Michael,Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
Too Cool :cool:.
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Michael,Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
Too Cool :cool:.
The weather here in Charlotte was perfect for getting outside in the garage and finally tackling the replacement and re-routing of the heater hoses. When I was under the GTM replacing the heater hoses, I found the Vintage Air Heater Control Valve that Jeff Collins installed when he originally set up the heater hoses. This valve is an one way "in-line" valve that either allows water flow, or blocks it. It is also wired, and I assume that it's wired to the HVAC system wiring.
Since I knew that would be pulling the hoses and replacing them, I figured it was the perfect opportunity to switch to "Crash's" Heater by-Pass Valve solution. His kit allows for water circulation at all times. When the valve is closed, the water flow simply circulates back to the water pump. When it's open, the water flow runs through the heater core, and then back to the water pump for 100% circulation. Mike's (Crash) kit includes what looks like a vacuum type device that is supposed to be wired to a power source. It uses a vaccum hose that runs from it to the heater by-pass valve, which actually opperates the valve. I'm wondering whether or not I can with this back into the wiring source that the original Vintage Air valve was wired to?
I tried looking up the Vintage Aire inastallation instructions, but I don't know the model number of the A/C Heater system that Factory Five sells for the GTM, and I don't have the instructions that came with the system.
I would really appreciate it if some of you guys that are using the Vintage Air HVAC system, as well as Crash's Heater By-Pass Kit, could give me a heads up in terms of how this should be installed and wired. I think I've pretty much figured out the installation of how the hoses should go in, and how they should be routed. But I'm not sure about the wiring piece.
Here are a couple of picture of the Vintage Air Heater Valve installed.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...psbadeaafc.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps117f3427.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...psbce64ebf.jpg
I also pulled the overflow tank out so I could reconfigure it.
I bought a 1/4" barb for the Engine Steam vent to go into the top left of the tank.
- The water pump 3/4" hose will run up and over the front of the engine, across to the T-Fitting on the bottom of the Canton Tank.
- The other side of the T-Fitting will be a 90 degree down to a 5/8" barb. 5/8" heater hose from "T-Fitting" to the By-Pass Valve.
- The 5/8" Heater Hose from the water pump, and routed to the By-Pass Valve.
- 5/8" Heater hose from the By-Pass Valve to the Heater Core.
- 5/8" Heater hose from the Heater Core to the By-Pass Valve.
This mirrors the picture that Crash has posted for the layout / installation of the kit.
I'll post some pictures of the install as I go through it, for any others who may want/need to see it. (Either tonight or Tomorrow)
SIDE NOTE:
When I pulled the hoses, I expected to have the system drain it'self of most of the coolant. The water pump and the hoses running from it were dry. The over flow tank, was Dry. When I pulled the hoses from the heater core, they had a "little" coolant in them that drained out, but much less than expected. I haven't pulled the 5/8" hose from the Vintage Air Heater Valve yet, but I'm expecting the same. The Steam vent was corroded and rusted. (I cleaned it back up to get it ready for the new hose to the overflow tank).
I sure know now, what cause the engine to start over heating. No Water Circulation. But is was whan I traced the hoses back to the HVAC connections that I realized why... The upper Heater Hose connection was only finger tight. It's in a very tight place to be able to get a wrench in and tighten it up. But using on of my "AN fitting" wrenches, I was able to get it tight. I have no idea how long this fitting has been this lose. but at least I know right now that it is tight and should hold the coolant.
I'm just glad that I found this now, while I still had the bottom panels off, and before I had taken off for a GTM road trip... I'm also glad that I found this before something bad happend to the engine. Luckily, everything is Ok. But it could have gotten very expensive, Very fast.
I believe that things happen for a reason, but that doesn't make them any less frustrating. And for now, I think I'll just keep it at that.
Everyone be sure and double check your connections BEFORE you buttom up the bottom panels!!!!
