Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - First body work shots

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Originally Posted by ydousurf

Blitz, the dash looks awesome and thanks for the link to the vinyl wrap too! I was planning on doing my lower dash kick-out and trans tunnel in real carbon fiber, but maybe this an easier route to go? I’ll have to decide on which direction to go. Again thanks for sharing that info.

Jeff, here is a link to those seats. They are the model: Stoneleigh - (Not cheap but you can go full customized with them).
https://intatrim.co.uk/products/stoneleigh/

I was considering getting those as well, but now I’m thinking of getting Corbeau Evolution X seats. I’m just not sure if these will fit?

Doug

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I put these in.

Cobra Monaco Pro

https://www.cobraseats-usa.com/item/...pro/motorsport

They are the same size according to the website. My only caviet is I put a previous version in. I don't know if the updated ones are the same dimensions. Also when I say they fit, they JUST FIT. No wiggle room whatsoever. If I had needed them closer to the foot box I could not have used them.

I think you will be ok but I would mock something up before committing to the purchase.

Thanks for the input/feedback, Blitz! Yeah, I really like those seats too! I’m actually looking for the option to have seat heaters installed in them, and that is why I was looking at either the Stoneleigh or Evolution. Plus, I am planning to make them swappable as to be able to switch between the original roadster seats for shows/cars & coffee and a head-rest version for autocross and highway driving. However those you have would give a much nicer “racer’s” feel I believe.

Doug

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Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

As I round third base on the dash I wanted to add a handle and re enforce the dash. The number one thing you will end up telling everyone that gets in the passenger seat for the first time is not to use the windshield to support themselves. It is not load bearing. I like having a grab rail. It gives people something to use to sit and pull themselves up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1733098753

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Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

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Originally Posted by TXeverydayDad

Where did you get that grab rail? Looks really good.

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Thanks man, I appreciate that. It’s a pretty standard marine grab rail. It was polished steel. I powder coated it in Prismatic Powder stone black. I picked it primarily because it fit in the space available

https://a.co/d/4OBExMi

I just ordered the same grab bar.

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

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Originally Posted by danmas

Are you able to share your center console design? It looks straight forward but would be nice to follow in your footsteps.

Thanks!

Dan

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Sure, I didn't make a template or anything but I can take some detailed pictures and measurements if you want.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

A few upgrade parts arrived.

First is the Ford gas tank filler seal. For those that don't know the grommet that comes with the kit that seals the filler neck to the gas tank is not OEM. FFR uses a Dorman part. There is a history of those leaking. I ordered the Ford part at my local dealer and I had it in a day. It was $32. Cheap insurance. Ford PN FZZZ9072DA

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1726954634

Next is the brakes. Wilwood uses what they call BP-10 as their standard brake pad. Regardless if you order from them or FFR this is what will come with them unless you tell them otherwise. I found them to be ok, but just ok. Some may disagree but I want my brakes to stop as aggressively and radically as my car accelerates. I did a lot of motorcycle track days in my 20's and 30's. My best times were all on lightweight bikes with huge brakes vs heavy fire breathers. I upgraded my fronts to BP-20's on my first build in the front. These are the most aggressive "street pad" Wilwood offers (everything else is a race pad). It made a significant difference. This build I want freakish stopping power so I am putting BP-20's on all four corners. They are not cheap but worth it IMO

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1726954577

The real exciting news is I got my panels back from powder coat. They cam out really nice. It's a metallic charcoal. I am going to use black rivets and I think it creates a cool look. The best part is I now have my color scheme worked out and it is all represented in my engine bay. Interesting twist is I was originally going to PC all the engine panels black again. I dropped them off with that as my order. The next morning I changed my mind to the charcoal. I already did the driver footbox. I plan to keep it black for now. I have some design ideas that I think will look really cool, but there is a scenario where I pull it back off and re do it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1726954634

