me. I've got a gen 3 coyote sitting in my garage, but I'm ages from a start. I hope to see a first start video on here in the near future.

[32J]

The suspense is killing me. I've got a gen 3 coyote sitting in my garage, but I'm ages from a start. I hope to see a first start video on here in the near future.

Killing you?! I'm as nervous as hell! I haven't had this much anxiety since right before I proposed to my wife! Maybe that's why cars are usually referred to as 'she' ?

[rich grsc]

why? put fuel in the tank, oil in the engine. turn key till it starts, nothing to be nervous about.

[32J]

why? put fuel in the tank, oil in the engine. turn key till it starts, nothing to be nervous about.

Yoohoo! She fired up! Made a short video:

[rich grsc]

See, nothing to worry about.

[Nigel Allen]

Runs like a dream. No more sleepless nights

[32J]

Another learning for the newbies out there like me: double check that your RF fuse block kit actually has all the fuses! I was trying to figure out why my gauges weren't working, and as it turns out, that's the one fuse missing from my block Doh!