CV2065 MKIV Roadster Build Thread #2 - Visors - Heat Shields - Saggy Pipe

Working on some odds and ends before I get some go kart time in this week. I did get my headers back from ceramic coat and man do they look great. I had them done in black and then put a Satin finish over that and they are perfect! My local guy at Performance Kote did both for $375. Took the collectors apart, coated inside and out and even did the bolt heads. I'll be sending over my side pipes once everything is fitted for a matching set.

When installing again I remembered how much these ARP studs make this a breeze to do. I was going to use the gaskets sent from Gas n Pipes, but I also got a set of Remflex 3035 gaskets for comparison. Love my Gas n Pipes stuff, but nothing holds a candle to these Remflex gaskets. Better made and fit the 351W on the DART block perfectly. You have to hang the Gas n Pipes gaskets upside down in order to fit the ports on the head correctly, even though they are upside down to the header flange pattern, as the gasket mounting holes are not equidistant top to bottom. Odd...

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I am also trying out the Nord-Loc washer system instead of the ARP flat washers. These worked great in other places I've used them so we'll see. They are about as thick as the ARP washers. If you want to try these out, you can get them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4QMQ848...sin_title&th=1

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

As a last action, I replaced my spark plugs. I figured I'd get a fresh set as these things have been around for the dyno as well as me tinkering a few times to get my timing right, and a lot of idling in the garage. Funny thing is that the plugs Roush included with the engine are Autolite 605’s. These are tapered plugs and not with crush washers. The 605's also come pre-gapped at .060"? The heads that come with the Roush 427 are AFR 205 heads, just branded as Roush, so not sure why they would pick a tapered plug as AFR recommends the Autolite 3924 or the NGK 7373, which both have crush washers. So I used the 3924s, as I have in the past. Gapped them to .035 and installed to 15 ft.lbs as recommended by Autolite.

One word on gapping plugs. Do NOT trust the little circular gapping tool. They are not all created equal. I had two that were .05" apart in readings. I used my feeler gauge instead.

I also made a clutch stop. I purchased a 1" x 2" aluminum block locally that was .5" thick. I then tapped two 10/32" holes to secure it from the other side of the driver's side footbox with button heads and one larger 5/16" hole for the stop itself. Painted it black and I think it came out really nice. Another one of those "no one else will know its there but me" efforts. I didn't have a stop in my last build but this should give it a more firm feel during 'spirited' driving. I might add some washers and a jam nut later to give it some additional stability.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I made a radiator screen out of some black powder coated perforated hexagon grill mesh from customcargrills.com. Wow, this was perfect as this stuff is normally kind of expensive, but they have a scrap section on their website. I was able to get a 32" x 50" piece for half price of a normal sheet. Thought it might be beat up and bent but nope, perfect condition. Once cut to size (26" x 21"), and a bit off the top of both sides for a good fit, I added 1/16" edge trim (wind lace) around the perimeter for a finished look. As I did last time, I drilled the front radiator support in 3 spots for 10/32" screws and used 1/2" nylon spacers to prop it away from the radiator. The bottom will hang a bit for now as I'm using Everson's nose aluminum that will hold it down once in place once installed. Turned out great. I thought that my Breeze radiator cowl cover might have some interference but hung the screen low enough to where it all fits.

If anyone decides to do this, just keep in mind that these grills are finished with metal stripping at the top and bottom. Just be sure to cut it so that is on top as it gives it more strength when hanging.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

My Canton overflow can was still stainless and was sticking out like a sore thumb with all of the blacked out in the engine bay. So I pulled it and dropped it off to my powder coat guy. He had it back in less than a week and I reinstalled. Now it looks complete!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Forgot to mention that I also found a 16lb Meziere radiator filler cap to go with the blacked out engine theme. Never seen a two-piece cap with pin. Very cool!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Well, all I have to do now is hook up the side pipes, bolt on the steering wheel and grab some gas and I'm heading out to the street. Hopefully by Thursday at the latest if the weather holds out.

Dude. Just wow! That all looks insanely cool… I just ordered my scrap piece for my radiator. Thanks for sharing….

