Jim's Build Thread

[FF33rod]

That soft top looks great! Not sure why I didn't seriously consider it

Steve

[33fromSD]

Ya, you're probably right. Fix it once, fix it right, and be done with it.

Amen to that!!

[33fromSD]

That soft top looks great! Not sure why I didn't seriously consider it

Steve

Thanks Steve...yeah, the company did a heck of a job on design / fit / final look. Once the body mounts were installed everything else lines up really well. I measured the locations for the mounts about 10 times before I drilled the holes to be sure everything was right (very unusual for me...normally I measure once or twice and drill).

Even FFR coordinated with these guys because the FFR's windshield frame had holes drilled / tapped in the right location to accept Rag Tops latch hardware. Only thing I need to do is measure / drill / tap two holes on each side of the windshield frame for the snaps on the side curtains.

This top can then either be folded down, or it can be quickly removed completely and run with FFR cover on the back.

I'm pretty pleased. I love the look of the hard top, I just didn't want to deal with putting it on and taking it off all the time.

Jim

[cob427sc]

I have the soft top too. Easy to install and looks perfect. I don't have the side curtains.

[e36m3]

A little learning for folks with Gen2 kits. Sorry if this has been pointed out already.

When I was doing the fenders / running boards this weekend I was grabbing the tops of the doors to pull myself up a lot not thinking twice about it. this morning I ran out to the 33 to check a part I had on the inside and the drivers door opened harder than normal and it shut even worse.....I thought WTH. Tried the passenger door and same thing. I had these adjusted where you barely had to push on them and they latched flawlessly. Very odd.

I started looking at it, and thought perhaps I forgot to tighten one of the bolts so the door shifted / sagged ....I checked and nope, everything was tight. Then I started looking at the long door bar and saw the slots in it where the carriage bolts sit connecting the long door bar and the hinge bracket together, and thought even though the bolts are tight are they pivoting in the slots when weight is applied....That is exactly what is happening. Figured this will really apply to the folks with power windows since it adds extra weight to the door shell so I thought I should make you guys aware of this.

While things seem tight, grab the bottom of your door by the striker latch end and lift up and then on the top of the door push down and you can physically watch the long bar teeter in the slots (moves 1/16 to 1/8" which just compounds the farther out you get). There is enough slop in the slots compared to the square on the carriage bolt where the bar can teeter no matter how tight the hardware is.

I ended up drilling 5/16" holes through the long door bar and hinge bracket, and put in two 5/16-18 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each door and it stiffened everything up and won't allow the long door bar to shift/pivot any longer. With the doors open, I can now lean on them and they no longer sag. I may also just tack weld the two parts together since I don't plan on ever taking them part again (they can stay in for painting, I'll just mask them off), but for now this fixes it too.

Just FYI

Jim

Attachment 140336

Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on this. This makes a lot of sense to me.
Andy

[33fromSD]

The top company got back to me this morning right away, they have a driver's side curtain on the way to me. Super fast response, very apologetic for the over-sight, awesome customer support. between this company for the top and FFR themselves, I have been very impressed with responsiveness and turn around time with items requiring attention. 1st class customer support!!

That is the number one question I get with people when they see my 33 and are interested in building their own..."How is FFR to deal with on issues?"...can't speak for the majority but all my issues have always been solved immediately and with immediate responses to all my occasional questions.

[33fromSD]

Busy weekend with a lot of piddly stuff done. Started with removing the rag top and packing that away until my replacement side curtain arrives.

Moved on to draining the cooling system so I could install the heater hoses for the Vintage Air heater/defrost system which led me to have to swap out the thermostat housing to a right angle version verses the 45 degree one I was running, due to needing to swing the alternator out wider in order to access the coolant passage nipple on the water pump. Do you sense things are spiraling yet?

That of course caused me to have to get a longer turn-buckle adjustor for the alternator and move it down a few holes on the water pump. All this then caused me to have to rethink / replumb the upper radiator hose which I have new parts coming this week as well as order a longer 8-rib serpentine belt due to the alternator being out farther now. Man, it just all spiraled and led to one thing after another after another. All good though.

I must admit that working on the engine without hood, side covers and full fenders installed was a much more pleasurable experience verses doing it now with all that stuff installed. The tired back didn't appreciate all the bending / stretching / leaning but it's getting there.

