RickShank's Roadster Build - P/S Reservoir, strike 2

I'll save some of the info I've shared on a motorsports forum I'm on, but I wanted to get my thread started here. For reasons under my control, I'm in between jobs at the moment so I've got time, and hopefully the drive and ability to get a FF kit done. I've been involved in motorsports for >20 years, rebuilt engines, converted to Megasquirt EFI, etc. FF seems like the most "mass market" kit car out there with plenty of OEM, 3rd party vendor, and most importantly, enthusiast support network.

Key Dates

• July 15, 2025 – Order placed with Factory Five
• July 15, 2025 – Order placed with Forte’s Parts Connection (engine, trans, rear end )
• August 23, 2025 – FF Roadster Kit complete at Factory Five
• August 25-27, 2025 – Planned road trip from Harmony, PA to Wareham, MA to pick up kit and drivetrain
• Sept 1-22, 2025 - Overseas travel to visit friends from my expat days.
• Sept 26-28 - Factory Five Build School in Flint, MI.

Build Information

Factory Five MKV Roadster kit w/ PS/AC

• Powder coated chassis
• SS side pipes
• IRS rear
• 18x9” F, 18x11” R Halibrand-style wheels
• I need defrost / wipers for PA enhance inspection as part of the process. Supposedly, FF's heat/defrost only kit w/o A/C doesn't work on the MKV chassis yet.

Blueprint Engines 347ci stroker - I wanted a vintage Ford motor when the hood was opened, otherwise I'd do a Coyote and make more power for the $, probably.

1. Edelbrock ProFlow 4 EFI
2. TKX transmission, 3.55 gears

August 16, 2025
A collection of days over the past few weeks, mostly preparing for the soon-to-be-arriving kit. A few tools/items needed to be procured:
• #30 drill bits – used for 1/8” rivets
• #10 drill bits – used for 3/16” rivets
• (4) tubes GE Sil-II silicone
• (4) cans 3M Super #77 adhesive spray
• Sunex #10213 ball joint socket (4 sided) 1-59/64”
• Cleco tool & mix of 1/8” + 3/16” Clecos for AL panel temporary fastening
• Plenty of other things are needed, I just so happen to have them

Two things needed built for both pickup and initial setup. First is the body buck, a wooden form that holds the fiberglass body as it comes on top of the bare chassis. It helps to prevent cracking by supporting it in key areas. The pattern is in the back of the FF build manual and is cut from a 4x8 sheet of 7/16” OSB. I modified it slightly to be able to put it on casters as well as be able to pick it up with pallet forks. I’ll store the body on top of the 4-post storage lift until it’s needed.

The second item is the chassis dolly. This is primarily needed for the trip home, but I can see how it can be handy to have around until the roadster rolls. I built this without wheels for now with a couple beams that raise it up another 5”. This will give a solid support for tying down to the car trailer and allow me to lift it up to put casters on it once it’s home. It’s 60” long by 40” wide and target with the 6” casters is about 18” off the floor. With the new MKV chassis, the old tube chassis spines are gone, replaced with a more modern space frame from square tubing.

Planning to pick the kit and drivetrain up the week of August 25th in Wareham, MA (about 10+ hours towing) with my 8’ bed pickup and 18’ open car trailer. I’ll get the days picked this coming week once I can get a feel for the weather with Hurricane Erin occurring now in the Caribbean.

Chassis Dolly
Body Buck

Welcome to the madness!

A Forte 347 with a Pro Flo is going to be a nice combination in that car. Congratulations.

You picked the right company Rick. After I built my first FFR Roadster and sold it, I did shop around a bit to see what else was out there. Superlite, RCR, Ultima, DDR, etc. All had some decent offerings but either the cars were not sorted and needed a tremendous amount of fabrication, or had no manuals and no guidance, or the community forum support was nonexistent (especially with Superlite and DDR), or politics around crazy stuff like just getting replacement parts or sheer high cost alone.

All brought me back to FFR. There is no better company in the replica world.

