Mark's '35 Truck Build Extended w/Gen 3 Coyote

OK, here's the final prep.... Part 2 of 2 of the Bedside Rails and Stakes.

The first couple of pics show the general layout of the rails and all clamped in place so I can now drill the holes to fasten them all together. I'll use ss screws, nuts and washers. I'll also put a washer between the rail and the stake to allow a some air gap to help prevent and moisture being trapped between the wood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1711214365

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1711214403

In the next pic below, you can see how the FFR Bed side Stake Pockets will cover the wood stakes. With all this mockup, it will allow me to epoxy the Stake Pockets in place on the Bed Side for final bodywork and paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1711214438

To hold the stakes in place, I'll drill 2 holes into the stake from the inside bed side. On the backside of the stake, I'll counter sink a T-nut. I'll show details later once I'm finished the mockup.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1711214468

Mark

I was asked in a PM to show the hardware I plan to use.

For the Rail to Stake, here's the inside view:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1711370214

Rail to stake outside view with acorn nut:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1711370192

Bed Side to stake inside view

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1711370262

T-nut on the outside hidden(blind side) by the Stake Pocket. I still need to counter sink the T-nut so it's flush with wood stake

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1711370246

Mark

Yesterday was spent taking the fenders and running boards off as there is no longer a need for them now that they are fitted and ready for final body work.

This also allowed me to remove the engine side covers to install the louvered vents. I first made a template of the vents and tapped the opening. I used a jig saw to cut out the opening and flat file to clean up the cut.

Lewis.... when you come to get the oil cooler and fan, I'll give you the template if you decided to order the same vents

Next, I used some popsicle sticks for the gap between the side panel and the backside of the vents. Taped them in place both front and back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1711541969

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1711542009

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1711542046

Then I removed the vent tabs that will hold the vent in place. I used 40 grit on the fiberglass and the backside of the tab. I drilled three holes in each tab to help with a secure bond (copied Paul's process) and cleaned both surfaces with acetone. I used the 3M epoxy used in earlier posts to set the vent tabs and clamped in place.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1711542079

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1711542107

Now, I can start the bodywork on the radiator cowl, hood, cab and doors while it's still all mounted on the chassis. Once I get the panel's surfaces matching, I can then remove all the fiberglass from the chassis for final bodywork, primer and paint.

This is bitter sweet for me and it's the first time doing body and paint on one hand and nearing the finish line on the other.

Stay tuned,
Mark

Over the weekend, I tore down the body off the chassis and I'm now diving headfirst into body prep.

My first focus will be the cab and removing the LizardSkin that didn't stick to the inside of the cab. This time around, I'll grind to clean and scuff the interior fiberglass then wipe down with acetone before reapplying the two LizardSkin products (i.e., Sound and Heat)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1711974366

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1711974387

I'll also cleanup the wiring

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1711974414

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1711974440

After basic body panel prep for initial filler and flat sanding, I'll start the various primers and final sanding before paint.

I've never done body and paint before, so it's a learning experience for me. I have a lofty goal to be complete with paint and body back on the chassis by end of May, 2024. We have a trip planned for the first week of May.... so, I have approx 7 weeks to meet my goal. Then my next goal will be the truck is complete before we go on our next trip mid to end of June.

Stay tuned,
Mark

Quick update.

Striping the old, flaking LizardSkin product was easy in some spots and very difficult in others. I ended up using my pressure washers to strip the difficult areas.... worked well. As I was cleaning, I was also thinking about the final finish for the roof of the cab. I decided to add some wood strips (ferring strips) to attach the roof cover to.

I simply ripped 1/2" strips from a 1 x 4 pine board and glued them in place with 3M 5200 polyurethane and weighed the strip down to match the contour of the roof.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1712148968

I'll then cover the wood ribs masking tape and respray the cab with the two LizardSkind sound and heat products.

More later on all this,

Mark

After cleaning and scuffing the cab's interior, I changed my mind on the LizardSkin. I had other sound and heat options from other builds I've done. And to be very honest, after my bad experience with LizardSkin peeling off and my plan to glue my interior cover to the side walls.... well, I was very concerned about the interior side cover not staying in place because of my fear LizardSkin would fail over time.