I still need to route the wiring to the inline heater control for the heat / defrost system in the engine bay and get a 1/2 NPT x 5/8" barbed 90 degree fitting for the intake manifold but for the most part it's plumbed.

Some folks are going to ask why I put a flush tee in-line...two reasons...
1) I like to have them installed when filling the coolant system, I leave the cap off to help the air escape and I put the cap on when I see coolant coming out slightly or coolant is up to the top of the tee.
2) BPE puts an orange dye additive in their engines when they do the run test to check for issues so my coolant after my first go-karting was bright orange, I called being a bit concerned, and they confirmed it was normal and I could leave it like it was or flush it if it bugs me.....well, it bugs me, I'm old school, antifreeze in a SBF should be green, not orange so I'll flush the block once I get it running again.

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Up next (this upcoming weekend) I'm going to finish up in the engine bay (install the parts coming this week), then replumb the lowered radiator hose (the belly panel was hitting the hose so I need to reroute it), then install my wire conduit in the doors for the speaker wire, then fit the dash panel and start installing the gauge cluster, stereo, ignition & other switches / heater controls. Finally get the tranny tunnel installed...still haven't decided if I'm going to stick with the one that came with the kit or design my own.

Then it's time for final body prep (oh yeah, still need to install tail lights & headlights but no biggie).

[narly1]

I've already picked up one of these with the intention of routing the upper rad hose up and out of the way:

housing.jpeg

I might also do away with the rad cap/filler neck piece that goes up by the rad in favour of something like this:

filler neck.jpg

[33fromSD]

Besides media blasting my 55 F100 Cab yesterday, I spent the rest of yesterday and this morning (need to watch my Packers this afternoon) working on braces for the engine side panels. Even without the full front fenders, I was a little concerned how much in and out movement was on the side covers, and then when I added the full front fenders, the area of the side covers around the suspension had a good 1/2" to 3/4" deflection if you wiggled the front fenders.

I started out by riveting a 3' section of 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle to the underside of the engine covers on the top and riveted them every 6"

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Just these two alone took care of the majority of the in and out movement on the upper part of the side panel.

Speedway motors has these awesome aluminum clamps to fit tubing so I bought four 1-1/2" clamps....figured rather than drilling into the frame, why not just put clamps. the other nice thing about these clamps is they are pre-tapped with two 10-32 holes as well as a 3/8" hole

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Next I made a 1" x 1/8" steel bracket to go the the top of the aluminum I installed and bolted it down to one of these aluminum clamps in the center of the top of the engine side panel. Bolted those in and I can now push and pull on the top of the side covers and the whole car rocks with is awesome.

Moved on to the fenders next, I took some 3" x 3/16" steel plate and used three of the bolts I drilled for the fenders on the highest part of the curve on the fender at the point I was seeing the most deflection. The I made a 1" x 1/8" steel bracket and welded that to the plate I made and bolted it the frame bar using one of the aluminum clamps. Not more deflection, the fender in the front and the top is now solid.

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For stiffening up the rear of the front fender I made a support bracket out of 3/4" aluminum angle and a repro 1932 fender bracket I ordered and installed also installed 2" sections of 3" x 3/6 steel plate behind the engine covers to give the fiberglass some support. This greatly improved that deflection point as well. You'll see them if you look in through the tire but you won't see them from the side.

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Now I am no longer concerned with these fenders shaking on idle or someone coming up and putting some weight on them, they aren't going anywhere now. Jim

[FF33rod]

Looks excellent, good work. I was thinking of something similar (aluminum angle) for the top of the side covers to keep the right shape relative to the hood. At the moment the middle sticks too far out.

Steve

[e36m3]

Well thought out approach, nice.

[Shades]

Jim, I think you have the fastest build I've seen!
Going all the way back to post 99, rear suspension: I don't think it matters which way to install the lower controls arms; with the FFR towards the front or rear, but I did notice that you split the difference and did one each way.

I just installed mine yesterday, and I thought that part might be more visible towards the front (and I'd like to be able to see it at least partially), though probably only for those really crouching down to look. Do you have a preference based on how it's coming together with tires and body, given that you have both options in real life? It looks like you might be able to see some of it between the tire and body at the front.

Also I noticed you went with the lower holes for both upper and lower arms. What went into that decision? -not questioning it at all, just curious as it might influence mine. My differential is pointing down more than I'd expect and I wonder of that might change the angle.