Good luck with your build!

You're gonna love that ProFlo4.

Greg

I have seen where body buck is not really needed any longer. My MK5 body is sitting on my 4 post lift with minimal bracing recommended by FFR. Under the lift is where everything else is stored. Some type of chassis dolly is really needed to move the thing around during construction and make it high enough to get under when you need to.
Ralph

It’s definitely not needed per FF. I’m burning some time before kit pickup and I had the wood from the departed fence.

I’ll likely use the lift when I need it.

August 27, 2025 - Arrival

My MKV kit was wrapped up at the factory on August 23rd. Given that I have a bit of free time on my hands, it was worth the time and money saved to go get the kit as well as the drivetrain since it was kind of in the area. My dad came along, and we drove out on Monday and stayed not too far from the factory for the night. First stop was Factory Five Racing. Holy crap! There are a lot of boxes in the MKV kit! I had a forum photo of a person that picked up a roadster kit + drivetrain and seemed to have plenty of room. I have an 8’ bed and an 18’ open trailer. It barely fit with boxes inside the car, under the car, etc. Got the drivetrain over at Forte’s Parts Connection, about an hour away but about 25 minutes out of the way for our route home. Got home late Tuesday and just left the stuff loaded up. On Wednesday, I couldn’t help but to start unloading and getting things collected. Unloaded the body/chassis with an engine lift, using very similar lift point to what I saw the FFR crew doing. I used a box of brake rotors in an appropriate floor area to get way better balance since I was doing this slowly with one person. No drama and got it off the trailer and onto the chassis dolly again, this time with casters. Drivetrain was easy with the tractor having no problem picking up the pallet. I unloaded all the boxes. I’ll get a count later, but it’s around 40. Some are light, some are “Mustang Super 8.8 Center Section” weight.

After putting the car in the lift bay, the next order of business is inventory. Factory Five is pretty well organized in this regard. Every part (well, sometimes it’s a small collection of parts likely sourced as a unit) has a 5-digit code. Each box is numbered clearly and there is an inventory sheet(s) for each box. You get a copy of their checklist with a column to double-check their work. It’s a chance to get a feel for what I’m getting into, look for damage, and identify any missing pieces. It’ll be a bit of a chore to get through it. For me, I’m moving the parts up to my loft to a set of shelves just for this project.

I’ve got time lapses of some of today’s activities. I’ll put that into an arrival YouTube video. However, I’m leaving on Labor Day for about 3 weeks, then coming back and attending the Factory Five Roadster Build School up in Flint, MI later that week. So, after this week, this will be sitting a while. I’ll get the video out mid-September and hopefully be on some kind of regular schedule after that.

I’ll count work so far as 3 hours unloading and 3 hours of inventory.

Grand total for build: 6 hours.

Pics/vid
Rolling outside - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCZr
Picking up the chassis - https://flic.kr/p/2rq1GQc
MKV boxes - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCV8
Loaded up (short vid) - https://flic.kr/p/2rpVgs7
Drivetrain - https://flic.kr/p/2rpVg15
In place! - https://flic.kr/p/2rpZCJ6

Any idea what the chassis/body weigh? I noticed you have it on the trailer with your chassis dolly but no wheels. When you got home, how did you get it off the trailer? Is it light enough for a couple people to pick it up and move?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2nd2none

Any idea what the chassis/body weigh? I noticed you have it on the trailer with your chassis dolly but no wheels. When you got home, how did you get it off the trailer? Is it light enough for a couple people to pick it up and move?

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I think the FF catalog says the MKV chassis is ~410 lbs and most estimates for the body I've seen are under 100. So 500 lbs.

My original plan was to put the dolly up another 5" with some wood so I could get my tractor with pallet forks under it. When loading the car at FF, it was too high. So we put it flat on the dolly, no wheels still. I used an engine lift from the side to pick it up using the chassis and a couple 2' slings. I did this solo, but it would be much easier and less nail-biting with two people. With the body on, the only place to lift from is underneath the chassis or from the cockpit opening.

