I am enjoying watching this build come along. I am curious about the Boyd Tank, it looks great tucked up in the frame. Would you have any pics from the back at level of the tank, and from the side, just to see how low is sits in relation to the frame. Would be much appreciated as I was considering a Boyd tank for my build when I get to that point as my plans include the 390 and the extra fuel capacity would be a big bonus.
Great Build!!
Thanks!!
Cheers,
Achi
Mark IV FFR 7993 picked up March 30, 2013
Pin drive IRS, 390FE, Smiths gauges. going to be a long slow build.
I was thinking the same thing when looking at the pics. No access to those cap bolts once everything's together. Obviously hope to not have to drop the tank. But it could happen. I'd consider just making them permanent, e.g. a tack weld to the frame. Or some other method making access to the top unnecessary. One other suggestion. You may want to just cut off those rear tank strap tabs. Especially the RH side where they protrude into the trunk.
yep, i'm trying to determine how to match the paint color if i cut the trunk tabs off...
Originally Posted by achi
Hi Todd,
I am enjoying watching this build come along. I am curious about the Boyd Tank, it looks great tucked up in the frame. Would you have any pics from the back at level of the tank, and from the side, just to see how low is sits in relation to the frame. Would be much appreciated as I was considering a Boyd tank for my build when I get to that point as my plans include the 390 and the extra fuel capacity would be a big bonus.
Great Build!!
as you can see I could have put the rear tab 'above' the rear chassis rail and moved the tank up 3/4" overall - and there is room to do that - but I also have about 2" of depth from the top of the trunk bars to the top of the tank - so I can do some drop trunk magic - if nothing else it will keep some smaller things from rolling all around the trunk
I noticed in your latest pic that you have a rag stuffed in the inlet. I did that also the baggie thing but did you
know that a black ABS rubber cap fits perfect. I didn't trust my self that something wouldn't fall in. You don't
need to use the clamp just the cap. Don't mean to pick on your build I enjoy your buildmanship just looking
out for you.
I noticed in your latest pic that you have a rag stuffed in the inlet. I did that also the baggie thing but did you
know that a black ABS rubber cap fits perfect. I didn't trust my self that something wouldn't fall in. You don't
need to use the clamp just the cap. Don't mean to pick on your build I enjoy your buildmanship just looking
out for you.
yeah, I hear you - I forgot to keep the cap covers that Boyd shipped with the tank - so I improvise, will probably find a cap like you stated to be a little more sturdy
edit: ok - i cheaped out and just used some tape IMG_0627.jpg
yep, i'm trying to determine how to match the paint color if i cut the trunk tabs off...
LH side is 100% covered by the trunk aluminum. Impossible to see once everything is together. You will need to add a small patch piece on the aluminum. RH side would still be visible, but only from the bottom and behind the tank. I'm as anal as anyone, but any color even close will be unnoticeable IMO. I may have posted this before. But https://www.lvppaints.com/ will provide paint that matches your powder coat. Used them on my 20th Anniversary build and it's excellent. They can match if you know the exact powder coat mfg and color. Or they can match to a physical sample.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Sorry to bother you but I just checked my frame to tank clearance.
I have 1 3/4 tight or about 1 1/2 deep area for cubby.
Did you look at the upper trunk area between the diff and the tank?
I don't know who to give credit to but some one took that space for storage.
There is at least 7in deep and over 24in wide. Could also be larger with a
stepped bottom. Don't know where your battery is going, I going up front
with Breeze tray.
The new powder coat color is growing on me.
Thank you for sharing your build with us.
LH side is 100% covered by the trunk aluminum. Impossible to see once everything is together. You will need to add a small patch piece on the aluminum. RH side would still be visible, but only from the bottom and behind the tank. I'm as anal as anyone, but any color even close will be unnoticeable IMO. I may have posted this before. But https://www.lvppaints.com/ will provide paint that matches your powder coat. Used them on my 20th Anniversary build and it's excellent. They can match if you know the exact powder coat mfg and color. Or they can match to a physical sample.
