One interesting thing about sitting in seats with belts.. now I need to rethink where the switches are going to be because no way I'm reaching the dash with the belts on!! Everything needs to be a lot closer
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
One interesting thing about sitting in seats with belts.. now I need to rethink where the switches are going to be because no way I'm reaching the dash with the belts on!! Everything needs to be a lot closer
Maybe retractable three point belt would be better....
I found out early on that I can't reach the emergency brake either with the belt on! Kinda dumb having to release the emergency brake before strapping in...
Steve
I can't either. One of my biggest worries as my real brakes haven't felt 100% right. I like the 5 point so immtrying to figure out how to make a reach attachment that doesnt look terrible....
Maybe but I think it would be quite annoying on the right leg. Remember the footbox isn't roomy so the gas pedal can't be pushed left, too close to the brake already...
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
Maybe but I think it would be quite annoying on the right leg. Remember the footbox isn't roomy so the gas pedal can't be pushed left, too close to the brake already...
Haha there’s room for it on the left (and it’s under your leg which is bent), but you still can’t reach it there either! It has to be up on center console to be useful while wearing belt.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I moved the handbrake up onto the console. Seems that it'll work just fine up there, and is right where you want it. I'll shorten the cable abut a foot and tidy up the fitting to make it smaller (always seemed clumsy the factory option) - ordered some crimps and thimbles.
The front bolt goes through steel hoop, and the rear will be reinforced when I add the aluminum angle to build the higher level of the console with glovebox and cupholders, etc. I'll just build it around the handbrake now.
I expected to hate the transmission tunnel after hearing stories of bad fitment and cramped footwells, but perhaps Gen2 'glass has improved here too - the driver's footwell is not symmetrical and has 2+ inches space to the right of the throttle pedal. Which looks perfect for me - I like my foot to rest against that wall. And it fits great against the firewall and chassis. I cut a couple inches out the width to pull the passenger side in a little too, and just leave enough to rivet to the aluminum.
It was way too long though.. look where the pen is. This is where the hoop is and the end of the aluminum. I'll have to cut off some of this since it gets in the way of the new handbrake location. No worries though, I'm still building an aluminum console on top of all this.
I got the crimps and thimbles to shorten the handbrake cable, and I wanted to simplify it a little so I re-tapped a 1/4-20 thread into the rod end and used an eye that I had lying in the parts bin.
The rear of the handbrake does generate a fair amount of force, so I added some angle-iron to support it rather than aluminum. I wanted an angle here anyway - this will form one edge of the glovebox above it.
I'm liking the idea of moving the hand brake more and more. I just have to see how I can fit it in with my (planned) center console. Thanks for the inspiration! Keith HR #894
I'm liking the idea of moving the hand brake more and more. I just have to see how I can fit it in with my (planned) center console. Thanks for the inspiration! Keith HR #894
Now that it’s working I’m looking forward to playing around with some cardboard today to see how it works out!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I played around with some cardboard today to see if my plan/hope would work out. I wanted cupholders behind the gearstick, and the glovebox/elbow rest to still be usable with the handbrake in its new position. After mocking this up there are a few changes I'll make, but I'm happy with how it worked out.
I threw the seat back in to see how it really feels, and I love that the handbrake is now right at hand. The gear stick and cupholders are perfect, and the elbow rest / glove box lid is now 6 inches higher and perfect height.
One thing I'll change though - now I'm sitting here I noticed that the handbrake is still higher than the cupholders so I have a lot of room to come closer to the handbrake - see below. I'll be moving that whole wall at least and inch over towards the passenger side, giving way more room for the cupholders (and easier to fabricate).
I bent up some aluminum sheet to fit around handbrake and create a 'glove box', then started on making the next panel up that contains cupholders and gearstick. I bought a bunch of aluminum angle and strips to strengthen up the corners and edges - I want to be able to lean on it when I'm getting in.
Nice work, RR. Looking at the brochures before I ordered my kit, the one thing that I didn't like about the car was the placement of the park brake. I had an inspiration one day at work when I found a leftover wiper motor and gearcase assembly for a caterpillar loader. I'm going to try to use it under the car to pull the cables and operate it with a rocker switch. Not sure if it will produce enough torque for the job, but it would sure help unclutter the inside of the car.
Nice work, RR. Looking at the brochures before I ordered my kit, the one thing that I didn't like about the car was the placement of the park brake. I had an inspiration one day at work when I found a leftover wiper motor and gearcase assembly for a caterpillar loader. I'm going to try to use it under the car to pull the cables and operate it with a rocker switch. Not sure if it will produce enough torque for the job, but it would sure help unclutter the inside of the car.
Sounds a fun project - building your own estopp (think that’s what they’re called). For this car I’m trying to minimize failure points (computers, sensors etc) and keeping everything as manual as I can.. so I discounted estopp for that reason.. when I need a handbrake I REALLY need it.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I was so pleased with this new version of the console (second version of a piece I made yesterday), with returns on the sides. Turned out great even though I couldn't use the brake for any of the bends.
Works great around the handbrake. I can make up the sides next, but I'll wait until body is on again before figuring out the front-most piece that goes up to meet the dash. I've been wiggling my fingers out in front of gear stick with belts on and I think I can reach switches on that part.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Works great around the handbrake. I can make up the sides next, but I'll wait until body is on again before figuring out the front-most piece that goes up to meet the dash. I've been wiggling my fingers out in front of gear stick with belts on and I think I can reach switches on that part.
Nice layout, I would suggest you soften the edge as it will dig into the side of your right leg, I know, mine does and wish i had a good 1" radius on it. You will notice it cruising down the highway more than anything. consule24-marked up.jpg 20200622_193837.jpg Mine, similar but maybe a bit wider than yours
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
Nice layout, I would suggest you soften the edge as it will dig into the side of your right leg, I know, mine does and wish i had a good 1" radius on it. You will notice it cruising down the highway more than anything.
