I saw it in a video of a builder.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickshank
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I saw it in a video of a builder.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickshank
Quick question for the experts… I need to monitor oil pressure while I’m turning the engine over. But the gauges are not on switched power. Can I temporarily run a power wire to the oil pressure gauge? Or even easier to all the gauges?
The power is only for lights, so no help. I spoke with FFR and they said it should read right away and to shut it off if there’s no pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
You won’t see anything while cranking because the gauges are not powered. As soon as it starts and you turn the ignition from “crank” to “run” it will show pressure. If you don’t like that answer you can go to the hardware store and get a cheap mechanical gauge to put on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Jeff
As Jeff said, I used a mechanical gauge when priming my engine.
Or pull the valve covers and prime until oil seeps out of all the rockers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
And remember to turn the oil pump shaft COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
I followed Jeff’s advice and got a mechanical gauge at Harbor freight. I have plenty of open ports on the sandwich adapter I bought. It worked well. PITTSBURGH Engine Oil Pressure Test Kit - Item 62621 / 98949
BP told me that 10-60 psi is good. I got 50. I topped of the coolant. Crossed my fingers and put it to ACC. The fuel pump came on for a few seconds and I heard the EFI do its thing. I cranked it AND… it ran for about 2 seconds. It sounded like it was starving for a fuel. I tried it again with no luck. I noticed I had no fuel pressure. The fuel pump was no longer coming on. So I started diagnosing. First I returned it to switched power like I did when I set the fuel regulator. No luck. I checked the fuse/relay. Looks good. So I checked the voltage at the pump connector. It read 13v.
At this point I gave up for the day. It’s weird that the pump failed right on startup? Strange coincidence. I guess the next step is to hardwire the pump directly to the battery to see if it comes on. I do have another inline pump that I can try. Will the pickup work or will it not work if the in-tank pump does not run?
Does anyone know the part # of the FFR in tank pump? Maybe I can just buy a replacement and see what happens.
I couldn’t sleep… I have an external fuel pump so I decided to hook it up hoping the pickup would work. Hooked it up to switched 12v, turn the key. I heard the pump whirring and I had 60 PSI of fuel pressure. Turn the key and brought the thunder!!!! Man it sounds like a beast! I only ran it for a minute as the neighbors probably didn’t appreciate it. I am so happy. Huge milestone! Thanks for all the help to get here. Couldn’t have done it without you guys!!!
https://youtube.com/shorts/CyfezpXMG...FqGGe58Lql26JO
Congrats, buddy! That's a great feeling, huh?
Absolutely! And I got my first snake bite! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gbranham
Awesome! I’m happy for you,,,,
Congratulations!! Gotta be a great feeling. Hopefully I'll be there about this time next year
An issue and a question. I hard-wired the Sniper and it worked perfectly. Should I just stick to the external pump and give up on the in tank? If I do is this a good place to mount it? The instructions say it should be below the tank. This is the closest rail that is below the tank.
Attachment 217910
With the good comes the… I ran it a bit more this morning and there is an oil leak. I tried to find where it’s coming from with no luck. Any ideas? I guess I’ll be callling BP in Monday.
Attachment 217911 Attachment 217912
Question: Is the inertia switch still in your fuel pump circuit? If so try resetting it.
Jeff
First thing I checked.. there is voltage at the connector. Next thing I’m going to do is wire the new pump to the harness to see if it’s another ground issue.
You'd have to give some better pics to diagnose an oil leak. Even then, it's difficult from pics. BP will want them as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
I found it. The valve cover is leaking. Dripping on alternator harness and in to starter.Quote:
Originally Posted by cv2065
I would go through your engine and check all of your fittings and every bolt again for correct torque specs, especially since the motor has had a few heat cycles from blueprint to your time. I wouldn’t necessarily give up on your in tank pump because you had an issue, it could be as a very easy issue to correct in the short term which might provide better advantages in the long term (Dealers choice). I plan on going through all my fasteners, connections and bolts before I do my first start up. I like Blueprints products, but I would still go over the motor from head to toe.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Your fuel system shouldn't be that hard to go through everything again to verify it is all good if you choose to stay with an intake pump.
