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Thread: Front lower control arm binding against mount

  1. #1
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    Front lower control arm binding against mount

    I have an email off to FFR about this, but while waiting for a response from them, I was curious to see if anyone else has run into this issue and what was done to fix it.

    We just started our build the last few months and have been working on the front suspension. After mounting the front lower mustang control arms, I’m running into a binding issue against the control arm mounts, and it’s also close to the frame. I can’t mount the shock as it is, since the control arm won’t lower far enough.

    Is it alright to use the outer control arm mounts (I’m using 2003/2004 mustang parts)? It looks like that might provide enough room for the control arm to swing down, but the manual said the outer holes were for older mustang parts. I’ve also read on this forum that it could lead to issues with the wheels sticking too far out.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by packerbacker89; 05-14-2020 at 10:52 PM. Reason: Updated pictures

  2. #2
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    You either have to cut some metal away from the LCA, buy FFR LCAs, or use the outer holes. My old MkII has only one set of holes so hopefully someone will chime in as to whether the outer holes will work.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3

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    Just grind away a little bit of the control arm, not a big deal. You'll only need to remove about 1/8-3/16" in that one spot.

    Move the spring collar up on the shock body an inch or two. Then you can easily install the shock.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor - Retired 10/24
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
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  4. #4
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    " the manual said the outer holes were for older mustang parts"

    The control arms really don't look any different from the early year donors, IE 87-93, if that what FFR meant by older. 2003-04 Mustangs may even be considered "older" these days. I'd try the outer holes, as it looks to me, that would solve the problem.

  5. #5
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    Looks like a Fox body lower "A" arm ie pre 93, as Bill said move it to the outer holes.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Williamson View Post
    Looks like a Fox body lower "A" arm ie pre 93, as Bill said move it to the outer holes.
    David W
    He says it's a 2003/2004, which is not the same as the Fox body Mustangs. I'm sure you can't use the outer holes.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

  7. #7
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    Sorry, missed the note about 2003/4 I would do some checking before cutting them. Measure to be sure they are actually the longer 2003/4 parts and see what FFR says.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    He says it's a 2003/2004, which is not the same as the Fox body Mustangs. I'm sure you can't use the outer holes.
    Be nice if FFR clarified what constitutes older. Even the 2003-04 could be considered old, these days. 87-93 could be considered ancient..

    I see the 94 thru 2004 are the same arm being sold by manufactures, so they 87-93 must be different to some degree.
    Last edited by AC Bill; 05-16-2020 at 05:17 PM.

  9. #9
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    Here you go for clarification.
    Just clearance the arm like Bob said.
    control arm.png
    Todd Baumann
    FFR Build School Instructor 20+ Years Mott Community College
    FFR 2086 MKI, 25+ years on the road
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    Be nice if FFR clarified what constitutes older. Even the 2003-04 could be considered old, these days. 87-93 could be considered ancient..

    I see the 94 thru 2004 are the same arm being sold by manufactures, so they 87-93 must be different to some degree.
    They are, that's why the earlier models frames only had one set of holes. AND why I said "not the same as Fox body".
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

  11. #11
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    I discussed this with FFR and they don’t have a good explanation, except it somehow being due to my using Moog parts, even though they were supposed to be ‘stock’ aftermarket.

    I was afraid of messing with the strength of the arm by notching it out, so I decided not to go that route.

    It seemed like the best path forward was to get control arms directly off a mustang, or get the FFR tubular arms. I wanted my suspension parts to be at least mostly new parts, so I’m going with FFR arms.

    Thanks for the input, guys!

  12. #12
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    After getting the FFR tubular arms, installation was a breeze. I'm definitely kicking myself for not going with the tubular arms originally.

    Just a word of experience to anyone doing this in the future: If you're considering going with new Mustang front lower control arms, don't. The minor cost savings isn't worth it. When it's all calculated, the cost savings are very minor, since the FFR arms come with the ball joints and all the hardware - the hardware had cost quite a bit, since it wasn't included with the Mustang arm that I bought.

  13. #13
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    I am glad you went to the FFR arms. Another problem w/ OE arms is depending on exactly which wheels you have, often the inside edge of the wheel would rub on the front edge of the arm at full lock. Solution was again, either grind or BFH. So you get to miss that too.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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