Mike
Mike,
You should have a green wire on the VA HCV and you will use it to power the vacuum solenoid in Crash's kit. I've attached the Vintage Air GenIV wiring diagram link (pdf is too large to attach) and a rough diagram of the HCV and expansion tank Mod. You can give me a call if you like.
http://www.vintageair.com/download/0...%20Diagram.pdf
Thanks Vidal,
That confirms what I was thinking. And appreciate the diagrams. I'll go ahead and make the changes, and get the vaccum solenoid wired. Then I'll just need to reassemble the overflow can. I'm not sure what Jeff used as a sealant between the brass fittings and the aluminum tank, but man did it ever make a mess. It also caused what looked like about 50% coolant flow restriction. I've cleaned as much of that back out as I can, and plan to use a few wraps of white teflon tape on the fittings to seal it back up. Hopefully this seals it back up, because it is a huge PITA to get to these fittings with the tank in place.
I'll be in touch. I appreciate your help.
Mike
keep on it mike, you've got a great looking car/build. the weather's getting awful nice around here...
Thanks buddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon fiber
You're right. The weather in this area is awesome right now. 65 - 70 degrees and sunny. You've gotta love it.
I plan to get the cooling system finished up in the next day or so, and then get the interior panels buttoned back up. Then I'll get the sound dampener and heat barrier installed. Then the gauges need to be wired... Not one of my strong suits, but I'll figure it out and get it done.
Then it should be ready for the Interior Shop. Wooo Hooo! (only a year and a half behind my original schedule, but who's counting?)
Installed the sound proofer. It is new new product from GT Sound Control called Liqui-damp. It is a inexpensive alternative to products like Lizard Skin (about 1/3 the cost for the same coverage area). Goes on very easy and covers a large area with very little product. My 9 year old son and I in about an hour, covered the whole floor, both fire walls, entire tunnel and all upright aluminum with about 2 quarts. Not only will it cut down on road noise and heat, but will definitely help eliminate interior rattles, squeaks and that aluminum tin sound. In my mind, the extra 10 lbs in weight and $60 spent (including shipping for 1 gallon) is without question worth it.
Attachment 16190 Attachment 16191 Attachment 16192
Drive shafts are in, Kooks bolted down and I have a working E-brake without any modifications. Battery went in without having to remove any of the AC stuff. Clutch line and speed sensor on order.
Finished the replacing the heater hoses and re-routing them in order to minimize air pockets in the system. I went ahead and installed Crash's heater by-pass valve kit. I has a minor irrigation system emergency that had to be taken care or. (My wifes flowers weren't getting enough water). Turns out that the company that replaced my home A/C units, knocked out one of the control wires to the irrigation valves. That's fixed, so life is good. However, I ran out of time to get the vacuum pump solenoid wired. I'll do that this weekend when I'm back.
It feels good to get back outside and make some progress here and there.
Mike
Finally had a nice day yesterday and was able to get the car out and started. Posted a short video of the start. Had to run it through the neighborhood before I put it away (no video, but it did happen). The first race is in five weeks.
Karl
GTM 362
http://youtu.be/OADtGYCDcUU
[QUOTE=kaloper;94263]Finally had a nice day yesterday and was able to get the car out and started. Posted a short video of the start. Had to run it through the neighborhood before I put it away (no video, but it did happen). The first race is in five weeks.
Karl
GTM 362
Great to hear you are almost there Karl. Where are you taking the GTM for the first event?
John
Looking great Karl, glad to see it coming togeather.
There are milestones in every GTM build when the builder feels a real sense of accomplishment, of a job well done, of taking the time to do things right and being rewarded with a hurdle overcome. We've all felt this first when we take the bare chassis and hang the suspension; then progress to brake lines and wiring; when we squeeze that engine into the tiny space it needs to fit and fire it up for the first time; when we are finally able to hold the clutch fork in just the right position as we slide in the pin; getting the body mounted just so; sanding, and bondo, and sanding, and priming, and sanding, and guide coating, and sanding until every square inch of the body glows. But for me, these all pale in comparison to finally getting that rear wall glass installed in the rubber moulding and using the closing tool to close it up. Holy guacamole, Batman! Now that's an accomplishment!