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1726954634

Now that my F panels are in I was able to finish the front suspension. This should have been completely drama free but I discovered one of the downsides of having done this before is getting a little too comfortable. I make sure to keep the manual open and reference it. I got to the spindles and stopped reading at "DSS is the drivers side spindle". The rest of that sentence was for the hotrod. The roadster goes the other way. So I installed it on the drivers side before realizing it wasn't right. So I had to take it back out and fix it. I had to use a bearing puller to get it to pop off the lower control arm. Those are tapered. DOH

Any rate they are in and look good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1726954577

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1726954577

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Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

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Originally Posted by jengum

Do you have a powder coat color description or RAL number for the metallic charcoal? Where did you source the black rivets...McMaster Carr?

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I do not. The work was done by Powdertech in Duanesburg. They would know. The rivets I got on Amazon although MC has them too.


Speaking of powder coat......


I figured if I was going to PC the dash supports I mind as well do the trunk hinges too.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1733695764

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1733695764

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1733695764

Complete and test dash wiring


I removed the dash and completed the connections for the heater and wipers as well as put in wire looms for the external components. I attached the heater vents and ran the duct for the passenger and half the driver.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1733698371

I made one electrical change. I moved the parking brake off the bus bar in the cockpit and ran it from the main power bus directly off the battery.

Re attached the support and mounted the dash (hopefully for good).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1733695728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1733695728

I purchased a bigger 12v power supply and connected to the battery lugs. I disconnected the computer for the coyote, I don't need that powering up yet. I was able to calibrate the fuel gauge to the sender, test all my dash lights, hazards, directionals and high beams. I wired in my courtesy lights. I plan to put a light in the glove box and tie that to the courtesy circuit. The only problem with the power supply is I was hoping it was strong enough to test the wipers and heater fan (not big enough). Going to borrow Scott's later this week.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1733695646

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1733695646

Last thing I got done today


I was able to test parking brake light. Worked as expected.


https://youtu.be/07jJa_RdlZQ?si=NgoNJTLckth4uT52


I will hook up the head unit and test the cameras while I wait for Franks turn signal to arrive later this week and finish up the dash.

It's the little milestones that count, like the PB light! I love that. I built my last car without testing a single electrical circuit and I was a nervous wreck on 1st start. Everything worked but I was waaaaay out of my wheelhouse on that one.

I have a small 12 volt power supply but I probably need to check it's amperage to see what it can really power.

I also found some time to mock up my dash/rear cams and test as well. It's easy to slide the unit in because I measured the frame with enough room to clear the dash itself when fully upholstered. You can also see the fit and finish with the CF wrap.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1733751642

I mounted the rear and front camera roughly using of all things blue tape. Worked for what it was. I also used a separate power supply to test the backup trigger that will wire into the reverse lights.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1733751642

Worked like it should

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1733751695


Front camera works too. It's a pretty basic setup. The camera and or the head unit will accept an SD card that continuously writes to it, then over writes when full. I should be able to keep a couple days worth of driving at a time. The idea here is I have (will have) insurance. If someone makes a mistake and takes the front end of my car apart or rear ends me there isn't any shop that will fix it. I want to document the accident and just get cashed out. The backup is cam is just a bonus, the car hips are wide and backing into the garage would be easier with a camera but was not the initial reason I went this route

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1733751695

Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1733751642

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I really like the multi-functionality of the head unit. I will be doing something similar with cameras but integrated into a rearview mirror which will be overhead.

And there is nothing wrong with blue tape for the win.

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That's awesome. Scott has one of those in his coupe. I thought about it but I don't have anywhere to cleanly run the wire unless I mount it to the dash. I want my rear view up high this time.

I look forward to seeing how you do it.

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

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Originally Posted by Fman

Jesse, have you tested that screen in daylight? I cant even read my 8" Fire tablet in full daylight hours with my Pro Flo 4 EFI app. The glare from the sun is terrible. Works fine during early morning, late evening and night driving.