Ok - trying to get through the inventory before I leave for a few weeks.

I assume box numbers are specific to MKV, but regardless, related to chassis harness/fuse/horn -
What is 17578 ON-OFF Connector and 17579 ON-ON Connector?
Also not sure what the attached picture is.


A few boxes later - Front Brakes (11" 2-piston non-wildwood)
15129 1/2 ROLLBAR BOX
Attachment 218233

That’s the inertia switch.

Thanks! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertial_switch

I'll go through those two boxes again for ON-OFF + ON-ON connectors and the 1/2 ROLLBAR BOX today.

I asked the same question on the on-on and on-off connectors. They are wired connectors that evidently attach to two dash buttons: one horn, and the other button has what looks like a headlight emblem on the button. Still unsure what the light one is for or does it replace the headlight switch. One has three wires (horn), and the other has 8 wires attached to it.
Not sure if this helps.
Ralph

Ralph - THANKS!

The headlight switch is the high beam switch according to the packing list. For others in future - these are the button receptacle pigtails for the high beams and for the horn.

Now to try pass 2 at the AC box.

I'm traveling, so living vicariously through the ongoing build threads. My MKV kit is resting comfortably at home, inventory mostly complete, and I'll be attending the build school end of this month.

There is a revision update to the FF MKV Roadster build manual online - https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ter-manual.pdf

General Updates
Terminology refinements: Some phrases were clarified for better readability (e.g., “torque specs” changed to “recommended torque values”).
Safety notes: Additional warnings and cautions were added in Rev 1M, especially around electrical and fuel systems.
Tool lists: Expanded in Rev 1M to include more specific socket sizes and specialty tools.

Most Significant Changes in Rev 1M

• Suspension alignment specs updated — clearer values and optional performance setups added
• Brake system part numbers revised — includes compatibility notes for fluid and fittings
• Electrical diagrams enhanced — fuse box labeling and routing visuals now more detailed
• Tool lists expanded — socket sizes and specialty tools now listed per section
• Photos upgraded — sharper images, better lighting, and clearer component callouts
• Frame prep instructions clarified — weld inspection and surface prep more thoroughly explained
• Interior install steps added — optional sound insulation and seat bracket variations included
• Final checklist expanded — includes emissions compliance notes and state-specific guidance
• Safety warnings added — especially around fuel system, electrical, and torque procedures
• Table of contents reformatted — easier to scan, with renamed section headers for clarity

(used Microsoft Copilot for differences)

Happy building!

5 weeks since pickup, and I've been itching to get into this. Finally happened. Since I picked it up, I spent almost a month overseas, came back for a few days, and off to build school. Got some stuff prepped this week and my dad stopped up today and the project officially kicked off.

Impatient me, I had the body off the first week it was home. It can be done solo with a 2 post lift, but certainly 2 people is a lot less sketchy. We put the body back on. There was potentially a few spots that we were told to look for at the build school, and 2 spots will need trimmed. Rear AL that runs parallel to frame on driver's side, as well as body against the rear/seatback area was super close to the panel. Marked those, and body came back off and onto the buck with the doors/etc inside the buck.

Attachment 219695

I wanted to finish some of the SS pieces and I'd rather learn something that doesn't need to be 100% perfect vs just farming it out. Bought an Eastwood dual voltage powder coating gun and a convection oven (1 broken burner) off marketplace for $50 yesterday. I'm learning. Not ready for prime time, but for the e-brake assembly, it's good.

Attachment 219696Attachment 219697

Car wise, made some decent progress,

1) Marked all AL panels on the car with a letter and grabbed a photo for later. There are diagrams, but this will help.
2) Made frame outlines on the AL panels.
3) Install power steering rack , upper & lower control arms, front shocks/springs.
4) stuck on the optional / non-FF swaybar. Calling that shop tomorrow. Wrong hardware & wrong swaybar mount. I assume it's for a Mark4 chassis not Mark5.
5) Not totally stuck moving forward, so I've got stuff to do.

