A shock for everybody! Did each of the four Garcias check the rebound adjustment on their shock before assembly?
Jeff
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A shock for everybody! Did each of the four Garcias check the rebound adjustment on their shock before assembly?
Jeff
We did not... I was under the impression (which judging by your comment, I may have been misguided), that the rebound was already adjusted for their application in FFR cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Should I pull the front shocks and check that?
They should be set on full soft for all four but there's no guarantee. I've pulled them out of the boxes and found them set otherwise from Koni so it's best to check.
Jeff
Thanks for the heads up Jeff, I'll add that to our list!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
Here's some more progress on the front suspension, which all went more as less as expected with only a few notes.
1) The upper castle nut needs a washer to properly align with the hole. Otherwise the cotter pin would sit above the castle nut and not through it.
2) The ball joints and upper control arms are technically identical, but when we tried to thread the ball joints in they wouldn't seat all the way. Just for grins we swapped them and then they easily threaded in place. So while there really isn't a left and a right, we had a left and a right...
3) Much like everyone else, we swapped out the stock blue booties, for some Energy Suspension booties. My daughter was disappointed by this, she thought we were getting Uggs or something fun.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...1&d=1776707091
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1776707091
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...5&d=1776707091
Check the bolts holding your steering rack in. Not real clear in the pics but the bolts should be installed so that the nuts are in front. If the bolts are installed from the front you may not be able to remove them after your radiator panel is installed.
Scott
Thanks Scott, good advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
I originally had them installed with the nuts towards the back but then we had to pull the steering rack out and made the correction at that point. We noticed we didn't have the right bushing sleeves for the rear diff, and in a forehead slap moment realized that we installed the sleeves for the rear diff in the steering rack. They're close enough that nothing seemed out of place at the time.
Now if we have to replace the rack for any reason we won't be cursing our past selves. I do appreciate the tips which is a big reason for posting progress, so keep it coming!
Jon
I assume you must be referring to the front Lower Control Arm. Thanks for your keen eye. It was not too long ago I made the same mistake, but plenty of time to correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Namrups
Ed Z
Ed,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ejzajac
The radiator cowl aluminum on the Coupe is only about three inches from the steering rack bolts. Scott is correct that with the aluminum in place, you won't be able to get them out, trapping the rack in place. He caught this on a picture I posted in another thread and today I flipped those bolts around.
Before:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...3&d=1752700159
After:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...8&d=1776816775
But dang it! Now I need to take a look at the LCA bolts, too.
Dave
Fun progress is being made. Suspension buildup is a lot of fun. Nice work, Jon and family.
Since we're looking at your steering rack from the front...if I had to do it over, I would hold off on the final install of the radiator tunnel. Especially the rear panels. Mock-up and drill, of course, but no need to finalize until after the drivetrain is installed. It would have been so handy to be able to slip my hands through there. It's possible to work around it, but not as much fun.
That seems like really good advice, we probably would have riveted that in place and then regretted it later. Now I think we'll hold off on that. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by 460.465USMC
Dave, looking at your picture I also see the sway bar installed. Would now be a good time to install that or is there any reason to hold off until later?Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa
Thanks,
Jon
I can't think of any reason to wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG
A little more progress, we assembled the front rotors and started adding safety wires. I will probably have to finish that later on my own since my son had zero interest in helping. He liked the spinning twisting part, but feeding the wire through the head of the bolts was too fiddly for him.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...6&d=1776707199
We also pressed the studs out of the rear hubs using the bench vise with a notched piece of pipe method. Thanks to whoever came up with that idea!! It worked great.
We still need to grind flats into the new studs before installing, and we'll probably get around to that this weekend.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...4&d=1776707091
I know I have seen some builders grinding those flats you refer to but I did not need to that on my build. I'm not sure what the difference is be my studs cleared the hub of the hub easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG
Thanks Tim, that's good to know. I'll look at it a little more closely tonight. Maybe you just saved us a step!Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWTim
I installed the first one before remembering that others have gone with the flat grind. With only a couple millimeters of space, I opted to go flat. With a bench grinder, you can do all ten in less than 10 minutes or so.
After looking at this more closely I'm in agreement that the clearance is really tight and we'd feel better grinding flats into the studs. You're right, it won't take very long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sea Hut