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Yeah, thanks Travis. I did test it out in the sun. It works pretty good, at least better than my phone. I’m going to give it a whirl as is. There are also anti glare films I can play with if need be.

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Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

Last I made the bluetooth connection with my phone. I tested it with maps to navigate to this totally random place that I have never been to to see how long it would take to get there. :)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1733751642

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Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Looks great, Jesse! Many cool features in your build. You're moving at warp speed! Are you having as much fun as your first build? I know I am. Keep up the great work.

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Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blitzboy54

Thanks Chris. Always good to hear from you. Yes sir, I’m having a blast. I think the pace of the build reflects that. I really like being in the garage.

Looking forward to seeing some of your updates.

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I can totally relate. My family bought me two tee shirts during my first build. The first one says, "My garage is my happy place". The second says, "I can't. I have plans in the garage". Not that I would ever say that. :p

I bet you'll be at First Start before long. Will be exciting!

Turn Signal Pt 1

One of the more exciting developments around here is the turn signal I ordered from Frank arrived this week. It's a real well thought out unit. Frank sent me the dimensions so I was able to mock it up on my dash ahead of time. It arrived in basically 4 pieces. The base plate that marries the hub to the dash, the hub (contains the stalk), a backing plate that secures the hub and the boss.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1734131127

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1734131127

The turn signal comes ready to wire the directionals and horn. If you want to use the side button for the high beams you have to install a relay. I hadn't planned for a relay so I had to find a home. I put it behind the dash under the dash frame so I can get to it if I ever need to replace it. I also installed the switch for the parking brake that came out pretty sharp.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1734131201

I completed the rest of the wiring and connected the heat duct.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1734131201

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1734133347

While I was working I also buttoned up a couple other items. First is I added lights to the glove box. These run off the cockpit courtesy circuit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1734131127

I also caved and installed a bias adjuster. Turns out Speedway motors makes their own. I got it for $35 and to my surprise the knob is a billet aluminum vs plastic. the whole setup is a Wilwood clone. I will connect the cable once I get the Tilton 90 degree.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1734133208


I connected the tail lights and tested as well. These are good to go.

https://youtu.be/ztyY0N83Af4?si=7Aj0cK5v2_xQNzAO

Turn Signal Pt 2

I decided to carry the theme and powder coat the boss. I was going to powder coat the mounting plate as well but it shipped already black.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1734131258

I mounted everything up per the instructions and it looks great. I am not completely sold on the FFR steering wheel. I have no plans to change it right now but will possibly go with something more modern. This will do for now though.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1734131258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1734131258

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1734131286

I also ordered Franks drop trunk and trunk cover plate. I was pleasantly surprised to find some extra swag in with my order. Really classy touch IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1734131286


Last but not least here is everything fully tested.

https://youtu.be/UGbSkX_cg9A?si=EgYyLzsa1TbqWy8s

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jengum

Looks great Jesse!

Are you planning defroster ducts for the 2nd build or is there a workaround for NYS registration and inspection?

Tilton 90deg elbow...did you change out the MC's for Tiltons? I've been reading about the recent failures.

Turn signal hub...did you substitute the horn function for high beam operation or is there a separate stalk button? Is it latching or momentary? I watched Frank's video for adding the high beam relay but is the other wiring a direct connection to the RF harness?

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Ducts on a roadster are useless if you don't have a top. I will temporarily put defroster grills on the body when I register. Then ditch them.

The elbow has nothing to do with the MC, just happed to both be made by Tilton. The 90 is the only way to get the cable to fit and function in the space available the way I want to do it.

Franks hub uses the stalk for the horn. Pull it and it becomes a momentary switch. Everything else just wires to the RF harness.

Merry Christmas to me!!!

