All,
In reviewing the Factory Five manual (both complete kit and basic kit) for installing the Accelerator Cable I'm not sure what to cut and how to attached the cable to the pedal?
The plastic piece is used to hold the cable end in place on the throttle pedal arm. It acts somewhat like a washer. You cut a slit in it, and slide the cable through it. It stops the barrel from pulling through the small opening on the throttle pedal arm.
You cut the #1 end as you predicted. The cable is held in place by a set screw, on the throttle body attachment. The small barrel is discarded.
Before cutting the cable, adjust the cable length to be sure that when the throttle pedal is fully depressed, the throttle body lever is at WOT (wide open throttle). Many builders add a throttle stop behind the pedal arm, to prevent pushing the pedal moving to far forward, and stressing the cable, and/or bending the throttle body lever. The cable could break, or the barrel may even pull through the plastic piece from to much pressure. Also, make sure you adjust the cable length to allow for the throttle body lever to return to the idle position.
I've been using the original cable for over ten tears, with a Russ Thompson pedal, with no issues.
FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010
Do yourself a favor and get a reliable throttle cable. I initially installed the kit-provided cable and attached it to the pedal with the ball swivel provided. The cable popped out of the connector almost immediately. I opted to spend a few dollars and ordered this:
Much better quality and no fears of the cable coming off the pedal. Yes, many are using the kit-supplied cable with no issues, but I wasn't comfortable with it.
This is what the Lokar cable looks like on the pedal side:
FFR #8305; IRS, 347; T5 Trans; EFI, 3.27 Rear; 17x9" Front; 17x10.5" Rear
Paint - Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray (J7) with Black Stripes; Painted by "da Bat"
Complete Kit Delivered 05/15/2014; Titled and Registered 4/14/2017 as a 1965!!
FFR MKIV ordered 12 July 2019. IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Wheels w/MT tires, power steering, EFI, Heat. 347 Dart w/TKO-600 by Mike Forte, Holley FI, MSD coil and CD box. All new, no donor build.
You have the loose parts at the wrong ends of the cable except for the spring. The square plastic plug goes in the accelerator pedal and creates a pocket for the ball on the end of the cable to sit in. The other end gets cut off and inserted into the cable end adapter you circled in red at #1. The set screw tightens onto the cable. The cable has to be cleanly cut in order to be inserted into the adapter. I found that wrapping the cable tightly with tape and cutting through the tape with a Dremel tool cut off wheel does a nice job.
HTH
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
This all makes perfect sense (I haven't cut mine yet so it's in a huge loop around the distributor) but the outer sleeve only needs to be around 12-15" long on the hot rod. Right? Super short.
Both ends of the outer sleeve have crimped ends. What are people doing there?
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Originally Posted by swwebb