-Michael
GTM #327, primed and ready to paint, and the rear wall glass installed! Woo Hoo!
I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who thought that was a PITA. Congrats on the accomplishment Michael!Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
I tried to crack a beer to celebrate completing that PITA task but had to get my wife to open it for me because my fingers had locked up! ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
Congratulations!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RumRunner
you can try the string method, it worked for me. put a small nylon string all the way around in the groove crossing over itself by about a foot, really hose it down with windex, have someone push on the glass gently in place while you pull the string out from the other side. it pulls the rubber over the edge and snaps it in place. it does take a co-ordinated effort and it works.
Great to hear you are almost there Karl. Where are you taking the GTM for the first event?
John[/QUOTE]
Hi John...I am building the car primarily for Autocrossing and our first event is the first weekend in April. I plan to get some track time at Summit Point soon after that. There is alot of work to get done in just a couple weeks. Hope the car passes Tech with the doors duct tapped shut. Ordered a set of Hoosier A6's yesterday and my debit card went into cardiac arrest. Looking forward to your build updates and driver feedback.
Jim (kalstar)...Thanks. Waiting to see your finished build.
Karl
One step closer to getting my car started, ISIS powered up with fuel pump wired, ignition and starter wires connected. I still want to be running by May 1 or sooner. Oil catch can installed for the Mendeola maybe the valve cover too.
Attachment 16962
Attachment 16963
Attachment 16964
I know, I know, not a GTM. But still, I'm prepping my skillset
Shot this rail dragster in a custom pearl and metalflake combo.
3 coats of Glasurit 90 Line white,
3 midcoats of Carizma arctic white effect powder,
4 coats of clear.
Monday I sand, add the red 2-tone, and add 3 more coats of clear.
In order to get the pearl/flake consistent, we had to make a wooden frame and I had to walk the length of the car with each pass.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGYOGtJD27A&feature=youtu.be
I figure learning to do this kind of thing counts as prepping me for the candy over carbon fiber body that I want to do on my GTM. (sigh...dream)
Thanks for your indulgence on this.
Attachment 16967Attachment 16968
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Spent 6hrs fitting the dash.... After 2 1/2 hours with a file and dremmel I decided to strip the vinyl, cut the passenger pod in half, fit it properly, then re glass. Finally finished all the race mesh and tinted both front lens. Not real happy with how the lens came out, I'll see how they look when they are fully dry.
I am on fitting the dash too. Same issue with the passenger pod. I am going to glass a section in between the waterfall and center console to close up that HUGE gap. Soon as I am done fixing and fitting that mess, I need to find someone to do the upholstery work. I am glad I went for black on my headlight buckets, it hides the imperfections in my lens cover paint job. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
Aside from that...I think I am down to mostly just interior work. Did the final gap on the doors today, not perfect but pretty darn good. Oh yeah, I need to install the front splitter and rocker extensions.
Is that cleaned shop? Lolxx. Just kidding, I like your garage because its looking well organized then my one. haha Can you please tell me what is the name of that car stand, Which is installed in your garage? I am interested in this because I think it can help me.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeman
Finally got a chance to post a video of one of the test/tune runs of the car at our first Autocross on 5/4. I originally planned to have the body installed, however, opted to run in go cart mode. It was much easier checking everything out and with making adjustments. The car ran well and I am in process of getting the body on for the next event.
Karl
http://youtu.be/PfRn6Gqq1C0
Wow, very nice.
How did you get it so quiet?
Karl,
That is too cool. And it sounds great.
Have any more videos?
J,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
Maybe that was the M3 that was on the last half of the course. You can really hear the LS during the end of the run.
Hi Jim...I think that was the BMW you heard at the first half of my run. The GTM has the full Kooks exhaust and it sounded quiet since I wasn't horsing on it. It kind of reminds me of my Camaro with the Magnaflow system from a loudness perspective, but has its' own sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by VD2021
Hi Vidal...I was only able to get the video of one run (got 7 in on Saturday). I'll post some more videos with the body on and a little more out of control...