My friend Scott stopped by last weekend to say hi and see the build in person. He has a beautiful Red and White coupe that unfortunately had a valve failure that resulted in the engine getting pulled and sent back to Mike Forte for repair. We were chatting about where I was in the build and I mentioned my power supply wasn't big enough to test the wipers and heater fan. He reminded me he had a big boy power supply and a "spare" battery I was welcome to borrow. I thought that was a fine idea and made the trip out to his place on Sunday.

While we were hanging out in the garage and looking over his door pocket project Scott showed me a few other surprises he had for me. First was the battery, power supply and circuit tester.

I connected it to my battery leads and ran the heater. The blower works well and moves a lot of air. I tested the wipers. I turned them on and off a couple times then I heard a pop. Ru Roh, I had blown the 10a wiper fuse. After some trouble shooting I found I had a short in the switch. I wired up the FFR switch and the wipers work fine so I definitely had a bad part. I ordered a better switch but I am also a little torn. I kind of like the FFR switch but to put it in the dash I would have to make the hole bigger so no take backs. I will think about it for a while

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1734399566

I re tested all my lights and switches and noticed my dimmer didn't work. I then figured out I have half LED's and regular bulbs. So to fix this I am changing the 5 small gauges to LED bulbs and putting and LED dimmer in line. I didn't drive my last car a lot at night but when I did you get a lot of glare from the dash in the windshield. I needed to turn the lights way down.

Next was this little beauty! Scott tried to install it on the coupe and couldn't make it work so he very generously gave to me. This was a gift (not a loan) and honestly a really nice thing to do. Made my day

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1734401000

I was also talking about where I was in the build and how I would like to put the engine in but I can't until I get the car on the ground. I don't have tires and won't until spring so I will just work on other stuff until then. Scott said he had an extra set of wheels for his challenger with his summer tires on them and he thinks they are the same bolt pattern. Well low and behold they are 18" and are 5x114.3 we test fit one on his coupe and BANG!! We are in business. With this little touch of Mopar magic I can put her on the ground and drop the engine and trans probably next month. LFG!!!!!! Looks kind of awesome to boot.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1734399609


Other things I was able to to do was get my headlights tested.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1734399566

and turn signals

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1734399566

On Saturday I was able to get a start on Franks drop trunk. It's a nice piece that's a little bigger than the one I had put in my last car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1734399609

This is a great example of what this community continues to be. I genuinely appreciate Scott being a part of my build. Thanks man!


"Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night"

Yeah, buddy! Great feeling getting those lights and gauges lit, eh? I just did this same thing for the first time Saturday.

Greg

It's cold

With the holidays and the weather it has not been ideal garage time. It's been chilly this week

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1735244795

But despite the head winds I still have made some progress. First was I finished the bias adjuster. Tucked everything in to the foot box. There does not seem to be any interference. I did end up putting some lithium grease on the rotating assy of this since it was metal bearing against a metal plate. Runs real smooth.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1735244696

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1735244696


Electrically I finished with the dash for the most part. I replaced the gauges that originally came with incandescent bulbs to LED and installed a dimmer in line that I purchased from Autometer. I know some folks think it's not necessary but I found it to be useful on my last car and wanted to the ability to do it on this one.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1735245181

Next I cried uncle on my wiper switch. Instead of purchasing a rotating switch from Ron Francis I decided to color the bezel black and run with the FFR toggle. I kind of like how it breaks up the dash. I can always change it out later if I change my mind.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1735245181

I started on my rear aluminum. I am going to stop at the sides for now and start prepping the engine for drop in. I think I want to be able to access the tank, pump and fuel lines until first start just in case there are any issues.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1735244842

I mounted the gas tank vent canister. I rather shamelessly stole this from Chris (cv2065). Credit where credit is due.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1735244842

I think there may be something wrong with your display on your daily driver - there's a negative sign in front of the 4!

Great progress and pretty perfect those wheels and tires are a fit. I feel a first start coming to a theater near you...

-20 Celsius! I can't even imagine that. Closest I have ever experienced anything like that was fixing an electric forklift in a blast freezer. After 30 minutes I thought I would die before the repair was done.

