Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
Hey Chris,
I put the access panels in the rear panel to get at tail lights, reverse camera, and the charcoal canister I mounted back there. Hopefully I won't need to open them very much. I may have made them a bit larger than needed...
I'm thinking of covering it all with vinyl or carpet that is velcro'd in place
I'm neck deep into electrical. It's not my forte. Takes me a long time to wrap my mind around how things work, then still I inevitably cut or splice the wrong wire.
It's coming along, but sure is a mess:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1743304360
Today, I decided to take a break from electrical and do some powder coating. It was the first time doing some bigger body panels. I was using my new powder gun, a Redline EZ-50, which is supposed to be a big step up from the Eastwood one.
It did not turn out so well.
First, need to prep the panels by blasting. I used an old tent to blast in. This part really isn't any fun.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1743304378
The new powder coat gun
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1743304378
I chose panels that would be covered by vinyl or carpet to start with. I'm glad I did.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1743304378
Everything seemed fine, but the end result was not good. There were numerous small raised areas in the finish, as if the powder clumped. Very noticeable when reflecting light.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1743304378
I had prepped and cleaned the panels really well, so I didnt think that was the problem. Maybe the humidity was causing it (was rainy and unseasonably warm today).
But then I decided to switch back to the cheap Eastwood powder gun, and of course, the next panel was perfect.
I feel your pain Jim! I went through several of those trials when I was trying to paint my 3D printed nylon parts with Cerakote. Super frustrating and time consuming. Glad the Eastwood gun worked.
I powder coated a lot of items including an intake manifold on a previous build. I was not that meticulous about prep which consisted of sandblasting and then a quick wipe down with lacquer thinner. What I found was how important it was to have a good electrical connection, plenty of powder and when in doubt, crank the heat or leave it in longer or both.
You've got me a bit nervous about the Cerakote. I'm not very good at painting (and it seems powder coating) so I'll have to practice over the summerQuote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I'm sure it's user error. The new Redline powder coat gun has more variables to control than the Eastwood. I had the power cranked all the way up. Maybe that was a problem. Or too much air pressure/powder flow.
The grounding was the same. I have an 8 foot copper rod pounded into the Earth with heavy duty jumper cables connecting that to another copper rod I hang my items from.
I'll have to fiddle with it some more.
If I remember correctly, 5 - 8 psi was kind of the sweet spot on air pressure with my Eastwood. Lower was better so you weren't displacing powder. And make sure you have a drier or desiccant can in your air line.
Your ground connection sounds more than adequate. I am not familiar with your gun but it is grounded as well?
Cerakote on metal was not bad, only the plastic parts.
Everything PNWTim just said. The electrical connection is pretty important. The pressure is really key. The last part is finding the sweet spot between not having the gun too close and not too far away. Too close and it clumps. That's what I think happened to you. Too far away and it takes forever to coat or comes out thin. I recommend continuing to practice with scrap pieces. It's like doing drywall. You just eventually get a feel for it.
I use about 5 psi but that's because I have a really cheap gun that is prone to coming out in chunks. Don't be discouraged, my early stuff looked like junk. You will figure it out sooner than you might think.
Jim I am new and in research mode, so popping in and out of the forum. Here is a video on Cerakote from AC Designs Garage on YouTube that I saved for future ref.
https://youtu.be/faS_BCLcGPE?si=Qh5YH1kfP4sasI1B
no baking
Thanks guys for the powder coating feedback. Probably had the gun too close and too high of pressure.
Thanks for the linkQuote:
Originally Posted by ASL67
Cerakote has some pretty cool stuff. The C-series coatings are neat that they are air dry and some are good up to 1200 degrees F.
But since I have my big oven, I can do the V-series coatings that are more durable and rated for up to 1800 degrees, which would be optimal for exhaust pipes. It requires 500 degree bake, which my oven is capable of
Hi Jim. I have zero experience with Cerakote, but did powder coat quite a few parts, including smaller panels. In addition to the great suggestions above, I found pre-heating my parts to the bake temp improved coat coverage, making it more consistent. And, it helped fill in the nooks and crannies. (The professional powder coater I used for my larger panels confirmed they do this as well). I used the Eastwood gun, and had good results with both Eastwood and Prismatic powders. Just tossing in my $.02 FWIW.
I'm one of the sick individuals who enjoyed the electrical phase of the build. But will admit, it can be overwhelming at the beginning. The good news is it comes together bit by bit. Hang in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
Thanks for the tips Chris. I'll try the heating the panels trick. I use Prismatic Powders too. I like their selection and being able to order swatches to view in person first.
I haven't done any more powder coating since my last attempt, or much of any work on the coupe.