Sorry to bother you but I just checked my frame to tank clearance.
I have 1 3/4 tight or about 1 1/2 deep area for cubby. Did you look at the upper trunk area between the diff and the tank?
I don't know who to give credit to but some one took that space for storage. There is at least 7in deep and over 24in wide. Could also be larger with a
stepped bottom. Don't know where your battery is going, I going up front with Breeze tray. The new powder coat color is growing on me.
Thank you for sharing your build with us.
I have the breeze battery tray as well, its at the powder coater - just doing black to match the engine bay.
Yes, there is a lot of 'air space' behind the tank and back wall - my one friend opened that whole section above the rear seats and it's rather spacious.
Another idea is to mount the estopp system in there - like JohnK did https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post415574
Toadster,
I too, am in Folsom, and have also placed an order for A Mk4 Roadster from FFR.
will you send me an email to Rat2274@msn.com and I will share more details.
I would love to talk builds with you.
Rat2274
Toadster,
I too, am in Folsom, and have also placed an order for A Mk4 Roadster from FFR.
will you send me an email to Rat2274@msn.com and I will share more details.
I would love to talk builds with you.
Rat2274
it's been a long couple of weeks, lots of 'work' getting in the way of the car- but that's life!
I started pulling together the radiator setup, and it takes a decent amount of prep-work to get things together.
Since I'm using the Breeze radiator shroud, upper hinge and lower mount there is one small adjustment needed - trimming the 3/4" segments that are connected to the upper 3/4" cross-bar
since the bronze color is unique on this frame, I tried to match it closely - not that it will really ever be seen. upon initial spray it looks 'close' but when you overlay it on top - it's still too light...
not something I want to spend $120 minimum on for color matched paint... at least it's protected
got late last night, so I was able to line things up and clamp into place - still need the lower mount installed and adjust to 58-degrees (will be using the replicaparts radiator panel)
cleaned up a few items yesterday that have been putting off...
installed more Thermo-Tec on the FF Metal firewall, maybe overkill but would be impossible later without a teardown...
will definitely be buying a few more rolls of this stuff to get everything covered, 2 rolls isn't nearly enough
my ABS sensors (Motorcraft BRAB-406) arrived after I had the rear brakes installed, and those sensors are long and too stiff to place (see 1st pic) with the rear bracket installed
had to undo the parking brake, rotor, caliper and loosen the bracket to install (I'm getting good at rebuilding!) you can see in the 3rd pic below how the bracket and wire are aligned, hence he teardown/rebuild IMG_0792.jpgIMG_0791.jpgIMG_0793.jpg
Next was to installed the breeze battery tray. I love Mike's stuff but I wasn't too keen on screwing a bolt into the 4" rail with no backing, so I opted to install an M8 nutsert instead
This was a funny story as I started getting the holes prepped and the one closest to the side is pretty tight and as I was compressing the nutsert, I was stuck against either the cross-bar or the jack stand
Hence, I had to jack the car up, replace the jack stand further back and then proceed... I nutsert was mangled in this process but once reset; the new one fit great!
This battery tray isn't going anywhere! and BTW if you don't have an air-rivet gun - GET ONE, seriously it's so effortless to set and shoot rivets!
next up will most likely be to drill out the rest of my sheetmetal, waiting for my rivet-fan to arrive so I can lay out better lines!
Nice work so far. I can tell you that 4 rolls of the Thermo-Tec will do the entire cockpit and then some. However, you have to use your big scrap prices too.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
Nice work so far. I can tell you that 4 rolls of the Thermo-Tec will do the entire cockpit and then some. However, you have to use your big scrap prices too.
Thanks! That's what I've realized as well. Can't really over-do it with this stuff it lays out so easily and yes, I use all my scraps in all the places you never will see
Made more progress today on the driver footbox. Initially i was a bit puzzled on the kick-out panel, but Travis (Fman) helped with some pics of his setup
One of the issues of the 25th anniversary car is that the panels didn't come pre-staged on the chassis, just 2 boxes of panels and lots of guesswork!