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?

Headers look bad ***!! Price seems pretty fair as well.
Higgy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grubester

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?

---

A little bit of both. Some have had leaks from the radiator after a rock strike through the large opening

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grubester

Why the extra radiator screen/mesh added? Is this protection for the radiator's vanes or esthetic...?

---

As Chewy states, it’s both. I had this on my last build and it makes it really easy to clean up bugs and debris that normally would get stuck in the radiator. Protects against larger rocks as well. Might as well make it look pretty if you are going to have one. Looks really good with Everson’s nose aluminum when you look up in there. Very finished appearance. .:cool:

Studs and Remflex gaskets, can't get better than this especially with the 3" spread mounting for the headers.

FWIW the only thing "lock washers" are really good for is taking your money. If you break down the physics of a bolted connection and the forces involved you can easily see why these things contribute nothing and in some cases are actually detrimental to the joint. Stick with the ARP hardware as designed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Studs and Remflex gaskets, can't get better than this especially with the 3" spread mounting for the headers.

FWIW the only thing "lock washers" are really good for is taking your money. If you break down the physics of a bolted connection and the forces involved you can easily see why these things contribute nothing and in some cases are actually detrimental to the joint. Stick with the ARP hardware as designed.

---

Interestingly enough, the ARP nuts with washers loosened up a bit just during a few first starts. I get the tightening up after heat cycles but surprised me just a bit. I’ve got the ARP washers off to the side if I want to swap back out but interested to see how these lock washers perform.

It's amazing how many things you have to nail down before you are actually able to jump into go-karting. How many threads, including mine, where the builder says they are ready to roll and they get stumped for a few days, or weeks, before it actually happens. So I said I'm ready to roll then....

• There was a clutch disengagement issue that needed to be addressed
• Then the overflow tank was too full and causing leaks at the cap
• Securing side pipes
• Cleaning up around the garage and under the car so that I didn't run over anything.
• Pulling the car off of the jack stands
• Tying off your fuel filler tube so it doesn't drag the ground
• Double checking all fluids
• Wrapping up any loose wiring around the car. Like my exposed horn wire that shorted and beeped on my go kart ride right as I was passing a few people. Although I did get a thumbs up!
• Getting the wife to commit to coming out and doing a video without complaining

So once All of that was done, now we were able to make it happen. Here's my wife's video where she clearly didn't clean her lens and I'll be doing another one here shortly. Notice that 30-degree sloped driveway. Always fun....

https://youtube.com/shorts/Oeiip_jjgK4?feature=share

A couple more:
https://youtu.be/ICYq8OKlhMc
https://youtube.com/shorts/5oqonvp420Q?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/y73fSJ8uB2I

Post first drive and we are leak free! Couple of things:

First off, the ball jointed headers are amazing compared to what I had a few years ago. I don't think there will be any need for shims with these. I wanted to secure the pipes so that they don't bounce around and stress the headers, as I may take a few drives until the body goes on. I made this up from ACE Hardware. Inspiration came from Jeff Kleiner in a post I saw from a couple of years ago. Thanks Jeff!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

In the same thread, Jeff recommended the brass couplers instead of the mechanical nuts to secure the pipes on to the headers. Glad I found this as the last time I used the mechanical nuts the first time around and they freeze up with the heat and are a bear to get off. Thanks again Jeff. You can find them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IZ49HC...fed_asin_title

I purchased 2" 3/8-16 socket screws for the header to pipe bolts. I was giving some slack for possible shims, but doesn't look like those will be necessary so I'll get some 1.75" instead.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Ceramic coat on the pipes looks fantastic after the first true heat cycle. Last build I was pulling the headers off right about now as the coating was a crinkled mess from poor application.