[33fromSD]

Jim, I think you have the fastest build I've seen!
Going all the way back to post 99, rear suspension: I don't think it matters which way to install the lower controls arms; with the FFR towards the front or rear, but I did notice that you split the difference and did one each way.

I just installed mine yesterday, and I thought that part might be more visible towards the front (and I'd like to be able to see it at least partially), though probably only for those really crouching down to look. Do you have a preference based on how it's coming together with tires and body, given that you have both options in real life? It looks like you might be able to see some of it between the tire and body at the front.

Also I noticed you went with the lower holes for both upper and lower arms. What went into that decision? -not questioning it at all, just curious as it might influence mine. My differential is pointing down more than I'd expect and I wonder of that might change the angle.

Thanks Shades

In order of your questions / comments

On the lower control arms, My thinking was the only place you're really going to get a look at the LAs is when you're under the vehicle, so no matter if a person looks at the right side or left side I set up the "FFR" so you're reading it left to right as if you're reading from a page. Like you note, there really is not a right or wrong way but that was my thinking.

With the full fenders and running boards on you really need to crouch down from the outside to see them so I was focusing on being under the car like at a car show or it's on a lift, etc. Just me, just my opinion.

On your last point, if you're running the full fenders / running boards the manual instructs using the lower holes so you have the correct clearance between the tire and fender when the ride height is properly set.

The differential will come up quite a bit once the car is on it's wheels.

Good luck on your build.

Jim

[Shades]

Thanks for the quick reply. I forgot that the full fenders ride higher. I will have bike fenders, which I believe are the same in the back, so I'll have to see. I can always change holes when I see what it looks like on the ground with tires.

[33fromSD]

Busy day today......

Ran my conduit / speaker wire to the doors for the speakers in the doors (forgot to snap a pic of that) and fitted the rear speakers in the waterfall and reinstalled the waterfall

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Next, I fitted the wiper motor and installed the wiper blade. Since I have a rag top I did not want the motor on top of the windshield, nor drilled through the windshield glass like it's designed to be so I needed a plan-B. In fact, I didn't even want to see the motor so I spent about an hour looking at various locations. I found a spot on the bottom of the windshield frame I could drill through and mount the motor from the inside of the cowl through the windshield frame.

Once the hole was drilled, I made a couple aluminum spacers with the correct angle to sit against the windshield frame and the cowl on the inside for the motor shaft.

A little nerve wracking drilling into the frame not quite knowing where the glass ends but it all worked out. Works awesome and the wiper blades sits nice and tight against the frame in the resting position. just need to find a cap to cover the nut on the outside. Should be able to find something from some classic car.

Windshield Wiper motor kit ordered from Speedway Motors = https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Unive...Kit,38962.html

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Next I fitted the dash panel and got that mounted so I could figure out where to put the gauge cluster and stereo so I can figure out where the rest of the knobs and switches will go. I wanted the gauge cluster in the spot behind the wheel but I was 1/4" too shy of space so I put it in the middle. Tomorrow I'll place the remaining switches and knobs and then start cleaning up the wiring.

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Last thing I did today before calling it quits was to do a rough mark up of where I'm going to put my vent holes on the engine side panels. I found some really nice 2" round 49 Buick ventiports that should be arrive early next week which will work great for this.

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Jim

[narly1]

Busy day today...... just need to find a cap to cover the nut on the outside. Should be able to find something from some classic car.

Nice job on the wiper motor install. Any chance that you could take some measurements or make a template for the windshield frame hole location?

Also the cap you are looking for is called a "wiper shaft bezel" lots of different ones out there on Google.

Earl

[33fromSD]

Nice job on the wiper motor install. Any chance that you could take some measurements or make a template for the windshield frame hole location?

Also the cap you are looking for is called a "wiper shaft bezel" lots of different ones out there on Google.

Earl

Hey Earl...yeah, I'll take some measurements of the hole location tomorrow and post them. Jim

[Shades]

If you could, would love to see what the wiper motor looks like inside the dash, and is it mounted to anything other than just through the fiberglass. I'm surprised there's room in there. Would need to plan when mounting all the other things that go in there. And seems like it's close to the master cylinders.