I first cleaned all the interior surfaces again with Acetone. Then proceed with a Dynamat type butyl rubber backed by aluminum foil.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1712319904

Then I covered most of the foil backed butyl rubber with this product.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1712319948

This material is about 1/2" thick, heavy dense foam backed by a very sticky adhesive. Both the butyl rubber and foam will be great for sound, vibration and heat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1712319968

I also covered the back panels with the foam mats.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1712320017

Lastly, I cut 1/4" lauan plywood to fit the roof that I'll cover with the diamond padded vinyl for the finish look and a fiber material for the sides. I'll add this after painting. Then I'll set the completed interior cab back on the chassis. It's much easier to do the interior while the cab is off the chassis.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1712320051

Some of you may be wondering why the gap in front of the plywood. Well, you may recall from earlier posts I made an overhead gauge panel that fit tight to the cab's roof.... so, I had to leave room for the gauge panel to fit

Stay tuned,
Mark

Since I'm doing my Cab's body work and paint off the chassis, I had to build a frame system for the bottom of the cab to stiffen it up, with the cab to be up off the ground and be able to move it easily by myself.

Came up with the design below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1712576961

I didn't want to drill holes in the cab's base, so I used fender washers to hold the cab to the wood frame

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1712576985

In the picks below, note the long front to back runners.... they are 30" apart, the same as the moving dolly I have. I simply clamp the dolly to the frame to hold in place while I roll the cab where I want it. Then, I can unclamp it, lift the front of the cab to tilt backwards and simply remove the dolly for a firm cab stance on the ground for sanding, etc.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1712577001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1712577026

When I'm done with body and paint, I'll place the cab on my lift's arms to complete the interior while comfortably standing inside the cab. I'll also use the lift to lower the cab back on the chassis.

More to follow,
Mark

During my body work on the bed side panels, I had to add some "parts". You might recall that I bought from FFR the Stake Pockets option. Well, by installing the pockets you hide the rear mounting area and, thereby, can't access the mounting button head screw. So, my fix was to install a couple rivnuts to each of the rear side panels so I can install the screws from the inside vs the outside.

Since the side panel has pretty thick fiberglass and the upper hole also had the ss wrap, the standard rivnut wouldn't work, i.e., not enough grip area was exposed for proper rivnut expansion..... so, I found this type of rivnut which worked out great.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1713184315

In the next pic, I bonded the stake pocket to the bed side with 3M's High Strength Repair Filler (HSRF). I scuffed up the bed side and stake pocket mounting surfaces with 40 grit and applied the HSRF to the stake pocket and pressed on the pockets to the bedside. 30 min's later, I was cleaning up the HSRF that squeezed out. I'll show the finished panel later in another post.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1713184342

More to follow,
Mark

It's been awhile since my last update.... well, a lot is happening. We decided to cash in on the housing market in our town and downsize. Our house when for sale about 30 days ago. We're moving to NE Tennessee by Johnson City, TN. We found a great home with a shop for me. So I decided to but the build on hold and finish the truck in TN. I'll keep updating as appropriate.

Thx Mark

The new house move has light at the end of the tunnel. We have our move to Tennessee complete and I'll have a new shop area of ~1000 sq ft. All my tools and '35 Truck "stuff" will be moved in this week. You'll note I have the floors coated and now ready for the work to begin.

Here's a quick peek:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1724069521

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1724069579

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1724069554

Closeup of the floor coating:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1724069602

It will be slow moving to get to work on the truck as I have to unpack all the "stuff" and set it up right.

Stay tuned, Mark

Hi Mark,
I'm finally getting around to installing my grill cowl. And I found large gaps at the sides after the top edge was fitted. Sounds like I have the same problem you had with it being aggressively trimmed at FFR. I'll email them today and see what they say.

But I have another question: Did you use that T shaped piece of aluminum that is supposed to mount the lower chin of the cowl to the frame?



Thx for taking the time to reply,

Hey Don.... I did use the T-Aluminum..... however, as I stated in my posts, I had to trim the lower fiberglass and make my own support to hold the lower cowl together.

Mark

Mark,

Did you have any issues getting the hood hinge to line up? I'm noticing that the hinge arm is perpendicular to the radiator but the hood bracket (that mounts to that hidden aluminum block) seems to be at a very different angle. Did you have to re-bend the bracket or hood arm?

Seems to be off by 13 degrees or so.

Or maybe I'm missing something.

Don, send me your email and I’ll send you photos of how I dealt with this issue. DonS.

Don, I did have to bend and shape each hood hinge bracket/arms.... A few twists and bends. I took my time, test fit and off again as need to get each side perfect. A large bench vice will be your friend here.... I also use an adjustable wrench for the twisting. Happy to discuss if needed via a phone call.