I think I'm also going to trade up my clutch MC for the next size up 7/8" bore size versus the 13/16" I currently have. After the go kart, I don't have a huge issue with the actuation, but the clutch pedal just sits too high and based on where the cyclinder is in the slave (right at the edge) I can't adjust it any more backwards. My MC threaded rod has moved back into the clevis a little further than I would like. I 'think' the next size up would get me close back to level with my brake pedal and give me more threading in the clevis. Currently don't really need the clutch stop I installed but maybe I will now.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Well, this opens the door to the next phase of building. Plans are to get my turn signal installed, assemble the rest of the metal including the drop trunk, sound proof that and then start adding carpet. I'll get the undercoating on the body, install the side vents and start fitting the front chin spoiler. Again, thanks to Jessie for pointing that piece out as it's going to look awesome!

I've had Mike Everson's nose aluminum purchased and powder coated for a while sitting in a box waiting to come out! Well, it's time. Look at this beauty. Goes so nicely with the radiator screen color and design. I'll be pulling this off before I install the body but like to get it fitted beforehand. Looks WAY better than the multiple pieces that come in the kit and highly functional as a giant air scoop. It's all in the details!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I have it as well. I didn't install it before putting the body on, and Mike's instructions say you can put it in through the nose. I tried and failed, so I'll leave that to Kleiner. :)

You can put it in through the nose. Just be careful on a painted car.

They usually need to have some trimming done to fit once the body is on.

Jeff

I really like the single piece solution, it is a great finishing touch. Your all black look is awesome. I did not attempt to fit mine prior to body install, but I did find that I had to do a fair amount of trimming to get it to fit correctly with the body installed. I did install it through the nose and it was not easy - most of my scrapes and cuts have healed. I suspect once you have done a few, it becomes much easier.

James

I did receive my new Tilton 7/8" MC and was going to swap it out with the 13/16" MC to get my clutch pedal down a bit as well as the threaded rod more engaged in the clevis, BUT, I fiddled around with it again and was able to get the correct adjustments. So I saved myself $100. The hole that I cut in the tunnel for my speaker gave me direct visual access and it was very easy to get the best pedal position based on the movement of the slave piston. I also ended up taking out my pedal stop for a little more clearance. I think I'll move the brake pedal up a bit to match the clutch. I'm considering dog earing the brake pedal pad on the bottom right side so that my heel doesn't catch while hitting the accelerator. Hitting both at the same time is not too cool when cruising. :cool:

I'll be putting another 12" x 15" diamond plate floor to the driver's side footbox like I had in my last build which enables your heels to glide back and forth when using the pedals. Right now they are catching a little on the KillMat, so driving isn't as smooth.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I want to get the rest of the metal and insulation done so that I can start making some progress on the rear carpeting and then the stereo/speaker system. The body undercoating, side grills and spoiler will be next in line and then I'll test my lighting system. Making progress!

I've had a couple more Go-kart sessions and am now satisfied that I don't have any leaks, so I buttoned up the rear metal. I had to drop the fuel tank in order to get the drop trunk installed. Not a big deal, just put a 12" 2x6 on the jack, centered it on the tank and slowly lowered it after I had unbolted it from the straps. I did have about 4 gallons in the tank but wasn't an issue. I did have to unhook my fuel lines as I didn't have enough slack to drop the tank far enough, but they reassembled with no issues. With AN fittings, I've started to use Seco 7 conical seals for added 'no leak' assurance. If there are any imperfections on the flare, these cure that issue without having to buy a new fitting. Some use them anyway, and I'm a fan of that club. You can get them for any size and I've bought from Pegasus Racing here:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3202

I ran out of rivets halfway through and found out that Summit has discontinued the larger headed (3/8") Ultimate black rivets for some reason, so needed to source elsewhere. Bought some from McMaster Carr. Their grip range was different but worked great. I used these:

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/3795/97526A320

The pin separated from the rivet into the gun much easier than the Summit version. The smaller size down not so good, even though they seemed to match up perfectly with the grip range needed. Metal all buttoned up:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I did cut a larger panel for the fuel fitting side. With the small oval window that comes in the trunk panel, there really is no way to get a wrench on those fittings if you needed to from the topside. I used 10-32 rivnuts for the panel covers. I also created panels for the upper deck sides that FFR does not provide. Makes it look more finished and seals the entire area up much better. Credit to Paul on that one going back to his 20th anniversary build.

