Fmans Dart 427 build #9818 - 14" Leather steering wheel

[edwardb]

That tape definitely might be an option....

I think I am going to have to go with a countersunk head and taper the hole. Looking back I wish I would have went with a .090 thicker dash, it would make it much easier to countersink a hole with more material to work with. I will be disappointed if you can see any of the rivet/screw head once the dash is covered. Starting over at this point would be my last resort I have at least a couple full days of work into my dash. I've enjoyed the process but it definitely has been very time consuming and slow going.

If anyone has an idea for a good countersunk screw head please post it up. I am going to order a few of these that Edwardb recommended and see if I can make them work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90729A112/

As I said in my PM, anything other than dead flat will show through. Tape may spread it out, but it will still show. Don't do it. Those 6-32's will work. So would 4-40's. Surprised you didn't find them at your local hardware. Mine has those sizes all day long. I also like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/97530A097/. I also routinely use plane old solid aluminum rivets and pound them with a hammer against a solid surface like a small anvil. Low tech but works really well. The aluminum is quite soft and bucks easily. https://www.mcmaster.com/97483A075/. The thickness of the material is fine. Don't feel like you have to bury the head of the screw (or rivet). Do the best you can. As long as it's holding against the tapered countersink, it's not going anywhere. One installed, whatever remains above file or sand flush. Those brackets are mainly holding in shear (up/down) versus normal stress. With three per and 6 brackets (!!!) you will be OK with a reasonable mechanical attachment.