Mine, similar but maybe a bit wider than yours
Yeah, I understand. I'm expecting that area to be built up a lot, like a big triangle will go there. But I totally get what you're saying, thanks!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Only got a few hours this afternoon in the garage - (out for fish and chips tonight at a local pub - a taste of home!) - but I made up and trial fit the worst of the side panels. I've decided to just chuck the 'glass trans tunnel and run aluminum all the way to the bulkhead. I wanted to minimize the joints, so I had to think hard about how to make the cuts and bends
The angle of the sheet under the handbrake matches the angle of the handbrake when off.
The large square is just there until I fit the body and can work out the angle of the sheet up to the dashboard.
Spent the time at the weekend re-wiring some stuff and tidying up.
Ran a new positive battery cable that was a foot longer so it could go a better route
Replaced my temp autostore gauges with the FFR ones, which needed different sensors fitted
Finished off my battery disconnect switch
Moved the earth lead to a side chassis member in trunk - my first choice above fuel tank interfered with body
Removed the heater so I could re-route parts of wiring loom
re-wired distributor wires so they could go through unused fittings in one of the connectors (not really sure why these two wires didn't go through a connector)
Replaced ignition key switch with new Jegs 11001 switch - super simple
Then cut the dashboard to fit gauges in a slightly different layout - the stock layout meant one of the small gauges was hidden behind the steering wheel for me.
Did all the lamp, ground and positive feed wiring on the gauges
Went back out in the evening and chose the green lighting option
There were a couple problems.. first the oil pressure sender worked when I first fit it, but later on after all the dash work it doesn't work. No signal coming off the sensor at all.
Also only half the lamps light up, so I'll be looking at the bulbs and checking with voltmeter later.
I also decided to remove the Vintage Air heater controls from the cheesy plastic case, and cut them into my aluminum panel, so I bought a decal set from summit
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
Two more weekends doing nothing but wiring - I love wiring (seriously)! I love how you can make everything neat and tidy, crimped, soldered, shrinked, tie wrapped, taped and in conduit.
A lot of "final" (ha!) finishing on dashboard, all wired and working. Fitted the headlights which meant final fit of grill. Headlights went together easily although wiring colors have changed again - many threads here have different colors. Still, a 9v battery made it easy to figure out. I didn't want DRL, so simple wiring. Tidied up the wiring underfloor when I connected up the speedo feed and neutral switch on TKO.
I was amazed at the headlights. In the day that silly little LED looked like nothing. But at night I opened the garage door and the lights lit up every house for 200yds. Pretty amazing. I test-wired the rear lights and they worked the first time too - again very bright LED's!
Moved a lot of wiring around, tucked up behind the heater and worked out how to reduce the rat's nest.. some is attached to the chassis on the right out of the way (but accessible for when I add a wiper in hardtop).
Next I finished up the steering column. I noticed some wobble in the indicator stalk (I'm not using some parts since I swapped to a quick-release setup), so I added a water pump spacer which was perfect fit, and allows me to hold the white plastic perfectly in place. I had a roller bearing in the parts bin to reduce the drag. Works a charm.
Finally I spent som time playing with designs for the lower switch panel below the dash. Then made it up and test-fitted everything. There will be a lightning charger cable coming up under the phone, and a cigarette lighter hidden away around the passenger side. I used an offroad bicycle phone holder, since they are all aluminum and bolt-on and designed for offroad use so hopefully will work ok in this bumpy environment
Now I can finally finish off the trans tunnel and (I think) that's the last thing before the body goes on.
Just something to think about and only my opinion (and I will preface by saying I have an Iphone)...what I have found is that with the top off on the car, the cell phone use for music control or navigation is almost impossible. Almost the only time the screen is viewable is when the sun is in front of you. There are many times my phone has shut down because of heat, but mainly the screen is just unviewable. And to be honest there are even times where the screen on my Media Player is extremely difficult to view. For the most part I can manage, but there have been a couple times sneaking in to some of these smaller towns for car shows that I have really needed the Nav (or a map) and I have actually had to stop under a bridge or pull off at a gas station to figure out where I was.
33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/
Haven't had many hours this weekend, but I did get a chance to make up the front top and passenger sides of the tunnel. Pretty tricky shapes, but good to get out the way. I also cut out the side panel and will make that easily removable (either dzus or screws) so I can get at the wires from the side.
hey all, what do you think of my idea of using fender welting (not sure if that's the American word) under my aluminum transmission cover, rather than silicone? My thoughts were that I could get a watertight seal using this (perhaps still silicone on one side of the welting), but make the tunnel more easily removable if needed. I'd still rivet.
Last weekend I started putting the aluminum together, riveting and caulking. Added some aluminum flat bar around top of glove box and made it all very stiff and strong. You can use any of the aluminum to lean on when getting in/out seats.
Today I had a break and worked on the bodywork in the yard cos I was babysitting puppy that couldn't safely be in garage, so I cut out pedal box panels, exhaust exits and fitted taillights. Also cut back some firewall and sill 'glass to make it fit better.
On the last day of the 4 days off, I managed to get the body back on and mocked up to start figuring out where this thing goes on the chassis. Hilarious really because everything moves and the only fixed point is the firewall. In the end, I decided on a spot and drilled the holes at the back for the bolts - it's officially attached!
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Originally Posted by RoadRacer
One interesting thing about sitting in seats with belts.. now I need to rethink where the switches are going to be because no way I'm reaching the dash with the belts on!! Everything needs to be a lot closer
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