Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[C.Plavan]

The whole wing support looks excellent. Looks to be really good quality as well.

Just noticed you have the same compressor as I do. Very nice machines.

Thanks- That's my friends shop. I towed it over there so he could do his magic.

Speaking of magic........ Whhhhhaaaaatttttttttttt???

[flynntuna]

Looks fantastic,

[Mechie3]

I need to share this with my friend. He did his F500/fmod in Martini colors and named his team Mowtini (since F500's use two strokes). I've always liked the porsche 918 Martini theme.

[wleehendrick]

Awwww... Someone beat me to it; Ive been contemplating Martini livery for mine. Looks awesome!

[matteo92065]

That does look good!

[longislandwrx]

As I said on Brian's FB.. Should have gone with a Petronas theme... Martini is only good for a 4/5

nice work man... can't wait to watch you tear it up.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks everyone. Its still not done graphics wise either. I still need to do the hood and the other side . I figured White....... its gotta be Martini for awhile until I decide to paint it later (I'm digging the scheme alot though).

Now it is time to finish up the dry sump and AWIC. (After I paint the newly welded bars etc)

[D Clary]

Do you have a date for first test? If so where?

[C.Plavan]

Do you have a date for first test? If so where?

I'm just looking to get it completely done, then worry about a test day. I'm hoping for a Buttonwillow opening when I'm ready.

I finished a few things tonight.

Painted the wing mounts and associated bars. I drilled and tapped the bleeder valve and IAT sensor on the AWIC core.

Then some Box Troll threw in a little extra with my shipment of Front Hood Louvers....haha. Thanks Mechie!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I drilled and tapped the bleeder valve and IAT sensor on the AWIC core.

Hi Chad,
How did you drill the holes in the AWIC without getting any metal shavings inside? I need to do the same modification.
Bob

[Mechie3]

So that's where my extra heatshield went. . You kept asking if it fit over a blanket. Figured there was one way to find out.

Bob,
Whenever I've drilled or ported something like an intercooler I just blow it out with compressed air and then run a hose through it until nothing comes out. You can swish it in a bathtub too if you really want to.

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad,
How did you drill the holes in the AWIC without getting any metal shavings inside? I need to do the same modification.
Bob

What I did is put the AWIC in my vise (non marring jaws) and tilted it so I was drilling up. For the intake side which is more critical, I taped the nozzle of my shop vac in the hole (Drilling upwards, with the AWIC angled so shavings fell down towards the hole/vac. It worked very well. I then blew it out with compressed air from the opposite side. I may give it a bath like Mechie says just to make sure.

[Brando]

Per Wayne's recommondation, coating the tap grooves with grease helps capture shavings as well

[C.Plavan]

While I am there......

Pretty much all the top stuff of the dry sump is on (pump, belt, bracket). The oil is draining so I can remove the Killer B stuff and throw on the new flat dry sump plate later.

I also installed the Cobb EBCS with new hose...... I dont want anything happening to the motor I flashed the new Stage 2 + EBCS map so I didn't forget later when I'm all excited to fire her back up.



I also used some steel "L" brackets to help support the front splitter to the frame. I didn't like how the nose supported all the downforce. I plan on taping up the holes to smooth the airflow. I just hole sawed through the aluminum/ drilled through splitter, and rivnuted everything in.


I got halfway done mounting the front heat exchanger. I have to remove some aluminum panels to mount the bottom mounting brackets . It wouldn't of been a problem if I just decided to do Waynes's AWIC kit up front instead of an air intercooler. I hate going backwards, to go forward.

[Hindsight]

So Chad, what ST class do you think you'll run in, what cars will you be up against and how competitive do you think you'll be in there?

[C.Plavan]

So Chad, what ST class do you think you'll run in, what cars will you be up against and how competitive do you think you'll be in there?

With the stock TD04 turbo and injectors- I'm hoping I fall into ST2. However, If I I end up ST1, I need to buy a bigger turbo/injectors. Its all up in the air. I need to finish the car and weigh it (I have scales), and dyno. ST2 is a bigger class, so I could just run a stock tune if it gets me under ST1. ST2 is full of Corvettes (Which I dislike with a passion) and M3's.

[Hindsight]

Well please keep us posted with your results even after the build is done! Would love to see how competitive the car is in ST. I'm getting the bug to get into a racing series and am not sure if I will do it with the 818 (I'd have to modify my S to R which wouldn't be hard) or something else entirely like a spec E30.

[Scargo]

Great ideas and thanks for sharing. Wanna see the dry sump setup!

I want to say to everyone listening that with a turbo, besides installing a good EBCS (and regardless of new EBCS or not) you need to have good, new vacuum hoses and clamp them on or zip-tie them like Chad did. You DON'T want them coming off, cracking or tearing! You could end up having an overboost issue like FFR did and have your motor go boom, or like me, a "perfect storm" that broke the ring lands on my stock STi pistons when a vacuum hose going to the EBCS slipped off the manifold and I had oil going into the intake after it was sucked out of the overflowing A/O separator.