Went on a nice cruise in the Bahamas with the family.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1744170150
Then came home to this:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1744170150
Bonus: got to buy a new Stihl chainsaw
Now this is my current status:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1744170163
I haven't made it any easier on myself by basically tossing the FFR wiring diagram out the window with all my custom switches and add-on electronics
Jim - no pictures in your post, at least that I can see. Guessing you had a tree or some limbs down?Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Oh weird.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Are they visible now? The photos were in a "private" album. I changed it to public, so may that fixed it?
Yep, that fixed it. Oddly enough, I love doing wiring. I find it rewarding and probably spend far too much time on little details. The old adage of how do you eat an elephant definitely applies here. And do your best to be forward thinking. Cutting wires, crimping and heat shrinking only to realize the routing you chose a month ago is not going to work is a bit of a drag.
Glad you're able to do the important things with your family. Looks like an awesome trip!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Sometimes it's easier to justify adding a new tool to the arsenal than others, and I bet that tree ended the internal argument quickly! Got to take advantage of those opportunities! :p
I've been away from my build for at least a month. Really trying to savor the process this time, not to mention our "new" (1907) house needs A LOT of TLC. Before you know it, you're wiring will be finished and tucked away neatly.
I'm working on AC and heater hose layout and have a few questions:
First, I was given a different drier than is shown in the AC instructions. It doesn't have a port for the trinary switch. May be a dumb question , but where does the trinary switch go? Or was I sent the wrong drier?
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1745376168
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1745376168
2) Regarding the heater hose valve, others have said they mounted it inside the football instead of on top of it. I'd like to keep the tops of the footboxes clean.
Is this how others have routed this? I can't think of any other way. It's a tight fit.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1745376168
The hex plug that is in the side of your dryer should accommodate the trinary switch. I can't speak to the heater control valve location. I have read every build thread available for the coupe and have seen some mount this inside of the front of the foot box but me personally, I am not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
X2 on both of these responses. I briefly checked Vintage Air's website and they don't sell a receiver-dryer that doesn't have a switch port. Kind of what I expected since that's a pretty common way for aftermarket systems to be set up. So has to be that hex nut. I don't remember from when I've done mine. Two A/C installations and no issues with either. I put the heater valve on the foot box for my Coupe build. (On the truck build I did put it behind the dash but WAY more room.) Done neatly it kind of blends in with everything else under the hood and isn't a big deal IMO. Jamming it behind the dash takes up valuable real estate and would be a nightmare if you ever had to work on it. I've only had to do a couple deep dive repairs on my builds. But each time was thankful I at least gave some thought to maintenance. Agree, not worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I put mine inside as I wanted to have a cleaner area under the bonnet and believe that the lines going every which way is distracting. See my build thread covering the install here. I would recommend not using the bulkhead fittings if you are to do this as it is way too tight and just opens you up to another possible leak area. I used grommets to run through the front footbox cover. Overall I do not really see the downside here. If there is a service issue you can access everything from the top and drop the valve down out the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Your points are totally valid. I agree with the bulkhead fittings. Way too fiddly for no benefit. I added two additional outlets plus a glovebox in my build. So limited room which is why I talked about valuable real estate behind the dash. Those were more important to me than the appearance on the footbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by wedel456
But one other comment. "Drop down from the bottom." I was never good at working in footwells but at my age and lack of flexibility, even more something to avoid. :o
I have zero clue how you were able to fit everything behind your dash... I have the a few relay boxes (that you do not); however, those are smaller than your glovebox. I am not 100 percent sure I will be able to fit everything AND get it all connected. Going to find out this weekend when everything goes in with the engine install.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I am a little behind you but not too far.Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb
I plan on putting the heater valve there as well Jim. It's tight for sure. I like you, do not care for the look of it on top of the foot box either. Much cleaner look without it there.
I agree with Wedel though about not using the provided bulkhead fitting and just attaching the hoses to the valve and run them through a grommet. Less leak points.
I'm using these billet grommets from Notchead to correspond with the provided Billet A.C. passthrough. My OCD at work here.
Attachment 212947
Attachment 212948
Attachment 212949
Those things are sweet! I am always amazed at the depth of aftermarket gear that is available. I have gone down the research rabbit hole many, many times looking for just the right thingy (technical term). Half the time I find just identifying the correct search term is half the battle.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8secDuster
Before I went with the grommets, I was looking at stainless steel wire glands. I already had the holes drilled for the bulkhead adapter so it would have been a pain to make the holes larger. If not I would have gone that direction to have a tight closure along with future serviceability, if required.Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Quote:
Originally Posted by wedel456
Ahh... Gotcha. Nothing wrong with that, and it will look much cleaner (IMO) than mounted on top.
Wow, thanks for all the great responses!
PNWTim and EdwardB:
- Thanks for the guidance on the hex bolt on the drier. I took a wrench to it last night and it wouldn't budge so I didn't know if was really removable. But I'm now a bit gun-shy of over-torquing things after destroying my first $200 Pro-M hanger. I'll put my big boy pants on and get that bolt off
Wendel456:
- Good idea on not using the bulkhead fittings. That would give much more flexibility in mounting the valve.