Good luck, Mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkassab

A few more items showed up yesterday.

First up, I received my engine side cover vents. I had then clear anodized which should help with preventing corrosion. These will allow the small engine compartment to dissipate some heat and I think they look good and period correct. I also plan on wrapping the headers/exhaust pipes and shields atop the mufflers (I have this stuff on order also).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1664967640

This last pic shows two products, 1) Lizard Skin, a heat and sound proofing system with spray gun, and 2) Raptor protective coating and spray gun (like truck bed liner). I'll spray the Lizard Skin in the cab (e.g., cab body, floor, door interiors and firewall). I may also do the underside of the hood and engine side covers. For the Raptor product, I'll spray the underside of the 4 fenders and running boards. I'll most likely also spray the underside of both the floor pans and truck bed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1664967768

Stay tune, "stuff" coming in each day/week.
Mark

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What was the sorce for your side vents? I am having heat issues and I think I need to add side hood vents to help in cooling the engine bay.

Grandpa... here's the link: http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php I bought the same vent that Paul did for his '35 truck. I also had the grill vents "anodized" by Street Dreams.

Good luck,
Mark

Well, the day finally arrived when I've completed all the house updates. I then focused on the shop, i.e., unpacked all the boxes, built a couple workbenches, hung "stuff", connected air compressors/lines, and laid out all it '35 parts. In addition, I installed lots of extra LED lights around the primary work areas. I'll also be buying a scissor jack.

I'll be cleaning up some wiring and then it's mostly body work and painting. I'll document all that as I progress. My goal is by Spring 2025 it's complete.

A few pics show the completed shop.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1736859413

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1736859441

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1736859486

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1736859522

Good to see you back!

Thanks Lewis. It your truck painted and complete yet?

Mark

To finish my build, I need to complete body and paint (along with my interior)..... but, I need the weather to be warmer to do all the prep/sanding outdoors so I don't "dust up" the entire shop. So, I'm focusing my "winter time" to wrap-up the interior as much as possible. I shared a few pics below of my start, i.e., Carpet and Speakers. I'm upgrading my carpet from FFR's supplied carpet (I'll use FFR carpet as a template, after I fit it, to cut the new carpet). It's better carpet and more "period correct". I started on the back panel where I have a pair of tri-axial speakers and a pair of subwoofers. I also have speakers for the cab front I'll show later.

However, I do have questions on what I can do before the CAB is put back on.... examples, can I install the dash, the seatbelts/shoulder belt brackets to the roll cage, etc. I'd like to also install the roof liner before the cab is put in place??

INPUT needed to the above questions. Any thoughts, cautions, got-yas most welcome!

Thx Mark

BACK PANEL:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1737897427

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1737897459

Passenger Side floor:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1737897493

OK, I just answered one of my questions..... you can't install dash before the cab as the dash bolts to the cab flange along the door opening and preventing the cab slipping behind the dash flange.

Mark

Howdy Mark.

Now it might be because my truck was an early build (sn# 0059) and it might be in part the mildly affected right hand from a stroke a few years prior to 2019 when I was building the ‘35….

All that aside I can recall terrible access to one of the upper door hinge bolts to frame…don’t recall now whether it was just LHS or both.

Can tell you if i were to do it all over again the temptation to drill holes in the doorframe and/or change assy instructions and weld a nut or two to the backside of the supporting structure (on the body frame) for the door and put a bolt in from the opposite side from recommendations…would be very tempting.

This as mentioned, could be my experience only…but it’s very little time for you to do a ‘dry run’ whilst the body is still off.

My 2 cents…hopefully helpful.

Cheers,
Pat

Thanks Pat.... you are correct, if the dash was in place, the upper inside hinge bolts would be impossible to get to..... so, no dash until the cab and doors are in place.

Thanks for your comments,

Mark

While installing the interior, I had to complete all the wiring, e.g., speakers, security alarm and my front and rear dash cam.

The pic below is the unit being installed. The rear camera plugs into the main front camera. Both front and rear camera views are displayed on the color lcd monitor on the backside of the front camera. Also, the main mount has GPS and the GPS position is also recorded. This unit was highly rated during my research.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1738160666

I just wanted to share the end results of me registering and titling of my '35 Truck.

As the pic shows, my tag and registration, Tennessee registered and titled my truck as a 1935 Ford F5R. I bought the '35 License Plate/tag off eBay and they used it. And since it's an antique, it's a permanent tag with NO yearly registration fee. Also, they used FFR Ser # for my VIN. Lastly, no inspection in any way shape or form was required!