I have to say, whoever developed clecos - I pray he's a rich man, because these things are awesome! I can't imagine building without them to be honest!
overall, pretty happy with the progress... it was 88F in the garage and that was with my portable A/C blasting - better than the 102F outside for sure!
I'll most likely keep things cleco'ed in place until I know I'm done working around that section...
still need to figure out the mini drop trunk ideas and will have to change the locations for the pump and sender holes as well
My brother came down to visit and we drilled, sanded, clear coated and riveted panels for three days. We had a good time working together and the time flew by, but man, was I happy to have had help on that project. Your project is looking good!
-Steve
I have to say, whoever developed clecos - I pray he's a rich man, because these things are awesome! I can't imagine building without them to be honest!
Toadster,
I’m also a big fan of cleco’s, which are totally ingenious, and I wondered who actually invented them. Apparently, the “cleco” tool was originally commercialized the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company. So, Cleveland . . . Co . . . = “CLECO.” I imagine this tool really came in handy for aircraft production during WWII.
The Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company filed a patent in 1941 for this tool, which looks a lot like a cleco tool: https://patents.google.com/patent/US...=2%2c328%2c866
If we are to give these inventors full credit for the cleco, then that credit belongs to Paul Van Sittert and Andrew J. Lev, who were employees of the Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Co. at the outbreak of WWII.
I would note, however, that a French citizen, Mr. Jean J. Blanc, invented something strikingly similar in 1936: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2328866?oq=2136875
I’ll leave it to historians to figure out who the “true” cleco inventor is. But I agree it’s a great tool!
BTW, I'm a patent attorney, hence my weird obsession with who invented what.
MKIV Complete Kit #9822 l BluePrint 347 EFI l TKO600 l Power Steering l Heater/Defrost l Build Thread
initial cut was with tin snips LOL - yeah that wasn't good
2nd cut was with a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade - if the ends are taped up good - it's not a bad solution
3rd cut was with a dremel and cutoff wheel - was easy but dusty!
I spent what seemed like an eternity drilling holes. When I finally finished I spent an entire afternoon with the shop vac cleaning the garage. I'm so glad that phase is over.
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
initial cut was with tin snips LOL - yeah that wasn't good
2nd cut was with a hacksaw with a fine tooth blade - if the ends are taped up good - it's not a bad solution
3rd cut was with a dremel and cutoff wheel - was easy but dusty!
2ft done, about 12 more to go!
Todd, would you mind to put some links on what you ordered from Summit? (fuel filter, fittings, amount of line) I notice you have some type of jig/wrench to attach the -AN fittings? I am going to latch on to your fuel line solutions, assuming you are going to run the Fragola lines all way to engine with no hard lines?
Hahaha. Yeah, I got a good chuckle off that! How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? That silly but very pondering commercial we all loved. It's time that we update it.
Mr Todd, how many holes drilled to the completion of one's dream? I'm starting to think the builder might not know either, since I've already lost count myself. So, I guess it is true?! The world may never know...
Build is looking good and you're way ahead of me. Keep at it!
Hahaha. Yeah, I got a good chuckle off that! How many licks to the center of a tootsie pop? That silly but very pondering commercial we all loved. It's time that we update it.
Mr Todd, how many holes drilled to the completion of one's dream? I'm starting to think the builder might not know either, since I've already lost count myself. So, I guess it is true?! The world may never know...
Build is looking good and you're way ahead of me. Keep at it!
Dj
Thanks Dj! LOL, yeah there is SO much more to drill!!!
Originally Posted by Fman
Todd, would you mind to put some links on what you ordered from Summit? (fuel filter, fittings, amount of line) I notice you have some type of jig/wrench to attach the -AN fittings? I am going to latch on to your fuel line solutions, assuming you are going to run the Fragola lines all way to engine with no hard lines?
Keep 'er up! Builds looking great!