[wleehendrick]

I also installed the Cobb EBCS with new hose...... I dont want anything happening to the motor I flashed the new Stage 2 + EBCS map so I didn't forget later when I'm all excited to fire her back up.

Nice! I've had my eye on an EBCS, but didn't want to commit to a custom tune right away. I just noticed Cobb's new OTS maps, so I'll go ahead and get one. I assume with no cat, you (and I) will probably need the low wg map?

[Scargo]

Grimmspeed is all I've known/seen until now. Might compare them. Cobb does make good stuff. I'd be interested in anything anyone knows about Cobb's.

[C.Plavan]

Nice! I've had my eye on an EBCS, but didn't want to commit to a custom tune right away. I just noticed Cobb's new OTS maps, so I'll go ahead and get one. I assume with no cat, you (and I) will probably need the low wg map?

I just loaded the normal stage 2 EBCS map. I'll find out the first run I have the LWG one also downloaded. I guess target boost is 16psi then it tapers down to around 10psi at limiter. It does specifically say boost creep can happen with a catless downpipe. So the LWG might be the ticket.

[C.Plavan]

Well please keep us posted with your results even after the build is done! Would love to see how competitive the car is in ST. I'm getting the bug to get into a racing series and am not sure if I will do it with the 818 (I'd have to modify my S to R which wouldn't be hard) or something else entirely like a spec E30.

Andrew who helped me fab/weld the wing mount races Spec e30 (fyi- a spec E30 motor built is around $10k out here.... Thats 818R kit territory). He loves it. However, he is eyeing the 818R now.... If I can go race/test without it blowing up, I think he may look into getting one later :P . I already told him he can take it for a few laps. He did all that work for a case of race oil and 5 liters of Motul 600 brake fluid

[Hindsight]

$10k for a Spec E30 motor wow, I had no idea. I thought SE30 was supposed to be pretty restricted..... but I don't know much about it other than what I've researched online and a lot of what I read was written was back in the mid 2000's so perhaps the same thing has happened to SE30 that happened to Spec Miata and it's turned more into a pay to win affair?

I'll be watching your results very closely and hope you share them. If this car is competitive in an ST class I would definitely convert to an R and go full-race. Hopefully you won't experience some of the engine troubles that others have. I guess there have been a lot of lessons to learn and you have the benefit of knowing the kinds of things that can go wrong so you won't repeat them (IE make sure your tune cuts the fuel out if boost spikes for some reason).

[FFRSpec72]

Most of the competitive PRO3 cars out her re are 50 to 60 k and the starter ones are 30k. PRO2 is close to Spec E30

[Hindsight]

I'm pretty confused by all this. I see competitive (national level) Spec E30's for sale for $11k to $14k. There is also a HP cap of like 155hp written into the rules, which many 140k+ mile engines can produce as-is with no mods, so I'm not sure why anyone would need to spend $10k on an engine. But I'm not speaking from any first hand experience here - just what I have been reading up about online in order to figure out if it's something I'd want to get into. I mention all this not to argue, but to better understand if my current understanding is wrong and racing in this class would be a lot more money than I thought.

My understanding is Spec E30 is one of the cheapest and most restricted classes around and the folks writing the rules do everything they can to keep it that way. The HP cap was implemented last year, for example, to keep the arms race at bay.

[Mechie3]

Limiting HP is done in many series with an inlet restrictor. It's hard to measure HP as weather changes make it go up or down. If you're limited to a certain restrictor, then you do everything you can to make the motor more efficient to make use of every bit of air you can pull in. Not sure if e30 is like that or not.

[C.Plavan]

I'm pretty confused by all this. I see competitive (national level) Spec E30's for sale for $11k to $14k. There is also a HP cap of like 155hp written into the rules, which many 140k+ mile engines can produce as-is with no mods, so I'm not sure why anyone would need to spend $10k on an engine. But I'm not speaking from any first hand experience here - just what I have been reading up about online in order to figure out if it's something I'd want to get into. I mention all this not to argue, but to better understand if my current understanding is wrong and racing in this class would be a lot more money than I thought.

My understanding is Spec E30 is one of the cheapest and most restricted classes around and the folks writing the rules do everything they can to keep it that way. The HP cap was implemented last year, for example, to keep the arms race at bay.

They are paying that $10k to get to that last bit of HP. Stock builds can yield 7 to 10 hp lower than the limit. One of my other friends just blew his spec e30 motor, so I was just as surprised when he told me the price. I said just buy an E30 with a motor in it.

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars.....

[Hindsight]

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars.....

Haha, this is true. So the ball is in your court now to post up some results! When is your first race?

[longislandwrx]

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars.....

BAHAH..