Cutting and installing the Killmatt takes some time. I also used some HVAC tape to clean it up some and seal some of the panel adjoining areas. If the trunk is not somewhat airtight it sucks all kinds of dirt and sand in while driving, so tried to make that a priority on the exterior with seam sealer and the interior with the insulation and HVAC tape. I also cut a couple of smaller aluminum fill ins around the crossbars of the drop trunk to get the tightest fitment.

All insulated up:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Really happy how it's all turning out. Only thing left in the engine compartment is to get the chrome Roush logos on the air cleaner and valve covers powder coated to red to match my gauges and hook up the power to my sound system as soon as it's installed. I also need to create a shorter ignition coil wire.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Really coming along brother!!!
Higgy

That looks amazing!

That look so effin mean!!!


I love it

Those headers look amazing. I’m curious to see how they stand up after a lot of heat cycles.

Love the clutch stop design. I may steal that for my build.

Nice work, looking forward to seeing more progress!

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gbranham

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

---

I was wondering about the same. The 'before' picture of the trunk looked amazing in the glossy black aluminum...almost show quality. And then you covered it all up! Seems like a lot of wasted effort and money to me, but whatever makes you happy!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JMD

I was wondering about the same. The 'before' picture of the trunk looked amazing in the glossy black aluminum...almost show quality. And then you covered it all up! Seems like a lot of wasted effort and money to me, but whatever makes you happy!

---

The powder coated panels are more for protection of the metal on the outside versus the inside and for easy cleaning underneath. Getting a panel PC'd on one side is the same price as both due to the extra prep, so just did the entire panel. AND...the under car pictures are glorious. :cool:

Black rivets are what I used on the entire car, seen and unseen, so didn't want to buy two different kinds. And then there is the OCD thingy.....:p:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cv2065

And then there is the OCD thingy.....:p:

---

I feel you, my friend, and I suspected that's what you'd say. I have the same problem/disease/superpower. "Anything worth doing is worth doing right".

Greg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gbranham

Looks awesome! I'm genuinely curious about something...why the black rivets in the trunk, only to be covered by Killmat and carpet?

Greg

---

Let me tell you about my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished BOTH SIDES OF EVERY SINGLE PANEL on his roadster and then installed interior and trunk carpeting :rolleyes: Actually my other buddy and I both think that being out in his shop polishing was a better alternative than being in the house with his (now ex) wife!

Jeff

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Let me tell you about my buddy Bart who mirror finish polished BOTH SIDES OF EVERY SINGLE PANEL on his roadster and then installed interior and trunk carpeting :rolleyes: Actually my other buddy and I both think that being out in his shop polishing was a better alternative than being in the house with his (now ex) wife!

Jeff

---

LOL. I think me and Bart might have a lot in common. :D

Trunk carpeting is almost done. It was nice that the kit came with some of this, at least the basics. I had to order a little more from FFR to complete the sides and inside of the drop trunk. I will say that the FFR carpet is pretty nice stuff compared to what you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes. It's 20oz weight, plush, doesn't fray and vacuums nicely. It's a little more expensive but worth it IMO.

To stick it down I used the 3M 90 spray adhesive purchased from Lowes. I couldn't recall how messy this aerosol was, so I contemplated buying the gallon size of carpet adhesive brush on, but glad that I didn't. The 3M nozzle is very precise. You could literally spray a 1" bead of product if desired. Comes out in a web like spray and works great. Once I laid it down heavy, and then a light coat on the back of the carpet, I had just enough working time, so it tacked up and laid down nicely. Finished it off with a small roller that I had used for the sound proofing.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I got around to installing the i.e.427 turn signal assembly. Frank designed a really nice unit and is there to answer any questions about installation or wiring, so highly recommended.

First off, I had done some go-karting and had to remove the hub and loosen the pillow block screws. I had the hub on very lightly, so secure but still able to remove by hand with a little wiggling. I also installed my bellville washers into the steering shaft. Made it very tight, but I was still able to move it up and down with a little force. I didn't want to have to contend with these once the turn signal assembly and hub were installed. A light film of grease also helped.

