Hopefully the Weize is better than an Optima...but if not at least it was only half price :D
Jeff
Hopefully the Weize is better than an Optima...but if not at least it was only half price :D
Jeff
Haha, my thoughts exactly. And if I ever get it down to you for paint, I'll be sure to bring the chargerQuote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Been a while since my last update. I finished the stainless brake and fuel lines several weeks ago. Used 37 degree flares for AN fittings throughout.
Never could figure out double flare with the Eastwood tool for the SS brake lines, so switched to AN which makes it a breeze.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1732253175
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1732253197
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1732253197
Made PTFE stainless flex fuel lines to the fuel tank. Screwed up and broke my first Pro-M hanger, so this is my second one. Note to others: DON'T OVERTIGHTEN or the AN fitting welds will break.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1732253197
Made a vent line for the differential
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1732253175
Looks great. I like the little diff vent - can you please share where you got it?
Nice work!
I found making hard lines fun, so I decided to make hard lines to/from the power steering rack, power steering fluid cooler, and reservoir. The connections to the pump on the motor will be flex line.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1732409816
Using a Keyser brand power steering fluid reservoir, which I swear is the same as the Moroso and other brands, bust $80 less expensive.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1733614509
I powder coated it anyway.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1733614509
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1732253218
Also made hard lines to the fuel regulator
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1732253157
But recently I took a little detour from working on the car itself. I really wanted to powder coat my own panels, and do it at my own pace. I also want to Cerakote my side pipes. So I decided to build a bigger powder coat oven.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1733614509
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1733614509
It will have 2 oven elements with 7000W total power. I'm going to wire it so I can add an element if the two elements are insufficient. Will have an air recirculating fan and it will be on casters so I can wheel it to/from my outside garage.
Will show more details as I get it finished.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I actually went through several iterations that I weren't happy with before finding the following simple solution:
Stainless 1/4" barbed to 1/4" NPT coupler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVYC1XG...fed_asin_title
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1733616409
And a little stainless exhaust muffler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MZ3L58G...sin_title&th=1
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1733616409
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1714190328
Pretty clever combo, thanks for the info.
Congrats on your SS hard lines, Jim! They look great.
Being able to PC your larger panels will be really handy. Looking forward to seeing your oven up and running.
Do you happen to have the info on the boat latch and strut for your trunk box? I like your setup and considering something similar.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
Thanks Chris
Here's the latch I used
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1733625574
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
And the strut
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1733717707
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CY2...b_b_asin_image
Less than $20 combined
I finished my powder coat oven, which ended up being a pretty fun side-project. And, shockingly, it all worked the first time I plugged it in.
I based the design on this DIY tutorial: https://www.powdercoatguide.com/2014...ting-oven.html
But I simplified a few things, because I'm not looking to make a business out of this or anything. I just wanted to have the ability to powder coat my own panels and Cerakote the exhaust at my own pace. It'll probably end up being a wash cost-wise for the Coupe, but I'll come out ahead if I do subsequent projects.
My oven ended up being 4' x 3' x 6.5' outside dimensions. The interior oven is about 3.5' x 2.5' x 6', so about 90 cubic ft. Big enough to fit the largest aluminum panels and the side pipes.
Materials List:
Structure:
3-5/8" galvanized steel framing studs (20 gauge, 10 ft) x 14-15
Galvanized steel stud track, 10 ft, x 10
9 sheets of 4x7' aluminum sheeting
16 gauge steel sheet for floor
1/8" and 3/16" steel rivets x 800+ (probably overdid it)
Door:
24 inch stainless piano hinges x 2
Door clamps x 2
Single gate caster wheel with spring
Insulation/sealing:
R-19 unfaced fiberglass insulation x 3 rolls
Aluminum high temp sealing tape
High temp RTV silicone
Tadpole gasket for door
Oven bake element x 3 (3500W apiece)
High temperature spade connectors for bake elements
Centrifugal blower fan for a wood furnace - 196 CFU
Controller box / electrical:
PID temperature controller
40A solid state relays x 2
10AWG THHN wire x 50 feet
11AWG high temp wire
Large electrical junction box
PID temperature controller
40A solid state relays x 2
Volt/amp meter
240v rotary switches x 2
Fan motor rheostat
DIN rail components
Cylindrical fuse holder x 2, with 0.5A and 5A cylindrical fuses (for PID controller and fan)
40A circuit beaker (for oven elements)
120v Extension cord - 20 ft
50A, 240v appliance power cord - 10 ft
1/2 and 3/4" EMT conduit, fittings, and 2x junction boxes
Miscellaneous:
Set of 4 casters with brakes
Got pretty much everything from Amazon, except the framing supplies and sheet metal.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1735019809
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1735019809
I had never used steel framing studs and tracks before, but they're very easy to use
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1735019809
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1735019809
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1735019809
Wool insulation is recommended, but would have been an extra $100 or more, so I went with fiberglass. Is good enough.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1735019827
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1735019827
This last pictures show the recirculating vent and where the fan will go. The vent helps redistribute the hot air at the top back to the bottom, because otherwise the top of the oven can be 50-75 degrees different and not good for the coating
The major driver of cost for these ovens is the price of steel sheet to skin the thing. At least 20 gauge steel is recommended, but that was just way too expensive for me. I estimated $850+ for steel sheet alone. So I went a much cheaper route (and will have to deal with some inefficiency). I live near Elkhart, Indiana where there are numerous RV manufacturers. People sell slightly imperfect aluminum panels from the RV industry on Marketplace for cheap. I got all my aluminum sheet for the project for $100. It's 0.032 inch (20 gauge). Not nearly as good at heat retention, but it gets the job done along with R19 insulation, aluminum sealing tape and high temp RTV sealant.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1735019827
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1735019846
I originally planned for 2 heating elements, but decided to build in another. Easier to do it now than later.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1735024041
The wiring organization didn't turn out very pretty. I'll have to do better on the Coupe.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1735019846
It worked first try!
