I’ve installed the battery in the trunk directly behind the seats as instructed in the manual, but upon standing back and looking at it, it appears that it will be far inside of the actual truck lid opening. Will there be issues removing/replacing the batteries with the hold down studs being near the top of the trunk compartment and close to the body? Any firsthand experience here would be appreciated.
FFR #8305; IRS, 347; T5 Trans; EFI, 3.27 Rear; 17x9" Front; 17x10.5" Rear
Paint - Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray (J7) with Black Stripes; Painted by "da Bat"
Complete Kit Delivered 05/15/2014; Titled and Registered 4/14/2017 as a 1965!!
You have the option of installing it in the engine bay too. Breeze makes an excellent battery box for this purpose and it makes it very easy to get to the battery.
Last edited by GTBradley; 03-28-2022 at 12:13 PM.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
Several of us have opted to relocate the battery up front. You may want to investigate this option. Several advantages, shorter cable leads and improved access.
MKII donor build using 1990 LX. 5.0, EFI, 5sp. 3 Link, 3.55 gears, 5 lug disc. brakes, 15" Halibrand style wheels and other upgrades added over the years. On the road since 2003.
I am one of the several Flip Smiley mentioned. Made my own battery box, sorry Mark ( I did buy a lot of your other stuff ), and used the space that the ffmetals box goes in as a tool box. Here are some old pictures from the build. I have replaced the battery since then and it was pretty easy to do.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
I am one of the several Flip Smiley mentioned. Made my own battery box, sorry Mark ( I did buy a lot of your other stuff ), and used the space that the ffmetals box goes in as a tool box. Here are some old pictures from the build. I have replaced the battery since then and it was pretty easy to do.
Flip and I made a video of locating our batteries in the engine bay. We talked about the advantages as well. Easy to get to, short battery cables, more trunk space, etc.
If you have a 302 or 351W, there is plenty of room in front of the engine.
then you have more space for chairs, tools, blankets, beverages, etc in your trunk.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Davis
Pepper Gray Metallic with black metallic stripes ("Eleanor" colors) Mark 2 FFR
351 Windsor, tremec 3550 5 spd, 3 link rear end http://cobra.prairieroad.com/
1982 Honda Goldwing Aspencade restored in 2008
I'm using the FF Metal box. No issue getting the battery out. I also had custom battery cables made in 1/0 to prevent the current restriction issues with 4 gage that comes with the kit. Everything works great. custom battery cables .com $200.
FFR Roadster 10032 - Ordered Oct 2020, Received Mar 2021 - 95% done before paint. BPE 347, Sniper, TKO. Build School Oct 2020. St. Paul, MN
+1 to CaptB's suggestion. It tucks it away nicely. A small challenge to remove, but I am fashioning a sling to place underneath to help facilitate removal. It will have a handhold on either end, slip underneath the battery, and when it's time, I can just grab the handles and lift.
As far as the long runs, as others have mentioned, just use the right size cable, and that is a nonissue. I also like the idea that the weight is centerline above the IRS.
Either location will work great, but we each have our preference...
I’ve installed the battery in the trunk directly behind the seats as instructed in the manual, but upon standing back and looking at it, it appears that it will be far inside of the actual truck lid opening. Will there be issues removing/replacing the batteries with the hold down studs being near the top of the trunk compartment and close to the body? Any firsthand experience here would be appreciated.
Another Breeze front mounted battery fan here, anything to free up more space in the trunk it is prime real estate in there. Also very easy access to the battery in front of the engine.
I'm planning on a Braille B3121 under the upper floor to the right of center and over the 2015 IRS support framework. Might be a bit tight but so far my models fit.
Big battery cable solves the wiring issues.
Front location is dedicated to Accusump, Laminova oil cooler and the power steering cooler.
Jim
2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.
In hindsight - I probably should have investigated the trunk battery box to gain additional space in the trunk area - using that for tools is an excellent idea.. I did use the Cobra Earl drop trunk and very glad I did so.
In hindsight - I probably should have investigated the trunk battery box to gain additional space in the trunk area - using that for tools is an excellent idea.. I did use the Cobra Earl drop trunk and very glad I did so.
Could you elaborate on this Cobra Earl drop trunk? Are there instructions or a kit somewhere?
I would like a glove box where the battery is usually installed, so I’m thinking of moving it over to the passenger side tucked under the roll bar. I’m not really concerned about trunk space, so the extra work of a drop or front mount doesn’t seem worth it. Reasonable?
I would like a glove box where the battery is usually installed, so I’m thinking of moving it over to the passenger side tucked under the roll bar. I’m not really concerned about trunk space, so the extra work of a drop or front mount doesn’t seem worth it. Reasonable?
The centre of the trunk floor is reinforced to support the battery in the position directed by the instructions. Outside of this area the battery will be sitting on the aluminum sheeting without support. Not sure if that is a great idea.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
I'm planning on a Braille B3121 under the upper floor to the right of center and over the 2015 IRS support framework. Might be a bit tight but so far my models fit.
Big battery cable solves the wiring issues.
Front location is dedicated to Accusump, Laminova oil cooler and the power steering cooler.
