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Thread: for making smooth cuts in aluminum, do you use snips or other tools?

  1. #1
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Question for making smooth cuts in aluminum, do you use snips or other tools?

    I think I've seen some of you using a router with a metal bit, seems that would be great for trimming holes, etc

    or does everyone use regular snips?

    I have a 3 pack of shears, left, right and straight cuts...

    (M123R) Aviation Snip Set (3-Piece) by Wiss

    Last edited by toadster; 03-08-2021 at 10:23 AM.
    Todd
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    I use a band saw more than snips. If you decide to work w/ snips I recommend this type.
    https://www.amazon.com/MIDWEST-Aviat...19077746&psc=1
    The angled blades get your fingers away from the just cut raw edge so you get less blood on the aluminum.
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    No tool does it all but here’s what we’ve used: band saw, Milwaukee 3” cutoff saw, “tin snips”- lf, rt, straight cuts, Dremel.

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    I use an air nibbler whenever I want an intricate shape, or something you cant get snips into like a gear shift hole. Nibblers are very messy - those little chips get everywhere and hang around forever. You still have to sane the edge but you don't get any bends or stretches like snips.

    Snips are my go-to for most work, and I rarely use the straight! Even on straight lines, the left or right are easier for me to use. Wear gloves and have bandaids handy

    I haven't used many power tools cos you need such a fine tooth blade.
    James

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    ...so you get less blood on the aluminum


    Aint that the truth!

    Jeff

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    I use my bandsaw as much as possible. With a metal cutting blade, makes nice cuts that require only a little touch up. For large pieces or inside cuts, my go-to is a handheld jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. In both cases, a little wax (I use an old candle) rubbed on the blade smooths things out and keeps aluminum from sticking in the teeth of the blade. In a pinch, I've used a Dremel, air saw, sawzall, etc. A router works too. I've done some "precision" work with a router in a router table. Works OK with small bites. But not something I'd do regularly. Chips go everywhere BTW.
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    For straight cut, scribe it with tile scribe and snap it
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    I tried a bunch of things throughout the build and the best thing so far for me has been the jigsaw with metal blade. Very clean, straight cuts without much effort.
    Matt

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    I use Kett shears for straight or almost straight cuts.

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    Tool Baron
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    I use a 12 year old electric shear from HF similar to this one.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/14-gau...ars-64609.html
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    I almost started a similar thread, struggling a bit getting clean cuts. I cut the big holes for my heater with a step bit. I tried to use an air saw for the blower hole. It was ok but not awesome. I will need to cut a cubby hole at some point and need to experiment. Using the donor foot box panel as my go to test piece.

    Im going to try Paul’s method.

    I don’t have any way to hold a piece that big securely is there any reason I couldn’t cleco it into the frame and saw it there?
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  20. #13
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    For straight cut, scribe it with tile scribe and snap it
    yeah that's a cool trick, but I'm looking for more internal, not edge to edge cuts
    Todd
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  21. #14
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzboy54 View Post
    I almost started a similar thread, struggling a bit getting clean cuts. I cut the big holes for my heater with a step bit. I tried to use an air saw for the blower hole. It was ok but not awesome. I will need to cut a cubby hole at some point and need to experiment. Using the donor foot box panel as my go to test piece.

    Im going to try Paul’s method.

    I don’t have any way to hold a piece that big securely is there any reason I couldn’t cleco it into the frame and saw it there?
    that's a great idea! the clecos are plenty strong to hold the piece - do it and report back!
    Todd
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  23. #15
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    one nice thing, aluminum sheet is relatively cheap so i can practice a bit before I hit the 'on-car' parts
    Todd
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    Bought an air nibbler years ago, used it on every "mod" I've done to my car over 18 years; battery box, foot box extensions, drop butt mod, dash forward, etc.
    Holes punched used by electricians for conduit . . .
    The Wiss snips for detailed close-up work.

    Doc
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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I usually use a dremel and then file the edge to make it perfect. This cubby wall speaker hole was pretty hair raising to do. One slip and I could have destroyed the piece:



    For straight lines either a band saw or dremel. My band saw blade waivers a bit so I usually get it close, then finish with a file.

    HTH

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  27. #18
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    I've used a variety of tools that others have mentioned, but the cordless jigsaw I picked up recently now gets the most use. With some practice under my belt, I can now get close enough so cleanup is only a few minutes with the file. A disk sander would make this still faster. As Paul said ... wax on the blade deals with sticking. A very thin wipe of white lithium grease on the backside of the cut if you want to extend blade life.

    ... jeez Dave how'd you get so good with the Dremel. That cut musta puckered you up some
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    I mostly used a jigsaw and Dremel. I really don't like what snips do to the edges. If I were building again, I would get a Bladerunner. I used a friends, and it was really nice.

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    I've used a router with a number of pieces if I'm able to make a template. It's best to use a solid carbide bit and lubricate with WD40 or something similar. The best thing I've found are the Milwaukee 18V double edge sheers. They cut a really lines straight or curved and do not leave a sharp edge. I do wish I had a nibbler for those more detailed or interior cuts, maybe I'll get on this year. I've worked a lot with aluminum this year helping a fellow racer build a custom car, it's been a learning curve for him and me to both cut, bend, and weld panels and large pieces as thick as 1/4". We've used all the traditional tools snips, cutoff tools, plasma cutter, saws-all, jig saw, hand bandsaw, stationary bandsaw, and sheers.
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    I used a hand nibbler similar to this:
    https://www.amazon.com/Draper-Expert...5Q4KHN2S2K7949
    It makes relatively smooth cuts with some cleanup required to the edges. It gives your hands a good workout, though!
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    To the OP,

    Having done aircraft aluminum fabrication for many years, it's worth mentioning that the shears you're using should be fine. The 'clean cut' aspect really comes from the technique. One of the tricks we learned back in A&P school was to never bring the handles together completely when cutting, just cut about 2/3's of the way down the shear blade, then open up the grip and move the shear down a little further. Repeat this until you've cut the length desired and it will be a 'clean cut' every time!

    HTH,
    Will
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  34. #24
    25th Anniversary #9772 toadster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvaz View Post
    To the OP,

    Having done aircraft aluminum fabrication for many years, it's worth mentioning that the shears you're using should be fine. The 'clean cut' aspect really comes from the technique. One of the tricks we learned back in A&P school was to never bring the handles together completely when cutting, just cut about 2/3's of the way down the shear blade, then open up the grip and move the shear down a little further. Repeat this until you've cut the length desired and it will be a 'clean cut' every time!

    HTH,
    Will
    yeah, that's my technique as well- once you close the snips it creates a jag/edge that ruins the smoothness
    Todd
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  35. #25
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    Band saw has worked the best for me, followed by a flapper disk on the grinder

  36. #26
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    I used Paul’s method this weekend and it worked great. Nice clean smooth cuts.
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