Very straight forward installation. Once the turn signal hub and dash adaptor fit together and placed against the dash, as Frank suggests, I used a 6" 1/8" drill bit to make all 3 pilot holes. I didn't want to drill an actual hole for the wiring harness, so I just enlarged the steering column hole at the 7 o'clock position and the harness fit through easily and has about 1/4" clearance to the column.

I then removed the turn signal assembly and enlarged the holes to 1/4". The only thing I would mention is that if you have the CF dash and you enlarged the steering column hole like I did to pass the harness through, just have it far enough up to where it doesn't interfere with that 3rd mounting hole.

The black turn signal stalk matches the theme of the car so I'll be keeping it. I'll be using the horn function on the stalk as well. Hazards were sent to a separate button.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Leveled the handle horizontally and once satisfied, snugged the nuts down. Here's a peek behind the dash at the backing plate.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Wired it up tonight per Frank's instructions, aligning with the RF harness. Before I reinstall the hub and space it out 1/16", I'll test the lighting and then we should be good to go. Hopefully this is the last time that the dash will move and I'll go ahead and button up the under dash panel as well.

Finishing up the lighting electrical, and pretty much the rest of it as well, and I did have an oversight that 'kind of' turned out to be a blessing in disguise? On my last build, I had the 4 tail lamps that didn't require the Trailer Light Converter, so now that I have the square tail lights, I totally forgot to install this. Perceptively an easy task UNLESS you've buttoned up the dash and installed your trunk metal like me. :rolleyes:

So...what do to. If I went the trunk route (ideal situation), I'd have to drop the gas tank again as I can't pull the harness through unless I unscrew the 3 harness cushion clamps that I have on both sides to where I can pull it down and do the surgery. Not a big deal but I just signed off on a leak free system and would have to uncouple my fuel lines, and it would still be somewhat of a challenge pushing it all back through once connected.

Second option would be to pull the dash. Again, not difficult but I just got my turn signal situated and I'd have to struggle with the steering column a bit to push it up so that the dash could flip down, and that particular harness is kind of buried with little working room and would be a hassle there as well. Of course, the idea is to not screw up anything that is currently working while trying to get this hooked up. ;)

Third option is to do it in the tunnel, which after some thought, I think is the best option anyway. Many have mentioned that if the trailer module goes out, whether it sits on the gas tank or in the dash, it will be a challenge to access, remove and replace. In this case, if I need to get to it, just remove the tunnel cover and its right there. I have quite a bit going on in there with my harness and speaker looms, so if I install it at the upper top of the tunnel side with 3M dual lock and wire loom, it should be shielded from the elements, etc.

So, how does this thing wire up? I found these schematics on past threads and added some labels as my printer is only shooting out B&W copies for the moment. One thing to note on the first schematic it says the purple wires are not needed but those wires will need to hook up from the harness to the converter via the red brake wire, but not on the output as it's a 5 to 4 converter. The purple wires and tan wires need to be doubled up when connecting from the harness to the converter. The black, yellow and white harness wires are singles.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

During the testing phase, I used WAGO connectors. Man these things are so easy to use, secure and they don't distort the wire, but I will be using Permaseal butt connectors for a water tight seal once testing is over. Once hooked up, here's what it looked like. Looks messy now but will clean up once butt connected and reinstall the wire loom. Then attach it all back to the tapped clamps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Happy to say that all of my lights worked the first time around. Tested the headlights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards and interior lights. Hazard button works like a champ. Again, used the WAGOs to hook up the front and back. I will need to make an adjustment on the brake light button at the pedal. It needs to come back a turn or two in order to actuate the brake light earlier.

I did have one casualty and that was clipping the wrong tan wire in the harness. You can see it in the pic. There are 3 tan wires in the harness. One is for the fuel pump and the other two are for the lighting. You'd think they would have chosen another color to differentiate. I thought that I had the correct two, but upon closer inspection, the fuel pump wire is one step higher in gauge than the taillight wires. Nothing a permseal butt connector can't fix but unnecessary work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Once I clean up this last bit of electrical, it's time to rivet in the back wall, complete the amplifier routing, speakers and carpet.