Jim
Highly recommend antigravity lithium battery rather than Braille. A little more expensive but only 25% of the weight and they seem to be a lot more reliable than the Braille AGMs. Mine only weighs 5lbs and it cranks a high compression 376 way faster than my Braille ever did, and it doesnt lose charge sitting for a month off a tender like the Braille did
I would like a glove box where the battery is usually installed, so I’m thinking of moving it over to the passenger side tucked under the roll bar. I’m not really concerned about trunk space, so the extra work of a drop or front mount doesn’t seem worth it. Reasonable?
If you get a high end lightweight battery you can put it wherever you want. If you have a 50lb battery it needs to have the added support like the "factory" location
If you get a high end lightweight battery you can put it wherever you want. If you have a 50lb battery it needs to have the added support like the "factory" location
Would an Optima Red Top qualify as lightweight?
There’s a 1X1 running diagonally mostly under the intended battery location, too.
Last edited by PaulRSchmidt; 03-29-2022 at 12:00 PM.
A red top is lighter, but not light. If you do move it somewhere else, you need to add a backing plate or secure the battery hold down through a frame member. I would definitely not trust any battery tie down that's simply going into .040 aluminum to restrain a battery in an accident.
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
A red top is lighter, but not light. If you do move it somewhere else, you need to add a backing plate or secure the battery hold down through a frame member. I would definitely not trust any battery tie down that's simply going into .040 aluminum to restrain a battery in an accident.
Ah, fair point. I had been thinking of fatigue, not an accident.
If I decide I don’t need a heater (TX), the point becomes moot, as I’ll install a glove box in the traditional location.
Ah, fair point. I had been thinking of fatigue, not an accident.
If I decide I don’t need a heater (TX), the point becomes moot, as I’ll install a glove box in the traditional location.
You can have the heater and a 3 inch deep glove box in the standard location with a little fabrication skills. I made a box that moved the heater 2 1/2 inches forward to allow for this. Here's another old picture.
HTH
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Mine is mounted on the right side of the lower trunk floor. It doesn't take up to much room, and is easy access for charging or replacement.
I think that was FFR's suggested location for the MK3.1 builds.
Highly recommend antigravity lithium battery rather than Braille. A little more expensive but only 25% of the weight and they seem to be a lot more reliable than the Braille AGMs. Mine only weighs 5lbs and it cranks a high compression 376 way faster than my Braille ever did, and it doesnt lose charge sitting for a month off a tender like the Braille did
Antigravity batteries are really cool, especially with the remote jumpstart option. But I wouldn't say they are "a little more expensive". They're quite a bit more money.
They last longer, require less maintenance and in my opinion are absolutely worth the cost, but still a good amount of $$$ up front.
Last edited by zee; 03-30-2022 at 09:07 AM.
Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
MKIV with BPE 347 & TKX. IRS. A crap ton of mods. Build thread
Antigravity batteries are really cool, especially with the remote jumpstart option. But I wouldn't say they are "a little more expensive". They're quite a bit more money.
They last longer, require less maintenance and in my opinion are absolutely worth the cost, but still a good amount of $$$ up front.
Not that big of a difference on these cars once youre already comparing the Braille he referenced, the antigravity I have was $350, the Braille is $250. For a new car that has big power demands yeah there is a major difference those can be around $1k.
Not that big of a difference on these cars once youre already comparing the Braille he referenced, the antigravity I have was $350, the Braille is $250. For a new car that has big power demands yeah there is a major difference those can be around $1k.
$350? Which one?
Complete novice who doesn't know what he's doing.
MKIV with BPE 347 & TKX. IRS. A crap ton of mods. Build thread
Could you elaborate on this Cobra Earl drop trunk? Are there instructions or a kit somewhere?
Do a search for "Dropped Trunk Mod", and a half dozen or so will turn up.....Not too hard to do from scratch, but the kits do make it easier if you do not have access to a bending brake or an aluminum source.
I have the FFmetal box in my 2011 MKIV. Very nice. To be honest, I have the same battery in there since 2012. I ran a charger lead out the trunk and it stays on a tender. I am running a regular big box store battery, nothing fancy.
I mounted the FFR battery box under the upper trunk floor with a couple of simple metal straps screwed to the frame. Will fashion a hinged door in the trunk aluminum for access. Seems to be plenty of room for battery removal when the time comes.20220330_125440.jpg
I replaced mine last year. 8 years after it went in. Easy operation. There is a hole in the bottom so you use a jack and a piece of wood and it pops right out. Then you easily lower the new one down.
It is something that needs to be done every 7 - 10 years. Is access really a concern?
You also don't want to add weight to the front of the car. That is why the engine is so far back. Heat is also not good for a battery.
Cobra Earl is no longer with us. He made a couple of enhancements available to people for years. His drop trunk utilized the space between the middle-to-driver side area of the gas tank, recessing the trunk floor below the 1" rear frame rails that support the as-designed trunk floor along with providing a crunch zone for rear-end collisions presumably. I know there is some other vendor on the forum that supplies similar.
You guys can spend all you want, but my Odyssey PC 680 is 6 yrs old has never needed maintenance or charging. It's only $173. Why would you want to spend up to a grand?
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
The front battery box is a great option, but remember it's a smaller battery. Suggest you add a battery tender to keep the charge up if it's going to sit for an extended time.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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Originally Posted by CaptB
), and used the space that the ffmetals box goes in as a tool box. Here are some old pictures from the build. I have replaced the battery since then and it was pretty easy to do.
