You ain't kidding... choosing those wheels was an agonizing decision.. I drove my friends and family crazy with it. My plan for color is a Black Cherry pearl metallicQuote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
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You ain't kidding... choosing those wheels was an agonizing decision.. I drove my friends and family crazy with it. My plan for color is a Black Cherry pearl metallicQuote:
Originally Posted by 33fromSD
Dyno disappointment... Stopped by the engine shop and they were just finishing the dyno tune on the engine, final numbers 401hp / 437tq .. should make for a fun little cruiser but honestly, I wanted more.
Really? I have no idea what I have but I always assumed ~300.. which is still a lot of fun :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
My 600hp/581tq 68 Camaro doesnt even feel like 600hp to me anymore.. but my passengers say it does, so what do I know.... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer
I'm sure 400hp in these little gokarts should be plenty
401HP is pretty good, I have 436 HP in my 08 Vette, and 485 in my 15 Challenger Scat Pack and both are much heavier then the 33 but are wicked fast, I'm not sure I'd want that muscle in the 33. My little 302 in the 33 is 235 HP (I think), and with the 33 only being 2400 lbs. it pretty fast / squirely. I think you'll find 401HP in the 33 will be more than you think it is.
Keep in mind, these little 33s have next to nothing for weight in the rear.
Jim
My LS3 is 430 up and I'm not going to get crazy unless it's in a straight line. Power to weight ratio is high on these puppies!
Got the kids out of detention yesterday so now to get them reattached and back in the chassis. Both were new rebuilt E-bay purchases by the previous owner and came with the car. Both needed rebuilt. Trans guy found a bad bearing, bad bushing, bad pump housing. Had him install a TCI constant pressure valve body while he was in there and I got a Boss Hog 3200-3500 converter for it. Engine had bad valve guides and bad valves, sloppy main caps and a lot of crud in the oil galleries. Almost $4500 later, it's all done and done right this time.
Attachment 186945
I like your trans stand... I have the same one!
400 ponies should be fun! I'm aiming for 300-325 on my 302.
I hope that big cap distributor will fit at the firewall. It's pretty tight back there.
It cleared before I removed the engine for the rebuildQuote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Attachment 186947
I always try to test fit things before getting in too deep, just like i'm sure a lot of you do. I previously mentioned "When cranking it sounds like the starter and flywheel and torque converter don't like each other." Well, it seems the flex plate and converter bolts don't exactly line up just right and he must have forced the bolts to go in creating a somewhat slight off center flex plate/torque converter alignment and it seems the flex plate is a little warped. I was really hoping to have all this back together and in the chassis this weekend but looks like i'll be waiting on a new flex plate.
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Good catch. Always trust your gut!
FYI. When you go to tighten up your torque converter bolts, usually two holes are slightly slotted and one is not. Start with the unslotted one and turn them in by hand but don't tighten. Get all of them started before tightening them. I've seen this before by guys that don't know about the slots and tighten one of the slotted hole bolts before getting all the bolts started first so the unslotted hole doesn't line up quite right. You have to turn the flywheel around twice.
Say what??? I'll go check that out and see if that's my issue. I had no idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
I received the ATI flex plate and had the same issue. Called the Torque converter company and their answer was to drill the flex plate holes slightly larger... called ATI and their answer was drill the flex plate holes a little larger.. Sooooooooo, 1/32" was all it took. Drilled each hole equally on a drill press in 1/64th increments keeping everything in alignment. The holes were exactly 29/64" and ended up 31/64"
Mine were not slotted, each hole was exactly 29/64"Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
Must be a OEM thing. Well at least the problem is solved!
Found some ambition last night and it's back in.
Attachment 187240
A little more every day
Attachment 187326
Love the big block style valve covers!
Oh noooo... Those are just temporary so I don't scratch up the good ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
I've been struggling with the trans cooler size and placement. 3rd one was the right one. Derale 13401 for the win.
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I like it,did you drill the holes in your upper arms or did they come like that,thank you
That's the way they came as far as I knowQuote:
Originally Posted by Ltfracing
Always a good feeling to hit the key and ... vroooom..
https://youtu.be/azourTbqSeo
That link doesn't work. They are usually highlighted in blue for working links.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/azourTbqSeo
Works for me
Nice!
Awesome
Congrats! Sounds awesome!
Not much progress, Doing one little thing at a time, chipping away at it. Today I securely bolted in the fuel tank, redid the fuel line, again. This time I ran it through the panel using a -6an bulkhead fitting then wired in the fuel sender and used one of the weatherpack connectors.
Attachment 189418Attachment 189419
This sucks.. Seems I have a leak at the coolant passages, yes, both sides. I guess i'm looking at pulling the intake and silicone around the coolant passages
Attachment 189420
Do any of those intake manifold bolts require sealant on them?
I don't knowQuote:
Originally Posted by JimLev
Your vent line won't work there. The body sits down just over the tube with a 1 1/2" foam seal there and your canister may interfere with the trunk hinge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Just 1 More
As far as the intake bolts go, put liquid Teflon on the intake bolts. Just run it around the bottom 1/4" or so of the threads. It will coat everything as you run them in. Make sure there is no oil in the holes or on the bolts. Use grey sealant around the coolant passages on the heads and intake. Clean all surfaces with brake clean on a lint free rag. Smear the sealant around the port with your finger so you have just a light coating, standard practice in the repair business.
I ordered a new intake, Edelbrock Air Gap 7501-CP "Chrome Plasma Coated" and a set of Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets MS 90314-2, I'll match the gaskets to the heads and the intake to make sure they're a good fit and then the sealant on the head and intake at the water ports. I'll also do the sealant on the bolts like you mentioned. Won't know why it's leaking until I take it apart but, could very well be the wrong gasket or no sealant used at the ports.. stay tunedQuote:
Originally Posted by Mastertech5
If the block was decked then the intake needs to be machined on the china rail half as much or it will leak there
I don't think the block was decked or the heads shaved but I will be looking at all possibilities when I disassemble and replaceQuote:
Originally Posted by Ltfracing
I pulled the intake last night, gaskets were sealed good to the intake but didn't seem to be so good to the heads. A good sharp scraper made quick work of removing anything off the head side. One thing I noticed are these scratches in the head where someone must have forced a screwdriver between the head and intake. It would make sense that the coolant was weeping up out of those microgrooves. I'll dress them up a little, apply a coat of silicone and try again with new gaskets and the new intake.
Attachment 189629
Used some 1500 grit wet/dry and brakekleen and polished the grooved areas very lightly, it's all cleaned up and ready for the new stuff.
Attachment 189634