You'll probably be fine with the std wastegate tune, I don't know many people who needed to run the light map. Can you port the wastegate and be in ST2? If so it can't hurt.

[Brando]

besides installing a good EBCS (and regardless of new EBCS or not) you need to have good, new vacuum hoses and clamp them on or zip-tie them like Chad did. You DON'T want them coming off, cracking or tearing! You could end up having an overboost issue like FFR did and have your motor go boom, or like me, a "perfect storm" that broke the ring lands on my stock STi pistons when a vacuum hose going to the EBCS slipped off the manifold and I had oil going into the intake after it was sucked out of the overflowing A/O separator.

A cracked hose also paved the way to my engine failure. By the time i caught it I think the damage was done. Crazy how such a simple rubber hose splitting can cause such catastrophic problems.

[wleehendrick]

A cracked hose also paved the way to my engine failure. By the time i caught it I think the damage was done. Crazy how such a simple rubber hose splitting can cause such catastrophic problems.

But you loved that extra boost while you had it, right ? It often is the simplest of things that lead to the biggest failures (think space shuttle). The Cobb EBCS comes with plenty of new hose and zip ties, how nice of them! I just downloaded the Stage 2+ EBCS maps, now time to order one.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah not to thread jack but reviews of the stage 2 + ebcs ots map have been pretty favorable with boost coming on much quicker. I am thinking about scooping another one up if Cobb has another black Friday sale.

[C.Plavan]

Haha, this is true. So the ball is in your court now to post up some results! When is your first race?

Probably early next year. I need to test, test, test.

[C.Plavan]

Throwback Thursday- This was a TV Pilot I was lucky to be a part of for a TV show documentary. Feel free to make fun of the nervous guy that cant talk, with awesome helmet hair.

[wleehendrick]

Throwback Thursday- This was a TV Pilot I was lucky to be a part of for a TV show documentary. Feel free to make fun of the nervous guy that cant talk, with awesome helmet hair.

Nice! Loved seeing the 2002 out there also (that was my first car). But what's the late model Lotus doing in a vintage race?

[GUNS]

Looks great Chad, can't wait to see it on the track!

[C.Plavan]

Nice! Loved seeing the 2002 out there also (that was my first car). But what's the late model Lotus doing in a vintage race?

They allow anything sometimes in an exhibition class. Now there are specific "Club Racer" classes- they get thrown into our race group sometimes.

Dry Sump is 90% complete. All lines are made. I ordered one wrong fitting...... it was supposed to be female instead of male. Grrrrrr. It is for the what Element calls the "Vent in" port. I have to tee the breather ports on the heads and the removed PCV crank hose together, then run it to the tank.

I do have to make one different line for my oil cooler once I figure out where I'm mounting it. All in all, the hardest part was removing the Killer B pan at the beginning.









The dry sump vent can fits perfectly under the hump.

[Scargo]

Glad to see you doing this and breaking new ground, Mr Guinea Pig. Can you explain what is going on with the "Vent in" port and any other related attachments on the top? Does Element have anything online that details the install process? I have thought that I would drill and tap the case vents on top and get away from the hose clamps and barbs.
The oil line at the exhaust looks close. How close is it? Whose exhaust is that? Please, another shot looking up at the sump with everything installed...?

[Speedy G]

Oops, wrong thread

[C.Plavan]

Glad to see you doing this and breaking new ground, Mr Guinea Pig. Can you explain what is going on with the "Vent in" port and any other related attachments on the top? Does Element have anything online that details the install process? I have thought that I would drill and tap the case vents on top and get away from the hose clamps and barbs.
The oil line at the exhaust looks close. How close is it? Whose exhaust is that? Please, another shot looking up at the sump with everything installed...?

I'll take some some better pictures when everything is done. Brando has one installed, but I'm venting it differently. I'm not using PCV system at all(I'm guessing Brandon is because he is street driving his, maybe he will chime in), it causes the scavenge to work against it per Element.

The "Vent Out" is the dry sump vent tank (Joes Racing Products). The "Vent In" is all the breather lines tee'd together then going to the oil tank. If they fill with oil in corners, it can dump it back into the oil tank (The oil tank is acting like a big AOS/ recirculating oil catch can)

Element has been great at answering my questions. They really don't have "install instructions". When I have a question, I just email or call Phil or Andrew. Once you get everything, you seem to figure it out.

The oil lines will be close to the header but not touching. I have not tied mine out of the way yet. This is why you need 2000 degree fire sleeving. I had the stock headers ceramic coated, so that will help also. They do not sit below the frame rail, so my 818R will have a full flat bottom with the aluminum under trays.


Per Phil at Element regarding PVC

"I would just eliminate the PCV as your dry sump pump is pulling vacuum to your crankcase. By using the PCV the scanvenge pump won't be able to do as much since you're introducing a leak. I would simply eliminate it.

On a new engine build, dry system, it's about 8 quarts with the tank half full."