We had 101F on Christmas day.

Cheers,

Nige

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I think there may be something wrong with your display on your daily driver - there's a negative sign in front of the 4!

Great progress and pretty perfect those wheels and tires are a fit. I feel a first start coming to a theater near you...

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nigel Allen

-20 Celsius! I can't even imagine that. Closest I have ever experienced anything like that was fixing an electric forklift in a blast freezer. After 30 minutes I thought I would die before the repair was done.

We had 101F on Christmas day.

Cheers,

Nige

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The older I get the less tolerance I have for the dead of winter. Good chance my kids stay in the Northeast which means by default we would too. If that happens my first retirement project will be to find the cheapest tear down ina warmer climate and build me an escape hatch.

Ideally a tiny home with a 3 car garage. :)

I’m ALL over the tiny home with big garage. As long as my wife has animals running around, she should be good as well!

Drive line drama

I am prepping my drive line for assembly and install. I got my engine off the stand and transmission out of the box. I got them on a couple of rolling dollies. Nothing fancy but they are both level and at the same height.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1736019397

I purchased a RAM HTB from Mike Forte for the install and broke out the instructions. It comes with a handy work sheet for measuring your spaces. It comes with a stack of conical shims. i installed all of them and came up with gap of .327". The goal is a gap of .150". I ordered some additional shims from RAM.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1736024964

After seeing how this system works I have concerns. I don't like that my only adjustment is the addition or subtraction of shims. My preference is to engage the clutch at the top of the pedal stroke and if it engages later i have to pull the transmission. I reached out to a couple builders that had used RAM HTB and their experience did not line up with what I want in a clutch. I started a thread and it sounds like what I really wanted was a Tilton HTB. The Tilton kit for my setup is around $550 plus shipping, tax, a new MC and whatever I need for a pedal stop. With this in mind I was still inclined to use the parts I already purchased. I had removed the output collar and replaced it with the unit that comes with the HTB. The instructions have you remove one of the 4 bolts and replace it with the stud that keeps the bearing from rotating. I tightened it down with a ratchet and this happened.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1736019397

That was it for me. I am going to put the TKX back together with the original collar and install a fork and manual bearing. I ordered an external slave from MDL. It will work with my existing MC. I then moved on to the fly wheel clearance check

For those that don't know There are intermittent clearance issues between the TCCM1899 bellhousing and the Coyote fly wheel. The steal Quicktime does not have this issue. Sure enough my fly wheel teeth didn't clear in 2 spots.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1736019397

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1736019642

I removed a not insignificant amount of material

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1736019642

Part 2

After trimming with my die grinder the teeth now clear. I can rotate freely

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1736019699

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1736019699

One of the more common clutches used on the coyote/TKX is the Ford Racing M-7560-T46 . It's what Paul and many others here have used. It is actually a Centerforce clutch. The Centerforce PN for the same clutch is DF148679. The Ford unit is around $650, if you go right to Centerforce it runs $499. I then put the PN into google and found it on sale at Amazon for $366. All in all a nice savings.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1736019728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1736019728

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1736019728

At least you found the bellhousing to flywheel interference before dropping the engine and trans in. Unfortunately I didn't on a Coupe that I did a couple of years ago :mad:

Jeff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

At least you found the bellhousing to flywheel interference before dropping the engine and trans in. Unfortunately I didn't on a Coupe that I did a couple of years ago :mad:

Jeff

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Jeff,

Literally the ONLY reason I even knew to check was I found your thread and bookmarked it 6 months ago.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...bytrap-warning

This forum is a national treasure.

