Engine suggestions?

[David_Ingermann]

I am currently thinking about pulling the trigger on one of these, first I want to be sure about the Drivetrain combo.

Engine: previously I was considering a Blueprint 306 but i've heard bad things... anyone had a good experience? So now i'm considering a stoker. I'd like to make more Torque than Horsepower. I would think about anything from 302 to 331 and less than 400 HP/TQ. Suggestions???

Transmission: Tremek 6 spd http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Racing/39...ductId=2881627

Rear: Independent standard width

This car will see most of it's miles on the road, but will also see a few track days. Want decent streetability, and want to AVOID OVERHEATING, but still want it to feel and drive like a race car.

[R Thomas]

The push rod V-8 has a nice Fat and Flat torque curve. You might want to talk to one of the guys that builds them on a regular basis. Roush makes some nice ones but at a price that would allow you to go the Coyote route at the same price. Gordon Levy and Mike Forte both build and supply engines, spend some time on the phone with them. As to the Six Speed it virtual dictates IRS because you have no drive shaft left. The 302 push rod engines are longer than the Modular or Coyotes. I question the need for a six speed especially if it is a double overdrive, unless your going for some kind of top end speed record. These cars are so light they don't need help leaving the line they need help getting the tires to stick.

[Bob Cowan]

What he said. Call Mike Forte or Gordon Levy. Either one of them can build you exactly what you want at a good price. No cheap off shore junk there. Roush does not have the best reputation; I would avoid them.

Coyote vs. Windsor is always a tough call. Two very different animals. IMO, the Coyote is a fine engine; but wide and a bit of a tight fit. The 302 based Windsor's are an easier fit, will make the same power, and have room to grow. For simplicity, I would use the 302 based stroker.

I think a 6 speed would be really nice on the back roads. The .64 OD works really well on the highway, and keeps the rpm's reasonable while cruising at 75-80mph. But there's a 1,000 rpm drop between 4th and 5th. Having something in between would really fit well for my kind of driving. Since I have IRS, I might try to squeeze one in some time.

[edwardb]

Interesting how many new forum members, in the same position as you (thinking about a build) ask these same questions. I guess it's not surprising because there are so many choices and variables. Most (me included) will end up recommending what they've done because they've gone through a similar thought process. In the end, it ultimately comes down to what you want, how you're going to use the car, and how much you're willing to spend. You're off to a good start with a clear idea of the power you're looking for and how you plan to use the car. I'd summarize the choices as follows:

302 SBF (and stroker variants): Widely available, lots of parts availability and upgrade options, pretty good value, fits into the Mk4 very nicely, old school look and sound, can pretty easily meet your power wants. More often than not, these engines are running carbs. The right carb tuned properly will give very good results. But many struggle with this, because they got one or both things wrong. Optionally, several good EFI options exist for these engines now, including some that look almost the same as a carb setup. Maybe the best of both worlds, if that's what you want. Something to consider but there is a price bump.

351 SBF (and also stroker variants): Most of the same comments as the 302, although somewhat tighter and a few fitment issues to watch for, maybe a little fewer upgrade options at a little higher cost, but can meet your power needs without too much effort. Some discussion about the larger mains on 351 blocks and bearing speed issues in performance setups.

Mod motors including Coyote: Very tight fit, takes some specific changes to make them go in. Engine itself is much more complicated, so maybe not for DIY work/repair. More expensive to upgrade. Lots of wiring and not as old school looking. But on the upside, very reliable, good longevity, good gas mileage, nice friendly power. The Coyote option has become quite popular, makes a very nice build, and depending on what motor build you're comparing it to, can be a good value. But there are some specific steps required.

BBF: Of course the most authentic, and for some this is a deciding factor all by itself. Nothing like either the look or the sound. But heavier, pretty tight fit, can be much more expensive. Fuel economy? What's that? More than meet your power requirements though.