Using the bulkhead fittings, I agree with Paul that it would be nearly impossible to service. But without them, I think I would be possible.
8secDuster:
- Those grommets are slick! They have black anodized ones that would match my theme perfectly
Thanks guys
For what its worth, i made a foot box extension on the passenger side and put it down there. This is something I will be adding to my store. Waiting to verify fit with other header/engine configurations.
Attachment 212965
Attachment 212963
Attachment 212964
Those grommets are sweet! I think I have a few uses for them. Those look like they would work well for the hoses coming from the reservoirs into the foot box.Quote:
Originally Posted by 8secDuster
A few updates, then the big question I need help with:
I figured out what was causing the bubbles in my powder coating. Ended up being moisture from the air line being spit out of the powder gun each time I'd initially hit the trigger.
I put a better filter/dryer on the air hose and now start the gun trigger when not pointing toward the piece I'm coating.
Much better!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1746154756
Only problem is the gun's power supply gave out, so I'm waiting on a new unit coming from India. Free though.
Next, I think now that I removed the bulkhead fittings for the heater hoses, the heater control valve should fit inside without much trouble. Thanks to those who suggested doing that. Waiting on the NotcHead firewall grommet rings from Summit that 8secDuster showed us (thanks!).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1746154797
Something exciting came this week!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1746154776
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1746154776
Tremec GM T-56 Model 11009
1st 2.66, 2nd 1.78, 3rd 1.30, 4th 1:1, 5th .80 and 6th .63
I wanted to buy it before the May 3rd auto parts tariffs kick in. It's made in Mexico (Thanks PNWTim)
So, there's one little item left to purchase -- that vroom vroom thing that goes in the big empty space up front. I'm about ready to pull the trigger, but I still can't make up my mind which to go with.
HERE'S WHERE I NEED YOUR OPINIONS PLEASE!!!
I'm getting a Blueprint LS3. The choice is between:
A) The 376ci (6.2L) with 530 HP, 495 TQ
B) Essentially the same engine, but the stroked version - 427ci (7.0L) with 605 HP, 565 TQ
The cost difference is $2,500
My dilemma is I REALLY REALLY want the stroker for the mean sound and the vanity of having that "427" with the huge power numbers
The problem is I'm afraid I'll kill myself. Or at least that I'll be driving scared all the time.
I've never driven anything like these cars before. We have a Mercedes C43 AMG, but that's half the power-weight ratio with AWD and traction control. I'm not in any way a professional or exceptional driver. This will be a road car with an occasional track day. I'm not an idiot or hooligan, but it would be fun to actually put my foot down on occasion without spinning into a ditch.
OPINIONS NEEDED PLEASE! Thank you
I’m somewhere in the middle of those numbers with my cammed LT, the car is incredibly mild until you get on it. It’s a 6 speed so you’re in control.
Here's the deal....your a smart man, have some common sense I assume. At those power levels when you mash the throttle you are in the danger zone with either motor. You need to get what you want! I mean $2500 at this point...c'mon!!
Higgy
l can provide a slightly different perspective. Like you, I had the same decision to make when I built my '69. I went back and forth and finally decided to stick with your option A. My Camaro weighs somewhere between 3100 and 3200 lbs - a little less than half a ton more than the coupe. In short, the torque and powerband of those engines is exhilarating. I can't tell you which engine to buy but I can tell you when an LS hits it's stride those 565 ft lbs. of torque will need careful management. As Kbl7td says, the LS is very mild right up until you put your foot in it. Just my two cents.
PS - word of the day is "Hooligan". Please use it at every opportunity.
Using street tires you won't be able to put all on the ground with either one so...
Jeff
My license plate is "7.0LTR" and R888R's do very well at keeping it under control.
I'd say go with the 6.2L and get used to it. If you still want more grunt in the future you can always supercharge the same engine to whatever level you want. With the stated 530HP at the crank, you'll probably realize between 425 to 450 at the rear tires if it really puts out that much. With some tuning and few changes you could probably increase that output as well. I'd save the $2500 and you can always throw that at it later.
Stick the biggest one you can in there ;) I'm glad I went with their GM427LS 625 hp / 550 ft. lbs. Downside is that it needs a lot of tuning initially but it will rip your face off if you let it :)
Go with Plan A... Plan B is something to look forward to in your next project a few years down the road! (A husky agreeing with a duck... darn it...)
Thanks for all the responses and opinions! Quite a mix
Summary so far:
- LS's are awesome
- Tires matter a lot
- Either engine can kill you, so don't be a wuss
- Could start with the base and upgrade later
- "Hooligan" is a great word