25th MKIV #9772 Build NOR*CAL: new vanity plate

after 5 nervous days of - we are locating your crate, UPS finally dropped off the Coyote today!

we tore down the pallet in about 40 minutes, kudos to Mike Forte's team for a solid crate build!
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of course, we started modding instantly LOL

thanks to the insight of Michael Craven who is also doing ABS - I had to change the thermostat housing to the Procharger ATI AB018A-052 2015+ Mustang GT H.O. Thermostat Housing
This changes the output 90-degrees due to my ABS setup blocking a downward facing lower radiator hose, yet one more use of the inch-pound torque wrench :)

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I also opted to add the MMR Head Cooling Mod for 2018+ PN#455478B , I mean - why not protect the #8 cylinder from over temp issues...
plus it's MUCH easier to do this NOW when you can straddle the transmission to get the freeze plugs out
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glad I didn't spring the extra $20 for an AN fitted hose, it's tight enough in there with just a regular hose for flow

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Originally Posted by toadster

FYI - here's a pic of the door cards and the leather straps - I really like the mix of stitching and threads in the leather...


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I'm contacting FFR about the quality of the door cards... the edges are terrible! 80% of the glue came apart and some of the edges don't have enough material to cover the frame!

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No excuse for that. But can be fixed in about 10 minutes with contact cement. I prefer DAP Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement. Carried in most big box stores. Brush on both surfaces. Let air dry until not tacky. Press down and you're done. Pretty good chance if replaced will also have wrong/insufficient adhesive. Maybe made by the same supplier that does their seats. The lower cushion covering is almost always also coming off. With similar looking adhesive as your door card pictures.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

after 5 nervous days of - we are locating your crate, UPS finally dropped off the Coyote today!

we tore down the pallet in about 40 minutes, kudos to Mike Forte's team for a solid crate build!

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Congrats on the Coyote delivery! I also ordered from Forte and agree the crate was quite solid. The WiFi here at the university pool (daughter's swim practice) um...sucks! So, your pictures were taking forever to load and I gave up. But, excited for you!

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Originally Posted by edwardb

No excuse for that. But can be fixed in about 10 minutes with contact cement. I prefer DAP Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement. Carried in most big box stores. Brush on both surfaces. Let air dry until not tacky. Press down and you're done. Pretty good chance if replaced will also have wrong/insufficient adhesive. Maybe made by the same supplier that does their seats. The lower cushion covering is almost always also coming off. With similar looking adhesive as your door card pictures.

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I agree, I chatted with FFR and they agreed that it looks pretty bad... of course, asking for extended time to get it resolved... some of the edges don't have enough material to wrap around the panel... it's cut, or too short...!

I have to visit an upholsterer anyways for some other work so I may be able to get some ideas...

Thx for the feedback!

busy with other items now that the engine is here!

my Control Pack is on backorder, Mike Forte thinks it should only be about 2 more weeks - fingers crossed!
Also, my hydraulic clutch kit from Forte was missing the slave cylinder... was kind of surprised to see that missing!

anyhoo... been busy figuring out the footbox fresh air setup, spend way too much time drilling, fitting, adjusting, etc... I'm ordering a few 90-degree elbows to make sure they're mounted up out of the way of the headers.

due to the wilwood pedal box and the way the blower gate aligned, I had to remove one leg from the plate
I ended up using 2 longer 10-24 screw so it threads and snugs up the 2 plates, but also gives me a mounting point on the footbox
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I know some have said that the footbox blowers don't do much, or get hot but I hope this will work well. I figure I have ThermoTec inside, I'll have exterior insulation as well on the footbox, plus my headers are Jet-Hot coated...

I have a couple of Seaflo 3" inline blower fans, they move about 130cfm, if you want more go up to the 4" model
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I wanted to get an idea of how I'll run the 3" hose through the elephant ears so I mounted them temporarily
and yes - THEY ARE BACKWARD in these pics, so DO NOT MOUNT THEM THIS WAY

my mistake is your blessing in knowledge :)

but wait, there's more!