For me personally, I've chosen the 302 based small block approach. My first build was a slightly warmed up 306. My second I went to a DART based 347. In both cases I did alot of the engine work myself, learning as I went, which I enjoyed very much. I like how they fit into the chassis, how they look in the car, how many options there are in the marketplace, and the final result gives me all the performance I could possibly want. After my second build, I'm convinced the stroker 302 approach is nearly ideal for these cars other than the many "It's not a 427..." comments. But there's no right answer. It's what's right for you.

I personally don't have experience with the Blueprint engines. I am familiar with them though. My impression is that they're OK, but probably more suited as a replacement engine in a DD. I personally wouldn't use them in one of these builds, even though I remember them on some early Overhaulin' shows. I guess advertising dollars talk. Looking at the contents, they're pretty generic parts. Not the name brand performance stuff we seem to like. Talking to Mike Forte or Gordon Levy is good advice to get some probably better options.

Last comment, regarding the 6-speed transmission. What's your thinking with that? While several have been used, and seems only will fit an IRS build because of the shorter driveshaft, I'm personally not convinced it's necessary. First, it's expensive. Looks like a $1K or more premium. Second, looking at the final gear ratios -- 5th: 0.80 and 6th: 0.63 -- you basically have these options for 5th with either a T5 or a TKO500/600. Depending on the overall build, e.g. what engine and power your have, what final drive you use, either of these alone can be a perfectly acceptable final drive. I agree with Bob's point, that having an overdrive gear that's not such a huge drop in RPM is nice. I went with that on my Mk4 build with a 0.82 5th gear combined with a 3.27 final drive. It's a nice smooth transition from 4th to 5th, and it's now more than just a cruising highway gear. I really like it. But then I don't race the car, so overall top speed isn't a big concern for me. But the point is look at this as a whole picture, using available speed and ratio calculators. You may find a 5-speed will meet your needs. Good luck!

[edwardb]

Forget to respond to your overheating question. You or the engine? Go with the Factory Five custom Afco Racing aluminum radiator and a fan shroud and I can just about guarantee you won't have engine overheat issues assuming everything else is right. Breeze sells a nice shroud. There are others. Some guys try to use a Mustang or donor or some other universal type radiator. Often is just fine. But if you want to be sure, use the Afco piece. Fits perfectly and does a great job with any engine choice. For you and your passenger, any one of several options for insulating the cockpit and firewall will keep heat from the engine and headers under control. If you can add some type of ventilation to the footboxes, whether passive or fan driven, so much the better. We've had full insulation plus vents in both builds. Heat in the footboxes is a non-issue. We wear out from sun, wind, etc. way before anything else.

[nicknitro71]

The new 460 cui Ford, based on the 351W so still a small block.

https://fordperformanceracingparts.c...KeyField=23197

[CraigS]

I really like the 351 based engines. To start a bone stock 351 short block w/ slightly higher CR pistons (10-1 or so) topped w/ something like an Edelbrock kit is an easy mild torque 400-443 hp. Scroll down a bit to see the ford small block kits.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...end-kits.shtml
All the internals are stronger than the 302 engine so they work fine as is. The large main bearing thing is a negative only in an engine that will see high rpm for long periods. If you start w/ a 351 this and later desire more power, your headers and intake can be reused on a 408 or 427. A 302 stock block is limited to 347. Also, in a coupe the slight extra width is not an issue. You might need to be careful w/ air filter choice due to the slight extra height.

[wallace18]

IMO the 347 stroker is the best of both worlds. JMO.

[rickscobra]

After reading all the engine building variables, I have pretty much decided to go with Mike Forte's small block turn key engine/tranny. 340 HP will more than work for me up here in Maine, where good roads are unheard of. Have not talked to Mike yet, but I would like members inputs regarding how turn key is the engine set up, related to FFR compete kit.

[loeffler1]

rickscobra

Where abouts in Maine? I'm in Gorham with a 308 CI probably with 315 to 325 HP. Goes pretty good considering. I've got 7,500 miles since last June 27th. Sorry for the hi-jack here David!