Attachment 219698

Pre-work being done - disassembled one front caliper, painting it. The main piece went great, I flubbed the early coats for the bracket. I'll sandblast that tomorrow and do that one over. Then disassemble the other 3 calipers and do the same. I assume I can't get the rears fully apart (cable e-brake), so that may just get some masking. More powder coating.

Still have backordered/late parts - wiring harness, roll hoop (may order 2nd one, I think I'll like that even if it's not true to the original), rear IRS knuckles/arms. IRS stuff should be here Saturday which is good.

Next up - front spindles. Muscling the IRS center section into place is going to be fun. Ford Super 8.8 is 105 lbs, I think. I can always keep myself busy with pedal assembly, fuel tank prep, e-brake handle build, etc.

Unplanned hardware store trip counter: 1.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickshank

Unplanned hardware store trip counter: 1.

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You owe me a new keyboard, sounds like something my wife would tally for future use against me

Version 1Q of the MKV Build Manual was released on FF website. https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ter-manual.pdf

Content Additions & Diagram Updates
New or Expanded Sections in Version 1Q

Engine Bay Body Mount (new § ~p. 385) -Added a subsection within the “Mounting the Body” chapter explaining engine-bay–side brackets, with two new diagrams showing firewall clearance and radiator support tie-ins.

Dash Supports (new § p. 552) -New page detailing dash reinforcement brackets—diagram added showing lower dash brace installation.

Fuel System & Venting (expanded)

• Added small section clarifying hose routing for vent line return (p. 169–171).
• Expanded diagram for tank filler neck and cap vent.

Steering System / U-Joint Assembly

• Revised layout (p. 220 ff.) with new exploded diagram of steering shafts.
• Clarified torque values and shaft phasing.

Body Fitment & Alignment Sections

• “Engine Bay Body Mount” and “Hood Fitment” expanded—three new callouts for hinge shims and bump-stop positions.
• Additional CAD-style drawings of hinge geometry.

Electrical / Dash Wiring

• Turn-signal wiring and ignition switch instructions now separated.
• Added subsection “Dash Supports” → clarifies bracket installation order before gauges.

Appendix D – Fluids

• Added separate table for Coyote and LS engine cooling capacities.
• Notes on DOT 4 vs DOT 3 fluid compatibility.

Appendix E – Torque Specs

• Updated with new column for metric equivalents and colored reference in PDF (blue highlight).

Notable Technical Edits
Battery Recommendation

• 1M: Group 34 battery.
• 1Q: Group 96R battery (revised to match new tray).

Torque Spec Updates

• Revised upper control-arm torque values.
• Added table for IRS suspension fasteners (was chart-only before).

Illustration Improvements

• New full-page diagrams for front and rear suspension torque sequences.
• Added QR code in digital version (page footers) linking to video segments for front-suspension and brake-line installation.

Terminology Changes

• “Complete Kit Accelerator Pedal” now separated from “OEM Mustang Pedal” (distinct diagrams).
• “Solid Axle Preparation” → slightly renamed subsections to “3-Link Fasteners and Solid Axle Prep.”

October 4th Update

Total build hours - 35

Completed yesterday/today - front brakes mounted, tie rods on, e-brake assembly built and installed, prepped rear IRS knuckles for install, changed rear wheel studs (to match front).

A friend dropped by to drop off some welding rods he didn't need and check out the car. He was horrified at the build manual instructions saying to use a reciprocating saw on my brand new Ford knuckle.

Powdercoated parts with new fancy-pants Eastwood setup - e-brake assembly & tab for clutch/brake switch. Lots more sitting on the shelf.