[33fromSD]

Hey Shades

Where I have it on the side is plenty room, it's actually pretty far from the MC & Clutch MC. At least 2 inches away from anything (brake lines, MC, etc.)

Also, it's mounted through the aluminum cast windshield frame (probably going through ~1/2 - 3/4" of aluminum) as well the fiberglass body so it's not going anywhere. The pic below is the best shot I have of it for now since the dash is now buttoned up. I'll try to remember to take more pics once I disassemble everything for final body work. Jim

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[33fromSD]

Hey Earl...yeah, I'll take some measurements of the hole location tomorrow and post them. Jim

Hi Earl

See pics for measurements of the windshield wiper motor shaft hole in the windshield frame. If they are not clear let me know. By the way, the angle is tough to measure but if I'd have to guess I was at about 45 degrees to the body and 90 degree to the windshield.

Also as a disclaimer, this is for the roadster (convertible) windshield only, I don't have a hard top so I don't know if the same measurements would apply or not.

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[Shades]

Thanks, that pic helps. I'll have the hardtop so softer than aluminum, as well as AC in there. I've got plenty of time but will need wipers (or at least one, not sure if I need two).

[33fromSD]

Not pics today. I just spent the whole day routing wires, shortening / lengthening wires, and general wire harness clean up. Amazing how many wires can be removed from the harness after all is said and done.

I just have the heater / defroster left on the inside, the gauge cluster, headlight switch, ignition switch, dimmer switch, wiper switch and radio are all wired to final length. On the outside I have the headlights, tail lights an backup lights to do final length / routing on, then I'll do a systems check. All should work fine since I labeled everything before I removed components after go-karting but you just never know.

I actually thought it was going to be a royal PITA with the day spent laying under the dash in cramped quarters but the access holes in the cowls worked out great, I could get everything from those two holes and for future repair / maintenance, all the connectors, cable ties and clamps are accessible through the cowl access holes now.

[narly1]

Thanks a million for the wiper hole location details.

I am putting that info into my back pocket for when my time comes.

[e36m3]

Thanks for the wiper info, very nicely done!

[Dduty]

Not pics today. I just spent the whole day routing wires, shortening / lengthening wires, and general wire harness clean up. Amazing how many wires can be removed from the harness after all is said and done.

I just have the heater / defroster left on the inside, the gauge cluster, headlight switch, ignition switch, dimmer switch, wiper switch and radio are all wired to final length. On the outside I have the headlights, tail lights an backup lights to do final length / routing on, then I'll do a systems check. All should work fine since I labeled everything before I removed componentsi after go-karting but you just never know.

I actually thought it was going to be a royal PITA with the day spent laying under the dash in cramped quarters but the access holes in the cowls worked out great, I could get everything from those two holes and for future repair / maintenance, all the connectors, cable ties and clamps are accessible through the cowl access holes now.

I’m just starting to sort out the wiring. I have body work and paint done and trying to do everything I can before remounting the body.
I need the measurement from the floor to the underside of the dash near the steering column. Thanks in advance.

[j33ptj]

Hi Earl

See pics for measurements of the windshield wiper motor shaft hole in the windshield frame. If they are not clear let me know. By the way, the angle is tough to measure but if I'd have to guess I was at about 45 degrees to the body and 90 degree to the windshield.

Also as a disclaimer, this is for the roadster (convertible) windshield only, I don't have a hard top so I don't know if the same measurements would apply or not.

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Did you make any wiper profile on the windshield to see how it clears it? the swept area?

RJ

[33fromSD]

Did you make any wiper profile on the windshield to see how it clears it? the swept area?

RJ

Yes, I ran the wiper to verify the sweep area. It's basically in line with right side of the steering wheel (sitting in the car) and sweeps all the way to the windshield frame on the left (sitting in the car). While not ideal for a daily driver, especially only being one wiper, it will suffice for a rare off-chance I get caught in the rain. It provides the vision the driver needs.

[33fromSD]

Ventiports arrived yesterday and I got them installed in the side covers last night....just the look I was going for

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[e36m3]

Hi Jim,

Where did you buy your battery tray from?

[33fromSD]

Hi Jim,

Where did you buy your battery tray from?

Edge Auto Sports

https://edgeautosport.com/shop?searc...y=MS6-BTRY-Box

[e36m3]

Edge Auto Sports

https://edgeautosport.com/shop?searc...y=MS6-BTRY-Box

Thanks!