My nifty amp/volt meter showed a problem though - the oven was drawing 43A, which is more than my garage's 240V circuit is wired for (wired for 40A).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1735019846
So I actually had to deactivate the 3rd heating element. Now drawing about 28A
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1735019863
I'm working out calibration of the PID controller. And I learned quickly I need to run it through some heat cycles OUTSIDE because it was off-gassing some nasty fumes (probably from the backsides of the aluminum sheet, which have some sort of gray paint).
Using an infrared thermometer, there is definitely some hot spots on the back (where the heating elements are closest to the skin) and near my recirculating fan. It gets up to at least 450 degrees inside (the highest I've tried so far).
Most powder coating has temp range of 375-425 F. The high temp Cerakote for exhaust needs 500 F though.
That turned out sweet! Keep us posted on how it works.
Happy Holidays!
Higgy
That turned out really nice! That will be super handy to have on site.
Nice work, Jim! Very cool project. Thanks for posting.
Man, I love DIY stuff like this! Merry Christmas to you! I will enjoy watching how well it works and seeing the professional results.
Thanks guys!
I got it up to 550F, so it gets plenty hot.
The aluminum panels inside expand in the heat (another reason not to use aluminum), causing some warping , but it still keeps temp.
Well, progress really seemed to slow down for a while: The powder coat oven side project, the Holidays, nasty Flu bug, then vacation.
But I've been chipping away. Mostly working on getting the dash and controls mocked up. Custom stuff sure does take forever.
For the dash, I went with custom Speedhut gauges. GPS speedo, the typical gauges, but I also added a few extra gauges like oil temp, fuel pressure, manifold vacuum. I had an Air:Fuel gauge, but I realized I bought the wrong one (accidently bought the one that only works with AiM units, which I don't have) so that's on hold.
Controls are all push buttons from Billet Automotive Buttons out of Australia, who make real nice stuff. What's cool is they're 16 amp switches so I won't have to use relays for most of them.
The only kit supplied controls that I'll be using are the twist-knob controls for the AC (fan and temp control). I also have a twist-knob control for windshield wiper speed from the Specialty Power Windows kit. But, I got different knobs so they all match.
First, a few pics of how it all turned out, then some of the details. This is still sort of a rough draft at this point:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1739506716
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1739506716
Putting the button switches directly on the trans cover panel ended up being a real PITA. First of all, there is a diagonal frame member under it, so you can't put buttons in the middle. Then the backside of the buttons and wires are exposed, so I had to make enclosures that would fit between the frame rails with extensions so the wires can make their ways up behind the dash. I modified the heck out of that panel.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1739506698
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1739506698
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1739506698
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1739506698
Looks so ridiculous underneath. But whatever, no one will see it. I'll have some work getting everything water tight.
With all the issues getting a Russ Thompson turn signal unit, I looked elsewhere and decided to try out the Microflex Labs turn signal. It self-cancels by using gyroscopes and accelerometers to sense when the car turns. https://microflexlabs.com
It seems like a nice quality unit and looks nice. Customer service has been great too.
Did need to make a 2" shaft for the turn signal to attach to. Made out of stainless tube. Although first, I shifted the steering column to the left 1 inch to suit my seat location.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1739506698
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1739506716
MicroFlex Labs sent me out the black 3D printed bushing that fits into the end of the 2" tube and fits perfectly with the FFR steering hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1739506716
I'll be diving into wiring soon, so we'll see how this signal unit works, but they promise it simplifies wiring.
Looks good Jim. Nothing wrong with a little Frankenaluminum if it works. I have looked at the Microflex as well since I think the RT unit is dead at this point (really a shame in my opinion). I may be mistaken but I thought during the FF Mark V reveal they spoke of producing a turn signal unit. I am curious if you happened to have reached out to them re: one of their units? Regardless, the Microflex is a really streamlined and good looking unit. I have also contemplated the Ididit shorty steering unit which incorporates everything but it requires quite a bit of fabrication and is expensive to boot. Carry on!