Thought the red would be easier on the eyes but getting the U-Boat vibes....:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cv2065

Finishing up the lighting electrical, and pretty much the rest of it as well, and I did have an oversight that 'kind of' turned out to be a blessing in disguise? On my last build, I had the 4 tail lamps that didn't require the Trailer Light Converter, so now that I have the square tail lights, I totally forgot to install this. Perceptively an easy task UNLESS you've buttoned up the dash and installed your trunk metal like me. :rolleyes:

So...what do to. If I went the trunk route (ideal situation), I'd have to drop the gas tank again as I can't pull the harness through unless I unscrew the 3 harness cushion clamps that I have on both sides to where I can pull it down and do the surgery. Not a big deal but I just signed off on a leak free system and would have to uncouple my fuel lines, and it would still be somewhat of a challenge pushing it all back through once connected.

Second option would be to pull the dash. Again, not difficult but I just got my turn signal situated and I'd have to struggle with the steering column a bit to push it up so that the dash could flip down, and that particular harness is kind of buried with little working room and would be a hassle there as well. Of course, the idea is to not screw up anything that is currently working while trying to get this hooked up. ;)

Third option is to do it in the tunnel, which after some thought, I think is the best option anyway. Many have mentioned that if the trailer module goes out, whether it sits on the gas tank or in the dash, it will be a challenge to access, remove and replace. In this case, if I need to get to it, just remove the tunnel cover and its right there. I have quite a bit going on in there with my harness and speaker looms, so if I install it at the upper top of the tunnel side with 3M dual lock and wire loom, it should be shielded from the elements, etc.

So, how does this thing wire up? I found these schematics on past threads and added some labels as my printer is only shooting out B&W copies for the moment. One thing to note on the first schematic it says the purple wires are not needed but those wires will need to hook up from the harness to the converter via the red brake wire, but not on the output as it's a 5 to 4 converter. The purple wires and tan wires need to be doubled up when connecting from the harness to the converter. The black, yellow and white harness wires are singles.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

During the testing phase, I used WAGO connectors. Man these things are so easy to use, secure and they don't distort the wire, but I will be using Permaseal butt connectors for a water tight seal once testing is over. Once hooked up, here's what it looked like. Looks messy now but will clean up once butt connected and reinstall the wire loom. Then attach it all back to the tapped clamps.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Happy to say that all of my lights worked the first time around. Tested the headlights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards and interior lights. Hazard button works like a champ. Again, used the WAGOs to hook up the front and back. I will need to make an adjustment on the brake light button at the pedal. It needs to come back a turn or two in order to actuate the brake light earlier.

I did have one casualty and that was clipping the wrong tan wire in the harness. You can see it in the pic. There are 3 tan wires in the harness. One is for the fuel pump and the other two are for the lighting. You'd think they would have chosen another color to differentiate. I thought that I had the correct two, but upon closer inspection, the fuel pump wire is one step higher in gauge than the taillight wires. Nothing a permseal butt connector can't fix but unnecessary work.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Once I clean up this last bit of electrical, it's time to rivet in the back wall, complete the amplifier routing, speakers and carpet.

---

I literally have the exact same configuration for testing. Once I know everything works I will button it up with real connectors.

It’s a good tool for temp testing…

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cv2065

Thought the red would be easier on the eyes but getting the U-Boat vibes....:p

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

---

“Danger, Will Robinson, danger!!” ��

As everyone says, 'it's been a while since I posted'..:p, but lots going on. I was focusing on getting the rest of my metal installed, it's just been so incredibly hot here. I keep saying I'm going to get some AC going on in the garage, even had the unit picked out, but never got around to it. Too busy on the car to bother with that...:cool:

Got the back wall metal in and cut out my holes for the Wet Sounds 6.5" speakers. I didn't want them obvious (as much as that is possible), so swapped out the silver speaker grills for black. 'Show Quality' black metal panels, WITH black rivets that I'm only going to cover up with insulation!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Then came the rest of the insulation. The last time I used the Thermo Tec, which came in a large roll and this time I used the KilMat, which comes in smaller pieces. I found that I did the entire car in roughly 2.25 boxes which seemed a lot less waste than with the Thermo Tec. Product seems to be about the same quality.