In tank is by far the better option. They run quieter and cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
An inline Holley red electric fuel pump came with my BP engine, but I could not find an acceptable spot to mount it (close to tank and below tank), so went with the internal tank type from Breeze. The MK5 frame is not as easy to work with as the MK4.
My engine is not in yet, so not sure if everything is cool.
Good luck.
Ralph
I ran the engine. I was watching the temp gauge and waiting for 180. It was at 125 forever and I happened to glance at the Holley and it said 210! I quickly turned it off. The overflow tank was steaming and bubbling. Not sure what was going on with my temp gauge. It turns out the fan output was not setup in the sniper! I thought BP would have done that. But I guess when I think about it, they have no idea what I’m doing with the fan. Lesson learned. I set it to come on at 185 and off at 182. I was then able to run it for extended period of time and it stayed between 180-188. I followed Jeff’s instructions above and I think it worked. We shall see when I run it in anger.
Next is to continue to diagnose the pump issue and the oil leak. I made sure all the bolts are tight on the valve cover. It leaking less, but still leaking. Making progress!
This is pretty definitive. This worked. Plugged it back in to the tank. Nothing. I’ll talk to FFR on Monday about a replacement. Fingers crossed.
Attachment 217913
I wired the battery switch according to the @cv2065 diagram I attached below. The switch from FFR came with a jumper to connect A to B so you need just one battery cable. I deviated a bit. The starter is my distribution block, so I can use the RF harness wires. I guess technically it’s a safety switch as it cuts the battery and the alternator. But its location won’t be accessible in an emergency. Unless the emergency occurs with the hood open. @cv2065 I simply used the wire from the RF harness directly to the alternator without a fuse. I figure that it’s as good as it was before. I will add a fuse like you did for final install.
I’m thinking this one. https://a.co/d/idE5zK3
Attachment 217932 Attachment 217933 Attachment 217934
I was bored so I figured I’d go for a drive!
https://youtu.be/2Vju1jSMMOk
Update: I spoke with FFR this morning. They are sending a new fuel pump. I havre to say I am super impressed with their customer service!
Sorry I missed this. Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickshank
Attachment 217975
Today I finished the AC install. Crimping the lines was surprisingly simple. I’ll see how effective I was when I charge the system. I followed the instructions for routing the lines with a combination of the Type 65 and Vintage Air instructions. With this method, all of the necessary fittings are provided with the kit. After creating the line from the evaporator to the compressor it dawned on me that the fittings with the connectors for the charging equipment would not be accessible once the body was on. I think they are designed for the T65 that has the whole front end as a hood.
Attachment 218006 Attachment 218007
Instead I opted to place those fittings on the compressor. I bought them at a local shop. I also had to buy a 45 degree 10 to replace the 90 degree evaporator fitting. I replaced the 90 degree on the condenser with a 45 degree that came with the kit. These are similar to the ones I found at the local shop.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-35512-vug
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-35513-vug
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-358230
Attachment 218008 Attachment 218009 Attachment 218010 Attachment 218011Attachment 218012
The condenser went on pretty easily. The only variation from the instructions was the need to attach the brackets with a through bolt to the frame instead of the radiator.
Attachment 218015 Attachment 218016 Attachment 218017
For those that wired the compressor, there is just one wire. I assume that’s power and I don’t use the ground in the harness?
I will have to move the overflow tank, as it’s contacting the ac lines. Man there is not a lot of room. Do I need to worry how close to the headers it is?
Attachment 218018
I once installed AC in a 28 Model A sedan. These cars have loads of room compared to that!Quote:
Originally Posted by rickster991
Today was more preparation to mount the body for an extended period of time. First step was to install the wiper motor. This was relatively simple. I followed the Type 65 instructions to mount it. I tried to make sure it would not interfere with the windshield install.
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...oupe-rev-R.pdf
Attachment 218045
The roadster instructions are for Mark IV so it calls for it to be on the firewall. The firewall is not tall enough. I will use them to mount the wipers. The wiring is the same in both.