Notes - sharp 3/16" drill bit and good strong center punch for the pedal box. My drill was walking. Got a sharp one, and used a center punch + hammer vs an automatic center punch. Piece of cake after that. For the knuckle drilling, I used a step bit to me to 5/8" inside the hole. I used a hammer drill which had a second handle to grab onto and plenty of WD40 for lube. For the cut, I used a 10tpi 6" wood blade. By the second one, I figured out I needed WD40 a lot more often than I thought, and the cut was straighter and half the time at least.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a9ee316616.jpgE-brake by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...49ebf466ee.jpgPedal box pre-switch by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...82f6a674ab.jpgPedal box switch by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d38a8e24f7.jpgRear knuckles by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...53309ddc28.jpgEnlarging tapered hole by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...db395ab45e.jpgCutting off ear by Rick Shank, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dac486924c.jpgBelt sander + quick sandblast by Rick Shank, on Flickr

Also - tires for the 18" Halibrands:

I'm thinking the Falken 660 (not 660+) - performance/autocross capable, and decent size/price.

255/35ZR18
315/30ZR18

The build manual doesn't have 18" tire info in the recommended sizes, but it seems folks have run this approximately?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickshank

Also - tires for the 18" Halibrands:

I'm thinking the Falken 660 (not 660+) - performance/autocross capable, and decent size/price.

255/35ZR18
315/30ZR18

The build manual doesn't have 18" tire info in the recommended sizes, but it seems folks have run this approximately?

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Those are the recommended tire sizes from FFR. https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-ne...-style-wheels/

Bouncing around a bit on the build, waiting for some parts (and help for the IRS install). Pedal box is in. Masters are not as I'm waiting for some fittings on top.

For the accelerator pedal, we have a ton of freedom here. First, the bottom hole marked in the manual doesn't exist on my MKV.

As a 5'5" driver and talking to the build school guys, I'm planning on using getting the pedals as far forward as I can with the pushrods. I can clock the accelerator pedal to bring it forward, but I'll want that somewhat aligned with the pedals. I do have an adjustable seat track and I'll use that as well but with a fixed steering column, I want to take up some length in the pedals.

Any tips from any other shorter driver builds?

Thanks!



Attachment 219872Attachment 219871

Not that it matters at this point since you've already made the cuts on the knuckles, but on your next build :), you can cut those in an instant using a cheap Harbor Freight non- ferrous blade on a table saw or miter saw. I show this in my build thread.

Also for your next build, use a reamer instead of a drill to enlarge the holes on the knuckle. Super cheap on Amazon and no sprained wrists. Details also in my thread.

Enjoying following your progress on an MK5.

Pat

Thanks, Pat.

For the knuckles, it wasn’t horrible but there are better ways. I have a real bandsaw but fixturing it up seemed like a pain. If I do another, I’ll consider my miter saw as I think I have a high tooth count blade.

For the drill - no drama involved, plenty of lube and not a lot of drill pressure, nice sharp bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickshank

Any tips from any other shorter driver builds?

Thanks!

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The irony is that after having spent years making mods and adjustments to fit the bug & tall guys into the earlier cars we’re now looking at what changes we can make to the Mk5 to better fit the not so big & tall! Now that my knees have collapsed I’m a little over 5’8” but some of the changes I made might help you feel more comfortable. The first thing I noticed when I got in the prototype was that for me (and what I’m used to after over 17 years of driving the earlier roadsters) the seat is low, the steering wheel is high and it’s angle is wrong and the pedals are too far off of the floor. I raised the mid point bearing as high as possible and lowered the rear one (farthest inward) by about 3/4”. This brought the wheel into the same position as the earlier roadsters with the steering shaft about 5.5” down from the cowl and the angle of the wheel at 18 degrees from vertical rather than 25 as it is in the unmodified Mk5. I have Kirkey low back vintage buckets raised about 4” off of the floor and tipped back. This put me in the same place in the car as I’m accustomed to and also had the wheel into the “right” height and angle. An addition I still felt like the pedals were a bit too far off of the floor. My friend Henry Renaud (65 cobradude) visited recently and when he got in the car he concurred so I’ve now lowered the pedal box by about 3/4”. With all this done the Mk5 seating and control position feels much more like what I’m used to and comfortable with. If someone doesn’t have a history of driving these cars I’m sure they’d get in and be completely satisfied but for me it was well worth the effort to get the car fitted to me.