I couldn't have asked for anything better. :D

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1738180071

I'm getting the interior buttoned up with the Console I made installed (along with all the internal electronics) and seat belts installed. I still have the outside side carpet to install along with the metal door opening "scuff" strips. The two sets of wires coming out of each side of the console are for the seats lumbar pump and the electric seat heaters (requirement of the wife). You'll note the control buttons for the lumbar, seat heaters, door pwr windows, etc are all mounted in the console. Below the radio is the HVAC auto control.

Thx Mark

Here's a few pics of the interior:

Drivers side:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1738416017

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1738415984

Passenger side:.... note the subwoofer amp attached to the rear panel. It will also attach to the cab once installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1738416054

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1738416081

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1738416110

I'm sure many of you know and/or use this Motive Products device. For those that don't, you just select the cap that fits your brake fluid container(s), fill the Motive jug with brake fluid, pump to put positive air pressure in the jug to ~5-10psi. Then just open the bleed valve on each brake caliper or clutch throw-out bearing bleed hose. Keep open until all air bubbles are gone and you'll have perfect, 1-man, blead brakes.

Once you use this, you'll never go back to the "old" way to bleed brakes.

Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1738680058

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1738680029

After several engine heat cycles, I decided to re-torque the Stage 8 Header Bolts and install the lock tabs to prevent them coming loose.

The next three pics below show the locking tabs and lock clips followed by the bolt head without the lock tab/clip

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1738680088

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1738680110

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1738680127

The last two pics show the lock tabs and clips installed

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1738680146

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1738680162

Weather is starting to warm up which will allow me to start body work outside.

Stay tuned, Mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkassab

Thanks Lewis. It your truck painted and complete yet?

Mark

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Nope. Waiting on weather.

I'm using Dakota Digital gauges/Tach with my Ford Performance crate engine and ECU. I tried to pickup the tach signal from one of the coil pack neg (-) wires and the tach was very sporadic (i.e., sometime showing the correct RPM and other times jumping around and/or freezing).

After reading many threads, I determined I needed a tach signal adapter to pickup a tach signal from the Coyote's ECU/PCU. There are several adapters on the market, but I chose the AutoMeter unit as it seemed to be the most popular.

The AutoMeter unit has 4 wires, i.e, RED = +12v in from the ECU/PCU, Red/Green stripe = +12v out to the coil control packs, Black = ground and Gray = Tach Signal output. Here's a pic of the AutoMeter Tach adapter

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1739539072

To start, you have to fine the purple wire off the ECU/PCU that feeds all 8 Coil Packs. This main Purple wire is fed from the fuse shown in the picture below. This fuse bank is part of the ECU/PCU kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1739538347

After I striped back the wire harness protective tape and seeing the purple wire I cut it to splice in the Red and Red/Green wire from the Tach Adapter. To ensure I cut the correct wire, I put a multi meter to make sure I had +12v from the purple wire, then pulled the fuse to ensure the power was off. After determining I had the correct wire, I installed a Female connector the the ECU/PCU side and a Male connector on the Coil side of the purple wire.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1739539096

Per the instructions, the red wired from the tack adapter (male connector installed) plugs to the Purple wire from the ECU/PCU side. The red/green wire from the tach adapter (female connector installed) plugs to the purple wire feeding the Coil Packs.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1739539112

After testing to ensure all worked (including the Dakota Digital tach) I cleaned up the wire runs and wire loomed/taped as appropriate.

I'm now ready to download my Lund tune I received the other day. I'll document that after completion.

Mark

FWIW, I used the - side of the number 8 cylinder coil for the tach signal on the hemi in my 33. Since the Autometer tach that came with the kit only had settings for 2, 4 or 8 cylinders I needed something to convert s 1 cylinder signal to an 8 cylinder signal. I used a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface. I programed it for a 1 cylinder input and an 8 cylinder output, works like a charm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dgc333

FWIW, I used the - side of the number 8 cylinder coil for the tach signal on the hemi in my 33. Since the Autometer tach that came with the kit only had settings for 2, 4 or 8 cylinders I needed something to convert s 1 cylinder signal to an 8 cylinder signal. I used a Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface. I programed it for a 1 cylinder input and an 8 cylinder output, works like a charm.