Take care...Karl
I built my instrument cluster last week. I used the Intellitronix Create-A-Dash kit instead of the kit supplied gauges. These gauges are digital with an analog sweep. This is a relatively new product, but it went together pretty well.
http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/20...eate-dash.html
http://supercarbuild.blogspot.com/20...nal-block.html
This kit was also featured on Stacey davids gearz program.
Nice digital display.Quote:
Originally Posted by docglock
Very similar to the digital IP some of the Gen1 Guys have.
What are you plans for concealing the view of the PCBs through the smoked plexi?
How is the clearance/view of the fuel and coolant temp gauges with the column section cut and the column in place?
I plan just to leave it as is. You can see the PC boards, but they are really obscured by the smoked Plexiglas. I've left the panel hooked up to a 12v source for 12 hours, seated on a bench in my shop. If am 5 feet away, I don't see the PC boards. Now this could just be the way my eyes work. I figure when I'm in the car, I am at most 30 inches from the Plexiglas. What I notice are the LED readouts.Quote:
Originally Posted by VD2021
When I get back to the car, I need to do some preliminary fitting of the gauge panel. If it is too tight, I'll just raise the dash a little bit. I can't be more than a half inch either way.
This was a side project I took with me on my trip south. The really big deal this year is the Porsche 991 Transaxle arriving from Gbox in July!
Thanks!
I'm eager to see your install and its performance in the GTM. Definitely keep us posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by docglock
Alignment done.....much better!
Look how much lower the GTM is then the Vette, makes the Vette look like an SUV.
The pic in the drivers seat has the camara at door edge level. Man-o-man is this car low.
Did you do the alignment yourself, Or did you take it somewhere to have it done? Also, did you use the alignment "blocks/shims" that Mike sells? I still have that on my list of things to get done...Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
I brought it somewhere. Did not use the shins but I think I should, it is much better then it was, but still not ideal.
Dropped the GTM off yesterday at the F5R suggested Dyno shop. After the baseline run then a flash tune, the little 5.3 is putting down 314 at the wheels. The tune is still pig rich at 11-1 and timing was at 8. Tuner is working on her again today. He says it is possible he could get as much as 350whp, (possible). As it stands, at 314 (assuming 15% driveline loss) the engine is putting out 361hp. The phone was breaking up when he called list night but I think he said 391 tq at the wheels (edit it was 291). Not bad for a $750.00 23,000 mile junkyard truck engine. I have read that stock LS1 put down about 290whp so even at 314 I'm a happy camper.
Edit..... Final numbers are in.... 358/339 so about 415 at the crank, right where I was hoping (little better actually). Since the 5.3 is 326 CI and the LS6 is 347 and since the L33 comes stock with LS6 heads and the fact I installed a LS6 intake, I figured it was a baby LS6. After I installed the used comp cam xr269 I was hoping with the extra duration and lift it would make up for the 21ci deficit.
Research from LS1tech (baseline stock readings)
2004 LS6 CTS-V....330whp
2001 LS6 Vette......341whp
2003 LS6 Vette......354whp
So at 358 I am basically equal with the later Corvette LS6. Very happy with the outcome. This gives my GTM the p/w of 5.66-1 which should give it performance squarely in supercar territory.
My dyno video as posted on YouTube. SMG call to say they posted the vid today. Thx for the tune and the vid, highly recommend them.
http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_...?v=h6zFB2hdiIU
Man, you car came out so nice. Good show.
Thanx Vidal for the right link.Quote:
Originally Posted by fastthings
fastthings, That means a lot coming from you.
Seems in more cases then not, once a F5R car is done the builder/owner disappears. I will not be one of those. For what ever reason very few stick around after. I really like the crowd around here so I am not going anywhere.
I think it may be because hopefully they are having too much fun driving! But I agree, it would be great to have access to all their insight and experience during the builds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalstar
Now I am at the point where I can start making spreadsheets for both the GTM and the Coupe as I am not sure yet which way I am going to go. I am going to try hard not to faint from sticker shock! :p
P