Dan's 818C (Lightweight818)

[Dave 53]

I picked up a new lightweight battery and placed it in the car. But I couldn't bare to install it with the battery tray area looking like it did after some acid spilled from the old battery. I didn't want to uninstall everything and tape it all off because that would delay the build quite a bit and I did not feel that was worth it. So I just sprayed it quick as it was with minor taping/masking. Turned out okay and that's fine. Moving on!
spilled sulfuric acid battery tray.jpg new lightweight battery.jpg battery tray after paint and new battery.jpg

The coolant pipes were sticking out quite a bit per the FFR instructions and the front wheels would hit them. I saw a couple of builders using these reducing 45 elbows up front so I did the same. I also used reducing 90s in the back to clean up the bend. The corrugated pipe bends were super wide and would cause the flow to be quite turbulent. I am thinking that this will work better (as long as it doesn't leak under pressure). So far no leaks with the system filled.
coolant reducing 45.jpg coolant reducing 90.jpg

Trans fluid filled using the quantity identified by Subaru. I marked the new FULL mark on my dipstick which ended up being just under 1.5" above the OEM marker. That's a little better than usual since my motor is lifted a bit. I am sure I could have gotten it better yet by lowing the transmission, but I did not want to mess with that at this stage. The build is really dragging out and I want to drive this dang thing!
new dipstick marker for trans.jpg

Fuel filler pipe cut to fit the Boyd tank arrangement. I bead rolled the piping to prevent leaks. Pretty handy little tool!
bead rolling fuel filler pipe.jpg bead rolling fuel filler pipe 2.jpg

Looks like you might be using common worm gear hose clamps on silicon hose. I'd suggest doing a little bit of research on silicon hose specific hose clamps.

I'd also consider double clamping in areas that will be hard to access after all the panels and body are on.

There is a section of cooling pipe that transitions through the cockpit near the dead peddle with a hose clamp that is in the foot box and later covered. I orientated the hose clamp and tightened it from outside the car before the body was on. And of course, it was the only clamp that leaked (interestingly, only in cold weather when I was going to a track). I couldn't easily tighten it from inside the car. I had to take the body panel (and door, etc.) off to fix it, but I reorientated the clamp so next time, I can tighten it from inside the car. And because I could, I put 3 clamps on it! Takeaway... consider the tool orientation of any clamps when it's easy without any panels vs. when there will be panels.