I nearly have the trunk done - I think a couple of holes are still needed to run the following:

• remote turn on wire for the subwoofer
• power line for the 3rd brake light
• speaker wires for left/right rear speakers
• power wire for LED trunk light

for the trunk - I have access panels for the fuel sender and the center section is hinged for easier access to the fuel pump, return line
simple 10-24 rivnuts with button head screws for sealing it up
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I'd really like to get carpet in the cubby before I put on the rear cockpit wall, I may get some of the 20oz bass boat carpeting - again, decisions!
and still contemplating a door for the cubby... decisions, decisions...

I'm pretty happy with how the cubby wall worked out

I have the braces mounted to the rear trunk hoop for more structure in the center
I also riveted in the Breeze side mounts which may need trimming later but at least it makes things much more solid!
I used aluminum tape on ALL joints in the trunk...and hard to get spots got a good dose of silicone...
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overall, the trunk sounds much more solid - AND should be worry free in puddles...

slow progress... got a few elbows to feed the footboxes and help mitigate the heat from the headers

parts to setup the footbox so far:

Woodstock W1141 3-Inch Aluminum Blastgate $16/ea
#10-24 Phillips Pan Head Screws with Lock Nut Kit (varies depending on size) but the blastgates use 10-24 screws
Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boot $19/ea
3" Bi-Metal Speed Slot Hole Saw ~$15/ea

let me remind you, if you use a holesaw on metal and there is already some ThermoTec attached - be prepared for a messy saw :)

I wanted to tuck the passenger side vent up high and make sure it would clear the pending Coyote ECU mount so I opted for the top corner of the passenger footbox just outside the frame rail
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in order to do this, the blast gate had to fit inside that triangular space which is recessed in the upper footbox, this meant trimming!
the reason I had to trim so much is because when you pull to open the gate the squared off plate would rub on the frame, it's a really tight fit now but it works!
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in order to mount the blast gate, I used 2 longer 10-24 screws and locknuts to hold it in place
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and top it off with the 90 degree elbow - ready for the 3" hose...
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trying to sort through my A/C shipment mess... really peeved, this took 2 months to get 1/2 of it was FFR delay and the other 1/2 was FedEx

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unsure who the heck actually packed this box at FFR, but it was most likely a marsupial... yes, i'm a bit upset that a $2k shipment had zero packing materials, and was 70% air
The condenser is a banana shape, and has some marring of the fins... I mean, the compressor was just bouncing around inside this huge box of air, so something had to take the brunt of shipment - right?
2 of the bags were open and the content were strewn throughout the larger box... still need to do a full inventory, but dang this is really depressing to wait for this and this is the result
I contact FedEx and they said to contact FFR, so I left a message... ugh!

On a side note, like Papa - I moved my trunk wiring off to the passenger side of the trunk - I think it makes for a cleaner installation and will show a cleaner trunk setup

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pretty much ready to carpet the trunk now, need to find more material to cover the breeze cubby wall as well

still going through the parts list for the A/C kit - I know the condenser is bent/damaged, other parts seem to be 'ok' but there are actually POL items as well!

Did a quick video on removing the exhaust studs from the coyote, did a quick fit before removing them to get a little more excitement in the garage

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdu2ob4Sy9k

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

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Originally Posted by Christopher

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

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Thanks for the support! The Wilwood EPB is pricey but it’s amazing!
Less cables and extremely strong braking ! I think it’s 2400 ft lbs of brake pressure.
and you get to lose the parking brake handle

If you can stomach the cost it’s awesome!!!

slow progress, got the power steering pump and compressor installed, pretty straight forward stuff here - undo the serpentine belt, remove a few bolts, add a bracket, and replace belts

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note the KRC Power Steering KRC 25304000 Aluminium Flow Valve (6AN Male ID - 4) as recommended by many on the forums
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Also, the compressor is simple as well- 3 long bolts, but the tricky part is getting that belt attached correctly!
The FFR instructions make you think there's a ton of space behind the crank pulley LOL, nope maybe the belts thickness is all you have!
It's an interesting process using zip ties, and rotating the engine, but it snapped in place!
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lastly I'm trying to do some pre-fit on the headers, may as well make sure the bolts are threading properly
mainly because nobody wants to be underneath the engine struggling with bolts more than need be!
I am using the Stage 8 (8914) 1.25" Thread Pitch Bolt Kit for Ford Coyote 5.0 which should make it a one-and-done setup!

I can't fully thread the lower bolts on the stand (no clearance) so maybe will play a bit more once I get it on the engine hoist
I am digging the jet-hot coating though!
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I'm loving this build. My order doesn't come in until July, but I've got my control pack ordered through Mike. I'm doing a coyote as well.

