Its a bit hidden:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...td04ltd05.aspx
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Its a bit hidden:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...td04ltd05.aspx
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Mike that's perfect. Thank you!
How much was the dry sump system?
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

Single scroll:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...td04ltd05.aspx
JDM twin scroll:
http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...oll3specc.aspx
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
Wow... I was really late to the game, but didn't see the other responses. Haha
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
What a great shot! Thanks for the warm welcome to the area and the awesome night out! Karting next time for sure!
You've all but convinced me to go dry sump....
Where (here) were you shot down on lowering the motor and tranny? I intend to do dry sump and lowering is a consideration of mine. I'm not sure what the negatives are. You can always shim back up... Too much trouble? Perhaps for some without fabbing skills or equipment.
BTW, you could consider lowering the oil reservoir tank. That's over 20 pounds you could dramatically lower and possibly relocate for balance.
EDIT: It is my understanding that you only half fill the reservoir. That's less weight. Still, only 4-5 quarts in the system is not a lot. I wonder if this is typical or if it is common to fill it more?
Mind you, I have yet to do a dry sump. I have read plenty. Looks like yours are Aviad pumps; at least from the Photoshopped image (which is cool), it looks like you used an image of Aviad pumps.
There are two things that come to mind: Why are you not pulling a vacuum on the engine? Consider how the engine is vented. Second is: Why did you not add pumps to suck on the heads (per recommendation of Chris @ KillerBMotorsports)? If you generate sufficient G's then I believe this is worth doing. It IS a flat engine.
Again, I add the caveat that I've never done a dry sump install. I have a pretty fancy setup on my STi which has held me in good stead. That and what I've read lead me to ask the question about a thermostatic valve. You need that if you have an oil cooler. It will bypass the oil cooler until the oil is up to temp. I use a Mocal. If you have 10 or more quarts of oil it takes a while for it to get up to temp. That is why, when it's cool, that some racers run a heater in the oil reservoir.
I have 9+ quarts of oil in my STi's system. Two are in the Accusump. One is in the cooler/lines. Those do not get much circulation, use or heating unless called on. So I'm circulating 7 quarts. Perhaps I'm just saying that it takes a while to warm up a huge oil reservoir and that should be taken into consideration, especially when it's cool and you are revving/pushing the engine.
Edit: Sorry. I was distracted by the buns. I missed some previous posts. If you tie the venting into the PCV spot on the case then you lose any vacuum you might have. The system might need a vacuum relief valve if it works very effectively. Some have suggested that if the oil pump were mounted externally, and part of the dry sump system, that you could better and more easily address the adjustment of oil pressure.
Ideally, I think you need to rework and relocate the exhaust. Have you checked the Db level? Move the muffler and you could relocate the oil reservoir on that side and lower. Here I am, armchair quarterbacking and I haven't touched mine yet.
Last edited by Scargo; 09-23-2014 at 06:33 AM.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Reminds me of 50 years ago... (yes, fifty), that at 137, I could out arm wrestle guys twice my weight. I unloaded freight cars and worked in a warehouse. We all go through our phases, whether by choice or not. I had to work and I had to fit in with a lot of blacks. I found a way.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
She did have a great assets didn't she.
Scargo I definitely want to keep the vacuum on the engine. I am working with someone to refine what I have thus far, so it's back to the drawing board for a few days.
I played with a few different locations. Until I get a fuel cell and completely sacrifice the passenger seat I rather keep it out of drivers compartment. As far as engine bay location is concerned, aside from directly behind the tires, where it is now is the only spot I could fit it. I can't go any lower it hits the frame. The images I cut up in photoshop were taken from the actually pieces themselves before I installed them. So the sticker on it I suppose was correct
Last edited by Brando; 09-22-2014 at 06:00 PM.

Well sign me up for a CA visit.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Brando,
Hook up the system so that the only vent is on the top of the oil tank. You can cap all the breathers on the case and valve covers. Put a set pressure vacuum relief valve on one and run with it. Be nice if you could datalog the case vacuum as it will give you a running indicator of the health of the engine.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
Awesome Thanks Wayne.
So i should also cap the Peterson oil tank port currently going to pcv
Should I be concerned or make provisions to capture water out of the oil still?
Last edited by Brando; 09-23-2014 at 07:59 AM.
She's one of the dancer/bottle service girls. This is actually quite funny I work at Sutra. Might of saw you Brandon but didn't recognize you. Carry on
She was a GoGo that night. That's great Sutra has been my go-to for the past decade. We probably have many mutual friends coming out of that place. I have my 818 at Garage Tuning getting new exhaust routed and some TIG welding done. Did you ever get your engine back from them? Happy with the finished product?
Ya I got it back from them awhile ago. I'm currently working on body panels so I can get my VIN and rest of the registration process done. Currently my driver door is stuck and it's giving me tons of issues. I was planning to get up there and have a baseline tune done next week. But I'm not that confident with my time table anymore.