Looking good Jim, you are making some serious headway. For what it's worth, I made some panels that mount under the transmission tunnel, below the switch area, to seal off from water and add some more room to stuff wires and ducts.
Attachment 210484Attachment 210483
Very nice.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
I am thinking of doing the same, It's good to know it will hold 550F with only 2 elements.
I would want mine on casters to make it mobile, although that would probably require a more substantial floor frame.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
Thanks Tim
I didn't know FFR was making a turn signal unit. Frankly, it's about time they did that. Seems like a no-brainer option to offer.
I'm pretty excited about the Microflex, but it is a bit of a risk since there's not a volume of experience out there with it. There's no moving parts, so I'm hoping it will have longevity.
Aww dang it!!! That's way better than what I did. Much sleeker and easier to waterproof.Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
I'm probably going to add some panels now
I put casters on mine. For the bottom of the oven, I used a 16 gauge steel plate, so it's more sturdy than the thin aluminum walls. But overall the structure is very rigid when all riveted together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiley
https://www.amazon.com/WEIBIDA-Caste...t_ba_s_5_cp_sc
Good to know, thanks Jim.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Very cool progress Jim. Love the powder coat oven!!! I want to cercoke my side pipes too. Open to a 2fer? I'm not that far from ya!
The dash is coming out great. I too was going to do the white background so thanks for sharing cause it looks great! I'll use the speedhut gauges tho.
I'll DM you my personal info-
Quote:
Originally Posted by nuhale
I would be happy to ruin, I mean Cerakote your side pipes! All seriousness, if mine turn out okay I'd be happy to have you over and we can knock it out in a few hours
I'll be doing mine in "Cobra Black", which is the darkest black of the 1800 F capable Cerakote coatings
FYI: I recently contacted F5 and Dan G. said the turn signal is only available with the MK5 kit, but they are considering adapting it to others (i.e. Coupe). I'm a ways out, but going to keep a close eye on this option.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
If you have never sprayed Cerakote, do lots of practice pieces. It took me a while to get the hang of it. Measurement for the mix ratios are also really important, as they can really effect the finish.
Brent
I have not done any Cerkote before, so thanks for the heads up Brent. I'll make sure to do a bunch of practice pieces. I'd be pretty upset to ruin my pipesQuote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Making some progress.
Entered the realm of wiring, which I've been dreading. Mostly because I'm very inexperienced and the thought of it all overwhelmed me. But I've been taking it wire-by-wire and circuit-by-circuit, which has helped.
I actually started with the rear harness, because it's fairly simple.
I ended up unwrapping and rewrapping the whole thing, which I think I'll probably be doing for all the harnesses. I added wires for backup lights and my rear view camera. I also changed the fuel pump wire to an 8 AWG wire. Probably overkill, but easy to do now and I'd like my 350 LPH Walbro pump to get the full voltage.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1742168060
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1742168060
I made a charcoal canister out of the kit-provided coolant overflow tank, which I won't be using for that purpose. I put it in the rear. QUESTION: does anyone know if it's going to contact the body? I haven't had the body on for months and I didn't take pictures/measurements
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1742168045
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1742168045
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1742168974
Mounted my AutoVox V5 Pro rear view mirror camera to the roll bar. It displays fulltime rear view video - there is no actual mirror function. I ran the wire through the roll bar tube. It displays in 1080p, so it's a pretty good picture.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1742168060
My son helping with running battery cables
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1742168045
Mounted the horns up in front of the battery. It seemed like the natural place
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1742168070
Started a bit behind the dash
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1742168045
I also ended up getting a Flex-a-Lite fan to replace the kit one. Just have heard too many stories of the kit fan failing. And it is quite loud. I'll swap it out when I take apart the front end to powder coat panels.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1742168045
Speaking of powder coating. A bigger oven needed a companion powder coat booth
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1742168060
Shouldn't conflict with the body in that location.
Jeff
Thank goodness!! Appreciate it JeffQuote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Jim,
How did you attach the mirror?
Brent
Total respect for your effort. Sounds exciting for all involved. Please let us know if you need help with your wiring Doc.
www.infinitybox.com
Regards, and good luck!
Anthony
Quote:
Originally Posted by burchfieldb
Hi Brent, I used this tube flag mount: https://www.amazon.com/BRCOVAN-Alumi..._rpt_ba_s_1_sc
Works perfectly and is very solid. I didn't need to modify the mirror at all, just took off the little windshield mounting thingy from the mirror and used the included screw with a washer (can sort of see below - 2nd picture)
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1742226367
My only concern is it does stick up a bit over the roll bar about 7/8". Will there be enough room or will it contact the body?
Edit: I looked at old pics with the body on - there's tons of room
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1742226367
Thanks for the photos. I was planning on using that mirror and that mount looks like it a great solution.
Thanks, Jim! I also have the Auto Vox camera. This looks like a solid mounting solution. Also, nice work on the powder coat booth!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimStone
P.S. Sorry if I missed it, but what are the holes in your hatch rear wall aluminum? Are they access panels?