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Originally Posted by Tooth

I'm loving this build. My order doesn't come in until July, but I've got my control pack ordered through Mike. I'm doing a coyote as well.

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awesome! Hope it's helping, I post the good and the bad, so it's a journey!

I hope to get my Coyote ECU kit someday!!

A tip on the jet hot coating. I have read about and seen the coating frost from initial start up heat. The Coyote seems to start clean and idle well on first start. I would consider doing some short idle sessions to cure the coating before a long run. Great job on the build.

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Originally Posted by Railroad

A tip on the jet hot coating. I have read about and seen the coating frost from initial start up heat. The Coyote seems to start clean and idle well on first start. I would consider doing some short idle sessions to cure the coating before a long run. Great job on the build.

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yes, i'm curious how it will hold up since they didn't tumble polish them due to the exposed catalytics... they've cured in the bag for sure :) LOL

Toadster, this is a great build to follow!
Love the fact that its "all" included.... keeps us all grounded knowing others have the same ups and downs along the way.
You're making great progress and incorporating a lot of great additions along the way. Like many, I look forward to your frequent updates!
Thanks for sharing!!

Thanks, Todd, for the links for the reduced power steering flow valve, and the header bolts. Bookmarked in case I need them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Christopher

I am really enjoying reading and following your thread. I have been taking many notes thus far. My kit isn't ready until April and I am curious on your opinion so far on the Wilwood electric parking brake? I love the idea of a cleaner space between the two seats. I don't think I will be doing the ABS brakes, but those electric parking brake setup has my wheels turning. Specially since I already have ordered the Wilwood brakes along with double koni shocks and IRS.

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Hey Christopher, I bet our delivery will be on the same truck! Mine is complete mid March, but probably won't ship till April. You are also fairly close as I am in El Dorado Hills.

a month later and zero response from FFR or FedEx on replacing the broken A/C condenser... unbelievable.
so - back at things, while I wait.. and maybe never get resolution!?

finished up the footbox vent choke cable setup, used some angle aluminum to make some mounts, the cables are about $11/ea.
237 Rotary Universal Push Pull Choke Cable 63" Inner 60" Conduit (2-3/4" Travel)

spray-painted black and riveted to the 2" square tube, about 1.25" off the side wall
the driver side is about 2.5' long due to the vertical mount, the passenger side is about 8" long - love that I was able to sink that gate into the little cubby in the roof of the passenger footbox

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started to play around with the A/C knob controls... really bummed that every direction online shows black knobs yet,
I somehow got silver anodized ones - VintageAir doesn't sell the black anodized knobs by themselves - so I need to figure out something as I think the silver will clash on the dash

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I won't be using the FFR supplied plate, but trying to get an idea for spacing on the dash

lastly, my son and I measured several times, and cut out the hole for the A/C - Heater setup in the FFMetal Firewall Forward, still going to be extremely tight and really wishing the Coyote was in the bay to see clearances
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given the dimensions here, most likely the glovebox will need to be shortened... still have to test out some more 3d printed parts for the A/C unit to see if we can develop some 90 degree outlets

Glad to see your back in the garage! Good to see you this weekend to at C&C

Hey Todd, looking good on the AC install. But man, that looks like it extends quite far into the engine bay? I think with the fan, you're going to have to shrink the glove box some more? I know I'll have to do that with mine, to like 1" in depth or maybe less - YIKES! That's cool you have the 3d printer and I hope you create a optimal solution that work for you situation. Anyway, just following along... Keep up the great work! And enjoy the precious time with your son helping you build your Roadster. You're pretty lucky!

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Originally Posted by ydousurf

Hey Todd, looking good on the AC install. But man, that looks like it extends quite far into the engine bay? I think with the fan, you're going to have to shrink the glove box some more? I know I'll have to do that with mine, to like 1" in depth or maybe less - YIKES! That's cool you have the 3d printer and I hope you create a optimal solution that work for you situation. Anyway, just following along... Keep up the great work! And enjoy the precious time with your son helping you build your Roadster. You're pretty lucky!