Jeff

Jeff, thanks for the tips! Regardless of MKV or not, this was going to be an issue. I wouldn't be able to drive a 33 Hot Rod without a bunch of work (sat in one at the build school).

I'm going to start with pedal adjustments as far forward as I can get, match the accelerator, move the steering wheel as you suggested, and I see what I can do with the seat angle and position. I'll leave dropping the pedal box for later. Did you just bolt it from the bottom, or did you cut the mounts and move them on the chassis?

I guess I'll get some blocks of wood to at least start guesstimating the seat position before I fab something up from steel.

Thanks again,

-Rick

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

The irony is that after having spent years making mods and adjustments to fit the bug & tall guys into the earlier cars we’re now looking at what changes we can make to the Mk5 to better fit the not so big & tall! Now that my knees have collapsed I’m a little over 5’8” but some of the changes I made might help you feel more comfortable. The first thing I noticed when I got in the prototype was that for me (and what I’m used to after over 17 years of driving the earlier roadsters) the seat is low, the steering wheel is high and it’s angle is wrong and the pedals are too far off of the floor. I raised the mid point bearing as high as possible and lowered the rear one (farthest inward) by about 3/4”. This brought the wheel into the same position as the earlier roadsters with the steering shaft about 5.5” down from the cowl and the angle of the wheel at 18 degrees from vertical rather than 25 as it is in the unmodified Mk5. I have Kirkey low back vintage buckets raised about 4” off of the floor and tipped back. This put me in the same place in the car as I’m accustomed to and also had the wheel into the “right” height and angle. An addition I still felt like the pedals were a bit too far off of the floor. My friend Henry Renaud (65 cobradude) visited recently and when he got in the car he concurred so I’ve now lowered the pedal box by about 3/4”. With all this done the Mk5 seating and control position feels much more like what I’m used to and comfortable with. If someone doesn’t have a history of driving these cars I’m sure they’d get in and be completely satisfied but for me it was well worth the effort to get the car fitted to me.

Jeff

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Hi Jeff - I am curious what you had to do to lower the pedal box? Since it's kind of sandwiched in there did you simply use spacers for the left (looking forward) mounts and then go under the right side mount?

I am close to Jeff's measurements at 4" for the standard FFR bucket seats, and currently at about .6"spacer under the rearmost steering bearing. I may go to the 3/4" used by Jeff.
I am about 5'10" tall if I stretch it.
Ralph

Making some progress.

My dad stopped up and with some photos/write-ups from others, we got the center section for the IRS installed in about 2 hours. Taking our time and trying some different things.

The bolts I ordered from Mcmaster-carr showed up yesterday, so I turned those into tapered drift pins that another builder mentioned. First taper on the lathe, used the compound (which *really* limits how shallow of a taper and the overall length), and then cleaned them up a bit. These were duplicates of the front bolts. Basically, we got the nose of the center up in, kept pulling it up with ratchet straps and a jack, then eventually got the front close enough to use the pins. Then bolt the rear, then replace the pins up front with the bolts. Then torque it all up.

Next up was the rear control arms (forged AL from Factory Five). No big surprises there. A few builders had noted some mounts may be tight and they get opened up with some all thread/washers/nuts. Pretty simple. Then a round file to clean up the powder coating on the holes. Confirm the bolt goes In *before* fighting the arm/metal sleeve. Torqued those, greased those. Gas tank went up in after swapping the parts-bin filler grommet for the Ford OEM one that showed up today. Had to run to the hardware store to get some longer 3/8 bolts for the initial tightening of the gas tank straps, then I was able to swap the bolts. They were tight for a couple reasons - first, new so not bent around a tank perfectly, and I may have twisted them a bit trying to open the pivot side with a tapered pin for the bolt to fit.