Do you have a link for the fuel filter? I like your style you are using much better, assuming it would work fine with my 427/EFI setup as well?
The Aeromotive setup I have is nice, it's a bit tight though, will have to disconnect both ends and push the filter up to unmount
the 10 micron is perfect for EFI setup
finally pulled the trigger on the Wilwood EPBs, I got a better deal going through Jegs, versus Summit Racing as Jegs has a $30 off over $750 deal and the taxes were about 1/2 of Summit Racing... came to just over $1k
in typical guy fashion, no directions - and I lined up the caliper and sighed, awww crud they interact with the springs
so, I prayed the directions would tell me differently...
EPB CALIPER - Mount the EPB calipers per the installation instructions included with your specific Wilwood brake kit, reference
Figure 3. EPB calipers are left and right handed, however they can be used on either side of the vehicle to best suit your specific application.
here's both sides mounted - the new EPB calipers have 'wilwood' printed on them where the regular ones were blank... driver-mounted.jpgpassenger-mounted.jpg
sorry for all the dust, shows you how much ash got into the garage the past few weeks with all the CA fires this month...
That's awesome! Thanks for being the trailblazer on that. Definitely looks like an easier and cleaner install than the E-Stopp, and by the time I factor in what I spent to make my custom mounting tray and custom parking brake cables for the E-Stopp, the Wilwoods aren't that much more expensive. What else did they come with in the way of a controller, switch, etc?
The smoke and ash was also pretty bad here in the Bay Area the last couple of weeks. It's only been in the last couple of days that we've started getting good air quality again. All the cars are covered in ash, but I'm reluctant to wash them because that will guarantee another round of smoke and ash.
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
That's awesome! Thanks for being the trailblazer on that. Definitely looks like an easier and cleaner install than the E-Stopp, and by the time I factor in what I spent to make my custom mounting tray and custom parking brake cables for the E-Stopp, the Wilwoods aren't that much more expensive. What else did they come with in the way of a controller, switch, etc?
The smoke and ash was also pretty bad here in the Bay Area the last couple of weeks. It's only been in the last couple of days that we've started getting good air quality again. All the cars are covered in ash, but I'm reluctant to wash them because that will guarantee another round of smoke and ash.
my son stopped over last night and we tackled the front ABS sensors which has been bugging me for a while
The Russ Thompson ABS brackets are designed for the '95 ABS sensors but I have the '07-09 GT500 ABS setup so different sensors Motorcraft BRAB-290
thankfully my son has better vision than me (LOL) and noticed that @johngeorge had drilled some new holes for these sensors!
we pulled the ABS brackets and drilled a few holes and now the sensors are perfect!
I ordered a bracket for my HCU since mine came without one - but I can't complain, the GT500 HCU was $15, and I found the bracket for $20 shipped LOL
Next I'll be mounting the brake reservoirs and figuring out the placement of the HCU to run the brake lines.
I drilled out and set my Earl's dual line mounts, and got to the Fragola AN6 straight fittings...
In order to mount the fittings, I had to get longer socket-head 1/4-20 screws - they fit perfectly into the frame!
I also got the Fragola Hose Pressure Kit to test for air leaks, and I think both ends need re-doing...
Yes, I need to get new olives since these are a 1 time use thing...
Earl's 1/2" Hose & Tubing Separator Black https://amzn.to/3rfkQ04 Earl's Performance AN to Straight Cut O-Ring Fittings AT949006ERL https://amzn.to/3p73SPz
1/4-20 x 7/8" Socket Head Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread https://amzn.to/34taK24 Fragola FRG900666 Size (-6) Individual Hose Pressure Test Kit https://amzn.to/3atQOj9
Todd, I found when using these AN fittings you need to push the olive flush against the vice to bottom them out on the hose before tightening down and using lube on the threads is a big help aiding in tightening them down. I also trimmed a little off the steel braid back around the olive nut before tightening them. Have you tried to tighten those fittings a little more before pulling them apart? Sometimes they need just a little more to complete the seal.
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Originally Posted by edwardb