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...oupe-rev-R.pdf
I connected the compressor wire and then I proceeded to finish the battery switch. I put the rubber cover on it and installed a 150 amp breaker on the alternator line. I reused the alternator wire from the RF harness. It appears to be 6 gauge. I soldered the connector ends to make sure I had a secure connection.
Attachment 218047 Attachment 218046
And finally I bought my next build!
Attachment 218048
https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/s...a-427-sc-10357
Today I got the body on without the bulb seal. I added extra heat barrier in any area near the headers.
Attachment 218135
I then attached the body using grommets in the front. I have grommets for the rear, but did not install them yet.
Attachment 218136 Attachment 218137 Attachment 218138 Attachment 218139 Attachment 218140
I then installed the header brackets. I think they are on right they look good! It’s tricky to get the mounts to line up with the plate they bolt in to. The driver side went on fine. The passenger side was trickier. But I was able to get them done.
Attachment 218141 Attachment 218142 Attachment 218143
The hangers are at least an inch below the frame. These are going to hit on speed bumps.
Lessons learned. The condenser should probably be mounted on the bottom instead of the top. It hits the body. I’ll probably try to just lower mine a bit so I don’t need to remake the AC lines.
Attachment 218145 Attachment 218146
The call in the AC port lines was correct. There would be no way to get to them with the body on. I think there will be plenty of clearance for the reservoir. They are 5 inches below the hood.
Attachment 218147
Rick, how does your dash fit up against the upper body. Is there room to screw it in, or will you have to add extender brackets on the frame mounting hoop?
And there looks like plenty of room to have the whole upper footbox panel removable. No need to cut an access hole, just remove the whole panel?
Ralph
I’ll take a look tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by rponfick
So today I attached the hood, doors, trunk, and windshield. First was the hood. The hinges went together easily after filing the holes. I had some miniature files that did the job. The instructions call for installing the bolts with the hood closed. I could not get to the bolts so I was able to do it by propping the hood and doing it from the top. Once the hood is attached the adjustment bolts can be accessed from the wheel wells.
Attachment 218201 Attachment 218202
The first thing I checked was the clearance to the reservoirs once the strut is attached. I’m happy to report that there was no issue with my placement. In fact I was able to raise them to the maximum height with no issue.
Attachment 218203 Attachment 218204 Attachment 218205
I made a quick video showing the reservoirs and strut placement.
https://youtube.com/shorts/0qqXirY-h...AIc6QAD_YWASJ-
The doors and trunk went on without issue. I did just enough to hand it over to my body/paint guy. I then tried to install the windshield. The driver side is fine, but the AC evaporator is interfering with the bolt placement on the passenger side. I am going to have to move the box. I need to remove the body to add the bulb seal. So I’ll move it then. I took some pictures for the insurance quote. Here she is…
Attachment 218206 Attachment 218207 Attachment 218208
Question for the experts. Turns out the AC is not interfering with the bolt it interfering with getting a wrench to hold the nut. I tried to find a clip nut but they do not make them that large. They do sell nuts you can weld, but my rivet nut kit has 1/2”-13 rivet nuts. Seems like the perfect solution. Is it too good to be true?
Attachment 218219
Today was the last day I’ll be working on the car for a month. I measured the room available above the driver foot box. There is about 5”.
Attachment 218231
I was hoping to charge the AC, but there is a leak on the low pressure side. Hopefully I didn’t damage my condenser. I found these plugs that should help me isolate where the issue is.
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/pr...=416748&c=4330
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/pr....aspx?i=416751
https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/pr...=416754&c=4330
I made a good call on the ports. I was able to get the fittings on without issue
Attachment 218235
And finally I re-oriented my PS lines as I had a leak. I originally put the 90 on the rack and the straight connection on the pump. The 90 was stressing the connector and causing it to loosen. By swapping I was able to tighten without issue. I ran the car for several minutes, turned the wheel several times to bleed the system. No leaks. Fingers crossed.
Attachment 218236 Attachment 218237
This 3 week push totaled 122 hours. So combined with the 220 hours from the pre-engine work, I am up to 342 hours.