The Breeze floor brackets for the seats were riveted directly to the floor and I cut the insulation around it. Metal to metal is the best and safest way to go!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

And of course, a Jeff Kleiner recommendation to spray paint the seams all the way around black so that you don't see it in the event that you cut or lay the carpet a little short.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

Looking good! I enjoyed this part of my build quite a bit more than I thought I would.

I looked into upgrading the FFR carpet but it really is hard to beat it. The pile is nice and thick, looks great when vacuumed and the price is right. I haven't had to open the manual in quite some time, but I couldn't remember how all of the carpet pieces laid out so opened it up. As with the trunk carpet I used the 3M 90 and proceeded in the following order:

• Back Wall
• Tunnel sides where I cut to size as I'll have the tunnel cover in matching diamond stitch upholstery as the seats
• Moved to the front console panel and footbox sides
• Floor carpet came last

And didn't forget to drill for my seat belt holes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I'd say that the front console and the passenger side footboxes are the most challenging, especially when you have some console adds like USB ports and cutoff switches. Getting the holes aligned perfectly with the 8-32 rivnuts can be challenging. I installed all of the face plates, then used finishing nails to mark where the screws would go through the carpet. Then I removed the face plates over the nails, pulled the carpet with nails intact and marked with a silver marker. Harbor freight has a hole cutting set for $7.99. Worked great.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I did get too much of my face inside the passenger side footbox when laying down the 3M 90 aerosol glue, as you don't have a lot of working time, got a few good whiffs and felt like I was going to suffocate. That stuff is POTENT and lingers around so take precautions!

Carpet is done except for the cockpit door sides as I'm getting those bound at the top for a more finished look when getting in the car. I'm doing the same with some of the trunk carpet pieces so will be a week or so before they are in.

I finished up the speaker system with the Wet Sounds Revo 6 (6.5" Speakers) for the rear cockpit and the Polk Audio DB522 5.25" speakers for the tunnel. They both are of course waterproof and can withstand higher temps that one might find in the tunnel. The Wet Sounds have a great reputation for mids and highs, which is really all you can reasonably expect to hear at speed unless you invest quite a bit in subs and amps. Pancake subs suck as they fire up and, in the Roadster, if you are going to have one, needs to fire to the rear, and there is not much room for that unless you do a custom box. Amplifier is an NVX VAD10004 v2. Here's what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZWFNKA..._asin_title_11
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBWN3WW..._asin_title_12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NGRPL97...d_asin_title_1

I've shown the 6.5" speakers installed in previous photos but here are the 5.25" speakers in the tunnel. Looks pretty good and somewhat stealthy....

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

I did not intend to buy an NRG quick release initially, but I have a Momo Black Edition (Prototipo) steering wheel that I really like and was having a hard time implementing a horn button to finish it off as the horn mounting clip designed for the wheel does not really fit with the steering hub. I'm using the i.e.427 turn signal and horn on the stalk, so I don't need the button to function, just to finish off the wheel.

So I was going through some previous forum posts and found the NRG SRK400 that everyone was using and thought that might give me enough play in the front of the wheel to fit the horn button, and I was right.

As in other posts, the quick release needs to be modified. Both NRG adaptors to the wheel and to steering hub need to be cut down and modified to fit. The metal is soft and I used a hack saw on one side and a grinder on the other. One thing I learned is that when you take apart the NRG quick release, there is a little spring that gives tension to the retaining button and it will fly out. Don't let that fly out or you'll be like me looking for hours on the floor to locate it. :rolleyes: When putting it back together I did it inside of a zip lock bag in case I fat fingered it again and it wanted to fly around. Easy to do just need the patience and don't rush.

It came out really nice and I'm very happy that I went that route. A removable steering wheel is cool too. I got mine in red for a little more splash of color to match my gauges.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds

https://hosting.photobucket.com/239a...720&fit=bounds