Steps backwards - rear hubs had to come off the spindles after seeing at least one person having clearance issues with the wheel fake knockoffs. Sure enough, mine hit as well. I need to shorten the studs up a bit. I pulled a few studs on with lug nuts (not my preferred way), so I'll swap the studs out and keep these as backups. Cheap peace of mind. Haven't decided how to shorten them yet. They do have a bit of a bull nose on them so that can go. Chucking them up the lathe might be a challenge .

Plumbing fittings for reservoir feeds to master cylinders came in today, so pedal box work can move forward again. But I'll likely finish the rear suspension. Tires came in (Falken 660 / non-plus) - 255/315s. When I'm stuck/want a change I'll mount/balance those.

Unscheduled hardware store runs to date: 2
Total build hours: 57 (52 me, 5 helpers)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3b05e71f4d.jpgDrift pins for center section by Rick Shank, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c1191e8cf1.jpgIRS Center installed! by Rick Shank, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f9bd14c945.jpgIRS Center by Rick Shank, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7a9968014b.jpgOct08 update by Rick Shank, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...004c7f013a.jpgOct08 Update by Rick Shank, on Flickr
​​​​​​​https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0735f37e89.jpgOct08 Update by Rick Shank, on Flickr

11.65 brake / e-Brake / IRS question

Edit - found the bag. My fault. Now to move the calipers.

Did you not use the bracket for the 11.65" brakes"?

I am now. I didn't see the extra supplemental instructions so I just installed them without a bracket at first.

I'm battling with that part myself. The directions are terrible for that install. When running the ebrake cable, the directions show the 13" brakes and not the 11.65" brakes, (can see from the mounting bracket and location of the calipers). Just be aware that the 12 point bolt hardware used to attach the calipers to the bracket will more than likely get in the way of being able to get the Ebrake through the hole properly. I was told recently by a builder to countersink the hole on the bracket below the passage for the ebrake and use a flat head to allow space for it to pass through and connect to the caliper.

Made some progress on passenger side aluminum waiting for bolts from Mcmaster to show up.

Got a notification they arrived, so I pivoted back to brakes.

The brackets I have for my kit (July MKV), 11.65" IRS brakes , look like this: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...AKES-rev-C.pdf

First problem, I need to change the lower bolt (I replaced the 12 point with a 6 point that was longer - the 6 point interferes). Second, I'm not sure about the routing of the e-Brake cable. The instructions, page 13, show a 13" brake setup I believe on a MK4. (tubular arms, caliper near top of rotor), which doesn't apply to me.

Any thoughts on the second?

Thanks!
-Rick

However, that just rotates the brakes a bit upwards.

I'm going to try this method of cable routing/retention today - https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post467490

I'll remove the longer hex head bolt I've installed (50-55 mm vs 45) for now. I can get a 12 point 50mm (max length) grade 12.9 bolt from McMaster-Carr, that'll be here Tuesday.

I detailed my struggles and solutions with the brake calipers and cables in posts 70 through 87 of my build thread. There might be something in there that's helpful.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post571418

Huge help! Thank you!

I still need a longer 12 point for the passenger side. Not enough thread engagement with the spacer setup to center the caliper.

Here’s my routing thought. I’ll make a small bracket that attaches to the bolt here, and put a P clip on that.
Attachment 220355Attachment 220356

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickshank

Huge help! Thank you!

I still need a longer 12 point for the passenger side. Not enough thread engagement with the spacer setup to center the caliper.

Here’s my routing thought. I’ll make a small bracket that attaches to the bolt here, and put a P clip on that.
Attachment 220355Attachment 220356

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Yeah, when I did mine, the spacer needs varied a lot from what the manual suggested. Extras here, none there, etc. I can see how it might push things to the point of needing a different length.

Your routing and fastening idea seems like it will work fine. Looks like you are going under the nut, where I chose to go over. To check my routing, I used a floor jack to move the suspension up and down. I think I had to temporarily disconnect one end of the shock to do that. Or maybe unscrew the adjusting collar. Can't remember. But, it's a sure way to know if your path has any interference points.