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Yes, that's a solution. JUST an FYI for all, Dakota Digital gives cylinder options for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 16 Cylinder (there may be other options I can't recall e.g., 3, and 12 cylinders). I believe the 16 is if you get a .5 (1/2) pulse. I think 16 is also for dual sparkplug per cylinder engines

Mark

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkassab

Yes, that's a solution. JUST an FYI for all, Dakota Digital gives cylinder options for 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 16 Cylinder (there may be other options I can't recall e.g., 3, and 12 cylinders). I believe the 16 is if you get a .5 (1/2) pulse. I think 16 is also for dual sparkplug per cylinder engines

Mark

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The Gen 3 hemi has dual plugs per cylinder. The early engines (pre 2009) had the coils firing on both the power stroke and exhaust stroke. One end of the coil secondary was directly connected to the first plug for the cylinder firing. The other end of the coil secondary was connected to the second plug of the complementary cylinder. The complementary cylinders coil fires its first plug in the exhaust stroke and the other end is connected to the firing cylinders second plug. This is when you need the 16 setting.

The 2009 up hemis one coil fires both plugs at the same time in the power stroke. You used the 8 setting on these engines

I need help on what causes the OBD II eng light to come on (See pic below). This OBD II and light are from the Ford Performance ECU/PCU package I bought with the Gen 3 Coyote. I'm NOT referring to a engine code occurring that would illuminate the bulb......, but is it a +12v signal to the engine light or a (-) Negative trigger which would mean the bulb has +12v as a constant and needs a ground to cause it to illuminate/turn-on when a code happens.

I know I can put a multimeter on the + and - wires to the bulb to help determine that, but trying this route first.

The reason I'm asking is my Dakota Digital instrument cluster has an engine light warning built into it and needs a (-) negative ground input to cause it to illuminate.

Thx Mark

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1739976378

Paul (aka EdwardB) just answered my question re: what triggers the eng light. I posted the same question under the Coyote page. Result was... it's a negative trigger. Here's his full answer and how I'll try to resolve the PCM ground/negative leakage issue.... link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-light-trigger

Mark

I'm winding down on inside work. Today, I decided to tint my door and the cab's back glass. This is a very easy process, especially with the glass on the bench vs installed. If you decide to do yourself, watch a few YouTube videos. Just need a squeezy, distilled water with a few drops of baby shampoo, rubbing alcohol in some spray bottles and a few razor blades for trimming. If you don't want to tackle this project yourself, take the glass (pre-install) to a tinting place and have them do it. It should be a lot cheaper with the glass out vs installed.

Here's the process I used.

1. Cleaned glass with microfiber towel. Last step to clean with rubbing alcohol.
2. Spray glass with soap solution. Then peel clear backing off the tint and spray the glue side with soap solution. NOTE: you can't apply too much.... so make it wet! Pic below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1740500668

3. Then, starting in the middle, working out to the edges, squeezy the soap solution out from under the tint. Start easy until tint doesn't slide, then pressing harder to get as much water out. I also spray soap solution on the tint exterior to lubricate the squeezy on the tint. See pics below

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1740500756

4. once squeezed, I rough trim the tint and let the tint set a few minute. This pic of rough trim.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1740500808

5, for the final trim, I used the other door window as a guide. I offset the glass about 1/16" and time the tint leaving the 1/16th" glass that will be under the rubber. Here's 2 pics showing the final process.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1740500868

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1740502982

Set glass tint side up and let dry at room temp for a few days.

NOTE: for the back glass I did the same process except I trimmed the tint on the solid black window just past where the poke-a-dot pattern ends.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1740503002

Good luck,
Mark

While doing body work on the bed sides, I noticed the stainless steel cladding is delaminating from the fiberglass.

Question, what's the best product to reglue the stainless steel to the fiberglass? Examples, 3M Panel bond 08115, 08116, 58115 ; 3M 5200 ; 3M DP460 ; Sikaflex 291 : Marine High Strength Premium Vinyl Ester filler, etc???

Any input most welcome. Pro / Cons for each also most welcome.

Thx Mark

I used JB Weld Plastic Bonder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5VJZ5XW...sin_title&th=1

and mixing nozzles
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Adhesi...2435915&sr=8-3

I also added a little insurance with the placement of Anchor ties down loops bolted through the Stainless and fiberglass panels.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Cei...%2C229&sr=8-23

These look like they are to strap down cargo, but really just bolt the panels together.

Thanks Steve, but I want a purpose built epoxy vs the Plastic Bonder.... i.e.., fiberglass and SS are very different. I Only want to do this one time.

Thx Mark