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Thanks DJ. Yes, after we measured multiple times we realize that things are going to be extremely tight. Honestly I'm a bit concerned about HOW tight that fan will be up against the Coyote. I know the Coyote is a shorter block front-to-rear than other engines but it still seems quite daunting right now. Surely we will have to fit everything and pull the A/C unit before dropping the engine in. I just hope it clears! Oh the excess trouble I create for myself!

Yes it's been great having my son around for the build! He's awesome at crawling all over the car for hard to get to spots :)

Todd, that is quality time with your son really cool to see him working on the car with you. BTW, I picked up one of these headlamps and they are really nice for a bargain price if you need a little more light. My shop lighting is mediocre at best along with my aging eyes so I am always trying to get more light. Looking forward soon to seeing the Coyote land in its new home!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5V5TZZ...roduct_details

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Originally Posted by Fman

Todd, that is quality time with your son really cool to see him working on the car with you. BTW, I picked up one of these headlamps and they are really nice for a bargain price if you need a little more light. My shop lighting is mediocre at best along with my aging eyes so I am always trying to get more light. Looking forward soon to seeing the Coyote land in its new home!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5V5TZZ...roduct_details

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OMG that is so nerdy - I HAVE TO HAVE IT! :) thanks Travis for the find!

the dash is better aligned now, thanks to many - I believe i have it fit for end-result setup
this has been nerve racking since Carbon Fiber has zero wiggle room for error, you can't cover up a mistake like a metal dash with a leather/vinyl cover - what you drill is what you get

the initial setup from the FFR template with the RT Turn Signal puts the dash way too high as you can see in the pics, it's about .5" too high and

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you can notice the gap above the dash hoop

I mounted the RT Turn Signal plate "UNDER" the steering column which saved me about 1/4" of space in height, this left a gap under the Michael Everson RT plate
my son did some 3d printer work to get a shim fitted under the plate, hides the hole pretty well

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will be drilling a few more holes to finalize the layout in the center of the dash for wiper switch, and my billet buttons for horn, driving lights, hazard, and 3 switches for heat/ac (heat, fan speed & A/C on/off)
I'll most likely mount the headlight switch under the dash or off to the left of the steering column if it doesn't mess with the turn signal

Hello Todd
How have you been
this is James
up here in paradise ca
Looks like your build is really coming along great
I like the carbon fiber dash
I'm a woodworker i may make my own veneer out of claro walnut haven't decided yet
still waiting on my kit scheduled for march so most likely I will see it beginning of April

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Originally Posted by jamminj

Hello Todd
How have you been
this is James
up here in paradise ca
Looks like your build is really coming along great
I like the carbon fiber dash
I'm a woodworker i may make my own veneer out of claro walnut haven't decided yet
still waiting on my kit scheduled for march so most likely I will see it beginning of April

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thanks James!

finally getting back at it! Sounds like your skills will be a great asset!
I have to say this carbon fiber dash is pretty daunting one little slip and poof it’s dead!
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I just need to find a good under dash mount for the headlights and I think I’ll pretty much be done

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Originally Posted by toadster

I have to say this carbon fiber dash is pretty daunting one little slip and poof it’s dead!
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I just need to find a good under dash mount for the headlights and I think I’ll pretty much be done

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Hi Todd. Congrats on your progress!

I think I can commiserate with you on the can't be careful enough sentiment on your dash. Mine is powder coated: my approach was measure five times, then measure again. Then stare at it and think about it "one last time" before drilling/cutting. The more progress I made the greater the consequence of a screwup: result=start over from scratch. But, I eventually finished it in world record time (longest time to complete a dash!). Now I'm working through testing all of the circuits (no smoke yet!), and dressing in all of the wires. Looking forward to seeing your next update.

Not a huge update but got the dash finally drilled
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also wire dieted the Wilwood parking brake - lots of spare 16 and 12 wire now :cool:
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Looking good! Keep at it... won't be long before the Coyote lands.:cool:

had a little bit of time last night to drill out the elephant ears for the vent tubes...

used a couple Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boots to angle the hoses up and away from the headers, these mate up with the blowers and the blast gates
went larger than the 3" hose to give a little wiggle room, used a 3 3/4 hole saw and fitted some trim protector around the hole openings to keep from cutting the hoses

looks much better now that these are tucked out of the way...

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drilled out one more hole in the dash for the light switch, only 2 more holes left for the dash - waiting on my grab handle to arrive...

still waiting on the ECU for the coyote, it's been since October!