Alright, Alright, Alright

A couple weekends ago I was able to get the rest of the drivetrain together. I was really struggling to get the TKX to seat into the clutch. Took it apart a couple times. I inserted the drive shaft so I could rotate the spline as I assumed the teeth were not lined up. Spent what turned out to be an embarrassing amount of time on this until I discovered I had the transmission in neutral. I am rotating away and weird, nothing was happening. Lol

After I popped in gear everything fit together just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1737236432

I don't have an engine hoist, but I do have a chain fall. I put a real beafy anchor point in the middle of the bay. The only downside to this arrangement is I have to bring the car to the engine. So the door has to be open and it's still winter. Fortunately my friend Scott doesn't care. He came out and we spent the day stuffing this monster in. Definitely harder than the 302 I installed last time. Parts I needed to remove that I didn't consider before we started: Clutch reservoir, steering shaft and in my case the oil temp sender. Also the coyote has a weird kitty corner mounting arrangement. This makes the tilt all but useless. I removed a bunch of sensors and ran chains across from the lift brackets to header bolts. If you can't tilt the transmission down I don't know how you would get it in. At one point it was a half inch at a time, down then back...etc

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1737236432

This just before I removed the reservoir and steering shaft
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1737236432

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1737236744

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1737236744

We got it in and that was the end of the good news for the day. I did not realize I needed engine mount spacers. I read the coyote instructions but missed it. That was my mistake. However it turns out I didn't have them anyhow. This is what it looks like without them.


https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1737236802

Scott and I were really beating our heads against the wall until we figured out what the problem was. I propped up the engine with a cobbled together platform and a floor jack and hunkered down until these arrived

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1737236802

As you can see with the spacers the engine fits just like its supposed to. I am not clear what the alternative is to having these. I suppose you could makes some sort of plate but I don't think it would work right. I was able to get the mounts off the engine by lifting it a couple inches, install the spacers and re attach. After everything was in and level I was able to re torque.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1737236896

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1737236896

Next was getting the engine level. Even with the supplied transmission spacers it tilts backwards quite a bit. I measured a gap of .700 between the mount and the plate. I used these SS spacers to line everything up. I obviously needed longer transmission bolts as well

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1737236973

That brought the oil pan on a level plain with the 4" tube

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1737236973

All in all it looks great. Everything fits as hoped. I was a little worried about the heater but it fits exactly as I estimated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1737237082

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1737237082

It's definitely tight on the drivers side. Really only have a couple of mm. I would assume some contact when the engine torques but we will see.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1737237082

Drive shaft and slave cylinder

Once the engine and transmission were set I put everything back that I had removed. I made sure to torque down everything that I had disturbed. Then I moved on to the driveshaft. It went in without drama. I powered up the parking brake so I could torque the bolts to the required 70 lb-ft. It kind of odd looking because so much of the spline is exposed. It has to be this way because I had JUST enough play to get the shaft in. I thought at one point I may have to loosen something but it went in. I will leave the shifter here for now. I think I am going to need to be right where that cross bar is. The mid shift is too close. I am pretty certain I am going to reverse the shifter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1737237185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1737237185

I then moved on to the slave cylinder. I ordered this kit from Modern Drive Line. It is their TKO/TKX external slave setup

https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop...-4-6l-al-bell/

It fits nice the only downside to this kit is on the TKX the bracket needs to have notches cut into it to clear the webbing on the transmission. Seemed like a better move to modify the bracket vs cutting into the housing. It was 10 minutes with the die grinder.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1737237185

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1737237185

Cold weather is coming backs so I tried to maximize the last couple days.

Looks great Jessie. Definitely a lot going on in the engine compartment. I think Coyotes are standard rotation (clockwise from the front) so you should be OK unless the motor gets wider below what you show in the picture.

Nice work Jessie! Definitely standing room only in that engine bay. And I thought my header fitment was tight on the driver's side! I still think you'll finish before I do. :)

That's a lot of yoke showing out f the transmission, are you sure you have the correct length driveshaft?

Man those Coyote's are stuffed in there, I guess you install the header bolts from the bottom?. Installing one is definitely above my skill level. Hats off to you!