Andy

[33fromSD]

Interior all wired, all tested good. For whatever the reason, I could not stand having a blank panel behind the steering wheel so I added an electric clock which matches pretty close to the FFR gauge cluster

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Moved to the wiring in the trunk next....mounted the tail lights and installed the backup lights I found.

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Still need to route all the wires and hook them up, done for today though, as I need to pick up my daughter from the ski hill.

Jim

[JimLev]

I added the same Autometer clock and a engine oil temp gauge.

[33fromSD]

I added the same Autometer clock and a engine oil temp gauge.

That's too funny....I was thinking really hard about the oil temp gauge as well but then figured it's just a base 302 so no real need.....

Clock has been running now for 4 hours and the time is dead on...so far I'm pretty impressed.

Jim

[JimLev]

Mine has been running for 6+ months, dead on too.
I got the oil temp gauge (red needle) from FFR years ago when I lived in MA.
They have a yearly open house and cookout (just not last year) with lots of part for sale cheap.
I got the gauge, sender, and fittings for $5. At the time I didn't have a hotrod but it was too good a deal to pass up.

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[33fromSD]

Mine has been running for 6+ months, dead on too.
I got the oil temp gauge (red needle) from FFR years ago when I lived in MA.
They have a yearly open house and cookout (just not last year) with lots of part for sale cheap.
I got the gauge, sender, and fittings for $5. At the time I didn't have a hotrod but it was too good a deal to pass up.

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Nice set up...love it. Jim

[33fromSD]

Trunk wiring done, all lights (brake lights, hazards, turn signals & reverse lights) work.

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Prewired a 3rd brake light wire if I can find a style I like

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Also riveted in the upper trunk access panels

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Screwed in the cowl access panels

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Just need to install the lower truck access panel and mount the new 32-34 Trunk Handle / Latch and the rear of the car mechanical / electrical will be done.

[33fromSD]

Since we have Monday off for President's Day at work I decided to take a 5 day weekend to get some stuff done on the 33 HR but also my 55 F100. Spent part of the day on the 33 today.

Installed the lower trunk access panel, and then routed my battery tender cable out the side of the trunk on the driver's side.

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Like JimLev, I ditched my cable latch since I just could get it to latch how I wanted and went with a trunk handle. Worked out really well, I modified the existing bracket (still need to clean that up some) but there is no up or down play in the lid when latched. How I have it set up, it's tight to the seal. For the latch I decided to use self tapping screws into the aluminum on the lid verses riv-nuts, just not a fan of them.

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Earlier this week, I ordered a 3rd brake light and suicide door safety pin latches from Watson Streetworks. The suicide door safety latches arrived today so I also got them installed. I did not wire them yet, nor do I think I will, I shouldn't need a light in the dash or buzzer to remind me to latch them.

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3rd brake light is supposed to be here tomorrow or Saturday, so I'll install that then.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Headlights mounted.... turned out good. All functional too which completes all my final routing / wring (except for the 3rd brake light, still waiting on that to arrive)....just a couple odds and ends left (striker plates and reinstalling the lower radiator hose / filling coolant system), then on to final body work. I am completely out of parts from the delivered kit after I install the striker plates.

Big Milestone ..... From bare frame and 32 boxes of parts to car fully assembled / go-Karted / body panels installed / final wiring in 4 months, 18 days from receiving Kit (delivered on 9/25)

Mounting the Headlights / routed wiring
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Daytime Running lights:
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Low Beams / High Beams:
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Signal Lights:
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Jim

[33fromSD]

Lucy...we gots a problem here....Apparently I'm not installing the striker plates today ...... As many of you have had an issue too, they are the wrongs ones or made wrong for the new Gen2 kit ....I sent David at FFR an email with all the pics, I'll wait to hear from him...no biggie, this doesn't stop me from doing other things (finishing up coolant system).

By the way, the photos on the inside of the car are "mirror images" in case you're looking at them and thinking these look odd, I needed to use the selfie mode on my camera because it was such a weird angle I couldn't hold the bracket and take the the pic in the normal camera mode.

You can see the doors align really nice so it's not the doors or striker positioning.

Driver's side (**Reminder** inside pics are mirror images)
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Passenger side (**Reminder** inside pics are mirror images)
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Jim