Looking good! Can't wait to see the dash in person as I did the carbon fiber too.

Yeah Todd, looks good! I still need to order my fan units. Any plans to wrap the hoses above the headers with some additional insulation? I'm thinking I'll do it in that area only. Anyway, keep at it, you're getting closer to the **********. :cool:

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Originally Posted by ydousurf

Yeah Todd, looks good! I still need to order my fan units. Any plans to wrap the hoses above the headers with some additional insulation? I'm thinking I'll do it in that area only. Anyway, keep at it, you're getting closer to the **********. :cool:

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I'll probably leave the hoses for the moment, they're like the original design with 2 layers wrapped around the coil
I also have JetHot coated headers and it's a Coyote so temps should be much less than a regular 427 setup... https://www.facebook.com/JetHotUSA/v...5729431503705/
if I get the notion, I can always wrap later...

my son and I worked about 5 hours on the car today, doesn't seem like much was done - but really digging into the wiring now...

since the lightswitch has a keyed hole, I decided to mount the sheetmetal to the back of the CF dash to keep it aligned and not tear into the CF
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also mounted the key switch up under the dash -we'll be using the keyless start but opted to keep the cylinder intact for another safety measure to have/remove a key if needed

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we also got to re-use the 'other' fuse panel mount to prep for the 2nd fuse block, going to use the Blue Sea Systems ST Blade ATO/ATC Fuse Block
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then the fun stuff - we pre-assembled the dash and started working the connection points - let me tell you, when you add the heat/ac unit you get extra looms involved so it's going to be a challenge for sure
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fortunately the wiring diagrams are pretty good
will spend a few days I'm sure getting things like the RT turn signal and IDIDIT relay integrated - also will have a good amount of spade connector usage so the dash can be removable if needed for any reason

Quote:

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Originally Posted by toadster

had a little bit of time last night to drill out the elephant ears for the vent tubes...

used a couple Spectre Performance 8791 3" ID 90 Degree Boots to angle the hoses up and away from the headers, these mate up with the blowers and the blast gates
went larger than the 3" hose to give a little wiggle room, used a 3 3/4 hole saw and fitted some trim protector around the hole openings to keep from cutting the hoses

looks much better now that these are tucked out of the way...

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drilled out one more hole in the dash for the light switch, only 2 more holes left for the dash - waiting on my grab handle to arrive...

still waiting on the ECU for the coyote, it's been since October!

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I cant believe the ECU is still unavailable, have you thought about sourcing from a donor at a dismantler? I also hope your footbox vents work much better than mine did, after disconnect the hose from the waste gate and leaving it open I did have some nice heat blowing on me today so in the end I have a poor mans heater now. :D I re-directed the open tubes to just blow more air into the engine compartment.

Nice work on everything, really starting to come together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fman

I cant believe the ECU is still unavailable, have you thought about sourcing from a donor at a dismantler? I also hope your footbox vents work much better than mine did, after disconnect the hose from the waste gate and leaving it open I did have some nice heat blowing on me today so in the end I have a poor mans heater now. :D I re-directed the open tubes to just blow more air into the engine compartment.

Nice work on everything, really starting to come together.

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its the whole ECU kit with coyote pedal, etc. one of his customers ordered in April and received it in late November :(
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it’s paid for already, just at the whims of the supply chain now

anyone use the “optional” hot start wire on the speedhut speedometer? It’s the red/black wire. Instructions say optional, but No idea where that one connects to…

That's a bummer that the ECU is still backordered, though not surprising with the global chip shortage. The build looks like it's coming along nicely though!

The optional hot start wire is to keep the GPS circuit powered. You want to wire it to the coyote HAAT (hot at all times) wire. This will allow the GPS to acquire satellites within a few seconds instead of having to go through the whole boot up sequence.

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Originally Posted by JohnK

That's a bummer that the ECU is still backordered, though not surprising with the global chip shortage. The build looks like it's coming along nicely though!

The optional hot start wire is to keep the GPS circuit powered. You want to wire it to the coyote HAAT (hot at all times) wire. This will allow the GPS to acquire satellites within a few seconds instead of having to go through the whole boot up sequence.

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thank you!! I don’t have that part yet so we’re trying to alight the stars between 3-4 wire looms!