I got my car put back together. Canards installed but haven't cut in the vents yet. Dynopack came in at 350/350. I decided to get a little track session in at Buttonwillow this past Saturday (config 13 cw). I have not run this track in over 6 years so I pretty much had to relearn it.
Unfortunately on my 5th lap I started hearing some bad detonation between 6k-7k RPM. I pulled the car off immediately and called it a day. It was a stinger because Buttonwillow is a 3 hour drive, so 6 hours driving for a 14 minute run. Darn Gremlins.
I am hesitant to post the video because I was driving very passive, not using the entire track by any measure because I was still mapping it out in addition to still feeling the new car setup before pushing any limits. I was downshifting late and missed a few rev matches. I wish I had a few more sessions in to have captured a better video but hey there is one thing to take away from it. At Buttonwillow anything under 2:00 is a respectable time. I ran a 2:05 feeling it out. So that is promising. Sub 2:00 will be easily achievable.
I set the wing AOA of 10 degrees and was planning on pulling some of it out once I felt out the balance. I didn't get the car to under/over steer so I didn't find the sweet spot on the setup. Heck I barely got the tires warm.
Anyways, it was fun to turn this beast at 120mph. It was beyond solid, not a hint of instability and the car was begging to be pushed harder. Soon enough...baby steps.
Speaking of babies, now that I have one and my love for her grows every day, I find it harder to push envelopes I once lived for.
Next on the list is data logging and gauges so I can determine if IAT's, A/F, Boost or whatever else could be causing the detonation can be determined.
Last edited by Brando; 09-30-2014 at 05:23 PM.
Data logging is definitely needed for a race car. I hope you find out soon. I would also like to know your IAT's during a session.
Also, do you have a dyno sheet? How much boost are you running? I'm debating on going ahead and upgrading to the 1.5 XT-R to get my IAT's down...
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
They did the Dyno outdoors. Their printer was indoors. While they were moving the Dyno unit inside they clipped the surge protector and took down the unit, prior to saving my dyno data.
I am no expert but I felt the dyno showed rather spikey with a unexpected falloff up top.
Weird thing with his boost level readings is how it flatlined at 18lb of boost. It was like it stopped reading after 18lb. I wish I had a graph of the boost to show you what I mean.
I did happen to take a picture of the HP graph before he moved the unit and lost the data. I don't understand why the HP starts wavering after peak. The graphs I have seen with the dom 1.5 look completely different then what I am seeing here.
20140926_165032.jpg
I think you and the car show promise. As my friend (who's an instructor) would say, "what you need is seat time". I hope it gets sorted out soon so you can play. I remember having a child; I sold my motorcycles and calmed down. New priorities.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
You should of just filled it with 110 octane they sell there.![]()
Looks good, but that dyno chart is weird. Where is the A/F ratio? What injectors did you get?
Last edited by C.Plavan; 09-29-2014 at 05:56 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
I already had 100 octane in it, the detonation came on so strong and loud it had me concerned to continue racing and I recon that 110 wouldn't have solved it. Could be wrong though.
I kept the same 750cc deatschwerks. A/F was a smidgen over 11.
I'm going to spend some time getting this thing plated, it's such a hassle to trailer it around for little things like a dyno tune or simple welding job.
I would suspect that you need to pull a little timing out of it at high rpm/ boost. you will have a more stable horsepower curve and a lot more leeway for high IAT and octane changes.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Do a road tune to and log it to see where the issue lies.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 09-29-2014 at 08:40 PM.
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207
I am surprised you could get knock that is loud enough to be audible while you were driving, especially with 100 octane fuel. Something wrong there. Get some datalogs.
That is a very spiky dyno chart for sure... It reminds me of a turbo that has a weak wastegate spring. It is able to deliver some boost in the midrange but then falls off up top.
Absolutely.. do a road log and post it up. Try doing a pull starting at 1500 rpm in 3rd gear all the way to redline. That is a great way to get a wide view of the timing and fuel curves.. you can also post your tune if you want and we can take a look.
Cheers,
Jeff
You are joking right? You forgot the wink face![]()
It was probably the loudest knock I have ever heard. No question the car needed to be pulled off the track and reassessed.
Cool sounds good. I need to find myself a cable and software. I haven't gotten into the ECU yet but I am way overdue. Soon as i get the necessary hardware/software I will grab some data and post it up here.
One concern is the detonation didn't start until the 4th lap, it's going to be hard for me to put that kind of strain and heat on the car driving it around my house with no tags. Hopefully the underlying issue will still expose itself with a few hotlaps around the block.
Can you please point me in the right direction for the best software/hardware solution to use to capture the logs?
Last edited by Brando; 09-30-2014 at 08:49 AM.
818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
Delivered: 18 November 2013
Go Karted: 29 December 2013
Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
Finished: NEVER!
341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM
I think you have a EJ257? 1.5XT-R on it should look something like this. Max boost of 19.9.
EDIT: Oops!
Last edited by Scargo; 09-30-2014 at 11:27 AM. Reason: dyno plot not applicable to a 2.0L motor.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)